> Is there anything I should look out for?
If memory serves, some of the replacements need an adapter to the original
lines (which should have been supplied with it, if needed). Otherwise, it's
straightforward.
> I have noticed that some TR3's have a bolt with nuts to act as a stop for
> the pedal in front of the cylinder bracket. I think it is so that the rod
> doesn't pull on the washer and ring at the front of the cylinder. Does
> that have any benefit?
Apparently the factory decided it wasn't necessary, as the pedal stops were
deleted on later cars. Not sure offhand when the change was made, but
TS39781LO (made in 58) didn't have them either, while TS13571L (56) does.
> It seems that the fork can be adjusted to compensate
> for that.
I don't think you want to try to adjust the fork until the pedal hits the
box. So either let the cylinder take the force of the pedal banging up, or
add the pedal stop to the box.
If you do add the pedal stop, be sure that it doesn't hold the MC pushrod
depressed at all. That can lead to weird symptoms where the brakes drag only
when hot. This problem might have been why the factory chose to delete
them.
It's just the last little bit of MC piston travel that opens the 'foot'
valve to allow expanding fluid to return to the reservoir.
Randall
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