Todd,
I have been racing and improving my TR3 for almost three years with lots
of help from the folks in this group. The biggest gains have been with
suspension and handling. I have not added rack and pinion steering and
don't plan to. Whether it's legal or not, you'd probably be better off
spending your money in other areas. Get the Southwick rear axle
conversion instead. The TR3 steering box is not bad if adjusted
properly. There are lots of excellent discussions in the archives on
suspension and handling. These cars like a very stiff front and almost
stock rear. Here is a summary of what most people do (someone please
correct me if I get some of this wrong):
1. Stiff front springs, many use MGBGT springs, which also give a
good ride height when the donuts are removed.
2. One inch anti-sway bar in front
3. 1 1/2 degrees negative camber by shortening the upper A arms by
about 1/2 inch
4. Check for bump steer. If necessary, eliminate by heating and
bending the steering levers.
5. The rear should be lowered, but otherwise stock. Use Ken
Gillander's rear spring locating kit
These cars can be very competitive, especially against other 1950's
vintage cars. The fastest TR3's in the country are faster than the
fastest TR4's, which suggests they can be made to handle better.
Although they have the disadvantage of a narrower track, I believe they
can be lowered more without the tires hitting the fenders. If you look
at photos of Mike Jackson's car in a hard turn, you'll see that the
front of the rear fender is only about one inch off the ground.
You're gonna have so much fun with this car, you'll want to ditch that
Alpha.
Larry Young
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