"R. Kastner" wrote:
>
> engage the groove and pull each lifter up off the camshaft but still in the
> bore of the block. I'd hold the grabber up with a clothes pin. This allowed
> us to change the camahfts or change the timing of the camshaft in about a
> half hour instead of three hours.-
That's a nice idea. Speaking of dynos, does anyone know of a source for
used ones at decent prices, or has anyone built their own? I've been
looking on the web at used industrial equipment sites, and used dynos
seem to almost never show up. Some of the on-car accelerometers seem to
be fairly accurate, but making internal changes with the engine in the
car can be a bit time-consuming. (!)
> Valves... I ground a 3/8" tool bit to
> the shape and used that in the lathe. Makes a single cut possible and easy
> to do. Be sure your cross slide is tight and you only have the overhang of
> tool just enough to do the job or you'll chatter on the valve head.
Cross slide is pretty snug, but it's not a large lathe (9" x 20"), which
makes any sort of hogging cut a bit dicey. <smile>
BTW, one of the things I've found is that one can put a nice swirl
polish on the valves by chucking the valve into the lathe, running the
chuck at about 300 rpm, and then using a Dremel or a die grinder with a
fine Cratex wheel on the head. Turns out very nicely and takes almost no
time at all, perhaps a minute or two a valve.
Cheers, and thanks.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
[mailto:mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
`86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
`68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)
Remember: Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.
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