6pack
[Top] [All Lists]

74 EGR valve removal/replacement

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: 74 EGR valve removal/replacement
From: RedTriumphTr6@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 14:16:42 EDT
Fellow 6packers:  My 74 1/2 seems to have a vacuum problem that plagues me 
periodically.  I found my idle refusing to drop between shifts ...seems to 
stay at about 2200, but then creep back down to 800 if I wait about five 
seconds at stop, as at an intersection.  I pulled off the tube to the vacuum 
retard at the distributor and to my dismay found only a 150 to 200 rpm 
increase.  Before the problem the rpms jumped up about 500 (to 1300) until 
the tube was reconnected.  My troubles seemed to start after I cleaned and 
hosed down the engine this weekend.  I had a similar problem last month, but 
it disappeared and the vacuum was maintained after I removed and cleaned all 
of the emissions tubing.  Could I have plugged up something with water or 
gunk when I cleaned the engine?  I am again going to take all the tubes off 
and clean them, but I do have vacuum to and from the carbs...the problem area 
seems to be no vacuum from the distributor to the several tubes on the 
thermostatic switch on the radiator hose and to and from fuel traps.  Could 
the thermostatic switch be bad or the vacuum retard unit need replacement?  
If the latter needs to be replaced, how is it removed from the distributor?  
I don't see a nut or screw to loosen; the long end of it just seems to be 
inserted into the distributor somehow.  Bentley's manual does not seem to 
explain how to remove it.  
     Also, another concern may be relevant here. I thought that I would 
remove the EGR valve and inspect it, but I may have screwed up..I thought 
that the screw on top of the valve was to be turned for removal of the valve. 
 I found it very difficult to turn, applied some rust penetrant, and finally 
it would turn somewhat.  I then saw that the valve unscrews from the manifold 
(I think), and this small screw may not have anything to do with removal.  
What does it do...some internal adjustment or does it help dismantle the 
valve itself for cleaning? Did my tinkering with this somehow break something 
inside the valve, causing my current vacuum problem?  I hope I do not need a 
new valve, as no supplier seems to sell one ....help guys? (I noted the 
problem after cleaning the engine and then messing with the valve...started 
car only after doing both.  I then noticed the vacuum problem.)  One final 
thought..... I have slightly adjusted the by-pass valves on both carbs by 
turning the screw a half turn or so w/o any affect on my idle, as the vacuum 
problem does not allow for any idle change....can't follow the Moss catalog's 
instructions as a result to reseat the valves.   Thoughts guys on any of the 
above?                    Bob Pierson
                                                                              
         CF29461UO

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>