> I decided to get back to working on my control head (which currently
> spins freely). I have a non-adjustable steering column. A couple
> of questions: (1) once the control head is removed, does the stator
> tube stick out or is it flush with the steering wheel nut? If it
> sticks out, by how much?
ISTR mine protrudes a bit, maybe 1/4". This is with the later split column, but
the early column should be similar. I keep the stator tube basically bottomed
in the spigot on the control head, for maximum strength.
> (2) at the bottom of the steering box, how far out should the stator tube
extend?
Mine only extends a little bit, perhaps 1/2" or 3/4". It doesn't have to
protrude at all, but has to fit all the way through the gland.
> I am testing two suspicions:
> either the stator tube somehow "slipped" down and extends too far
> from the bottom of the steering box (mine currently extends about 2
> 1/2" from the base of the nut)
That sounds way too far to me, so I think you're on the right track.
> If the stator tube is broken, can I still get replacement tubes? Where?
Last I heard, Realey Healey was selling them. Their web site seems to be down
at the moment, but I think they're still at 973-402-7773.
Don't know of anyone selling the anti-rattle springs, though. Maybe your old
ones will be usable, but if not, you can probably just leave them out.
> How difficult are they to replace?
Not too bad. You'll need to completely remove the control head and it's
harness, and drain the oil from the steering box. Might need a new gland but I
was able to reuse mine. I find it easiest to fish the control head harness
through the stator tube first until the wires just barely protrude from the end,
and then push the tube into the column. Then finish pulling the wires through
the tube and so on.
Randall
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