And nitride it to try and keep the crack from starting in the first place.
Chuck
> On Dec 6, 2013, at 11:39 AM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com> wrote:
>
> Unusual spot to break because the torque rises from front to rear. So the
> first spot to break is the rear end with the highest load.
>
> I'm a civil engineer, so I have a small clue about forces.
> If the crank has no flywheel and not pulleys, just the crank with rods and
> pistons it can freely bend on high load like a two field beam.
> A flywheel stops bending because the flywheel don't like to wobble, it
likes
> to run straight so the cranks rear end is forced to run straight, while the
> parts between the mains swing. That induce forces into the last counter
> weight and maybe lead to a crack.
> The same with a damper on front. It reduces the swing in the middle between
> main 1 and 2 but it rises the force on the counter weight.
>
> As a civil engineer I would say, let it swing and make the flywheel and
> clutch as light as possible and you get the most out of the crank.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von John Hasty
> Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Dezember 2013 15:54
> An: 'Michael Porter'; 'Randall'
> Cc: fot@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] aftermarket crank dampeners and pullies for TR4's
>
> For what it is worth, we got 10 race weekends on our last rebuild running a
> damper from BFE. The crank broke between # 1 rod and front main on last
> race, last lap, last turn while running 1st. in EP. I regularly turned
6500
> in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 6200 in OD. The motor always ran smooth with no
> vibration I could feel even with the front engine plate bolted directly to
> the frame
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