On Wed, 15 Mar 2006, John Mitchell wrote:
> The bolts are only 3" and the originals are 3.25".
Ah - that's a problem. Most of your "off the shelf" hardware store bolts
come in increments of .5", so you have 3 and 3.5" as your choice. If you
want to get the exact right bolt, AN is the way to go, they come in 1/8"
length increments, so you probably need something like an AN6-32A. Note
that the grip range of AN bolts is less than the store bought variety, but
the shims are about 1/8" thick so adding a shim or two to get your toe
correct will probably be okay, but going to more than two shims may move
you up one size. Therefore, you may need AN6-31A, AN6-32A or AN6-33A for
this bolt.
Your other choice would be to get 3.5" (GRADE 5) bolts, but the inner
trailing arm bracket bolts may need finesse to install and clear the
frame. You can remedy the clearance problem by cutting the bolt down with
a grinder, but that's a fairly time-consuming task.
> Im not using a
> washer under the bolt head and the nyloc part of the nut is not on far
> enough to engage.
You MUST use a washer on both the bolt head and nut in this application.
Get a longer bolt.
> As to the number of shims, Dick Taylor brought up an
> interesting point, that the shims are needed to get the correct
> wheelbase. Im going to have to do some measuring. John
Def measure. My race car MUST have the 88" wheelbase (I can move the
pickup points but I cannot change the wheelbase) and I do not use 4 shims
anywhere to get my alignment toe set.
Keep in mind that TR6's were built by people, not computer controlled
machines, so there are variances in the dimensions - they aren't big, but
they can be there.
regards,
rml
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