> the doors (who locks a TR6, anyways?) How do I unlock it without a key? I'd
> guess that I can remove the interior panels and do it. It must have flipped
>
To unlock the door from the inside, pull the handle back as if to
open the door. (amazing the things you discover reading the manual) If that
doesn't work, you've got an interal problem.
> I think my rack is loose. I tightened the pinch-bolt for the steering
> column as much as I dared, which helped, but I think my high-speed shake is
> a combination of unset toe-in (out) and a rack that moves back and forth a
>bit.
> I put in polyurethane rack bushings when I redid the front end, but I didn't
> have the special tool for tightening them and was in a hurry, so I just made
> them as tight as I could by hand. Does anyone know a good 1-person substitute
> for the tool to force the steering rack clamps apart?
>
Open the hood. Grab the column at the rubber joint. tuern back and
forth.
Watch rack. If rack mooves, you need to spread the mounts further apart. I made
a tool to do this with a piece of threaded rod, a piece of conduit, and a
nut that fits on the rod.
> How important are the cotter pins on the upper front suspension arms
> (inner)? On one side, when I removed the nuts I was unable to get the cotters
> out, and after removing the nut couldn't even see where they were to drive
> them out. I've checked it from time to time since reassembling, and the nuts
> are still tight.
My philosophy is that they are probably there for a reason...
>
> How hard is it to re-upholster a TR6 seat? The driver's side seat on
> my 6 is pretty ratty and getting worse.
There are 3 ways to do it, the easy way, the hard way, and the
expensive
way.
Easy: remove the seat. Take to upholstry shop. Pay the nice man.
Hard: remove seat. Strip seat. struggle. Take to upholstry shop.
Pay the nice man.
Expensive way: remove seat. buy a real seat. bolt in new seat.
>
Actually, the last method is probably the cheapest in reality. My
race seat which is really comfy cost $300.00...
> I also need to order some rebuilt or new rear shocks - I keep hitting
> the bump stop on the left rear. Any recommendations? Apple hydraulics? I'd
> want slightly stiffer than stock shocks, I think (I have SPAX set to 8 (of 14)
> in the front, and will probably stiffen them a bit more).
Call Apple. Buy the HD TR-6 shocks. $140/pr. No other options except
going to tube shocks in the back (~$230).
Bob
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