Does anyone have experience with APT nitrided cranks? They list a fully race
prepped and nitrided 6 cylinder crank at just under a grand.
Bob Kramer
rkramer3@austin.rr.com
---- Brian Schirano <bschirano@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 2 Cents from a modest built GT6 racer (IE 10:1 CR, stock rods, crank, Good
> GP3 cam, etc). Â Russ's comments are dead on - building the car is one
> expense, racing it is a recurring one and his estimate of $1000 per event is
> good. So build in margin of safety in the motor (and other components) where
> you can.
> aluminum flywheel and clutch & PP I went to Ted Shumaker, TSI - TS Imports
> RE the rods - at the time of my first (only) rebuild a couple years ago I
> couldn't afford carrillos or Pauters, but did spend some long green on
> nitriding and polishing the crank, balancing everything, and of course the
> ARP hardware everywhere that counts . My car is NOT a high rev machine, I
> self limit at 6200 - 6300 RPM and it seems all the straights are uphill so
> she never redlines there anywise!
> So to me, it can be done, but has to be consistent with the rest of your
> build. my next build will be a higher CR and hotter cam, so will be upgrading
> rods, and pistons as well. But the first build was built conservative for
> longevity.
> Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano
> 585-305-0349 CellÂ
> BSchirano@yahoo.com
> From: Spitfire Racing <spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com>
> To: 'Jamie' <tr6driver@yahoo.com>; 'McKearn McKearn' <mckearn2@gmail.com>
> Cc: 'FOT list' <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 9, 2015 8:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
>
> A properly built and modified race engine represents a mighty investment not
> only of dollars but of time. Is that really where you want to pinch pennies?
> After all, with the exception of pistons and crank that is one of the
> primary components and all it takes is one piece inside an engine to reduce
> all your work and investment to nothing more than scrap metal. One seized
> valve, or substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't take much.
> Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also at risk like a
> weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the cost of time off from
> work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and lodging for the race
> outing and the cost of just getting there. When asked, I usually advise
> folks to figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum when you roll all in.
>
> A number of racers have run Pauter rods as stated before by Bill and these
> do present a less expensive alternative. I had the opportunity to rebuild an
> engine last year with Pauter rods and they were quite substantial and were
> well designed, constructed and balanced. Personally I have seen far too many
> Chinese knock-offs; reproductions (call them what you will), that fail to
> come close to the parts they try to mimic.
> I suggest you perhaps delay your build until your war chest allows for top
> quality internals. Do it once and do it right the first time and reduce the
> potential for disappointing expensive disaster.
>
> Russ Moore
> Spitfire #49
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM
> To: McKearn McKearn
> Cc: FOT list
> Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
>
> Although I was initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000
> race miles in our (horror) MGB engine.
>
> Jamie Palmer
>
>
> > On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <mckearn2@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Gents.
> >Â Â I am looking for feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for GT6.
> Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are good. Also am still
> searching for an aluminum flywheel without having something custom made. and
> would like input on what type of clutch to use as well . Lets call it a race
> car for the sake of argument....
> >                Thanks. P.J.
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