Since you are installing new bushings, probably your camber settings might
need to be adjusted. Since you will have the entire affair apart, I would
HIGHLY recommend spending the extra bucks and get you a set of Richard
Good's trailing arm adjustment brackets. These are excellent and very easy
to work with. I have a set on my TR6 and they sure came in very handy when
adjusting the camber. Beats the heck out of the 'notched' brackets.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 08:15
To: j.honor@comcast.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: trailing arm bushings
Hi,
I'm gonna say "yes" to removing the entire trailing
arm to do the job. After you get the spring out, you
will have already "undone" most of the stuff anyway.
Also, if the bushings have NEVER been replaced then
there's a good chance that the bolts in the trailing
arm brackets are situated such that you won't be able
to get them out without removing the trailing arm
brackets...in other words the bolt will hit the frame
before it comes out of the bracket. Mental
note...turn the bolt around for next time. Make sure
you keep track of the shims for each of the
brackets.(alignment) Also, if you have any rear end
squat(negative camber), you may consider changing the
bracket configuration to correct that, but keep in
mind that the new bushings will correct some or all of
the camber issues...again, make sure you turn those
bolts around so that you can easily remove the
trailing arm if need be. Moss has a page in each of
the catalogs that describes changing the bracket
configuration for camber.
On the old bushings...I've found that a gear
puller(available for cheap at Harbor Freight) is the
easiest way to get those suckers out! Some people use
fire & burn 'em out...your call.
Cheers,
Todd Bermudez
'67 GT6 MKI
'68 TR250(under construction)
'74 TR6 Overdrive/Surrey
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