> Well, I'm finally ready to start the B (67 MGB GT to be exact).
> Everything on this car is either brand new or reconditioned. I'm
> wondering, though, what's the process/procedure for starting (or
> attempting to start) a brand new motor? It cranks over just fine, but
> I remember a thread a while back about priming the oil pump and
> getting the oil pressure to come up before really attempting to start
> it. I even remember something about removing the distributor and
> spinning the oil pump directly. What is the procedure for doing this?
On a MGB engine (and Midget for that matter), the oil pump is driven directly
by the camshaft; not by the distributor. Your only choice is to remove all
spark plugs, and spin the engine with the starter until good oil pressure is
shown. Spin for 30 seconds, let the starter cool for 2 minutes. Repeat. It
will probably take five or six tries before you see good pressure. Once you
have pressure, give it one more 30 second shot to really move some oil
around.
If after ten or so tries there still isn't any pressure, stop and get back
to me. Too late (too tired) for me to go into all those possibilities on a
what-if. :>
> While I'm on the topic of distributor, what's the best way to rough it
> in (and make sure the plug wires are connected properly)?
>
Valves adjusted, cover still off. Turn the engine to 10 degrees BTDC. Check
that both valves on #4 cylinder are tight, and both on #1 are loose. If
reversed, turn engine 360 degrees and try again. If neither position get
the desired valve postitions, either the adjustment or cam timing is off.
Correct and repeat. Ummm, with a stock cam, the #4 intake may not be fully
tight at 10 before. But it will be a lot less than the normal lash.
Insert the distributor with the vacuum can pointing at about 11 o'clock.
The rotor should be pointing at 1:30, give or take a bit. If it is not,
remove and repostition distributor drive.
Turn the distributor clockwise until the points *just* begin to open. This
is best confirmed with an ohm meter. Vacuum can should now be pointing
somewhere around 12 to 1 o'clock. If so, lock it down (not too tight). If
not (say 2 - 2:30), then move distributor drive one tooth counter-clock.
Cap wiring is:
3 1
C
4 2
> Finally, after filling the motor with fluids, I discovered two leaks:
> one around the valve cover (easy to fix) and the other from one of the
> brand new freeze plugs! Anyone ever changed a freeze plug while the
> motor is in the car?
>
Any of the three on the right side, no problem. Buy a freeze plug installer,
the cheapest one you can find. You will not be using it very often. Or, you
can look at the installers, then improvise something.
If it's the one on the rear, forget it. :>
> Kendall Robinson
> kendallr@chey.com
>
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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