Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> Here's what I usually do for my Spring startup procedure:
>
> Drain the old oil (even if it has 10 miles on it, there will be condensation)
> Pull the cam cover and pour two or three quarts of oil directly over the cam
>and
> down the chain.
> Replace the cam cover and add the rest of the oil.
> Disconnect the wire from the coil to the points.
> Pull the spark plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders.
I use "Marvel Mystery Oil" for this. Lighter weight and more penetrating than
motor
oil and may burn off better. It can also be used as a top cylinder lube in the
gas,
but I don't do that. I also wait one day at this step to hopefully penetrate
any
rust/corrosion on the rings/cylinder walls. During this time, I get the
battery up
to snuff, or buy a new one.
>
> Crank the engine over with the plugs still out (no compression pressure means
> less pressure on dry bearings, also higher cranking rpm).
> Crank until you see oil pressure start to come up on the gauge (don't crank
>for
> more than 15-20 sec at a time).
Good point. A couple of years ago when I brought my '66 Toronado back into
service,
I heated up the starter and the solenoid got stuck on! Had to pull the battery
cable (lucky it was loose) and replace the starter. Keep your ground cable
loose
enough to pull of in case this happens to you.
ALSO, beware of rusty ignition switches. This spring, I brought my Roadster
into a
shop for some minor work right after starting it for the season. When the
mechanic
brought it off the lift, it was making an awful noise. The key had stuck at the
start position and he let it run until it shorted the started and killed the
engine. He tried to say that it wasn't the shop's fault because the switch had
gone
bad. I contacted the corporate office (Walt's - AVOID!) and responded by saying
only an idiot would run an engine making that sort of noise. ...they paid.
A shot of WD-40 couldn't hurt.
> Replace the spark plugs, hook up the point wire, prime the carbs and light it
> off.
This is where an electric fuel pump comes in handy, although the cranking should
start to get the gas flowing.
>
>
> Dan Neuman wrote:
>
> > Hello All,
> > In the next couple days or so I actually plan on starting up my
> > new engine. I believe that it was last run around six or so months ago.
>Any
> > advice as how to go about starting it up as not to damage it?? I think
>there
> > is a tech tip somewhere about this, could someone point me to it??
> > I want to change the transmission oil. Does it take the same stuff
> > as the rear end?? i.e. gear oil 80-90 wt???
> > Thanks,
> > Daniel 69 2000
> > SF CA
>
> --
> Gordon Glasgow
> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org
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