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Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...

To: van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be
Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...
From: vfracing--- via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:32:03 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
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Hi Marcel;
Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank cen=
terline is raised usually less than .005". =C2=A0Might affect cam timing a =
bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprock=
et.
However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. =C2=A0Would like to=
 know if there is a better solution.
Phil


-----Original Message-----
From: van.mulders.marcel <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
To: Phil Gott <vfracing@aol.com>
Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...

What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it?The chain tensio=
ners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, =
sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain=
 running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain wi=
ll have an influence on the ignition timing too.Has anyone tried an alterna=
tive solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet?Marcel
Van: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Aan: "Bob Kramer" <rkramer56@gmail.com>
Cc: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...

Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps=
 and saddles are always on the same side.=C2=A0In the TR wet sleeve engine,=
 each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix =
them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice =
to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had=
 a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Hollist=
on, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the s=
light raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of=
 the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC=
. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert fo=
r the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparen=
t when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the ar=
ea of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface,=
 as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold=
 correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. =C2=A0Be careful also not t=
o gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface =
of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil G=
ott

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote=
:



Don=E2=80=99t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the s=
ame side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 =
thing?

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot <fot@autox.team=
.net> wrote:



firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the rig=
ht way and in number order?
you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tu=
nnel is simply oval because=C2=A0the hole in in cap is too far up or down. =
this will need a combination of feel and measurement

if the alternative=C2=A0caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will=
 clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up

if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths=C2=A0of an inch, then the=
 faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is a=
lign honed
if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move =
the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening=C2=A0it on=
 the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing
sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case=
, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them
if the tunnel is simply=C2=A0an=C2=A0oval because the cap is too far up or =
down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and re=
boring the tunnels
not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontrac=
ting the job is not uncommon
the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cro=
ss-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure=C2=A0perfect bearing shell=
=C2=A0contact
=C2=A0TerryAustralia



On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> w=
rote:

Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the orig=
inal main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I=E2=
=80=99ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there=
=E2=80=99s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and=
 they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that=
 the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not go=
od.Certainly there=E2=80=99s a way to make this work but I haven=E2=80=99t =
found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-b=
oring to the the shop that said they couldn=E2=80=99t do it.=C2=A0
Has anyone else encountered this problem? I=E2=80=99ve heard that steel mai=
ns might be an answer but they=E2=80=99d still have to be line-bored to mak=
e them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassur=
ances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfu=
lly made main caps match the block? Given I=E2=80=99m spending a lot of tim=
e these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I fig=
ured it would be a good time to start building the next engine.
Solutions or recommendations?
ThanksBud

=C2=A0

On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
Amici,
In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for =
rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impac=
t Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.=C2=A0
This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I=
 had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if nee=
d be.
I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on=
 the surface of each cap:

Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd
Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved ea=
ch cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines dur=
ing each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships.
I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very success=
ful=C2=A0racer thinks.
Thanks again Doug!
<IMG_8745.jpg>

Cheers,

Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR419=
65 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!


_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
ast.net




Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing=C2=A0(more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good=C2=A06)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race=C2=A0Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back=C2=A0up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race=C2=A0Support Vehicle=C2=A0
77 Z-50A Hardly=C2=A0Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit=C2=A0Bike)
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
dandtrack.net.au



_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
il.com



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com




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arcel@telenet.be

------=_Part_1135369_868230972.1585053123498
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


<div style=3D"color:black;font: 10pt arial;">Hi Marcel;
<div><br>
</div>

<div>Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the cran=
k centerline is raised usually less than .005". &nbsp;Might affect cam timi=
ng a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier s=
procket.
<div><br>
</div>

<div>However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. &nbsp;Would li=
ke to know if there is a better solution.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Phil<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: van.mulders.marcel &lt;van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be&gt;<br>
To: Phil Gott &lt;vfracing@aol.com&gt;<br>
Cc: fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me...<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv4152820997">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
0pt;color:#000000;">
<div>What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it?</div>

<div>The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep groo=
ves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is=
 because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscilla=
tions of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too.</div>

<div>Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the=
 chain quiet?</div>

<div>Marcel</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<hr id=3D"yiv4152820997zwchr">
<div><b>Van: </b>"fot" &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br clear=3D"none"><b>Aan:=
 </b>"Bob Kramer" &lt;rkramer56@gmail.com&gt;<br clear=3D"none"><b>Cc: </b>=
"fot" &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br clear=3D"none"><b>Verzonden: </b>Dinsda=
g 24 maart 2020 12:47:41<br clear=3D"none"><b>Onderwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] Doug=
 Still Guides Me...<br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the=
 caps and saddles are always on the same side.&nbsp;
<div>In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so=
 it should be really hard to mix them up.</div>

<div>Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to =
mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.</div>

<div>I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT mac=
hine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, bo=
th due to the slight raising of the crank center line:</div>

<div>1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked t=
o be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.</div>

<div>2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main sea=
l may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the ce=
ntering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal wher=
e it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compr=
omise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of t=
he aftermarket rubber seals. &nbsp;Be careful also not to gouge the face of=
 the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go sl=
ow and be careful. It should all work as intended.</div>

<div>Phil Gott</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"><blockquote>On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 P=
M, Bob Kramer via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"><=
br clear=3D"none"></blockquote></div>
<blockquote>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Don=E2=80=99t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing=
 notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is=
 that just a TR4 thing?<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"><blockquote>On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM=
, Enquiries Road &amp; Track via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:<br c=
lear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></blockquote></div>
<blockquote>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted b=
oth round the right way and in number order?<br clear=3D"none">
<div>you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if t=
he tunnel is simply oval because&nbsp;the hole in in cap is too far up or d=
own. this will need a combination of feel and measurement<br clear=3D"none"=
><br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div>if the alternative&nbsp;caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you=
 will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up<b=
r clear=3D"none"></div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
<div>if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths&nbsp;of an inch, the=
n the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it=
 is align honed</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly =
move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening&nbsp;=
it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/hon=
ing</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the=
 case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>if the tunnel is simply&nbsp;an&nbsp;oval because the cap is too far u=
p or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces a=
nd reboring the tunnels</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subco=
ntracting the job is not uncommon</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone=
 (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure&nbsp;perfect bearing sh=
ell&nbsp;contact</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>&nbsp;Terry</div>

<div>Australia</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv4152820997gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv4152820997gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at =
1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"re=
ct" ymailto=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:=
fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"></d=
iv>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv4152820997gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb( 204 , 204 , 204 );padding-left:1ex;">
<div>Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the=
 original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but =
I=E2=80=99ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so th=
ere=E2=80=99s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (=
and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me t=
hat the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not=
 good.
<div>Certainly there=E2=80=99s a way to make this work but I haven=E2=80=99=
t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line=
-boring to the the shop that said they couldn=E2=80=99t do it.&nbsp;</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Has anyone else encountered this problem? I=E2=80=99ve heard that stee=
l mains might be an answer but they=E2=80=99d still have to be line-bored t=
o make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have re=
assurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has succ=
essfully made main caps match the block? Given I=E2=80=99m spending a lot o=
f time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop =
I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine.</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Solutions or recommendations?</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Thanks</div>

<div>Bud<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div>&nbsp;<br clear=3D"none">
<div><blockquote>
<div>On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener=
 noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D=
"_blank" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrot=
e:</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Amici,<br clear=3D"none">
<div>In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected=
 for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V =
Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.&nbsp;=
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Y=
et, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination i=
f need be.</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engravi=
ng on the surface of each cap:<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Eng #2 =
Front Fwd</div>

<div>Eng #2 Mid Fwd</div>

<div>Eng #2 Rr Fwd</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engrav=
ed each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engine=
s during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships.<=
/div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very su=
ccessful&nbsp;racer thinks.</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Thanks again Doug!</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div><span id=3D"yiv4152820997gmail-m_-3422984220944576185gmail-m_239542206=
4748517556cid:ii_k83wus460">&lt;IMG_8745.jpg&gt;</span><br clear=3D"none"><=
/div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>Cheers,</div>
<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b>Brad Eells</b></div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b>Chino CA</b></div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b>#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3</b></d=
iv>

<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b>#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4</b></div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b>1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!</=
b><br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;"><b><img width=3D"96" height=3D"94" src=3D"=
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=3Ddownload&amp;id=3D1HyYLxa1_Lz_Q0kLM3GRJ=
ryNDgfOwZyUc&amp;revid=3D0B9vVTDWaFCqFVmR6Q1FsMExZTHVLcHpja3BpSC9ucGcveHdJP=
Q"><br clear=3D"none"></b></div>
<br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

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</blockquote></div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
Bud Rolofson<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Extreme Parts Racing&nbsp=
;(more than just a haircut)<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">71TR6 CC57=
365 (Good&nbsp;6)<br clear=3D"none">71 Spitfire MK IV Race&nbsp;Car #3<br c=
lear=3D"none">69 Spitfire MK III (back&nbsp;up FE engine/dinghy car)<br cle=
ar=3D"none">93 Minnie Winnie Race&nbsp;Support Vehicle&nbsp;<br clear=3D"no=
ne">77 Z-50A Hardly&nbsp;Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit&nbsp;B=
ike)

</div>

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_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">fot@autox=
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