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References: [ +from:plz@shaw.ca: 106 ]

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1. RE: Differential gear lube (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 16:21:01 -0700; Mitch, try these part numbers at your local NAPA store. They are for GL4 in different sizes and weights. Watch for word wrap in the link below. SL24239 SL24238 SL24229 SL24228 http://www.napaonline.c; /html/6pack/2006-02/msg00157.html (7,737 bytes)
2. RE: Steering Wheel, part 2 (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 19:20:35 -0700; I would recommend leaving the big nut on (loosened of course) while you pull on the steering wheel. Sometimes what can happen is you pull hard and it releases and bam! you get the wheel in the face.; /html/6pack/2006-01/msg00305.html (7,310 bytes)
3. RE: Differential capacities (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 19:24:51 -0700; Hi Mitch, I'd be really interested in your experience as I am planning on doing the same thing to my diff this winter. I have a late car so it has the collapsible spacer I think. My objective is to r; /html/6pack/2006-01/msg00306.html (7,556 bytes)
4. RE: gear box shift rod o-rings (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 22:58:00 -0700; Here are some notes I made when I did the top cover overhaul a few years ago. Perhaps others might benefit. I originally sent this info to Nelson Riddell when he was still keeping his web site but I; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00254.html (8,080 bytes)
5. RE: oil pres on new motor (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 17:59:12 -0600; If it was me I'd make up a tool to mate with the distributor drive dog (ie. the thing that remains when the dist is removed) in order to spin the oil pump independent of the crank (and pistons, cams; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00164.html (7,370 bytes)
6. RE: oil pres on new motor (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 22:11:30 -0600; I've done this once on someone else's car and I don't recall 100% but I think it did take longer than when cranking the starter. I suspect the reason is that the drill method is not spinning anywher; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00173.html (7,982 bytes)
7. RE: Da missing brake fluid (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 18:17:12 -0600; Not sure how long ago this experience occurred but when I needed a new brake MC Apple not only supplied one with a stepped sleeve (that's why the price was for 2 bores vs. the simpler single bore MC; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00020.html (8,154 bytes)
8. RE: Brake lights-#2 - followup (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 17:54:50 -0600; Try connecting the reverse lights to either the brake light or rear park light wires (since you now know those are both good). At least you'll be able to confirm that the actual rear lights are eith; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00046.html (7,031 bytes)
9. RE: Welding clutch fork to cross shaft TR6 TR250 (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 06:41:37 -0600; Here is another gem I saved from Brian Schlorff (Power British) when I used to subscribe to the big triumphs list: The fundamental engineering problem with the clutch fork is simply this: The pin is; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00120.html (9,247 bytes)
10. rear light housings / chrome paint (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 22:37:46 -0600; Hi Listers, I recently noticed that one of my taillights is dimmer than the other one (left one is dimmer). Only the rear park light and brake light are dimmer, the rest of the lights are evenly brig; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00021.html (9,075 bytes)
11. RE: rear light housings / chrome paint (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:07:13 -0600; Many thanks for the great replies. The consensus seems to be to go for it with the chrome paint. I'll try that out and report back to the list once I've had a chance to assess the results. One person; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00036.html (9,888 bytes)
12. RE: rear light housings / chrome paint (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 07:30:03 -0600; This is a follow-up to the note below in case anyone searches the archives in the future for the problem of one light is dimmer than the other. I had extinguished all the usual electrical causes and; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00086.html (10,245 bytes)
13. steering column bushings (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 23:10:49 -0600; Here is a description of what I did with mine back in '98. I posted this to the big triumphs list at the time. Hope it helps out now. 1. I followed the procedure in the Bentley manual and found it qu; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00152.html (9,635 bytes)
14. RE: Large female wire clips needed (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 21:32:44 -0600; I concur that British Wiring is a good source of these. One thing I'll add to the previous reply is that getting the connector is only part of the answer you are looking for. Another important aspec; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00349.html (7,741 bytes)
15. RE: Keys (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 20:39:14 -0600; Here is a funny story with a good ending that I think might be relevant for you. My TR6 is a very late one and I've had it since 1982. It's pretty original in the sense that any mods were done by me; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00454.html (8,241 bytes)
16. steering rack mounts (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:29:13 -0600; Hello 6-pack listers, I have some questions about the steering rack mounts and bushings. I'm using stock mounts and u-bolts and polyurethane bushings. I have a home version of the spreading tool pict; /html/6pack/2005-06/msg00271.html (7,706 bytes)
17. RE: steering rack mounts (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:29:30 -0600; Regarding this earlier post, some people requested I let them know what I end up doing. I received only positive reviews of the solid Aluminum kit from Richard Good. I also spoke with Richard and he; /html/6pack/2005-06/msg00288.html (8,884 bytes)
18. gl-4 gear oil in usa pacific nw (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 21:08:53 -0600; Hi Everyone, It's time for my gear oil to be changed as it's been a few years. Gearbox is the stock unit with J-type OD. Last time I did this I used some Sta-Lube GL-4 gear oil I purchased from some; /html/6pack/2005-06/msg00327.html (8,105 bytes)
19. RE: gl-4 gear oil in usa pacific nw (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:29:01 -0600; Yep, thanks for the heads up. Looks like there is a NAPA in Blaine so that will be my first place to look. If not, then there is probably a Wal**t in Bellingham :) Thanks Kai and Irv. Peter Zaborski; /html/6pack/2005-06/msg00330.html (7,754 bytes)
20. rear hub question (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <plz@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 07:30:22 -0600; Hi Everyone, I have a spare rear hub (nyloc nut, not the castellated nut version) on which one of the stud mounting holes is "worn". In the sense that the stud which was in there spins instead of gri; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00010.html (6,911 bytes)

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