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Re: Yet another clutch thread - FIXED! / preload

To: jvannorman@wowway.com (John VanNorman)
Subject: Re: Yet another clutch thread - FIXED! / preload
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 12:26:15 -0700
John--- The original Gunst preload called for a (supplied) spring that
loaded the throwout bearing with approx. 15 lb.of pressure. Not much at
all, but enough to keep the bearing spinning with the clutch. (No
come-up time, no squeal)
I doubt if you would feel this assistance, and as Kendall said, this
extension spring relaxes as the pedal is depressed.
 
If anyone wanted to add this to their existing clutch linkage, just come
up with a spring that shows approx. 15 lb. of "pull", when extended 1/2
inch. Attach it to the lowest hole in the clutch operating arm so it
pulls it towards the rear of the car.  However, I wouldn't recommend
doing so unless you are using a quality throwout bearing, such as the
Gunst.  It may also require more preload to get the larger KOYO bearing
to spin.
One can add a preload spring to the inside of the Slave Cylinder, but
it's kind of messy to get the right amount of "push".
I've used both methods, and each arrived at the intended goal.

Dick

From:
jvannorman@wowway.com(John VanNorman) 

Kendall and   everyone   who has a Gunst bearing, 
I've often wondered about this - how does using the pre-load spring on
the cross shaft affect the amount of resistance felt when pushing in the
clutch pedal? In other words, how strong is the spring? Is it strong
enough that it "assists" when you push in the clutch, making it easier
to push in? 
And Kendall, out of curiosity, how did you decide what strength spring
to go with? 
John V.
1974 1/2 TR6 
The fix to the problem that seems to be working *so far* is attaching a
'pre-load' to the cross shaft arm like you Gunst bearing guys are
running. 




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