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Re: GT6 diff woes

To: british-cars@autox.team.net (british cars)
Subject: Re: GT6 diff woes
From: britcars@hpfckjs.fc.hp.com
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 93 13:33:28 MDT
I recently replace my 3.89 diff with the 3.27 in my '70 GT6 with OD.  I have
found this to be an excellent replacement.  The 3.27 diff are much more readily
available.  Often you can find a parts car at a very reasonable price.  

The diffs in the later spits are essentially the same and will work with some
minor mods.  but many of the later spits had 4.11 diffs.

If you change the ratio remember to change the spedo also.

Many of the other parts are cheap such as the roto-flex couplings and U-joints
replace them while you are changing the diff.  

You should be able to find a junk yard diff for around $250, rebuilding will 
depend on the extent of the damage, but could be as much as $800.

You may want to start applying penetrating oil to the bolts especially the long
bolt that holds the rear of the diff.  You will probably destroy it getting it
out and even if you don't you should replace it.  So order a new one up front. 
When you are putting it back together grease the bolt to help you remove it next
year when decide to do the frame up restoration.
--
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Kevin Spooner                                  
The Sports Works of Greeley
Specializing in Triumphs and British Sports Cars                                
  
britcars@hpfckjs.fc.hp.com                            

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From  rwg1@cornell.edu Tue Sep 11 11:55:12 2001
From: (Roger Garnett) rwg1@cornell.edu
To: jerry@tr2.com, british-cars@hoosier
Date:          Thu, 28 Oct 1993 12:56:55 
Subject:       Re: Paint Systems

Jerry writes:
> Roger Garnett writes:
> Clay writes: 
> > > The accuspray...Devilbiss..Fuji HVLP outfit, 
> > > The HVLP turbines really put out the heat.

> *** There's a _turbine_ in there?!?

No, out of there. There's 2 ways you can supply the High-
Volume, Low- Pressure air:

1) A big compresser (5+ HP reccommended), with a very good air dryer, and a 
special regulator.

2) Turbines provided by the gun manufacturer. They are about the size of a 
welder, and pump a lot of air into a big hose at low pressure (HVLP). The 
turbine action heats the air, which helps dry it out a lot (good), but 
stays hot at the gun (bad, especially for lacquers)

>  My question:  how easy are is it to clean those things?

One of the main differences in most HVLP guns, is that they have 
pressurized paint cups, rather than the vacuum in a siphon guns cup. An 
Accu-Spray any how, of which the "cheaper" (yea, right) models have the cup 
mounted under the spray head just like a siphon gun, don't appear much 
worse to clean. (As you don't let your paint set up!) I have heard 
complaints about some of the "conversion" HVLP systems (Binks, Devilbiss, 
etc, which used converted siphon systems). Once you get into any system 
with a remote paint pot, you're talking pain in the butt for cleanup.

> Even so, cleaning the equipment is one of the more onerous aspects of
> painting.

Ain't that the truth!

Around these parts, most of the painters still swear by their siphon guns, 
and probably will until California style regulations force them to change.

Roger -maybe we can just dip the car- Garnett



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