>Next, disconnect the positive battery cable at the battery and
>connect a 12 volt light bulb in series between the battery positive
>terminal and battery positive cable. If the bulb lights, even a little
>glow, you have a current drain. If the bulb blows, you have a big
>current drain.
This is also a good test, but I prefer using a multimeter in the ammeter
configuration. That way you'll actually get a current reading. The clock
or memory for an updated radio should be drawing something like 10ma. This
means that the car should be able to sit for several months before the
battery is degraded.
Now you can pull fuses one at a time, until you see the meter go to zero.
I'd suggest that you pull the radio fuse first. Since this is the only
thing that is supposed to be drawing current. If the meter doesn't go
to zero, then resume pulling fuses till the meter goes to zero. At that
point, you have found the circuit that has the drain (short).
If you have pulled all the fuses and still have a current drain start
checking the firewall penetration. Terry had a car in his shop that had
a drain. Turned out there was dirt in the firewall connector. When they
took it apart, the drain stopped. So they cleaned up the connector and
solved the problem.
If you haven't you might want to check out the Electrical System articles
I've written on our web page:
http://www.bricklin.org/TechCentral/BI_TC_TCArticleHome.htm
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
If you can read this - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
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