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Re: restoring faded paint...

To: James TenCate <jtc@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: restoring faded paint...
From: "W. Ray Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 10:50:07 -0500 (EST)
On Sun, 13 Feb 1994, James TenCate wrote:

> time to fool with the TR6, specifically the paint.  This car has a badly 
> faded and oxidized original coat (probably a lacquer?) of Carmine red .  I 
> thought I'd try rubbing it out (by hand, one section at a time).  Now, 
> I've tried this in the past on other cars with only limited success.  I 
> also haven't been able to find a really good book on the subject 
> (suggestions?).  Usually I'd leave this stuff to a pro BUT, I couldn't 
> resist at least trying again.  I managed to polish off the top coat of 
> oxidation and the front fender is red again instead of pink.  The 
> problem?  I don't seem to be able to bring out a nice deep colour and 
> shine (wish I could just keep it wet :-) and I'm hoping someone can offer 
> some hints.
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday, carefully following the directions on my can 
> of polishing compound.  I've added my own questions to the directions...  
> (1)  Wash car first.  I knew that was important so I scrubbed the old 
> surface really clean.  No questions here.
> (2)  Apply small amount of polishing compound to well-dampened cloth.  OK, 
> how wet should it be?  I grabbed a clean but ratty underwear rag, got it 
> soaked and wrung the water out pretty well.

It's probably not critical.  I think the dampening is just so the rag
doesn't soak all the carrier out of the polish.

> (3)  Rub compound well into surface, turning cloth frequently.  OK, I 
> gather I should first apply the compound to the surface and then rub it in 
> with the other parts of the rag (which are free from compound)?  Makes 
> sense.  Also, how hard should I rub?

Actually, I apply polish and rub with the cloth, turning the cloth to a
new spot only when I apply more polish. If you apply polish once, and
start turning the rag over and over, you will remove most of the polish
before it has polished.  The trick generally is to keep rubbing the polish
until it breaks down and enters the cloth or dusts away.  When the surface
is dry, you have lost most of your cutting action, and should reapply
polish with a new section of the cloth. 

Go *very* lightly over any edges or creases, or you will polish right
through the paint.  With most polishes applied to flat or gently curved
surfaces, you want a steady pressure, and to apply with an overlapping
circular motion. 

> (4)  Remove excess before it dries.  OK, I tried removing the excess with 
> another rag but there was always a little compound residue that dried to a 
> white haze.  I also tried rinsing with water but then had trouble with the 
> next step which is...

No, don't wash off.  Buff the residue off with progressively cleaner
cloths.  The last bits can come off when you wax the panel.  

> (5)  Finish by buffing with a clean dry cloth.  This step always 
> disappointed me.  The slightly wet or damp surface would always end up 
> dull.  
> 

Again, don't wash off.  The water removes the material you are using to
polish.  I think the process of buffing off the residue breaks down the
grit in the polish to finer and finer particles, giving more of a shine. 
Some rubbing compounds use an oily carrier that is difficult to wash off
with plain water. 

Another problem may be that you are trying to do too much with one grade
of polish.  Polishes contain fine grit that literally abraids away the
unwanted dull, dead paint.  This will leave scratches.  The scratches are
removed by applying progressively finer polishes (finer abrasives) until
the surface becomes shiny.  Wax then can fill any microscratches left. 
Most systems will provide 2 or 3 grades of polish for hand application,
and perhaps another 3 for machine application (machine application can use
finer grits because the machine does more of the work). 

Although machines are faster, they also can ruin the paint on a panel very
fast.  If you are not experienced with this, the safest way is to use hand
formulation and hand application.  For added safety, when all you are
doing is cleaning off oxidized paint, use only the finest grade of
polish available.  Don't apply Dupont Orange rubbing compound (or any kind
of "rubbing compound") and expect a glossy finish in one step.

Using only the very finest polish reduces the process to two
steps--prolonged hand work with a very fine polish, followed by waxing.  I
would go to a parts store that stocks the full line of Maguire's waxes and
polishes, buy the finest (least abrasive) hand polishing material, and
their super polymer wax, and try those.  These should really do the job. 

One further caveat.  You might be wrong, and the paint might be aged alkyd
enamel.  The gloss of alkyd enamel is in the top surface.  Once oxidation
or polishing takes this off, you cannot hope for a high gloss.  A soft
sheen may be the best you can do.  If you're right and it's lacquer, then
it should polish out very nicely to a gloss. 

> (5) are likely where I'm not doing things right.  I take it this whole 
> procedure requires LOTS of clean rags too, right?  I HAVE access to a 

Yes.  I stop at garage sales and buy old towels whenever I can.

> polishing wheel but don't dare try it yet.  Besides, the technique is 
> probably different too and I'd hate to buff off what little paint I have 
> left :-o !
> 

It's very easy to go through the paint with a buffer.  Do a panel a day by
hand.  The buffing wheels are essential only if you are really cutting
back an new paint job. 

Ray Gibbons





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