Mike is right, I flushed all the lines and got some gunk out with the old
fluid. I let it run until the fluid was clear. But it is a good idea to
change the lines which I will do next winter. Now I just want to drive it
again.
Gary
In a message dated Tue, 5 Mar 2002 6:51:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
"datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> writes:
> I hope the line is not clogged with rust. As I said many times the brake
>lines rust from the inside out and all that crud will do a number on your
>brake seals. Don't ask me how I know but even using silicone w/brand new
>components everything needed to be replaced w/i 4 -6 years.
>
> When I disassembled the pistons and cylinders I found rust particles which
>scored the walls.
>
> I replaced all the lines with new ones I bent up. Not hard but very time
>consuming.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Geegc@aol.com>
> To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:11 AM
> Subject: rotor rooter brake line
>
>
> > The list helps again.
> >
> > As constant readers may recall that last night I discovered a clogged
> brake
> > line from the master cylinder to the junction box on the firewall. One
> > lister suggested a rotor rooter and so my BW went to the local OSH to buy
> > some cable that would fit in the tube.
> >
> > When she got it home we hooked the cable up to the drill and fed it into
> the
> > tube. Lo and behold, it worked and the obstruction was cleared. One
> thing I
> > discovered, it helps to have some extra rubber or a metal tube to run the
> > cable through to keep it from twisting onto itself as you feed it into the
> > brake line.
> >
> > Thanks again to Fred Schroeder for his suggestion.
> >
> > Now I have only another week or so of greasy evenings before I try to
> start
> > the beast.
> >
> > Gary C
> > 1966 1600
> > 1968 2000
> >
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