The welded diff debate has occurred within this group
in the past. Some of us like it others do not.
It does require a different driving style. Stability of
attitude depends upon the throttle being screwed fully
down all the way thru the corner. Gotta pitch the thing
into the hairpins. Corner exit is pretty good. the fact that
something broke makes me think maybe you were not
going fast enough to unload the inside tire.
My old TR3 used to go thru slow corners with both inside
tires off the ground.
art de armond
----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE DEWEERD" <deweerdm@rogers.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 10:38 PM
Subject: [Fot] Hard cornering
> Hello list.
> I'm looking for any advice on how to get my TR4 to corner better. It seems
> to
> under-steer immensely.
> I am now in the process of changing front springs and shocks because as
> I
> put heat into the tires, the car would dive down when I turn the wheel to
> the
> left twice as much as when I turn to the right.(so I figured the left
> spring
> to be weak). I have no idea of the age of the shocks or springs.
> I find that when entering a tight turn the car will continue straight no
> matter how much I turn the wheel and when the car slows down enough the
> front
> will then turn quite quickly and I have to counter-steer (straighten) the
> wheel. This makes turns seem jerky and unsafe to other racers.
> I have a welded rear live axle. (which just broke in the last race) and I
> noticed my "new" front Hoosiers are pretty much done after 4 races while
> the
> back still look new.
> Now perhaps it's just me and I have to learn to drive slower into tight
> turns
> while the MGB's fly past me, or I need to look at something in the front
> end?
> the car has 1/16 th to 1/8 toe in. the steering rack is tight, it has poly
> bushing through out the front end
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated, Thank you
> Mike
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