I always wonder what all that heat does to the metal parts involved. In
particular, I'd keep it off of the leaf spring and the gas tank...
Glen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Dudley" <cobra@cdc.hp.com>
To: <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
Cc: "'rfl'" <rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu>; <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: stuck bolt on rear MGB spring
> I've actually had pretty good luck just using propane heat- depends on
> how good of a heat sink the surrounding material is. I do have a MAPP
> rig just in case, though.
>
> Roland
>
> >
> > heat is the only way to go, propane is not hot enough, you need the heat
of
> > oxy-acetylene. there are small affordable units that use oxygen and mapp
gas
> > that will work.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rfl [mailto:rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:30 AM
> > To: british-cars@autox.team.net
> > Subject: stuck bolt on rear MGB spring
> >
> >
> > I was in the process of replacing the rear leaf springs on my
> > 65 B. No problem with the right one, but the front bolt holding
> > the spring to the car is siezed within the bushing that passes
> > through the spring. I've tried all sorts of ways to free it,
> > with no success (short of an oxy-acetylene torch). I can't
> > just cut it. The head is against the flange coming down
> > from the chassis. Turning it with a wrench just rotates the
> > bolt+bushing. I've soaked with penetrating oil no no avail.
> > I've pounded on the end of the bolt. I've heated with a
> > propane torch (lot's of smoke from the rubber parts). I've
> > tried a saws-all, but it doesn't fit with the geometry.
> >
> > Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
>
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