Gary,
I had a similiar problem with the field coil brushes on my TR4 starter. I
just cut the braided copper leads about 1/4" from the bar that they are
bonded to. I cut the new brushes at the same place and soldered the ends
(old lead stub and new brush long lead with insulation) together. The trick
is that pair of brushes must be insulated and not touch the case. Shrink
tubing over the soldered connections is in order. I probably didn't use a
big enough soldering iron - maybe real auto-electric shops do it routinely.
Your problem with the external solenoid may be this: There are 2 coils,
a heavy-duty 'pull-in' coil and a small holding coil. The holding coil does
not have enough electrical 'oompf' to close the starter connection - only
enough to keep it closed once there.
Both coils get power from the large spade connector at the back. The
hold-in coil return path is through ground (the case of the solenoid &
starter). However, the return path for the pull-in coil flows through the
large solenoid post that supplies power to the starter motor itself. This
is so the pull-in coil will be cut out during actual starting (allowing all
available power to go to actually turning the motor I guess).
Anyway, if you removed the soleniod, dismantle, clean and reassemble,
you'll wonder (like I did) why it won't even close the starter connection if
you test by applying 12V power to the large spade connection ("WR") and the
solenoid body. It will work fine when attatched to the starter, but to test
the pull-in coil while the solenoid is off the starter, you must connect
ground to the lower large main post ("STA" terminal). Hope this helps - I
never had much luck rebuilding my TR6 starter.
Jeff
'74 CF13816U
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Fluke" <res0s0t7@verizon.net>
To: "TR6 list" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:30 PM
Subject: brush nonsense
> Listers,
>
> I have fought the brush attachment battle and so far have had no success.
I
> can't heat the silver buss bar enough to solder to it because the heat is
so
> well conducted to the windings and their insulation. The starter is
Lucas
> number 25647. Maybe a local electrical repair shop would have a bonding
tool
> of some kind. Maybe those on this list who have replaced starter brushes
have
> an earlier unit that doesn't feature this type of brush connection. I try
not
> to have a bad attitude regarding Lucas hardware.
>
> I have also found that the solenoid, detached from the starter, doesn't
> operate strongly enough to close the electrical contacts while testing it
with
> battery jumper cables. I disassembled it and found nothing obviously
wrong,
> reassembled it and it still won't close the contacts without the little
extra
> help of a push of the armature by hand. Maybe I have somehow screwed it
up
> while disassembling the starter, it did work in the car. That gear drive
> starter is looking better all the time.
>
>
> Gary
> '73
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