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221. RE: [TR] Motor rebuild? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 14:53:06 -0800
That's it. Depends on the pump. If it's a diaphragm type, it may suffer from the same issue as the original diaphragm. Otherwise, I'd say it's a matter of personal preference. There can be problems
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00614.html (9,416 bytes)

222. RE: [TR] TR3 id help needed (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 13:16:47 -0800
Hard to say, Paul. I searched TRF's data base, and the only "baffle plate" I could find was for an MG. Assuming you are talking about Moss 802-650, there are actually two different seals that attach
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00667.html (8,807 bytes)

223. RE: [TR] BJ Auction (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 13:37:45 -0800
Speaking of Barrett-Jackson ... Collector-car writer ejected from show by Bob Golfen The Arizona Republic Jan. 19, 2007 12:00 AM Veteran collector-car writer and publisher Keith Martin was stripped o
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00670.html (10,793 bytes)

224. RE: [TR] Reputable Chrome Plater? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 16:43:33 -0800
Well, as long as we're at it, has anyone done their own ? Either with one of the Caswell kits http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/triple.htm or with the old, toxic (and probably illegal) methods. Ran
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00675.html (8,100 bytes)

225. RE: [TR] Nu-Chrome Replater (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2007 18:04:33 -0800
Not likely to help, since the parts must be separated to get a decent plating job. The photo idea sounds much better to me ... if worst comes to worst, the foreman can send someone into the plant sa
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00681.html (7,945 bytes)

226. RE: [TR] Pulling an engine (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 22:21:33 -0800
The book says to remove the bolts & nuts that hold the mounts to the frame. Bit more difficult to remove, IMO, but much easier to line up when installing. Randall == This list supported in part by T
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00701.html (7,039 bytes)

227. RE: [TR] UNCLOGGING Weld-Thru Aerosol? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 13:09:36 -0800
IMO it's a generic problem with heavy-bodied rattle cans. I have it a lot with Rustoleum ... partially used cans almost always clog up the next time they are used; sometimes even new cans have troub
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00723.html (8,557 bytes)

228. RE: [TR] Car shows and trailer queeens (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 13:15:42 -0800
That's wonderful, Blake. Keep up the good work !! Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00724.html (7,276 bytes)

229. RE: [TR] Aerosol cans (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 19:16:32 -0800
I dislike throwing intact aerosol cans in the trash, just because they sometimes spray when crushed. So, once I'm ready to pitch them (usually but not always when they are empty), I smack the side o
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00735.html (7,035 bytes)

230. RE: [TR] TR3/4 Tranny What did this UPDATE (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 19:20:42 -0800
I must be missing something ... how do you know the DPO didn't fish out the remains of the starter drive (as I did) and put in a different starter (as I did) and sell it that way (as I didn't) ? Ran
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00737.html (7,024 bytes)

231. RE: [TR] TR3/4 Tranny What did this UPDATE (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 08:01:49 -0800
But at this point, the "problem" is just that you've noticed you have a custom, ventilated bellhousing, correct ? I'm suggesting that whoever fixed the starter either didn't notice the additional ve
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00751.html (8,158 bytes)

232. RE: [TR] TR3/4 Tranny What did this UPDATE (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 08:05:51 -0800
Certainly, but I don't think it could cause the kind of damage we're talking about. The damage was behind the flywheel, so the rocks would have had to be small enough to get between the flywheel tee
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00753.html (8,109 bytes)

233. RE: [TR] TR3 Bumper Brackets (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 08:07:41 -0800
Mine worked just fine with the brackets at an angle to the bar. == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00754.html (7,206 bytes)

234. RE: [TR] Sway Bar (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 15:07:45 -0800
Depends entirely on how you drive the car, IMO. Drive it moderately, like a restored classic, and you'll never miss the (anti) sway bar. But if you want to drive it anything like a sports car ... On
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00774.html (9,149 bytes)

235. RE: [TR] Temperature Gauge identification (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 15:33:34 -0800
Not certain, as I don't have one handy to check, but that appears to be an early TR4 temp gauge, which would make it electrical. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/MossUK/SearchResults.aspx?Search=bt2300
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00776.html (7,929 bytes)

236. [TR] Smiths voltmeter lessons learned (long, condensed version) (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 16:04:42 -0800
Testing has revealed that the voltmeter in my 'new' 71 Stag reads almost a full volt high, while the spare voltmeter from eBay reads over a full volt low. Probably the voltmeter in my other Stag read
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00779.html (9,816 bytes)

237. RE: [TR] Sway bars (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 09:16:31 -0800
Which is strange, because normally, adding roll stiffness in the rear decreases understeer (increases oversteer). The main argument I've heard against rear bars is that they increase the tendency to
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00793.html (7,723 bytes)

238. RE: [TR] TR3A upper control arms (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 09:52:10 -0800
That's correct. That's not correct. I don't follow you here, Dave. The Moss catalog/website seems clear to me that the two different arms are not "just flipped upside down". Rather the right front a
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00795.html (8,955 bytes)

239. RE: [TR] Help! Tappet noise (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 11:30:36 -0800
I'd check out the valve springs in that area. Rig some sort of prybar so you can depress each valve in turn ... if one is noticeably easier than the others then it has a dead or broken spring. Not t
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00800.html (8,466 bytes)

240. RE: [TR] Help! Tappet noise (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 14:33:47 -0800
Sorry, my only other idea is to go looking for that missing screw. Maybe it's laying inside a lifter, where it makes a noise when the lifter rises, or something. TeriAnn has already mentioned a bad
/html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00804.html (8,321 bytes)

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