To: | "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> |
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Subject: | Re: [TR] Temp. guages - further question |
From: | greg@gelhar.com |
Date: | Tue, 24 Feb 2015 15:19:23 -0500 |
Cc: | Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> |
Delivered-to: | mharc@autox.team.net |
Delivered-to: | triumphs@autox.team.net |
Importance: | Normal |
References: | <glt86sdiaamwlch8tkae1lpa.1424751451183@email.android.com> <CANzE1bG0iiF+QZaeoG4Mo6LxaT79NKdkQA-1cCbY5Q=okouT6w@mail.gmail.com> |
User-agent: | SquirrelMail/1.4.19 |
I used those instructions when I did that repair. I would suggest testing the old gauge with air pressure to confirm proper operation. 100 PSI should show full hot while watching for smooth operation of the needle. The capillary tube is very small. To keep solder from wicking into it, after it has been cleaned, I draw a line around the cut ends of the tubing with a number 2 pencil. The solder does not flow past where the pencil line is. Greg G. Osseo, MN > A technique for effecting a repair using the cap tube & bulb from a new > aftermarket gauge is described here: > > http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge > > I have never done this but wouldn't hesitate to try if the need ever arose > (not a lot to lose and much to gain). > > Geo > ** triumphs@autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive |
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