I need to clarify........... is this a two bank header with one dual port
flange, and one single port flange per bank ?
First thing, if its not to late........ is to re torque
Being very conscious of the muscle tension being applied to each bolt ...
17 - 18 lbs.
This should be done after cool down of your first start up, and again after
your next fifty miles or so.
OK...., now for the Tom foolery.....
Remember those little free floating flanges shaped like a football that hold
both intake & exhaust flush to head.
Part of the problem is those little dots of metal on the side that makes
contact with the flanges.
They are either warn from time, or in my opinion to small and not flat
enough to begin with, especially with the two different types of metals they
are in contact with.
But with a mig or tig welder and sander, it is easy to improve on this poor
design.
Also the thickness of your flanges on exhaust, versus intake may vary, check
these for sure.
DON
----- Original Message -----
From: <Opntop@aol.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: leaky header
> The more I drive it the more I need this list ! Hear a strange noise and
> looks like the exhaust gasket leaks at # 4 cylinder . I installed a
stainless
> steel header a few months ago and used the gasket that came with it ( a
dark
> gray graphite like material ) the one that was there originally with the
> manifold was thinner and metallic. The mounting flange was machined flat
> prior to installation. Is there a more appropriate gasket that's more
durable
> ? more leak proof ?
> Thanks as always to all
> Sal
> TR250
>
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