Skip,
*** I thought I'd spread this thread to the whole list in case any others
*** want to get in on the discussion, or perform the modification on their
*** own cars.
Finally I have a few minutes at my terminal that I can write you. Ok, no
PSPice, but I can explain how I wired the 3 relays.
The first relay solenoid had one side grounded (W1), and the other coming
from the ignition switch (W2). I'll use the OLD lucas relay notation, since
I don't have the Lucas/Bosch code conversion handy. So W1, W2 are for the
coil winding, and C1 - C4 are the switched connections. Let's say for
simplicity that C1 is the connection input, and C2 and C3 are connected in
parallel with C1 when the relay is energized. That leaves C4 to be connected
with C1 when the relay is not energized. I'm randomly assigning these
letters (C1 - C4), to make our conversation simpler (?).
Color codes will be as Lucas. U=Blue R=Red B=Black N=Brown W=white
Relay #1 "Ignition ON causes both Hi and Lo ON, when Hi selected"
"Ignition Off causes only Hi On, when Hi selected"
W1 to earth. B
W2 from white (+) ignition on. W
C1 from bright output wire on dimmer switch. ( U/W)
C2 to W2(of Relay#2) U/W
C3 to W2(of Relay#3) U/R
C4 to W2(of Relay#2) U/W
Note: C2 and C4 are connected by a Jumper
Relay #2 "Hi circuit switching relay"
W1 to earth B
W2 from C2 and C4(of Relay#1) U/W
C1 from Brown (Heavy Gauge wire) N
C2 to main circuit of all 4 headlights (Heavy Gage Wire) U/W
Relay #3 "Lo circuit switching relay"
W1 to earth B
W2 from C3(of Relay#1) U/R
C1 from Brown (Heavy Gage Wire)
C2 to Lo circuit of all 4 headlights (Heavy Gage Wire) U/R
So there it is. Now, Relay#1 is the one that is giving me problems. I've
had to replace it twice. I'm using those cylindrical relays that came on TR-7
and TR-8, since I could get them free from the British Junkyard I worked at.
This system would be much more reliable if Relay 1 was bagged. I guess I'm
willing to do that. The only problem is that on Combo Hi, I'm running
2*(55) + 2*(60) + 2(35) + 2*(40) watts, or 380 watts. Relay#1 allows me
to trim that number to 2*(55) + 2*(60), or 230 watts with the Ignition switched
off, as it would be when getting pulled over. Now, it is possible that I'm
being Extra paranoid, but I've heard that certain Police departments do
carry Lightmeters in their cars. Plus, if I did end up getting some 100 watt
bulbs in my Cibie's, I'd be around 500 watts on Combo Hi.
Since I'm not an EE, maybe you could fancy a way to make this system solid-
state, or perhaps specify a relay which would prove to be more reliable.
The key to this lighting system is that it uses Lucas color codes, connectors
and also wires. It is also a no-cut modification so it can be removed
easily. (in case of Relay#1 failure...AARGH).
I really enjoy this list; people have a lot of good ideas, and are very
considerate of one another. It's an enjoyable way to spend each afternoon.
Greg Meboe MEBOE@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
Dept of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University Pullman, Wash.
'67 Spit-6 (Daily) '74 TR-6 (In Progress)
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