That sounds a bit off. The 7.6v on the yellow wire to ground is fine, but the
black wire should be zero.
When you ground the yellow wire to the body, the gauge should go to max. Sounds
like you have a bad fuel gauge. Just to be sure you can try grounding the
terminal on the gauge that the yellow wire goes to.
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> On May 9, 2020, at 3:09 PM, RWM <RWM@rwmann.com> wrote:
With ignition switch in running position
Yellow wire to chassis is 7.6 volts, same as to black wire
Yellow wire to ground, no gauge deflection
> On May 9, 2020, at 13:19, Pat Horne <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> ï»¿Hook everything back up except the sender. Turn on the key & measure for
> voltage @ the sender wires to ground. One should show voltage & the other
> should be grounded. (Not home now to get colors) ground the one with voltage.
> If the gauge still sits on empty you have a bad gauge. If there is no voltage
> it could be a bad connection or a bad gauge. Let me know what yâ??all find &
> Iâ??ll walk you through more diagnostics.
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>>> On May 9, 2020, at 11:02 AM, RWM via Datsun-roadsters
>>> <email@example.com> wrote:
> ï»¿This has been discussed before, but here are the indications:
> Fuel gauge does not budge off empty
> Fuel sender resistance shows 34 ohms as installed, with tank less than half
> Fuel sender resistance when removed varies fairly linearly from 47 ohms
> (bottom) to near zero ohms (near top), then open circuit when the arm forces
> the wiper off the rheostat windings
> Fuel harness is delivering 7.6 volts, measured with the yellow and black
> connectors removed
> Shorting the fuel harness to itself (yellow to black) does not change the
> fuel gauge indication
> Ammeter works, temperature gauge works
> Ideas? Dash harness connector?
> - Bob Mann, '68 2000 Solex
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