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Hi, Jason:
The brakes on a GT6 are asked to do a lot. The car weighs about as much =
as a TR4, but it=E2=80=99s nose heavy and you run 13=E2=80=9D wheels, =
compared to the 15s on a TR. Smaller discs, less size to absorb heat =
and less ventilation. =20
That said, I=E2=80=99ve only had a seal fail once - summer race =
weekend, put the car on the trailer hot, and found brake fluid on the =
trailer floor when I got home. Calipers had not been rebuilt for a =
while. Since then, I try to repack wheel bearings and pop the pistons =
out of the calipers about every two weekends. When the seals have =
gotten a little crispy on the outside edge, I replace them. I just get =
the Moss rebuild kits, though Dave Bean Lotus on the west coast has =
something special that costs more. Not sure it=E2=80=99s worth it. I =
don=E2=80=99t bother with dust seals as they just melt.
I=E2=80=99ve rebuilt the same calipers over and over, use stainless =
steel pistons which I polish occasionally when they get scuffed. I =
never break the calipers apart. Bore condition really only has an =
effect on the piston wear, as the seal does not move in the bore. White =
Post tells me they do not re-sleeve caliper bores.
You might try brake ducting to bring the temp down a bit. Motul 600 is =
good, but I boiled it once on an enduro pit stop, and now use the =
ridiculously expensive Castrol Gold stuff.
See you at the races!
On Jul 20, 2019, at 10:01 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> =
wrote:
After two race weekends I have a leaky Girling 16pb caliper- Before the =
season, i rebuilt them with new pistons and seals, paying attention to =
carefully clean everything including the seal groves before assembly. =
The seal kit i used was branded TRW, Pistons are nitrided steel. Motul =
RBF600 fluid.
Could just be a fluke.....
Is there a particular brand of seals that hold up better to racing use? =20=
What sort of service life are others getting in-between rebuilds? =20
Jason
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen@me.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Hi, =
Jason:<div class=3D"">The brakes on a GT6 are asked to do a lot. =
The car weighs about as much as a TR4, but it=E2=80=99s nose heavy =
and you run 13=E2=80=9D wheels, compared to the 15s on a TR. =
Smaller discs, less size to absorb heat and less ventilation. =
</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">That =
said, I=E2=80=99ve only had a seal fail once - summer race =
weekend, put the car on the trailer hot, and found brake fluid on the =
trailer floor when I got home. Calipers had not been rebuilt for a =
while. Since then, I try to repack wheel bearings and pop the =
pistons out of the calipers about every two weekends. When the =
seals have gotten a little crispy on the outside edge, I replace them. =
I just get the Moss rebuild kits, though Dave Bean Lotus on the =
west coast has something special that costs more. Not sure it=E2=80=99=
s worth it. I don=E2=80=99t bother with dust seals as they just =
melt.</div><div class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve rebuilt the same calipers over =
and over, use stainless steel pistons which I polish occasionally when =
they get scuffed. I never break the calipers apart. Bore =
condition really only has an effect on the piston wear, as the seal does =
not move in the bore. White Post tells me they do not re-sleeve =
caliper bores.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">You might try brake ducting to bring the temp down a bit. =
Motul 600 is good, but I boiled it once on an enduro pit stop, and now =
use the ridiculously expensive Castrol Gold stuff.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">See you at the races!<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Jul 20, 2019, at 10:01 =
AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">After two race weekends I have a leaky Girling 16pb caliper- =
Before the season, i rebuilt them with new pistons and seals, paying =
attention to carefully clean everything including the seal groves before =
assembly. The seal kit i used was branded TRW, Pistons are =
nitrided steel. Motul RBF600 fluid.<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Could =
just be a fluke.....</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Is there a particular brand of seals that hold up better to =
racing use? </div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">What sort of service life =
are others getting in-between rebuilds? </div><div dir=3D"auto"=
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Jason</div></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen@me.com<br class=3D""><br=
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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