Had my first auto-x of the season with the new improved (?) MGB. I was
10 seconds off the frontrunner's pace on the first run (Ouch!) but
shaved that to < 4 seconds by my final run. I had *huge* amounts of
understeer (isn't it interesting how a pylon can grow to be 100' tall
when you're heading right for it?), so I got an AddCo 3/4" rear
anti-sway. Has anyone installed one of these? You need to mount a
plate to the top of the bracket welded to the diff. The problem is
that the bracket interferes with this plate sitting flat. I didn't
want to cut a notch in the plate or grind down the bracket, so I
mounted the plate UNDER the bracket, a difference of about 1/8 of an
inch. Anyone see a problem with this?
I'm sure Phil Eithier will be putting out a great summary, and one of
the things he'll mention will be a loooong straight because we had to
move the course to avoid some breaking pavement. Well, I found out
that I -probably- should have reached for 3rd, since when I looked down
at the end of that straight on my last run the tach was at 6800 RPM! I
was lucky enough (I think) to just end up with a bunch of bent
pushrods; I pulled the rocker shaft and the pushrods, and the cup end
of the pushrods describe interesting geometric forms as they roll
accross my surface plate. Are there any tips for putting new pushrods
in old lifters? On Chevy smallblocks, I used to spin the pushrods in a
lathe and polish the ends. Also, how exactly do you adjust the valves?
The service manual seems to be a little vague here; It talks about
adjusting them cold, and adjusting one valve with another 'fully open'
- do I need to use my dial indicator for this, or is it accurate enough
to do this by eye while turning the crank? Since the rocker doesn't
sit parallel to the top of the valve stem, is this .015 clearance at
the contact point between the rocker and the valve stem?
All replies appreciated!
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