You should get lots of good suggestions from the list, and one of
them might work.
If nothing works, though, don't feel like the Lone Ranger.
My favorite machine shop can't get some of them off with their 100
ton press. Another machine shop in the area will try but they have
built an iron box to put around the operation, to prevent flying
shrapnel from hurting anybody. I've managed to get a few off, and
failed miserably on a few. I have a friend who takes them to work
with him, puts them in a big press of unknown tonnage right before
lunch time, puts the tonnage on it, and sometime during lunch the
things often separate. He puts a big box under the whole thing to
catch the parts when they separate like a cannon shot.
Those little molecules have become awfully friendly over the last 40 years.
There is a fix for this situation but it is costly for a street car.
The Southwick axle conversion is what the racers use. It replaces the
separate hub/axle with a one-piece forging, eliminating any chance of
breakage, eliminating setting axle end play, and eliminating rear
seal problems forever. The cost is $700 doing the conversion to your
rear end, fob the shop in Colona Illinois. See pictures on
www.tonydrews.com under jack's parts. Email me if interested and I
will put you in touch with the shop that does it. No financial
interest on my part.
uncle jack
At 02:16 PM 10/27/2005, Mark Macy wrote:
>Listers:
> ISTR that awhile back someone had a "trick" for removing the hubs
> from the tapered solid axle shafts
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|