> Took the 60 TR3 out for it's first spin tonightand a fill-up. All was
> well until I noticed the fuel gauge reading empty.
> Then I noticed:
> No brake lights
> No turn signals
> No WW wiper
>
> Horn OK
> Headlights OK
> Starts OK
>
> Where to start?
> I checked the fuses and both are OK.
Steve, it seems way too suggestive to me that the only common part of all those
circuits is the fuse block. Set your test meter to DC volts, 20v range, and
connect the appropriate lead to a good ground. (Positive lead for a positive
ground vehicle, negative lead if your TR3A has been converted to negative
ground.) Frequently, you can just jam the test lead into the battery clamp or
the braided ground strap. Or Radio Shack sells a package of what I call "clip
leads" ... short lengths of insulated wire with alligator clips on each end.
These are real handy things to have in your tool box (I carry a couple of them
in the car all the time).
Touch the other lead to the hot battery terminal to check that the ground
connection is good (meter should read close to 12v).
Now with the ignition and wiper switch on, check for approx 12v on both sides of
the fuse that has the 5th fuse block terminal next to it. If you find 12v on
one side but not the other, then either the fuse is bad, or it is not making
good contact with the fuse block. If you do find 12v on both ends of the fuse,
check on that 5th terminal. If no juice here, the little jumper that connects
it to the 4th terminal may be broken or missing. Or perhaps the screw is not
making good contact against it. If the wiper suddenly starts working, you know
there is a bad connection near where you are touching.
If the fuse looks OK but the meter shows it is not conducting, remove the fuse
and look for a silver blob showing inside the glass. If you find one, it's a
good indication that the fuse was not making good contact with the clips in the
fuse block. A new fuse may soon fail just like the old one did, if you don't
clean up the clips. (BTDT)
Randall
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