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Re: TR3 Frame (and other) work

To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR3 Frame (and other) work
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 20:51:20 -0500
Actually, you need both the later TR-4 upper A-arms and the matched lower 
trunnion to move from zero caster to 3 degrees caster.  So, you're both right.

To elaborate on the "southwick rear axle", a local shop called Southwick 
Engineering has engineered a way to use Ford rear axles in the stock TR-3 
or TR-4 rear end housing.  The stock setup breaks and causes the rear wheel 
to leave the car and the car to roll.  I've got in-car video of this on my 
website.  With the Ford axles, if they break at least the rear wheel stays 
on the car.  I'm unaware of anyone who has broken one of the re-engineered 
axles.  It's about $700 for the conversion and worth every penny.

The front hubs can also break.  One method to fix this is to purchase 
aftermarket aluminum hubs.  Another is to drill and tap the rotor mounting 
holes through the hub, run long rotor mounting bolts, and put spacers over 
the bolts between the inner and outer flanges of the hub.  Southwick made a 
run or two of aluminum hubs, but they are probably unavailable at this 
time.  Kastner's book mentions another source for similar front hubs, but I 
don't remember who that is offhand.

- Tony Drews
www.tonydrews.com

At 08:18 PM 9/6/2004, Fred & Mary Hodgson wrote:
>Larry -
>
>I think you meant TR-4 trunnions for the caster change.
>
>Fred Hodgson
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Larry Young
>Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 8:24 AM
>To: Todd Redmond
>Cc: fot@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: TR3 Frame (and other) work
>
>Todd,
>I forgot one other item.  The standard TR3 front suspension runs
>straight up.  Switching to TR4 upper A arms gives you a bit of caster (3
>degrees?) for improved stability.

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