My experience with SU's has been
that I need to lean out the whole range to get my car to pass. It
splutters off the test lot, and I richen it a bit, and all is
wonderful. Not legal, tho. THis spring, when I pull the car out, I'm
going to put in the new needles (thanks Ross) and see if they help. I
think I still have smog needles...
With Solexes and Webers, if they'll pass at high idle and loaded, then
I can get 'em to go thru at idle by leaning the idle circuit way out- of
course, here in WA they don't test NoX, so you can be overly lean and
get flying marks.
The cam could, indeed, be the problem if it has a significant overlap-
at idle, a good bit of fuel can be sucked right across the head and out
the exhaust ports- but the Solex cam doesn't overlap much, does it?
Another trick is to get your idle speed right up to the 'low idle'
limit- here, it's 1100rpm, which is significantly higher than most cars
idle. THat often helps make combustion more efficient...
Cars older than 25 years will be exempt here now, and in anticipation
of the immense savings, <grin> my girlfriend got me a CO tester for
Christmas. Now all I gotta do is get my carbs rebushed and I can use
it!
Toby
Friederich wrote:
>
> Well,
>
> It's that time of year (registration renewal, smog check required!). Yes,
> even on the '69 a smog is required in Las Vegas. It passes the high rpm
> (not very high), but fails miserably on the HC at idle. I imagine this has
> something to do with the air pump long ago removed, as well as the Solex
> carbs & cam. >
> Actually, I wonder how much this has to do with the cam? It would be fairly
> easy to change that with a 'stock' cam just for the smog check.
>
> I suppose I could also retard the timing, and fill with low octane (lower
> ignition temp?) gasoline as well. Any other tips before I panic? Maybe
> richen the idle mixture (lean is harder to ignite?) Thanks...
>
> -John F.
> '69 2000, Solex
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