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Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...

To: Enquiries Road & Track <enquiries@roadandtrack.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...
From: Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:35:57 -0500
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <CA+UW8b24H+N4V60wNyWSK5UC2pc8PN3g+bOnmc9GPMKnX0wqkg@mail.gmail.com>
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Don=E2=80=99t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the sa=
me side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 th=
ing?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot <fot@autox.tea=
m.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the ri=
ght way and in number order?
>=20
> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the t=
unnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this w=
ill need a combination of feel and measurement
>=20
> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will cle=
arly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up
>=20
> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the fac=
es of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align h=
oned
>=20
> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move=
 the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the o=
ther, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing
>=20
> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the cas=
e, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them
>=20
> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, thi=
s is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the=
 tunnels
>=20
> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontra=
cting the job is not uncommon
>=20
> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cr=
oss-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contac=
t
>=20
>  Terry
> Australia
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>=
 wrote:
>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the or=
iginal main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I=E2=
=80=99ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there=E2=
=80=99s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and the=
y do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the r=
esult would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.
>> Certainly there=E2=80=99s a way to make this work but I haven=E2=80=99t f=
ound it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-bor=
ing to the the shop that said they couldn=E2=80=99t do it.=20
>>=20
>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I=E2=80=99ve heard that steel m=
ains might be an answer but they=E2=80=99d still have to be line-bored to ma=
ke them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassur=
ances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successful=
ly made main caps match the block? Given I=E2=80=99m spending a lot of time t=
hese days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured=
 it would be a good time to start building the next engine.
>>=20
>> Solutions or recommendations?
>>=20
>> Thanks
>> Bud
>>=20
>> =20
>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wro=
te:
>>>=20
>>> Amici,
>>>=20
>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected f=
or rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Imp=
act Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.=20
>>>=20
>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet=
, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if n=
eed be.
>>>=20
>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving=
 on the surface of each cap:
>>>=20
>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd
>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd
>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd
>>>=20
>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved=
 each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines d=
uring each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships.
>>>=20
>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very succ=
essful racer thinks.
>>>=20
>>> Thanks again Doug!
>>>=20
>>> <IMG_8745.jpg>
>>>=20
>>> Cheers,
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> Brad Eells
>>> Chino CA
>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3
>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4
>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>=20
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot=

>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi@c=
omcast.net
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>=20
>> Bud Rolofson
>>=20
>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
>>=20
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle=20
>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries@r=
oadandtrack.net.au
>>=20
>>=20
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56@gm=
ail.com
>=20
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Don=E2=80=99t all the main bearing caps go i=
n with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the=
 block? Or is that just a TR4 thing?<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iP=
hone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Mar 23, 2020, at=
 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road &amp; Track via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrot=
e:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=
=BF<div dir=3D"ltr">firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted=
 both round the right way and in number order?<div><br></div><div>you need t=
o decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is sim=
ply oval because&nbsp;the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will ne=
ed a combination of feel and measurement<br><div><br></div><div><div>if the a=
lternative&nbsp;caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly f=
eel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up<br></div><div><di=
v><br></div><div>if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths&nbsp;of a=
n inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, t=
hen it it is align honed</div><div><br></div><div>if it is really bad, like m=
any tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machinin=
g the register on 1 side and peening&nbsp;it on the other, and effectively m=
oving it sideways, followed by boring/honing</div><div><br></div><div>someti=
mes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its u=
sually easier to find some other caps or make them</div><div><br></div><div>=
if the tunnel is simply&nbsp;an&nbsp;oval because the cap is too far up or d=
own, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and rebo=
ring the tunnels</div><div><br></div><div>not all engine machine shop have a=
 line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon</div><=
div><br></div><div>the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a su=
per fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure&nbsp;perfec=
t bearing shell&nbsp;contact</div><div><br></div><div>&nbsp;Terry</div><div>=
Australia</div><div><br></div><div><div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-smartmail=3D"g=
mail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><br>=
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></di=
v></div><br></div></div></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolof=
son via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);paddin=
g-left:1ex"><div>Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to n=
ot have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the b=
lock but I=E2=80=99ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine th=
em so there=E2=80=99s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last b=
lock (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told=
 me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is=
 not good.<div>Certainly there=E2=80=99s a way to make this work but I haven=
=E2=80=99t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontr=
act line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn=E2=80=99t do it.&nbsp;=
</div><div><br></div><div>Has anyone else encountered this problem? I=E2=80=99=
ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they=E2=80=99d still have t=
o be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done b=
efore I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of=
 that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I=E2=80=99m spe=
nding a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects i=
n the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engi=
ne.</div><div><br></div><div>Solutions or recommendations?</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>Thanks</div><div>Bud<br><div><br></div><div>&nbsp;<br><div><blockquo=
te type=3D"cite"><div>On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>=
&gt; wrote:</div><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Amici,<div><br></div><div>In typi=
cally rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild,=
 I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench)=
 and then couldn't remember which way around they went.&nbsp;</div><div><br>=
</div><div>This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the ro=
ad. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determinati=
on if need be.</div><div><br></div><div>I was examining one of the caps when=
 I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap:<br><br>Eng #=
2 Front Fwd</div><div>Eng #2 Mid Fwd</div><div>Eng #2 Rr Fwd</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had en=
graved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 eng=
ines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships=
.</div><div><br></div><div>I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical=
 engineer and very successful&nbsp;racer thinks.</div><div><br></div><div>Th=
anks again Doug!</div><div><br></div><div><div><span id=3D"gmail-m_-34229842=
20944576185gmail-m_2395422064748517556cid:ii_k83wus460">&lt;IMG_8745.jpg&gt;=
</span><br></div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div><br></=
div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><font>Brad Eells</font></=
b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><font>Chino CA</font></b></div><d=
iv style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><font>#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3</fon=
t></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><font>#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4=
</font></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><font>1965 Triumph TR4A I=
RS...for the road!</font></b><br></div></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"=
><b><font><img src=3D"https://docs.google.com/uc?export=3Ddownload&amp;id=3D=
1HyYLxa1_Lz_Q0kLM3GRJryNDgfOwZyUc&amp;revid=3D0B9vVTDWaFCqFVmR6Q1FsMExZTHVLc=
Hpja3BpSC9ucGcveHdJPQ" width=3D"96" height=3D"94" data-unique-identifier=3D"=
"><br></font></b></div><div><br></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></=
div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br><a href=3D"mailto:fot@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br><a href=3D"http=
://www.fot-racing.com" target=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><b=
r>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; target=3D"_blank">http=
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ilman/options/fot/levilevi@comcast.net</a><br><br><br></div></blockquote></d=
iv><br><div>
Bud Rolofson<br><br>Extreme Parts Racing&nbsp;(more than just a haircut)<br>=
<br>71TR6 CC57365 (Good&nbsp;6)<br>71 Spitfire MK IV Race&nbsp;Car #3<br>69 S=
pitfire MK III (back&nbsp;up FE engine/dinghy car)<br>93 Minnie Winnie Race&=
nbsp;Support Vehicle&nbsp;<br>77 Z-50A Hardly&nbsp;Davidson Honda Mini-Trail=
 Bike (Triumph Pit&nbsp;Bike)

</div>
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</blockquote></div>
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