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Re: water pump speeds

To: "John Price" <jprice1@txcyber.com>, <WEmery7451@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: water pump speeds
From: "R. Kastner" <kaskas@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:55:46 -0700
If you area using revs about 6500 or more then I figured that a 3 to 5 speed
was about right.  That is 3 for the water pump for 5 at the crank.  Work it
out depending on what pulleys are available.

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Price" <jprice1@txcyber.com>
To: "R. Kastner" <kaskas@earthlink.net>; <WEmery7451@aol.com>;
<mattspit@att.net>; <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: water pump speeds


> OK. I'm sold. What difference in size pulleys are we talking about? I'm
> looking at replacing my stock TR-6 pulley with an aluminum one anyway.
>
> John Price
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R. Kastner <kaskas@earthlink.net>
> To: WEmery7451@aol.com <WEmery7451@aol.com>; mattspit@att.net
> <mattspit@att.net>; fot@autox.team.net <fot@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: water pump speeds
>
>
> >The reason to restrict the flow is to increase or maintain the BLOCK
> >PRESSURE.  The block pressure is what eleminates the areas of steam
pockets
> >in the cylidner head that when ignored result in blown head gaskets etc.
> >Generally about 25 pounds block pressure is a good spot.  You will find
> with
> >the TR engines that the block pressure goes down as the revs go over 4000
> >because the system was designed for street use. Therefore the pressure is
> >going down just when you want it to be working the best. The cure is to
> SLOW
> >down the water pump by reducing the size of the driver pulley or
increasing
> >the size of the water pump pulley. This will stop the pump from
cavitating
> >and thus the pressure will stay constant at higher revs. A simple
pressure
> >gage with a line to the drain cock fitting in the side of the block will
> >give you a pressure number. While testing this on the dyno you could
watch
> >the pressure go from about 15 pounds right down to zero over the rev
range
> >of 6500. By the way you will also get a nice power increase from this
> little
> >mod.  Fitting Gilmer type belts and pulleys and with a GT-6 engine we had
a
> >power increse of 8 bhp. After that bit of info we did the same thing to
all
> >the engines.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <WEmery7451@aol.com>
> >To: <mattspit@att.net>; <fot@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 7:13 AM
> >Subject: Re: water pump speeds
> >
> >
> >> In a message dated 4/20/01 8:22:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >mattspit@att.net
> >> writes:
> >>
> >> << I remember a discussion on speed of water moving through radiators
and
> >>  whether it is better for it to move slow (more time to exchange) or
fast
> >>  (higher gradient).
> >>  There is an excellent discussion in June 2001 Circle Track. >>
> >>
> >> I will have to look for this article in my June issue.
> >>
> >> There is an optimum flow rate for every radiator -- not too fast and
not
> >too
> >> slow.  This rule also holds true for heat exchangers in power plants.
> >>
> >> The ancient practice for TR-3/4's was to install a restrictor washer in
> >place
> >> of the thermostat (opening, about the size of a quarter), use about a
15
> >psi
> >> cap, and eliminate the bypass flow.  All of the open areas around the
> >> radiator are then shrouded off with sheet metal or aluminum.  The
> overflow
> >is
> >> then connected by tubing to the top of a gallon lacquer thinner can
> (catch
> >> tank with a small vent hole in the top).
> >>
> >> I am sure that some of the list now have a better system than the one
> >above.
> >> I hope to eventually get an aluminum radiator.

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