I always remove the rotors and take them to the shop that cuts them. I've
looked at their lathe and I don't think it could do it while the rotors are
still attached to the hub, but I could be wrong. If you do this, do you also
remove the bearing race to avoid damage from the operation?
> On Sep 13, 2015, at 2:26 AM, Peter Vucinic <pvucinic@netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> Are you machining the rotors while they are still attached to the hubs?
>
> 0.010" run out will cause major pedal feel and steering feel issues. You
> want to aim for 0.003" TIR. You also need to check and make sure your pads
> are NOT wearing in a TAPER.
>
>
>
> "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With
> A Lage Fortune!"
> Kind Regards
> Peter Vucinic
> TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg And Alison
> Blake
> Sent: Sunday, 13 September 2015 8:43 AM
> To: FOT
> Subject: [Fot] Rotor runout
>
>
> My pads were pulsing pretty bad at the last race so I had the rotors turned
> at a shop I trust.
>
> Upon reinstall today I found that I had 0.010" of runout on the passenger
> side rotor. I repacked the bearings and I use the spacer kit which was setup
> with about 0.0005" of play. I was curious so I measured the runout on the
> uncle jack hub wheel flange and was surprised to find 0.003" of runout in
> the hub.
>
> On the driver's side, rotor was 0.003 and hub wheel flange was 0.0005".
>
> Did my shop just do a horrible job turning the one rotor? What kind of
> runout is spec for the uncle jack hubs? Is it possible that a wheel bearing
> race has gone wonky on the passenger side hub to cause the whole hub
> assemble to have the runout?
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
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