Mark I just removed the 4 way of f SRL 12445, if it will help you, cost
you shipping.
I mailed a spare tire hold down that I cut out to Glendale AZ cheapest
mail $4.49
Russ Southwell
Beardstown Il
Mark Sedlack wrote:
>This question is mostly to tap the combined brain trust of the list.
>
>Our 66 had a single piston brake M/C. Don't like the idea of running all four
>corners on one circuit, so I'm replacing that with a 7/8 bore double M/C from
>a 75 280Z ( NIB left over from building the Z).
>
>Initially I'm going to use the stock front calipers since the cylinders are
>good and they have good stopping power ( may do the Volvo thing down the
>road). The 66 did not have any valves of any sort in the hydraulic system -
>no combination, metering, or proportioning. Only had a 4-way junction block
>with the brake light switch.
>
>I know I will need to be able to adjust the front / rear bias, so I have a
>proportioning valve that will be installed in the rear line.
>
>Most modern disk/drum systems have a metering valve ( usually in the
>combination valve) which does not apply any pressure to the fronts before the
>rear line pressure builds to approx 75psi, purportedly to move the rear shoes
>into contact, against the spring retraction force, before the fronts.
>The research I've done on the web and usenet has yielded an evenly matched
>camp of opinions - you know, just like certain anatomy parts, everyone's got
>one... some say you absolutely need a metering valve, others just as adamantly
>say you don't.
>There are a couple of aftermarket stree rod brake system manufactures that
>have these - Master Power and ECI, and they say you need one ( course they
>also sell em too)
>
>What's the consensus here?
>
>Mark Sedlack
>OROC
>Cuyahoga Falls OH
>66 1600 http://home.neo.rr.com/mark2000/images/datsun1600/
>77 280Z http://home.neo.rr.com/mark2000/images/datsun1600/Z/Z.htm
>
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