I just wrote a great message on how to change rotoflex joints the easy
way, and my mailer cut me off and I lost the whole thing. Shucks. I'll
try again. This will be the short version, so if anybody wants more info,
E-mail me and I'll go into more detail.
All the rotoflex does is account for axle length differences as
the suspension moves thru its travel. It is basically undeformed at ride
height, and fully deformed at full bump and full droop. Attempting to
fit the coupling at full droop (as the manuals will say) requires that
you exert enough energy to deform the coupling to its maximum extent.
This is why the job can be very difficult.
The second reason the job can be difficult is disassembling the
outer hub to fit the new joint.
It is possible to change the joint without removing the hub, or
jacking up the car. Since the joint is undeformed at ride height, this
leads to a (relatively) easy way to do it.
Roll the rear end onto ramps. Undo the inner u-joint flange and all the
rotoflex bolts. Remove the inner axle. Prise the old joint off of the
outer axle. Now comes the leap of faith. Cut the pretensioning metal
band off of the new rotoflex joint, and slip (prise) the joint over the
outer axle. Replace the inner axle and bolt up the u-joint flange. Now,
fit all of the new rotoflex bolts on the joint all the way up to the
heads and 'offer' (I love that word) the assembly up to the waiting bolt
holes. With the rotoflex coupling still an inch or two from the axles, fit
the bolts into their respective holes, and start the threads. Note; this
is made easier if you have the 'wonder tool' that is, a Vise-Grip chain tool.
After the threads are started, use a the above mentioned tool or a big
hose clamp to slightly shrink the outer diameter of the rotoflex coupling
so it can be slid inward to contact the axles. Tighten bolts to
recommended torque, and drive the car off of the ramps.
I have used this method, and it has saved me a good amount of time.
One other thing, I will not mask my praise of the Vise-grip chain tool.
It is the only tool I have found to safely undo the brake reservoir caps
of 69-74 Spits and GT-6's, as well as safely clamp onto crank and
alternator pulleys so you can undo the central nut. This tool lets you
determine how much force you want to exert on the pulley, so it would
take a concious effort to mar what you're trying to grab. (Maybe
unconcious for some). I have also used it as a coil spring compressor,
and it slices and dices tomatoes like you wouldn't believe!
I hope this helps.
Greg Meboe meboe@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu
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