I found part of the issue with the compressor wiring. It seems that is was
plugged into an auxillary jack in the middle of the fuse block that was always
active. I will have try to connect it to the AC/Heater fuse if possible. I
made a temporary connection and the Clutch switch does not care if the fan
switch is on, but if it can at least cut off with the ignition that will
prevent me from accidentally leaving it on and running down the battery.
When testing the fuse block. The entire left side is active with the key off.
The entire right side shows nothing with the key off, but is active when the
key is on.
I did replace the voltage regulator, but I have not seen any differences so
far. I checked the alternator and it is cool to the touch and the voltage
reading on my LED gauge is showing that it is OK. So I believe it and the
diode is OK.
I switched back to the motor fan and shroud instead of the electric one that I
installed. It stopped working for some reason today and I really cannot have
the current draw as well as taking a chance of the fan not working. I may try
to set up as an switchable push fan if overheating is an issue. I am hoping
with the high flow water pump, high flow thermostat and new radiator that it
will be fine. Will have to wait until a hot day to be sure.
So I will see if the issue is better with the AC Clutch not always having
access to power affects the battery drain.
Greg 0036
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