What is the price on a Moldex these days?
On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote:
You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag
it. The
radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may
find that
after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank
and that
you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO
spend the
extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter
rods make a
very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not
regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which
destroyed
pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC)
FoT
I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do
everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing
it, then
shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding.
I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve
( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can.
I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also
heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to
the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the
opportunity
to try Chris's new rear main seal.
Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or
manufacturers?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim G
# 102
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Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25%
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc
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