Mail Archive Search: <+from:ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>

Results:

References: [ +from:ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU: 973 ]

Total 973 documents matching your query.

1. Re: Windsheild to vent seals 77B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:30:13 -0500 (EST); Andy, if you loosen up the vent widow you can try pulling it back a little, if this works then put some washers(as shims)under which ever bolt helps. ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-04/msg00011.html (8,261 bytes)
2. Re: oil/temp guage (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:34:59 -0500 (EST); Where is a good place to get the water gauge on an MGA repaired? I see tha MOSS sells a new oil/water for $145 anyone know anything about the new one? ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-04/msg00013.html (8,348 bytes)
3. Re: Darn sump plug (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:43:35 -0500 (EST); Maybe a dumb question but are you turning it in the right direction? If you are using a ratchet then there is no question but if not you wouldn't be the first one to spend a day tightening a nut. Off; /html/mgs/2000-04/msg00016.html (7,954 bytes)
4. Re: Praying to Lord Lucas 77B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 16:17:31 -0400 (EDT); The fuel pump shares a common ground. If you disconect things in the same path it won't work. If you think it is the ground then slide under the car and attach an alligator clip and wire to the pump; /html/mgs/2000-04/msg00486.html (8,547 bytes)
5. Re: MGA pick up (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 16:39:15 -0400 (EDT); About 13'10" long bumper to bumper and 5' wide, the tire width is a little less than 5'. ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-04/msg00487.html (7,210 bytes)
6. Re: engine rebuild book (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 13:42:06 -0500 (EST); Kevin if you have all the books listed then you are all set. Just be sure you order all the parts you need at once, keep everything clean, and lube everything before you assemble it.If you are unsure; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg00396.html (7,711 bytes)
7. Re: Newbie-Trans Flange (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 13:46:37 -0500 (EST); You need to be able to hold it from spinning, Haynes has a picture of how to do it. Basically put a piece of strap steel on to one or two of the drive shaft bolts and let the other end press against; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg00397.html (7,233 bytes)
8. Re: Moss Motoring & Oil pressure relief valve (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 19:41:30 -0500 (EST); John Twist recommends putting the nut on without the spring to determine where the nut starts to thread. Then mark the block and nut put the spring in and tighten it down. The reason is that the spri; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg00414.html (8,221 bytes)
9. Re: LBC question!!! finally (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:12:17 -0500 (EST); If the lower holes aren't threaded then you will either have to use bolts or tap it. I would use bolts. To get to all the nuts use an extension and a deep socket, don't forget to put the new gasket i; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg01251.html (8,092 bytes)
10. Re: Rear Brake Lines (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:20:06 -0500 (EST); If you can't find a spot that makes lines cheaply then make them yourself. If you have a PEP Boys or Parts America or Auto Zone near you they lend the flaring tool for free. All you will need is a tu; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg01254.html (8,244 bytes)
11. RE: replacing wiring harness (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 08:50:41 -0500 (EST); What ever you do don't disconnect the old wires first. The suggestion below is good or clip the wires but leave a small amount behind so that you can identify where the colors go. Don't be surprised; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg01375.html (8,128 bytes)
12. Re: motor mounts-eng hoist (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:17:19 -0500 (EST); Larry you don't have to remove the steering rack although the manual says you do. Mount the passenger side to the engine and the drivers side to the frame then lower the engine in. Sounds simple but; /html/mgs/2000-03/msg01702.html (8,878 bytes)
13. Re: engine mounts (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 19:16:09 -0500 (EST); /html/mgs/2000-02/msg00848.html (7,257 bytes)
14. Re: Rear axle nut size ???? (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:43:32 -0500 (EST); I can't say what the splined hub has but the regular hub is 1 5/16 for anyone that cares. ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg00681.html (7,344 bytes)
15. Re: Ring Job (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:13:37 -0500 (EST); If all you are doing are replacing the same size rings then I would say it's about a 4, maybe even a 3. The tough part (time consuming) is getting the pan off. The head will also need to come off but; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg00695.html (7,282 bytes)
16. Re: Ring Job (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:23:35 -0500 (EST); Yep I've done it at least 5 times over the years, the first time when I was in high school and didn't know that rings came in different sizes. I guess by dumb luck I just went with the standard ones; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg00730.html (9,124 bytes)
17. Re: Lucas coil question (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 16:33:49 -0500 (EST); The sw stands for switch and the cb for contact breaker(your distributor) so if you have a positive ground car then the + side would go to the distributor. ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg00736.html (6,901 bytes)
18. Re: clutch! (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:09:11 -0500 (EST); Syke there really isn't much more to say about the job then what is in Haynes book. One thing that may help is to put a piece of plastic such as a baggie under the cap of the master cylinder, this wi; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg01429.html (8,232 bytes)
19. Re: rear main seal (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:14:17 -0500 (EST); No you don't have to remove the crank to do the rear seal and if you decide to do the big end bearings it can be done by laying the engine on it's side, or if the engine is at a comfortable heigth th; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg01430.html (7,315 bytes)
20. Re: clutch! (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>; Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:24:36 -0500 (EST); When you disconect the slave cylinder the fluid runs out just as it would if you disconnected a brake cylinder. ...Art; /html/mgs/2000-01/msg01432.html (9,367 bytes)

Current List: 1 - 20
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]