On Saturday 30 September 2006 02:31 pm, Adrian Jones wrote:
> OK folks,
>
> At the request of a couple of list members, I didn't try the breaker
> bar/starter button method of loosening the dog bolt. As suggested, a dozen
> or so whacks with a big sledge hammer on the breaker bar done the trick.
>
Good news!
> The cover is now off and I'm left looking at the timing chain itself.
> Woo-hoo!
>
> List members who predicted the tensioner would be broke win the prize - it
> was in two pieces.
>
> Here's what is holding up progress:
> The Woodruff key is quite happy where it is in the crankshaft and does not
> want to move. Can I just leave it in place or will it interfer with the
> installation of the new oil seal. Moss apparently sells new keys but are
> they OK?
Should not be a problem. It is better that the key is in place, makes getting
the thing back together easier.
>
> Also, I'm having difficulty understanding Haynes when it comes to assessing
> if the chain is too worn: "putting a straight edge across the sprockets
> and if the maximum gap between the straight edge and the chain exceeds 0.4
> inch when the chain is pulled away from the straight edge the chain must be
> renewed".
>
> If I push the chain (on the tight side of the sprocket - right hand side)
> inwards, the gap is approx 7/16 to 1/2". Is this what they are on about?.
>
> A new chain only costs $10 but I'm somewhat reluctant to pull off the cogs
> to install the chain- I know I will get the timing totally screwed up.
A new chain is easy to install. Just make sure you can see the punch mark and
the scroll and note their positions, how they line up. Take a digital photo
for reference.
>
> Any advice much appreciated as usual! Adrian TS 58324
Bob
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