David,
Last winter I got together with Rick Patton and we came up with a TA Repair
kit that consists of a jig that gives perfect alignment for tapping and
drilling the hubs to take either Keen-serts or Heli-coils. After I repaired
my car I also did a very unscientific strip test using some aluminum alloy
plate which is probably stronger than the cast TA's.
Here's how the first three tests went using Grade 5 bolts:
* The 3/8-24 bolt stripped the aluminum threads at 55 lbs
* The 5/16-24 bolt stripped the aluminum threads at 45 lbs
* The 5/16-24 bolt in the KeenSerts "X" tapped hole had the bolt head
snap off at 60 lbs. The KeenSert threads were undamaged
You can see the whole thing here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm
The repair kit works great and is very easy to use.
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:12 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Trailing arm stud repair
Has anyone done destructive testing on a steel stud in aluminum trailing
arm? I am curious if the torque necessary to pull a steel stud out of a
'known to be good' application has been determined.
This bit of engineering has to go into the "What Were They Thinking?" Hall
of Fame. Why this was not designed to accommodate a through bolt is beyond
me.
David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
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