You are right with your statement but let me add this.
With nitrate hardening you insert nitrate to the surface to make it harder.
As you notice your bearings grow from that.
I cant explain it properly:
You get an pushing pressure along the surface. If the crank bends the
pulling pressure on the surface is delayed by the pushing pressure caused by
the hardening. You use the same affect with shot peening.
That makes the crank more resistant against cracks.
Simple, isnt it?
Cheers
Chris
Von: Tony and Annie Garmey [mailto:horizonracing@msn.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Dezember 2013 21:56
An: Chuck Gee; MadMarx
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Fot] aftermarket crank dampeners and pullies for TR4's
I may be incorrect here, but isn't nitriding a surface harding? It helps
with wear on the Bearing surfaces. The best precaution I have found
regardless if its a stock crank or billet, is making sure the radius at the
bearing Journals are as big a radi as you can. Even if you have to chamfer
the bearings. Shot penning a stock crank will also help smooth the edges.
Not Always, but a crack will start at a Corner or sharp edge.
Tony G.
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 11:59:23 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Fot] aftermarket crank dampeners and pullies for TR4's
>
> And nitride it to try and keep the crack from starting in the first place.
>
> Chuck
>
> > On Dec 6, 2013, at 11:39 AM, "MadMarx" <
> >
> > Unusual spot to break because the torque rises from front to rear. So
the
> > first spot to break is the rear end with the highest load.
> >
> > I'm a civil engineer, so I have a small clue about forces.
> > If the crank has no flywheel and not pulleys, just the crank with rods
and
> > pistons it can freely bend on high load like a two field beam.
> > A flywheel stops bending because the flywheel don't like to wobble, it
> likes
> > to run straight so the cranks rear end is forced to run straight, while
the
> > parts between the mains swing. That induce forces into the last counter
> > weight and maybe lead to a crack.
> > The same with a damper on front. It reduces the swing in the middle
between
> > main 1 and 2 but it rises the force on the counter weight.
> >
> > As a civil engineer I would say, let it swing and make the flywheel and
> > clutch as light as possible and you get the most out of the crank.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Chris
> >
> > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> > Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
> > Auftrag von John Hasty
> > Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Dezember 2013 15:54
> > An: 'Michael Porter'; 'Randall'
> > Betreff: Re: [Fot] aftermarket crank dampeners and pullies for TR4's
> >
> > For what it is worth, we got 10 race weekends on our last rebuild
running a
> > damper from BFE. The crank broke between # 1 rod and front main on last
> > race, last lap, last turn while running 1st. in EP. I regularly turned
> 6500
> > in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 6200 in OD. The motor always ran smooth with no
> > vibration I could feel even with the front engine plate bolted directly
to
> > the frame
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