Yes, expect 2-3 months, but the first time I bought they happened to have one
on the shelf, so i got lucky. The 2nd time it was 2-3 months. Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: Scott Janzen <s.janzen@comcast.net>
Cc: Joe Boruch <jaboruch@netzero.com>, 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC)
According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time.
Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ??
jg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen@comcast.net>
To: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.com>
Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
What is the price on a Moldex these days?
On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote:
You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B
it. B The
radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B
find that
after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B
and that
you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B
spend the
extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B
rods make a
very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not
regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B
destroyed
pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC)
FoT
I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do
everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B
it, then
shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding.
I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve
( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can.
I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also
heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to
the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B
opportunity
to try Chris's new rear main seal.
Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B
manufacturers?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim G
# 102
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