Sounds like great fun. At this point you've got plenty of car to go fast
with, you just need some lessons. I suggest you hook up with Cascade
Sports Car Club
http://www.cascadescc.com/racing_dt.cfm and sign up for a road racing
class. It's the best $189 you'll ever spend. You can also do SCCA classes,
but they are not as instructor-intensive. You'll take at least 10 seconds
off your time between the first session of the morning and the last of the
afternoon.
You'd also find that race organization-sponsored test and tune days will
give you a lot of track time and exposure to people that are trying to
really go fast. Very different from club lapping days.
Once you have the rough edges off your technique, spend the $3500 to go to
one of the advanced classes with instrumented cars. You'll learn more in
three days there than you will in five years of racing.
I fully understand the pleasure of doing modifications like this--I have
to constantly discipline myself to keep my vintage racers somewhere within
shouting distance of the 1962 specs. But the best money you will spend is
on the interface between the steering wheel and the seat. From the specs
I'm sure your car as modified is capable of 1:40 or less at Pacific even
being driven at 8/10ths
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:chuck.arnold@oracle.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:17 PM
To: 6pack digest; FOT
Subject: Report on mods and performance
I have a TR6 that I did a lot of work to this year. I got it to the dyno
last week and dialed in these maximum results [though I think there is
definitely more there though more tweaking with the Weber jets].
Maximum HP at the wheels: 158 at 5500 and over 150 from 3000-6000 RPM]
Torque 170 at 4800 [pretty peaky, but over 150 from 3000-6500]
My modifications include:
Head ported and valves radiused, milled to 3.30 [12:1 or so] [PErformance
Automotive, Tacoma WA] Heavy duty springs Tubular push rods 1.55:1 roller
rockers [the above all from TSI] Triple Weber Carbs and Cannon Manifold
from British Parts NW [ended up with 140 mains, 60 idle jets] K&N air
filters Electromotive HMX crank fired electronic ignition [no more dizzy,
and knob tunable advance at 1000, 3000 and 8000 rpm [can roll off or
retard linearly from 3000-8000, but doing so with initial set at 16
degrees, 3000 at 32 degrees and 4 degrees of rolloff lowered HP to 148, so
set 8000 at 0 change from 3000 -- am using 101 Octane racing fuel]. Jet
Coated 6:1 header 2.5" single exhaust to a Flowmaster 50 series exhaust
and Monza Resonator [Summit] and local muffler shop Oil Cooler Balanced
engine .03 over pistons ARP head, rod and crank bolts Flywheel lightened
to 22 lbs [wish I'd seen this month's Grassroots Motorsports first and
read Vizzard's article on weight -- 12 lbs flywheel and smaller diameter
clutch = same as 320 lbs weight off the car] Electric Fan Mallory fuel
pump [and battery in the trunk] Oil Cooler Tilton .75 dual master
cylinders [with necessary balance bar welded to the brake pedal] -- think
these are too large as pedal pressure is high Herman Van Den Akker Toyota
5 speed with annular throwout bearing Goodparts 300Z viscous limited slip
kit [locally sourced 4.08:1 diff] --gearing change made for 112 mph at
6500 on the dyno so will need that 5th gear at Pacific Raceways
I use 16x7 Panasports with 205x50 Kuhmo Eksta V700's. Have tube shocks in
rear, a rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front anti-roll. Stiffest front
shocks I could buy and fairly stiff rear springs, Adjustable SPAX up
front, KYB's in the rear. Nylatron bushings. Toyota 4 Pot brakes to
vented rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads in front [bought the Kit on
EBAy from the Canadian], 7/8" rear brake cylinders to Carbotech Kealated
pads in the rear with Nissan 280Z aluminum finned drums. I have lowered
the spring perch in front about a quarter of an inch. Frame is about 2.5"
off ground in front.
I have aluminum front hubs on order.
Am investigating going to Nissan stub axles in the rear [anyone have any
TR experience with this -- how to fasten the bearing carrier to the
trailing arm is the issue.
First time on a track last weekend was good and bad. Good because the car
ran really well [and sounds awesome], bad because my shifter decided to
depart from the housing leaving me only 3rd gear during my second session.
Have new parts to fix the problem -- thank you Edward Hamer for the spring
retainer and Herman for the non obtanium shifter cap.
Car is very neutral, though I am pretty good at going too fast in some
turns, and quite bad at catching it, so I did manage one spin [at least I
now can catch those in time to keep from killing]. Hard to tell how much
faster it and I am. Know my times at Pacific last year were about 2
minutes flat. Am going there next weekend, so we will see what we can do
not [presuming I learn to keep it on the road at 5b -- spun twice there
last year].
Hope to get enough lap times/driving experience/training this year to
build a legal, competitive 6 for SOVERN vintage racing next year. [by by
tranny, diff and HMX], hello A type overdrive, electronic distributor and
Salisbury 4:11 expensive rear end, and of course the 16" rims [will keep
them all in this car and build another I think]
Chuck
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a
name of chuck.arnold.vcf]
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