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Re: Header coating and other questions...

To: DLM Assoc <DLMAssoc@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Header coating and other questions...
From: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:47:25 -0400 (EDT)
On Wed, 29 Apr 1998, DLM Assoc wrote:

> Hello all:

Howdy.

> I got my new Stahl header yesteday and it looks great.  If it fits
> and works as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper.  Before I
> start though, I've got a couple questions for the group...
> 
> 1.  I've had at least one recommendation that I have it powder
> coated, another says don't do anything.  What's the general
> concensus?  Is powder coating important?  Is high temp paint
> sufficient?  Should I leave it "nekkid"?

Don't paint it. The first time you heat cycle it, the paint will break 
into tiny flakes and get everywhere.

I don't think powder coating is made for high temp applications, so you 
might not want to go that route, although I do not know for sure that 
there is not a high temp powder coat

-unless-

Get it "jot hot" coated or other similar ceramic coating - inside and 
out. It's around $150 - $200 and the coating actually helps the 
"scavanging" effect of the pipe. Maybe the Jet Hot process is a high temp 
powder coat??? Note: Swain and Airborn are other vendors of the ceramic 
coating process.

> 2.  It's got a 2.5" OD collector pipe.  Can I continue 2.5" to the rear
> or do I have to do anything else through the frame X member (TR4)?

I don't know about fours... someone else 'll probably chime in. I know on 
TR6's that the 2.5 inch pipe to the back is one of the possible good setups.

> 3.  Someone recommended a section of flex pipe from the collector
> to the exhaust pipe to absorb vibration.  Seems to make sense,
> does it?

I can't tell you for sure, but flex pipe will probably introduce 
problems, I would not do this if there are other options.
 
> 4.  This sucker's going to be loud... is that a problem anywhere? 
> Noise doesn't seem to bother the local autocross group here, except
> for one RX7 that they comment about but don't take action against.
> Is a "supertrap" or similar a good idea or just not needed?

Any car with no muffler will be loud. Any muffler will reduce your power 
somewhat. It's up to you to decide if you want to be a noise source. Some 
clubs really frown on noisey cars because they have to deal with noise 
ordinances at the various venues... Frankly, the right thing to do is to 
use some form of muffling, but it's up to you.

You can use various forms of muffling. The key is to make sure that the 
muffler does not restrict flow... for example, some types of "cherry 
bomb" mufflers have the pipe perferations pointed towards the exhaust 
stream... this is bad.

Supertrapps are kind of kool because you can tune them. Thus, you can be 
more or less quiet and you can tune for the best power by adding or 
removing discs at then end of the pipe. A lot of Autocrossers use 
Supertrapps.

> 5.  Does the pipe need to be welded or are muffler clamps good 
> enough?  Seems that they'd make it easier to remove things later on..

You should probably put a flange on the end of the header where it joins 
the rest of the pipe (and one on the pipe itself). This will allow you 
take the exhaust system apart if you want to remove the engine.

> 6.  Anything else I need to know? 

Probably a lot. The way to tune your system is to get some dyno time. If 
you can't afford that, you might want to get a G analyst and make several 
different length pipes and go to the drags and see where you get the best 
power...

Exhaust systems require some black art (pun intended) to get fully optimized.

Good luck, and there are several folks on this list that should provide 
you with meaningful suggestions.

> Thanks...
> Don Marshall
> '63 TR4 EP Autocrosser 

rml
TR6's
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