That's right, folks!
VIN 1758 is back in da hands of its rightful owner (me). No apparent damage
or loss either. The doors are STILL not working =(
I emptied the cylinder for the drivers side door and proceeded to try an
expiriment.
The hydraulic lines are 1/4". I also have a couple 3/8" sleeves of tubing.
While holding the cylinder in my hand outside the car, I tried to extend the
strut inside and did so without any problem. Then I tried pushing it back
down into da cylinder...no problem.
Then I extended the strut again and plugged the bottom port with my thumb
before trying to push the strut back inside. The strut showed a good amount
of resistance, but did better with the upper port plugged.
Next I tried extending the strut with the bottom port plugged, then repeated
the test with the top port.
THEORY: with both ports open and the strut installed in da car, I can open da
door.
If I plug the top port the cylinder should hold the door up until I unplug
it.
If I plug either port I should not be able to open the door.
I rigged a setup using the flare fittings, hoses, and a relief valve to test
my theory, and it FAILED!!! I have yet to try my theory under the exact same
conditions with which I tested the strut, which might make a difference if
theres an air leak I missed.
Please note that this is the factory hydraulic cylinder, as I do not have the
air doors installed.
Also, I need the following parts:
The brackets on the doors which attatch to the cylinder.
The piece that the primary latch clips onto. This piece is a "looped" piece
of metal with a flat part on the bottom.
The drivers side window glass.
New Cylinders for da doors.
cost on these parts and where I can get them would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, what in da world makes da air door upgrade cost $600?
Is it the air compressor? How much does a 125 psi 12 volt air compressor
cost anyway?
Any Brick meets in da western USA next year? Kentucky seems quite far to
drive...
Thanks,
Riley
All U guys who have parts i am looking for please email me.
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