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Re: [Fot] Follow up on my lever shock question

To: Tony Sheach <tony.sheach@live.co.uk> definitions=2021-01-19_04:2021-01-18, 2021-01-19 signatures=0 malwarescore=0 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 spamscore=0 clxscore=1011 mlxscore=0 mlxlogscore=999 adultscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=8.0.1-2006250000 definitions=main-2101190086
Subject: Re: [Fot] Follow up on my lever shock question
From: Dave Connitt via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 09:13:46 -0500
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <DB7PR08MB34834A9B431BE9AD76465AA0C8A30@DB7PR08MB3483.eurprd08.prod.outlook.com>
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Tony and Bob,
Thanks for the additional information on the links and shock oil viscosity. I=
 will be taking a closer look at those links. Regarding the shock oil, I hav=
e found I can buy motorcycle fork oil in 10wt, 15wt and 20wt on Amazon. I ca=
n=E2=80=99t honestly remember what I put in mine when I restored them but I d=
o remember saving the bottle as I didn=E2=80=99t use it all. Another reason t=
o straighten up the garage!
I also wanted to mention that I had a interesting issue in the past years of=
 driving the car when the bolts holding the passenger side rear shock backed=
 out. The first time I started hearing a clunk in the back and when I remove=
d the passenger side rear wheel I found that one shock bolt was gone and the=
 other one was hanging on with about 2 threads left. I had used the original=
 bolts and flat washers to attach the shocks. I bought new grade 8 bolts and=
 split lock washers. The second time, I switched out the split lock washers f=
or internal tooth lock washers and put red Locktite on the bolt threads and t=
hey seem to be holding.  One other thing is that after I sand blasted the fr=
ame I welded in one of the TSI IRS differential frame gusset strengthening k=
its and also the front lower control arm gusset bracket kits.
I can=E2=80=99t explain why the passenger side rear shock bolts would come l=
oose but the Locktite and internal tooth lock washers seem to be holding.
Dave Connitt =20

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 19, 2021, at 8:20 AM, Tony Sheach via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrot=
e:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF Hi all
>=20
> There are a couple of other options in terms of lever arm dampers and also=
 I need to sling in a note of caution on filling them up with thicker oil.
>=20
> Firstly on other options, Armstrong also made a twin valve adjustable DAS1=
0 lever arm damper. These are more or less a straight bolt on with a little b=
it of relieving of the bracket on the 4a, more or less the same on the 250/5=
/6 but not don=E2=80=99t that for a long time. You can find them from time t=
o time on eBay but they are fairly expensive (circa =C2=A3700 for a decent p=
air) but they do give you 24 position adjustment via a big knurled knob on t=
he side (which is why you need to relieve the mounting a bit. Totally period=
 and legal for regulations including FIA if that=E2=80=99s relevant.
>=20
> It=E2=80=99s a different. Deal for the TR4 (and earlier cars) in the the s=
maller DAS9 was used, but you can also get twin valve and twin valve adjusta=
bles in that size which again are either a straight bolt on or with the adju=
stable you need to notch the chassis leg to accommodate the knob. The four f=
actory rally TR4=E2=80=99s (what we call 3VC, 4VC, 5VC and 6VC) all use DAS1=
0 rear shocks and custom mounts on the chassis, so that can also be done.
>=20
> Secondly, on oil you can use thicker oil but firstly it degrades over time=
 like any other oil and the hotter it gets, the faster this happens. Usually=
 the thicker the oil, the more heat the piston in the shock develops and the=
 hotter the whole thing gets, the more pressure there is inside until either=
 the seals blow or the piston sticks and holes the casing.  Been there and d=
one that, so my advice would be not to go mad. 20/50 engine oil or gearbox o=
il is definitely a no no.
>=20
> Best to all
>=20
> Tony
>=20
> Sent from my iPad
>=20
> On 19 Jan 2021, at 11:47, Robert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> One quick tip - the quality of the stock shock links available now is okay=
, but they won't stand up to a lot of abuse. I get maybe 3 seasons' use befo=
re they start to fail.
>=20
> I switched to the Goodparts rose-joint version last year or the year befor=
e and they hold up much better. I would argue that they are worth every penn=
y.
>=20
> Regards,
> Bob Lang
>=20
> On Monday, January 18, 2021, 6:08:24 PM EST, Dave Connitt via Fot <fot@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> Say,
> I just wanted to say =E2=80=9Cthanks=E2=80=9D to all that responded to my q=
uestion in rear lever vs. tube shocks. At least now I understand the trade o=
ffs better.
> This is a great group! I am going try changing the shock oil to something t=
hicker first but I am going to stay with lever shocks for sure.
> Now we just need some decent temperatures..
> Regards,
> Dave Connitt
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr=
6@yahoo.com
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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live.co.uk
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dconnitt@fus=
e.net
>=20
>=20

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Tony and Bob,<div>Thanks for the additional=
 information on the links and shock oil viscosity. I will be taking a closer=
 look at those links. Regarding the shock oil, I have found I can buy motorc=
ycle fork oil in 10wt, 15wt and 20wt on Amazon. I can=E2=80=99t honestly rem=
ember what I put in mine when I restored them but I do remember saving the b=
ottle as I didn=E2=80=99t use it all. Another reason to straighten up the ga=
rage!</div><div>I also wanted to mention that I had a interesting issue in t=
he past years of driving the car when the bolts holding the passenger side r=
ear shock backed out. The first time I started hearing a clunk in the back a=
nd when I removed the passenger side rear wheel I found that one shock bolt w=
as gone and the other one was hanging on with about 2 threads left. I had us=
ed the original bolts and flat washers to attach the shocks. I bought new gr=
ade 8 bolts and split lock washers. The second time, I switched out the spli=
t lock washers for internal tooth lock washers and put red Locktite on the b=
olt threads and they seem to be holding. &nbsp;One other thing is that after=
 I sand blasted the frame I welded in one of the TSI IRS differential frame g=
usset strengthening kits and also the front lower control arm gusset bracket=
 kits.</div><div>I can=E2=80=99t explain why the passenger side rear shock b=
olts would come loose but the Locktite and internal tooth lock washers seem t=
o be holding.</div><div>Dave Connitt &nbsp;</div><div><br><div dir=3D"ltr">S=
ent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Ja=
n 19, 2021, at 8:20 AM, Tony Sheach via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote=
:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=
=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">


Hi all
<div><br>
</div>
<div>There are a couple of other options in terms of lever arm dampers and a=
lso I need to sling in a note of caution on filling them up with thicker oil=
.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Firstly on other options, Armstrong also made a twin valve adjustable D=
AS10 lever arm damper. These are more or less a straight bolt on with a litt=
le bit of relieving of the bracket on the 4a, more or less the same on the 2=
50/5/6 but not don=E2=80=99t that for
 a long time. You can find them from time to time on eBay but they are fairl=
y expensive (circa =C2=A3700 for a decent pair) but they do give you 24 posi=
tion adjustment via a big knurled knob on the side (which is why you need to=
 relieve the mounting a bit. Totally
 period and legal for regulations including FIA if that=E2=80=99s relevant.<=
/div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>It=E2=80=99s a different. Deal for the TR4 (and earlier cars) in the th=
e smaller DAS9 was used, but you can also get twin valve and twin valve adju=
stables in that size which again are either a straight bolt on or with the a=
djustable you need to notch the chassis
 leg to accommodate the knob. The four factory rally TR4=E2=80=99s (what we c=
all 3VC, 4VC, 5VC and 6VC) all use DAS10 rear shocks and custom mounts on th=
e chassis, so that can also be done.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Secondly, on oil you can use thicker oil but firstly it degrades over t=
ime like any other oil and the hotter it gets, the faster this happens. Usua=
lly the thicker the oil, the more heat the piston in the shock develops and t=
he hotter the whole thing gets,
 the more pressure there is inside until either the seals blow or the piston=
 sticks and holes the casing. &nbsp;Been there and done that, so my advice w=
ould be not to go mad. 20/50 engine oil or gearbox oil is definitely a no no=
.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best to all</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Tony</div>
<div><br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
On 19 Jan 2021, at 11:47, Robert Lang via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wro=
te:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div class=3D"ydpbde90c14yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Ne=
ue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
<div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">One quick tip - the quality of the st=
ock shock links available now is okay, but they won't stand up to a lot of a=
buse. I get maybe 3 seasons' use before they start to fail.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I switched to the Goodparts rose-join=
t version last year or the year before and they hold up much better. I would=
 argue that they are worth every penny.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Regards,</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob Lang<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydp2bbafb70yahoo_quoted_1488418025" class=3D"ydp2bbafb70yahoo_quo=
ted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fon=
t-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div>On Monday, January 18, 2021, 6:08:24 PM EST, Dave Connitt via Fot &lt;f=
ot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Say,<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I just wanted to say =E2=80=9Cthanks=E2=80=9D to all that r=
esponded to my question in rear lever vs. tube shocks. At least now I unders=
tand the trade offs better.<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">This is a great group! I am going try changing the shock oi=
l to something thicker first but I am going to stay with lever shocks for su=
re.<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Now we just need some decent temperatures..<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Regards,<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Dave Connitt<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">_______________________________________________<br>
</div>
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