Why are you guys always looking for a conspiracy? This is some pretty basic
stuff here.
John Miller wrote:
> On Friday, February 28, 2003 22:21, Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Pretty simple isn't it. When you have the money they can have the car,
> > period
>
> You'd think so...
> ...the way people have gotten scammed was that when they had the "certified"
> check, they thought they had the money. And giving up some extra cash in
> addition to the car only adds insult to injury.
> --
> John Miller
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 04:37:17 EST
Subject: Possible Fraud
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 09:45:14 -0000
Subject: Re: Replacement badges
If you need anything more please do not hesitate to contact me.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <charles@therichcompany.com>
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 11:21 PM
Subject: Replacement badges
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> A fellow BJ8 owner and non-lister is looking for a good place to buy some
> replacement emblems (Healey wings nose badge, fender spears, and trunk
3000
> emblem and flash). Does anyone have any recent experience with the
suppliers
> of these items? Recommendations for sources to use and to avoid?
>
> Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 05:26:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 06:34:23 -0600
Subject: badges and stuff for Healeys
They are pretty nice metal frames with good engraving quality on the plastic
lettering strips.
They would sell for about $15 each plus shipping if I can order 100 of them in
a batch.
E-mail me off list if you are interested. I don't expect to make any money off
of this deal but I will do it if I see there is a demand.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 07:39:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
> Come on. We are talking about a wire transfer. If the bank says you have the
> money in your account, you have it.
You're mostly right, Bob. Yes, when the bank says you have the money, you have
it. You might not, however, have it the next day. If you don't believe it,
send
me your account number and your SSN (for verification) and watch what I could do
from a cow pasture in western Missouri. As a bonus, throw in a couple of credit
card numbers with it. Then I'll send you my BJ8. See how this works?
> Why are you guys always looking for a conspiracy? This is some pretty basic
> stuff here.
Conspiracy? Yes, that's pretty accurate and, yes, it is pretty basic. Give
someone in Nigeria your account number and your money goes away--nothing more
basic than that.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 09:02:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
Sorry -- you may have been, but others wasn't. They were talking about the
notorious "certified check" scam, where you give up the car, AND thousands of
dollars in change, later to find that the check you're holding is no good.
There is also wire transfer scam, too, where you don't give up the car or
give back any change -- you just find find that your account has been drained
by wire.
Now, if you think these are the rantings of conspiracy believers, I'd like to
buy your car. You can name your price. My associate, Mr. Mbumwe, will be in
touch with you shortly.
Motor Trend had a piece on this recently, and here's a link to more
information:
http://www.axiusnews.com/cboard2/viewreplies.asp?cbid=1&tid=14
--
John Miller
Any philosophy that can be put in a nutshell belongs there.
-- Sydney J. Harris
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 09:42:20 EST
Subject: SCAM SCAM
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From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 09:46:13 EST
Subject: Tudor Washer Bottle
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 10:47:47 -0500
Subject: Ammeter Installation
The wire that needs to be interrupted and routed in/out of your cockpit
is
the brown wire (N) that presently goes from the battery connection at the
starter solenoid to terminal B on the control box. What I did on my BJ8 was
remove the wire from the starter and construct a separate cable with a new
eye lug to go onto the solenoid. Then I bolted two eye lugs together for the
"return," and insulated them thoroughly. I prefer closed eye lugs as opposed
to open-end spade lugs because they can't slip off.
I also prefer using high-temperature glass insulated wire, and
high-temperature glass-tape (i.e. Scotch Type 27 or Scotch 92) for my
under-the-bonnet high-current wiring and insulating.
You can get such wire from people who install fire alarm systems (maybe a
burglar alarm shop would have some). If not, let me know and I'll ship you
some white wire from my stash (if you like the color then you pay the
shipping). I can take a photo of the wire and send it to you if you like. My
wire is rated for 105 degrees C (220 F), and is #12 stranded (nice and
flexible). It's Belden "appliance wire" Type 5048.
Use the heaviest wire possible, and pass it through the firewall using a
rubber grommet. On my BJ8 I recall that I had to double-up the wire, making
my own custom cable, because what I had on hand wasn't heavy enough.
Yes, it's only going to handle a few amperes, because when the system is in
balance, the meter will be a tad on the positive side, indicating a trickle
charge to your battery and a properly operating dynamo and control box.
However, if you have an electrical system failure, then the wire will be
called upon to handle more current. Also, in any case, you want to ensure
low voltage drops (IR drops) along the way.
The Smiths 30-0-30 instrument that you have there is ideal. Until I finish
my Hall effect project I wouldn't mind finding one of those!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
PS - I'll CC the list in case anyone else is interested in our exchange.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon [mailto:J8218@Hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 7:56 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net
Subject: RE: Ammeter Installation
Alex,
Thanks for the reply. I while back I read a book on electrical systems
when I was trying to decide if I wanted to stay with my generator system
or move to an alternator. I was surprised to find the author of the
opinion that the generator based system was just as capable if you did
not wish to add a lot of new devices, such as a CD player. Since I am
generally happy which the electrical setup and I do want to add any
devices, I want to add the ammeter to keep an eye on the system. I
re-wired my sprite and did not kill myself (it is still working well 10
years later) and I think with a little guidance I can install the
ammeter safely as well. You are correct about the connections on the
meter. Attached is a picture of the back of the meter. Is a 30-0-30
range ok for a standard BJ7? What gauge wire so I need to use? Where
is the safest/most effective place to make the connections? Your time
is greatly appreciated.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@adelphia.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 8:17 PM
To: Jonathan Giles
Subject: RE: Ammeter Installation
Hi Jon:
Good to hear from you. No protocol apologies needed---not with this fine
group.
I'm still awaiting my engineering samples of the Hall effect sensors I
plan to use, so I have been working on other projects around here and
regretfully have made zip progress on the ammeter project. However, I
*will* get to it!
In the meantime, I can say that I had a standard ammeter on my BJ8, and
it's easy to install, BUT you must realize that ALL of the current
demanded by the car---with the exception of the starter motor---goes
through that meter. That means that you absolutely must use heavy wire
coming from the cockpit and going back to the cockpit through the
firewall. If you're squeamish about electrical wiring, I wouldn't advise
installing one.
If you feel comfortable routing heavy, well-insulated stranded wire, I'd
go ahead and do it. An ammeter is great for seeing how a generator and
regulator box is working. A voltmeter is useful too, and much easier to
hook up, but it's more meaningful in an alternator-based system.
Also, ALL standard DC ammeters MUST, by definition, have two terminals.
Can you send me a JPEG photo of the back of the instrument that you have
there? I think the single wire you mention is just for the illumination.
The HEAVY current must flow into and out of the ammeter through big
screw terminals.
If you like, I can describe how to install the meter, where to cut and
route on your Healey, etc.
Your pleasure?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 08:25:31 -0800
Subject: Patterns for Heat Shields
A question for the collective:
Has anyone documented the heat shield dimensions??
I did a stupid, and threw away all my heat shields, except the one under
the floor pan, in a rush to get rid of the asbestos. Now I'm ready for
new, and would like to use the hardybacker type material, but I don't
have the dimensions. Rather than guess, I'd like to make them as close
to original as possible.
Any help appreciated.
Jerry Rude
BJ8 MkIII Ph2
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 11:15:08 EST
Subject: Re: King Pins
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 10:32:54 -0700
Subject: Colorado Red and Farewell (aka - drive or concours)
1. Colorado Red - I have an up and coming Colorado Red BJ8. In lieu of
finding the correct code, the guy painting my car matched the original paint
(from under the dash and in the boot) perfectly. It comes up close to a
milli miglia red and a Land Rover red, and is not very orange. She'll be
shart in red / black. We did this in a base color / clear application.
2. As for the Farewell to the list thread (aka drive or concours) ... I am
excited to be working in my BJ8. I hope to have her done in the early to
mid summer.... the interior is with Duncan at Heritage at the moment (Black
leather with red piping), final paint will go on her soon (she goes into the
shop on the 10th), and I will relish the final assembly (all other
components rebuilt and tested). She may not be a 100% concours car, but
will have everything rebuilt like or similar to new .... To me, I could
spend my spare time restoring old cars or building wooden boats all the
time. I will be sad when she is done... but... given that I plan to drive
the hell out of her and have a great time (and mind you take care of her)..
I will look forward to the day of either restoring her again (which would be
easy considering what I've done on her presently) or selling her and buying
another car to restore (I have a great desire to restore a bugeye in healey
blue, wire wheres with a wild engine - first car syndrome) ... so since
any vehicle that is restored, driven and taken care of can readily restored
again... I cetainly advocate 'enjoy the restoration (it is fun) drive 'em
hard and have fun... then enjoy restoring them again....
So much for philosophy..
Cheers....
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 BRG Mini Cooper S (The boat landed in CA today - hopefully pick her up in
2 weeks)
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 13:53:47 -0500
Subject: torque settings
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 10:34:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
The guy I bought my Healey from last summer drove it about 1200 miles in 10
years. It was very nice of him to preserve it for me to enjoy! I doubled
the mileage in the first month of ownership. Well, it's sunny out now so I
think I'll go for a drive.
See Ya!
John
>From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
>Reply-To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
>To: William.Moyer@millersville.edu, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
>Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 05:26:52 -0600
>
>bill,
>if you are only putting a few hundred miles per year on your healey, you
>are missing out on a lot of adventures !! "farewell to the list" never had
>his priorities straight.
>William Moyer wrote:
> >
> > I'm reminded of what the guy who did my restoration said about selling
>the
> > car we were restoring, and I was there for every hour he was there, me
>doing
> > the grunt work. He said, "Some day a guy is going to walk up to you
>with a
> > big smile and a large roll of hundred dollar bills and offer to buy
>this
> > car. Pay very close attention to the look in his eyes. If you sell
>the car
> > you'll have the money and that same look on your face the next time you
>see
> > a Healey."
> >
> > I've thought about selling. I only put a couple hundred miles a year
>on it
> > now, ten years after the "finish" date. Why not actually make a
>profit,
> > which I could easily do. Buy a nice bugeye, which my wife would love,
>and
> > have a lot of change.
> >
> > Can't do it. Don't want the "look".
> >
> > Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as Chimera
>
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 10:41:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Farewell to the List
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Peak
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:35 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
Jerry and list,
The guy I bought my Healey from last summer drove it about 1200 miles in 10
years. It was very nice of him to preserve it for me to enjoy! I doubled
the mileage in the first month of ownership. Well, it's sunny out now so I
think I'll go for a drive.
See Ya!
John
>From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
>Reply-To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
>To: William.Moyer@millersville.edu, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
>Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 05:26:52 -0600
>
>bill,
>if you are only putting a few hundred miles per year on your healey, you
>are missing out on a lot of adventures !! "farewell to the list" never had
>his priorities straight.
>William Moyer wrote:
> >
> > I'm reminded of what the guy who did my restoration said about selling
>the
> > car we were restoring, and I was there for every hour he was there, me
>doing
> > the grunt work. He said, "Some day a guy is going to walk up to you
>with a
> > big smile and a large roll of hundred dollar bills and offer to buy
>this
> > car. Pay very close attention to the look in his eyes. If you sell
>the car
> > you'll have the money and that same look on your face the next time you
>see
> > a Healey."
> >
> > I've thought about selling. I only put a couple hundred miles a year
>on it
> > now, ten years after the "finish" date. Why not actually make a
>profit,
> > which I could easily do. Buy a nice bugeye, which my wife would love,
>and
> > have a lot of change.
> >
> > Can't do it. Don't want the "look".
> >
> > Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as Chimera
>
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 14:38:43 -0500
Subject: Resistance soldering
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 13:15:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Farewell to the List
After putting that much time and money in it I
couldn't wait to drive the heck out of it--which I
do---when I'm not driving the Healey:)
Hell----I'm going to get my money back in the
enjoyment of driving.
I think sometimes some folks get trapped into "having"
to spend too much time and money in a resto, and then
start getting the urge to get their money back--well
some of it----the only way they can and that is to not
drive it so they can get the top $$. Such a shame
actually. Two years ago I spent $14K on my driver
Healey just to enhance the safety and reliability of
it so I could enjoy driving it even more. That's when
I took it to Europe for 47 days.
In Pittsburgh where we cannot get them out yet----but
just around the corner.
Tom
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From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 22:09:29 -0000
Subject: Colorado alternatives
Regards.............Alan
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from Moss. I just checked and have a possible helpful update for everyone
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 17:11:59 -0500
Subject: Kingpins redux
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:16:11 -0500
Subject: Re: King Pins
At 11:15 AM 3/1/2003 -0500, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>Listers
>Anybody know what the mode of failure is on the supposed bad batch of king
>pins? I'm having trouble envisioning an "instantaneous" king pin failure that
>will cause a catastrophic event. I have broken a lot of parts over the years
>but not a king pin. Maybe you folks have thought this through already.
>Aloha
>Perry
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@mediaone.net )
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 17:44:22 EST
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
> Hell----I'm going to get my money back in the enjoyment of driving.
This summer I drove out from MD. to Tahoe, then headed down toward LA--in
Morro Bay my second gear cluster broke and I made it down to Thousand Oaks
where I purchased a Smitty's five-speed conversion, a rebuilt tranny and did
the dirty deed.
When I got down to Los Angeles my son asked me how much all that cost me.
"Steven", I said, "It didn't cost me a thing but it cost YOU alot." In the
end, if I die before the car does, he might see the benefit. In the meantime
I'd till rather have the $$ in the car than the market!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 14:55:59 -0800
Subject: knob on window winder BJ8
Q. Is an open end knob "correct" or is the closed solid type I broke
correct?
Q. Does anyone know where I can get just the black knob or alternatively the
window winder arm with the solid black knob?
Thanks as always...
Ron
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 15:49:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Farewell to the List
Exactly!!
I took my 67 BJ8 to a local informal meet this morning and except for the $6
million, yes $million 1932 Alpha Romeo,
I generated more interest than the other 150 muscle cars :-) and I've only
got a 7 footer.
Just another 70 degree southern california sunny winter's day....
Ron
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 16:29:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
rdavies wrote:
> Exactly!!
> I took my 67 BJ8 to a local informal meet this morning and except for the $6
> million, yes $million 1932 Alpha Romeo,
> I generated more interest than the other 150 muscle cars :-) and I've only
> got a 7 footer.
> Ron
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 19:36:31 -0500
Subject: RE: torque settings
Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
>Hi everybody needing something to do so I plan on changing my thermostate from
>a 160 to a192 and I need to re-torque my head can anybody send me the torque
>setting that I can understand.Also i`m going to change to electronic
>ignition(pertronix)and coil for my 58bn4 distributor # DM6A Thanks Steve
__________________________________________________________________
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 18:38:11 -0600
Subject: Re: knob on window winder BJ8
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:50:48 -0800
Subject: Rich Fuel Mixture
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 20:53:53 EST
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
> I heard second hand that Jay Leno
> said he has his cars built up to original specifications and then drives
> the hell out of them until they need to be redone again. It's true he
> has the means to do this with a whole stable of fine automobiles but the
> sentiment is one I can relate to.
>
>
I have some first-hand knowledge of Jay Leno's attitudes towards cars. He has
the most jaw-dropping amazing collection of cars imaginable, ranging from a
Mercer Runabout to an MG Midget and every single one of them can be started
up and driven on a moment's notice. In fact, on a typical day he drives from
home to his garages near the Burbank airport, picks up one of his cars, then
drives it to the NBC studio in Anaheim where he does his show, then drives
back to the garage. He'll usually spend a few hours at the garage working
with his crew on whatever projects they have underway at the time before
heading home. On Sundays, as many car hobbyists in the LA area can attest,
he'll frequently take the appropriate car out of the collection, whether it's
a Hudson Hornet, a Stanley Steamer, or the Merlin-engined Rolls, and drive it
to whatever car meet is going on in order to share the car with folks who
will appreciate it as much as he does. He believes that cars are meant to
be enjoyed, but enjoying them means driving them. Once they reach a state
where they're showing a little road wear, they're put back to original
condition again. (or maybe not so original; one of the cars in his
restoration shop right now is a big fifties Buick with a relatively new
Corvette powertrain underneath.)
Sure, there's an unbelievable amount of money represented by the collection,
but the important thing is that his own time is invested in the restoration
and maintenance of the cars, so that he can use them.
Incidentally, if you saw a big LaFrance fire engine from the forties/fifties
cruising around Burbank this morning, that was Jay driving-- his latest
project is a fire engine that had been abandoned at the back of the Burbank
Airport for many years, which he has just finished restoring. Where the hose
bin would have been, there is a rack for a motorcycle, and the rear gate
opens in two sections then lowers to load and unload the cycle. Otherwise,
it's completely original.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 21:04:43 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Was:=A0=20Re:=20Colorado=20colour=20match;=20?=
> Not to put too fine a definition on it, but for BJ8s, at least, the white
> factory colo(u)r is always called Ivory White on the BMIHT certificates,
> not
> Olde English White. I don't know about the earlier models.
>
As an editor, I will put a fine point on it. The latter color, which is the
accurate name for the color on earlier cars, is OLD (no silly antique
Curiousity Shop spelling with the superfluous E, please) English White.
Incidentally, from everything we've read or been able to find in our
research, Old English White and Ivory White are one and the same shade. The
name was changed to protect the innocent, I mean, for marketing purposes.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 06:54:04 -0800
Subject: Good deal??
When I visited the shop that is just finishing the body/paint on my BN7 MK2,
the owner mentioned that another of his customers wants to sell a Healey that
has been sitting in his shop since about 2/02. I glanced casually at it
months ago. Some of the body work is done. The shop has receipts for $4800
worth of engine work, the suspension has been rebuilt. The car is a BJ8.
I have absolutely no financial interest, or other interest in this car, as I
only do BN7 and BT7 cars. This is a top notch shop. Example: one of his
other customers has a '31 dual cowl Chrysler Phaeton, a '31 Chrysler 4 door
sedan, and a hot Pantera in there at the same time (yes, this is an expensive
shop w/ high dollar customers...unfortunately, I am not a high dollar
customer, but my car is turning out magnificent...long story) .
The shop is in Vancouver, WA (just north of Portland, OR). the owner of the
shop says the Healey owner wants $9,000 to bail out.
If you are interested, not just curious, contact me off List, and I will put
you in touch w/ the shop owner. He does not use email, and his only interest
is in turning out beautiful cars.
John Snyder
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 22:11:44 -0500
Subject: Fire trucks, was farewell to the list
One day last fall the phone rang. It was Jay Leno saying that his crew was
working on a fire truck and would Andy bring his wife and come out the LA to
oversee the project. Of course it was all expenses paid for both of them so
how could he refuse. So, off they went and he says that Jay is one of the
nicest fellows he has ever met. Being from Maine, the home of the Stanley
Steamer, they took that out for a little spin. Andy told Jay that he had a
friend that lived in the area that was a steam lover so Jay pulled out his
cell phone and said call him up and we will drop over for a visit and they
did. It was a great trip and Andy says that he has an incredible shop and a
crew that works full time on his cars. It's great to see someone with that
kind of money spend it so wisely. Don't you agree? Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 21:21:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Ammeter Installation
When you wire the ammeter in series, as those POSs are, all of the power for
ignition, lighting , accessories etc. (except the starter) is routed through the
ammeter. If at any time you experience a catastrophic loss of power to all of
these
functions at once the ammeter is the first suspect. The wire loop in the one I
had
just up and selected a dark rainy night at random and expelled all of its smoke.
Does Smiths make an ammeter that uses an induction coil for sensing?
Bill Lawrence
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 22:47:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
I "finished" my 100 in May of 02 and promptly drove it to the Glenwood Springs
Rallye (1,300 MILES), then to the Lake Tahoe event (2,500 MILES +), then from
Albuquerque to Des
Moines, IA and back (2,000 MILES +). In addition I have used it as a daily
driver up until it was struck in traffic in November. I figure, the speedo
cable having crapped out
about 200 miles south of Des moines, I have logged nearly 10,000 miles on it
since May. Thats including the two months I let her languish in the garage
because I was too
heartsick to look at the damage to her formerly beautiful hind quarters.
I have been forced into many things in my life, but nothing so agreeable as
building and driving my Healey.
Bill Lawrence
Jerry Wall wrote:
> bill,
> if you are only putting a few hundred miles per year on your healey, you are
>missing out on a lot of adventures !! "farewell to the list" never had his
>priorities straight.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 06:56:08 -0600
Subject: Re:
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 08:36:35 -0500
Subject: Waiting for a Golden Goose (was farewell)
Yes folks, and I can tell you first-hand that whether you own a fleet of
classic cars, or only a few, there's no replacement for that $100,000,000
smile planted on your face while driving it down the road.....whether you've
spent $100k, $50k, or $1k on a restoration. They all provide fun value that
can't be measured by monitary means as far as I'm concerned. I've had just
as much fun in my rough but ready $2,000 British car as I've had driving my
$15,000 British car. It's just too bad some have to cost so much more than
others, but they all offer a very big bang for the buck. If you spend oodles
of greenbacks restoring your car, you just need to make sure that you drive
the **** out of it to get your money out of it. If you spend oodles of money
on a restoration, then park it under a clean and fluffy dust cover waiting
for a golden goose to land on your lap, then who's the......uh, hmm, well, I
better not say it.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
snip........I have some first-hand knowledge of Jay Leno's attitudes towards
cars. He has the most jaw-dropping amazing collection of cars imaginable,
ranging from a
Mercer Runabout to an MG Midget and every single one of them can be started
up and driven on a moment's notice. In fact, on a typical day he drives from
home to his garages near the Burbank airport, picks up one of his cars, then
drives it to the NBC studio in Anaheim where he does his show........snip
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 07:55:30 -0600
Subject: Rocker bushing tightness
How tight should the rockers be, after reaming to fit the shaft? Should
they 1-move easily, 2-move with firm pressure, or 3-kinda tight?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 10:22:57 EST
Subject: Now: OEW
Best,
Richard
In a message dated 03/02/2003 5:59:48 AM Mountain Standard Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
> the parts manual for the BN6 says WT3 is Ivory White. no olde, no old and
> no english.
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >In a message dated 2/28/03 5:51:29 PM, sbyers@ec.rr.com writes:
> >
> >
> >>Not to put too fine a definition on it, but for BJ8s, at least, the white
> >>factory colo(u)r is always called Ivory White on the BMIHT certificates,
> >>not
> >>Olde English White. I don't know about the earlier models.
> >>
> >
> >As an editor, I will put a fine point on it. The latter color, which is
> the
> >accurate name for the color on earlier cars, is OLD (no silly antique
> >Curiousity Shop spelling with the superfluous E, please) English White.
> >Incidentally, from everything we've read or been able to find in our
> >research, Old English White and Ivory White are one and the same shade.
> The
> >name was changed to protect the innocent, I mean, for marketing purposes.
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 11:12:04 -0500
Subject: re;torque settings
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 11:51:40 -0500
Subject: re; torque setting
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 10:34:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Now: OEW
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 09:25:13 -0800
Subject: RE: Patterns for Heat Shields
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi all,
>
> A question for the collective:
>
> Has anyone documented the heat shield dimensions??
>
> I did a stupid, and threw away all my heat shields, except the one under
> the floor pan, in a rush to get rid of the asbestos. Now I'm ready for
> new, and would like to use the hardybacker type material, but I don't
> have the dimensions. Rather than guess, I'd like to make them as close
> to original as possible.
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Jerry Rude
> BJ8 MkIII Ph2
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 12:58:44 -0500
Subject: Many Thanks
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 09:57:36 -0800
Subject: RE: re;torque settings
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> can somebody pleas send me a list of all the torque setting for
> my 100-6 Thanks Steve
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 12:56:23 -0500
Subject: RE: Ammeter Installation
If it were my meter in hand, I would check that prior to choosing it. If it
required a shunt, I wouldn't use it, as installing a shunt means that very
low values of shunt resistance will be needed, and connection resistance
(how tight the terminals are, for example) will alter the accuracy of the
meter. Yuk.
BTW, I rarely use shunts in most of my metering projects here, which is why
I'm working on a Hall effect sensor for automotive current-sensing
applications.
But, FYI Ed, where I can tolerate a small inherent burden, I use series
resistors and measure the *voltage* across them, calibrating a sensitive
milliammeter or microammeter with a multiplier potentiometer. But that's for
another venue.
However, Jon may wish to check that his meter does or doesn't require a
shunt. Do any list members know the characteristics of the Smiths ammeter
that he has there? I have never seen an automotive ammeter with an external
shunt, except one mounted on the back of the meter itself (which I would
consider "internal," and not of consequence).
Also, I have found that #12 wire is sufficient to handle the headlamp load,
fuel pump, horn current, etc. It's good for at least 20 Amperes, and this
application is a very, very short length of wire. If more "headroom" is
deemed necessary, then heavier (or multiple parallel) conductors can do the
trick, as I originally stated.
It worked for me on my BJ8, handling the standard load plus my driving
lights and air horns, and was trouble-free for ten years. No smoke, that's
for sure.
What is the conductor size of the existing wire feeding the regulator? I'd
go look, but my BT7 is in winter hibernation. I don't think it's heavier
than #12, although it might be 10-gauge.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: justbrits [mailto:justbrits@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 11:22 AM
To: Alex; 'Jon'
Subject: Re: Ammeter Installation
Gents:
<<The Smiths 30-0-30 instrument that you have there is ideal.>>
Maybe, maybe NOT.
You HAVE to know for posative that the meter is INTERNAL or EXTRENAL shunt
type!!
You are describing a wiring system for an INTERNAL shunt one, Alex and that
REQUIRES the same size wire (or bigger) of the circuit you are
"interrupting"!! Less and wiring WILL "release the smoke"<G>!!
The meter WILL show exactly the generator AMP output all the time.
Therefore, when headlights turned on (higher draw on gen.) the meter WILL
show the higher reading which would not be "... it's only going to handle a
few amperes, ...".
Regards...........
Ed
(Ex-Elec. Designer for Ambulances, LD Rescue Vehicles and Mini Fire
Trucks)
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 13:09:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Ammeter Installation
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 11:22 PM
To: Alex
Cc: 'Jon'; Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Ammeter Installation
One word of advice from experience gained while trying to maintain and drive
a "Brand
X" I won't name other than to say the name starts with a T and an R:
When you wire the ammeter in series, as those POSs are, all of the power for
ignition, lighting , accessories etc. (except the starter) is routed through
the
ammeter. If at any time you experience a catastrophic loss of power to all
of these
functions at once the ammeter is the first suspect. The wire loop in the one
I had
just up and selected a dark rainy night at random and expelled all of its
smoke.
Does Smiths make an ammeter that uses an induction coil for sensing?
Bill Lawrence
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 10:21:01 -0800
Subject: Re: re;torque settings
Instead of trying to remember the .0833 formula, why not
divide the same by 12 (the number of inches in one foot)
to get foot pounds.
Much easier to remember.
Kirk :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
<stjepkem@optonline.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: re;torque settings
> Hi Steve,
> If you want to get lb.ft. measurements, multiply the lb.in. number in
> General Data of the manual by .0833
> Ex: Cyl head nuts 900lb.in. X .0833= 75lb.ft.
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > can somebody pleas send me a list of all the torque setting for
> > my 100-6 Thanks Steve
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 10:26:12 -0800
Subject: Waiting for a Golden Goose (was farewell)
Hi all,
Yes folks, and I can tell you first-hand that whether you own a fleet of
classic cars, or only a few, there's no replacement for that $100,000,000
smile planted on your face while driving it down the road.....whether you've
spent $100k, $50k, or $1k on a restoration. They all provide fun value that
can't be measured by monitary means as far as I'm concerned. I've had just
as much fun in my rough but ready $2,000 British car as I've had driving my
$15,000 British car. It's just too bad some have to cost so much more than
others, but they all offer a very big bang for the buck. If you spend oodles
of greenbacks restoring your car, you just need to make sure that you drive
the **** out of it to get your money out of it. If you spend oodles of money
on a restoration, then park it under a clean and fluffy dust cover waiting
for a golden goose to land on your lap, then who's the......uh, hmm, well, I
better not say it.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
snip........I have some first-hand knowledge of Jay Leno's attitudes towards
cars. He has the most jaw-dropping amazing collection of cars imaginable,
ranging from a
Mercer Runabout to an MG Midget and every single one of them can be started
up and driven on a moment's notice. In fact, on a typical day he drives from
home to his garages near the Burbank airport, picks up one of his cars, then
drives it to the NBC studio in Anaheim where he does his show........snip
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From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 15:43:00 -0000
Subject: Colorado Red
>1. Colorado Red - I have an up and coming Colorado Red BJ8. In lieu of
>finding the correct code, the guy painting my car matched the original
paint
>(from under the dash and in the boot) perfectly. It comes up close to a
>milli miglia red and a Land Rover red, and is not very orange.
There appear to be 8 Land Rover reds using 13 different names. Any chance
of something more specific such as Year, code or name? Also 'milli miglia'
is difficult to pin down without a manufacturer to go with it.
All input is useful and interesting.
It is appreciated.
AlanB - BN4 (now ready for frame jigging and painting)
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 16:37:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Hi Roger
In a message dated 03/02/2003 10:30:33 AM Mountain Standard Time,
stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
I want to hook it up to fuse box and install an inline fuse what size fuse is
needed it runs nice and smooth when it hook up this way. I want to protect what
i fix
Steve,
There is a very easy way to figure out the size fuse you'll need. First you
need to measure the fuel pump resistance. I think you'll find this to be about
5-6 ohms.
Then using Ohm's law E=iR
where E = voltage, i = current, and R = resistance
You see that for a 12 volt poser source, with 6 ohms resistance, you should
draw about 2 amps.
I would think a 5-amp fuse would be adequate.
However, it is important that you generally check over all your wiring. I've
never used an extra non-original fuse link onmy cars, and have not had burn-out
problems. The sources for trouble typically are:
1) bullet connectors not pushed fully into the ruber tube sockets, and thus
the ends of the bullets are exposed and can short out to nearby metal
2) Wires going by sharp metal edges (near the grille is one typically bad area)
and the insulation wearing through from vibration of the wire during driving.
Use grommets and clips to protect inslulation from edges of holes in sheet
metal and hold wiring firmly in place.
3) people not knowing that BLACK is the ground wire, and hooking up the lights
(especially the license plate light) incorrectly with the red wire to ground.
This creates an immediate short when the lights are turned on and will burn out
the harness quickly.
I feel very strongly that people should spend the money for correctly coded
wiring harnesses. So many times folks will have replaced a bad wire with one
on hand of the wrong color, and this makes it very hard for someone else later
on to trouble shoot the wiring by trying to trace the wires using the wiring
diagram and color coded insulation on the wires.
If you wish to post this answer to the list, that would be fine, though I would
appreciate it if you would give me credit for being the author.
Thanks,
Roger
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 13:55:23 -0800
Subject: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
Since we are discussing the King Pin Hardness / Recall issue.
I am currently replacing the rear OEM, "MOWOG" ww splines
with Moss splines on my 59/60 BN7 NastyBoy (302 Ford).
There appears to be what might be hardness stamps on the MOWOG
splines but not on Moss. I wonder if there is cause for concern.
I did my own hardness test with a spring loaded automatic center punch.
However so slightly, (it appears to me with 10x eye loop), the dimple made
by the punch is deeper in the Moss splines indicating softer metal ???
Bad splines can also ruin your whole day.
Any thoughts ????
Maybe this question should be run buy Moss and VB by the same list person
who made previous inquiry about the King Pins, since he has an inside
contact.
Since we are on the subject of ruining your whole day.
I purchased Minilite replica center lock (knock off) wheels from VB for the
Nasty Boy.
Before installing them, I checked the torque of the eight spline mounting
bolts,
all at 30 foot pounds.
During the spline replacement as above, and after approx 3,000 miles, I
rechecked the
torque and found some bolts had loosened, retorqued to 35 foot pounds/420
inch pounds.
Happy Healeying
Kirk Kvam
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 11:04:12 +1300
Subject: Uprated Piston in O/D
Would like to hear comments about the usability of the overdrives when the
uprated accumulator and piston has been inserted.
How different is the change into and out of overdrive compared to the stock
piston.
Is there anything else worth noting.
Thanking you in advance
Diann
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 15:06:55 -0700
Subject: Re: re; torque setting
To convert from pound inches divide the specified number by 12.
Therefore the Cylinder head studs should be torqued into the block at 400 lb.
in. which is
400/12 lb. ft. or 33.333... lb. ft.
And the cylinder head nuts should be torqued onto the studs at 900 lb. in.
which is 900/12
lb. ft. or 75 lb.ft.
The settings are also shown in kilogram meters which may have meaning to those
folks who
are not from around here, but I personally have never seen a kg. m. torque
wrench.
Bill Lawrence
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> I have a manual and if I could understand it I would not ask for your help.
>Thank Steve
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: stjepkem@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 17:12:49 -0500
Subject: Weak Coil?
I've isolated the coil with power in, and controlling the ground side, and
held the high voltage coil wire 1/8" from the block. I was expecting a strong
blue spark each time the ground connection was broken. Instead I get a weak
and intermittent spark (not every time) unless I hold it a few thousands of an
inch from the block.
Bad coil? How can a coil go bad? Is there another way to test the coil? It
is not a question of the points/distributor since I isolated the coil from
that.
Any suggestions?
Ryan
BJ7
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Richard J. Hockert, Esq.
To: Steven Tjepkema
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 17:43:54 -0500
Subject: torque settings
Steve:
Attached is a sheet with the specs that you requested. Best regards. Jim
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Healey_SPECS.DOC]
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 11:28:20 -0600
Subject: torque settings
Steve:
Attached is a sheet with the specs that you requested. Best regards. Jim
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Healey_SPECS.DOC; x-mac-type=42494E41; x-mac-creator=4D535744]
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 00:08:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Uprated Piston in O/D
I have been told that it is wise to engage the clutch before shifting
into overdrive on an uprated unit, since it otherwise might overheat if
used repeatedly. However I do not know if that is true or not, since I
have never tested it myself.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 18:33:28 EST
Subject: Re: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
<< Any thoughts ???? >>
Yes. Take it to a shop that has a portable Rockwall tester if they are still
on the car. If they are off the car run them by a heat treat company and they
can check the hardness for you.
Don
NTAHC
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 19:16:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Patterns for Heat Shields
I have a new set from Moss for my BJ7. I believe they are the same as a BJ8.
These things are all odd shapes, no simple matter the get dim's to you. I
could make small sketches with appropriate dim's or maybe I could simply trace
around them onto a piece of newspaper without dims. In either case they would
have to be sent thru the land mail service (read post office). What do you
think?
Ken Mason
Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>A question for the collective:
>
>Has anyone documented the heat shield dimensions??
>
>I did a stupid, and threw away all my heat shields, except the one under
>the floor pan, in a rush to get rid of the asbestos. Now I'm ready for
>new, and would like to use the hardybacker type material, but I don't
>have the dimensions. Rather than guess, I'd like to make them as close
>to original as possible.
>
>Any help appreciated.
>
>Jerry Rude
>BJ8 MkIII Ph2
__________________________________________________________________
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 16:38:49 -0800
Subject: Re: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
Dave,
Sorry if I was vague on the eight mounting bolts.
The eight bolts I referenced, secure the female spline
to the Minilite wheel.
Don,
What Rockwell hardness do you think they should be ?
Or, test and compare to the OEM (MOWOG) splines ??
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com>;
<weewilly@newnorth.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
> In a message dated 3/2/03 3:57:06 PM Central Standard Time,
62BT7@prodigy.net
> writes:
>
> << Any thoughts ???? >>
>
> Yes. Take it to a shop that has a portable Rockwall tester if they are
still
> on the car. If they are off the car run them by a heat treat company and
they
> can check the hardness for you.
>
> Don
> NTAHC
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 19:59:21 EST
Subject: Re: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
<< test and compare to the OEM (MOWOG) splines ??
>>
Sounds like a good place to start.
Don
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 20:00:38 EST
Subject: Re: King Pin Hardness / WW Spline Hardness ???
<< test and compare to the OEM (MOWOG) splines ??
>>
Sounds like a good place to start.
Don
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 18:32:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Uprated Piston in O/D
I put an OD in a TR-6 and for good measure put a couple of thin shims behind the
spring. That has the effect of jacking up the accumulator pressure. The OD
worked fine, but the shift was so abrupt that I was afraid I was going to break
the motor mounts. Without the shims the shift was much less traumatic, but still
a little harsher than you may want in a Healey.
The weight differential between the cars may also be a part of the reason for
the difference in specification. The added weight of the Healey places more
stress on the drive train. Most of the running gear on the Healey is easily up
to the added stress, but the OD is the same one that is used in much lighter
cars. A softer shift means less stress on the OD.
Bill Lawrence
Magnus Karlsson wrote:
> The shift into overdrive is instant with the uprated piston and spring.
> The shift out of overdrive is the same as on a stock unit, since the
> accumulating piston has nothing to do with that process. It is the
> eight springs mounted between the sliding clutch and the adaptor plate
> that control disengagement.
>
> I have been told that it is wise to engage the clutch before shifting
> into overdrive on an uprated unit, since it otherwise might overheat if
> used repeatedly. However I do not know if that is true or not, since I
> have never tested it myself.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 20:52:17 EST
Subject: Re: Fire trucks, was farewell to the list
> Gary. Funny you should mention the fire engine. My friend Andy from Camden
> Maine is the top man on fire truck restoration
> One day last fall the phone rang. It was Jay Leno saying that his crew was
> working on a fire truck and would Andy bring his wife and come out the LA
> to
> oversee the project. It's great to see someone with that
> kind of money spend it so wisely. Don't you agree? Cheers, JL
>
>
It never ceases to amaze me how small the world is. Six degrees of separation
really makes sense. you know me, I know Leno, Leno knows your friend who
restores fire trucks. (That's only four degrees!) The coincidence is that he
was working on that truck when I visited the shop, and I happened to mention
it on a list with someone who knows the person who helped restore it. And it
is a fantastic job.
I think Leno's love for cars, and his willingness to put his money into
tangible objects that enhance and extend our knowledge of our culture is a
great way to spend money. Obviously, it helps keep him grounded, since he can
surround himself with people who understand the difference between the solid
feeling of history and the ephemeral nature of fame.
Cheers
Gary
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 18:50:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Patterns for Heat Shields
Bill Lawrence
MeditionM@netscape.net wrote:
> Jerry
>
> I have a new set from Moss for my BJ7. I believe they are the same as a BJ8.
> These things are all odd shapes, no simple matter the get dim's to you. I
>could make small sketches with appropriate dim's or maybe I could simply trace
>around them onto a piece of newspaper without dims. In either case they would
>have to be sent thru the land mail service (read post office). What do you
>think?
> Ken Mason
>
> Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> >Hi all,
> >
> >A question for the collective:
> >
> >Has anyone documented the heat shield dimensions??
> >
> >I did a stupid, and threw away all my heat shields, except the one under
> >the floor pan, in a rush to get rid of the asbestos. Now I'm ready for
> >new, and would like to use the hardybacker type material...
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 20:55:16 EST
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
> until it was struck in traffic in November. I figure, the speedo cable
> having crapped out
> about 200 miles south of Des moines, I have logged nearly 10,000 miles on
> it since May. Thats including the two months I let her languish in the
> garage because I was too
> heartsick to look at the damage to her formerly beautiful hind quarters.
>
What was your experience in claiming the damage on your insurance policy?
Cheers
Gary
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 19:02:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Weak Coil?
Bill Lawrence
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> I'm trying to start the car (after 6 years of restoration) and I'm having
> trouble getting a consistent spark. The car ran well when I took it apart.
>
> I've isolated the coil with power in, and controlling the ground side, and
> held the high voltage coil wire 1/8" from the block. I was expecting a strong
> blue spark each time the ground connection was broken. Instead I get a weak
> and intermittent spark (not every time) unless I hold it a few thousands of an
> inch from the block.
>
> Bad coil? How can a coil go bad? Is there another way to test the coil? It
> is not a question of the points/distributor since I isolated the coil from
> that.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 21:14:00 EST
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 22:01:27 -0500
Subject: More advice on crimping/soldering
"I know that there's a claim that crimping connectors is more
resistant to breakage than soldering connectors"
This statement is simply untrue. It is not about the method of
making the connection but the stress relief of the attached wire.
This cannot be stressed enough !
Some basic concepts should be kept in mind:
a) Both crimp and solder joints are perfectly ok if they are never
disturbed. Duh !
b) Any electrical connection depends on a "gas tight" connection
between both mating parts. This basically means that, under lab
conditions, if the connection was subjected to a corrosive gas that
attacks the metals involved the area that was crimped or screwed
together, is not affected (corroded) by that gas.
c) The looping crimp is a bad idea when dealing with low voltage and
relatively high current e.g. 12 v accessories. It is ok for high
voltage and low current e.g. spark plugs.
Crimp connection course 101:
- NEVER crimp solid wire
- use ONLY the correct crimping tool recommended by the manufacturer
or its direct equivalent. This may not apply to the Healey world as
the crimps are already done. So what to do ?
The web is chocabloc with soldering techniques.
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm is as good as any.
Spend 1/2 hour reading and practice on various connections !
The soldering process, assuming that people know how to solder (and
the vast majority do not), makes for a good electrical connection.
Most people use too much solder. The main problem is that solder may
wick back along the wire. Do not solder any connections in a vehicle
environment without paying strict attention to the stress relief of
the insulated wire where it exits the connector. Stress relief
reduces to a minimum the vibration of the vehicle from moving the
wire with respect to the connector.
Soldering a bullet connector is a good idea since the insulated wire
is pushed down into the "bullet" and the stripped copper stranded
wire pokes out the hole in the end to facilitate soldering. Again,
use a minimal amount of solder.
Have fun.
Nic Maennling
29 years at Nortel - a substantial number of those involved testing
connectors !
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 22:07:25 -0500
Subject: re tudor bottle cleanup
Ive cleaned a mess of these with PPG's aluminum cleaner. Its a mild acid you
dilute with water (phosphoric I think) . It does wonders on getting rid of
the yellowing. Wont harm the blue paint. I use an old toothbrush and keep
bottle submerged for about 5min. I dont scrub vigoroiusly on the label but
have at it every where else. Try it on the insides first or on the lid till
your comfortable with it. Remember ,it is an acid so use wisely. Also it is
fantastic on glass bits and all chrome screws, latches ect. saves a heck of
a lot of time and gets posi head screws looking like brand new!
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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From "Jim Wojcik" <jwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 21:42:45 -0600
Subject: How should we do business together?
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 22:48:42 EST
Subject: Re: More advice on crimping/soldering
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 22:52:06 EST
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
<< I predict this will be a new branch of business ethics. Jim
Wojcik, BN7 >>
It's actually not a new business ethic at all. People who buy used parts are
buying (or you as seller need to be clear that you are selling) as-is items.
If you have misrepresented the part, that is where you need to make it right.
Some parts are more difficult to guage if they are more complex and are
"servicable" or not.
There are a few sublties that are variable, but it's really pretty simple.
Check places like ebay and read the disclaimers that many reputable, or even
not so reputable dealers use.
Item sold as-is, etc.
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 20:46:23 -0800
Subject: Need advise on several issues
2. Is there any way to refresh the black plastic which has that 40 year
old faded look??
3. I want to replace my exhaust system with a non stainless steel
system that will be as close to original as possible but I need a system
that is not too loud since my hearing is already bad and I want to keep
as much of my hearing I can. Is Moss OK or is there some alternative
that would be better?
As always, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Ron
61BN7
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 21:44:16 -0700
Subject: How should we do business together
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 23:56:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Patterns for Heat Shields
If you are talking about the white, asbestos-look-alike, ceramic material
out there be careful with it. I bought a sheet and cut my own heat shields.
It is quite brittle and am told that it sort of falls apart if wetted.
However, it is a really close look alike to the correct stuff appartently
due to a large extent to its method of manufacture
Keith Pennell
> Has anyone got any information on how well the hardybacker stands up. I
got a set from VB that is so brittle it just breaks up and falls off in
chunks.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 00:27:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Need advise on several issues
1. I cleaned mine with kerosene, a test tube brush from school and a
really tiny electric razor brush. Flushing with a spray bottle containing
kerosene should follow. I made sure to work with the head upside down to
minimize the stuff going into the electrics. Blow it out well with air and
leave it on top of a floor vent overnight.
Lube it with lithium grease. WD40 evaporates too completely leaving behind
little real lubricant.
2. On the bakelite you can get quite good results with a buffing wheel
and Jeweler's rouge. You can buff it to near new appearance in a few
minutes.
3. No comment as my BN7 came with a SS system.
Hope this helps
Keith Pennell
> OK, I have several questions and as always I would appreciate any
> comments from list members:
> 1. I am rebuilding my steering box on a BN7. I have the Control Head
> Assembly out. It works but has 40 years of dirt and grease build-up.
> Without totally disassembling it is there an easy way to clean and lube
> it such as spraying it with electrical contact cleaner followed by WD40
> or some other lube??
>
> 2. Is there any way to refresh the black plastic which has that 40 year
> old faded look??
>
> 3. I want to replace my exhaust system with a non stainless steel
> system that will be as close to original as possible but I need a system
> that is not too loud since my hearing is already bad and I want to keep
> as much of my hearing I can. Is Moss OK or is there some alternative
> that would be better?
>
> As always, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 22:55:37 -0700
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
I don't think that internet business is that much different from regular
mail order. Not a new branch of ethics at all. You sell an unusable or
defective part - unless it is somehow the buyers fault, like he
requested the wrong part, why should the buyer be out any more money for
your mistake? He is already out the time involved & inconvenience.
If you tell the customer - tough luck he will really be pissed.
Tell the customer to return the part & you cover the return shipping,
then replace the part or give a refund. If you offer a refund without
getting the part back you may get screwed, kind of a grey area. Maybe
refund or replace without return if the part cost is less than the
shipping. I know that paying return costs can be costly to you but if
you want to keep a good reputation it could be best. Kind of a fine line
to walk. Beware of "as is" statements & be prepared to be stuck with
some junk.
I have had various vendors that I was buying parts from offer to pay
return charges,or only offer if I insisted, or refuse to pay return
costs. It is apparently common for vendors to only pay shipping to the
customer & not pay for return shipping. This usually makes me mad enough
to boycott the vendor & tell others of my anger. The ones that have paid
return costs have a customer for life.
I recently had a "very reputable" vendor stick me twice for return
shipping when he sent the wrong part twice & I will not go back to him.
I may have been partially at fault because there were three possible
part matches, of which only one would work. Blame the factory for
building something so iffy on part fit. Not completely my fault or the
vendors fault.If he had even offered to pick up one of the shipping
charges I would have been happy.
Old British car parts can be a problem because we are unsure of what
will fit on what. Both on the part of the seller & of the buyer.
Sometimes there is shared blame for a problem & you have to handle each
problem separately.
Dave Russell
Jim Wojcik wrote:
> Dear List,
> I have a hypothetical situation you could give me your opinions on. Imagine I
> have a collection of parts from Healeys I have bought and stripped for
> selling. I sell a part that the buyer finds is unusable. I may not have
> realized it was unusable, and sold it thinking it was a usable piece. Now,
> what do you think my obligations would be to my buyer? Should I refund his
> money for the part that didn't turn out to be what he hoped and what I thought
> it was? Should I have known more about the state of the part I sold? What
> about the costs of shipping? Should I cover those costs too? Whole or in part?
> I welcome your thoughts and experiences about this. In our internet commerce
> and relationships, I predict this will be a new branch of business ethics. Jim
> Wojcik,
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 23:12:07 -0800
Subject: Soldering
should then be crimped. As your uncle says, after the wires are tinned and
crimped no stress should be put on the wires. the soldering and crimping is to
make the connection electrically not to hold them together.
Ron Rader
Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I thought I'd pass some of our recent crimping soldering debate over
> to my uncle who worked for many years testing electrical and
> electronic components. He also understands the world of Lucas/
> Here are his comments;
> Stephen, Bj8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 23:26:51 -0800
Subject: exhaust system
the first year it is very quite.
the second year it has a very pleasant rumble to it.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey CA
Ronald Fine wrote:
> 3. I want to replace my exhaust system with a non stainless steel
> system that will be as close to original as possible but I need a system
> that is not too loud since my hearing is already bad and I want to keep
> as much of my hearing I can. Is Moss OK or is there some alternative
> that would be better?
>
> As always, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 01:47:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
--- Jim Wojcik <jwojcik@ties.k12.mn.us> wrote:
> Dear List,
> I have a hypothetical situation you could give me
> your opinions on. Imagine I
> have a collection of parts from Healeys I have
> bought and stripped for
> selling. I sell a part that the buyer finds is
> unusable. I may not have
> realized it was unusable, and sold it thinking it
> was a usable piece. Now,
> what do you think my obligations would be to my
> buyer? Should I refund his
> money for the part that didn't turn out to be what
> he hoped and what I thought
> it was? Should I have known more about the state of
> the part I sold? What
> about the costs of shipping? Should I cover those
> costs too? Whole or in part?
> I welcome your thoughts and experiences about this.
> In our internet commerce
> and relationships, I predict this will be a new
> branch of business ethics. Jim
> Wojcik, BN7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 05:09:49 -0600
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
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From "Ed Orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 07:05:26 -0500
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
I need the location of the boot bulkhead and the rear seat bulkhead where they
attach to the frame . Turns out the boot bulkhead that I braced into place for
just this purpose has a 3/8" variance from one side to the other as measured
back to the rear of the rear frame cross member .
Your help as always is much appreciated .
Ed Orr
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 07:02:18 -0500
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 05:01:04 -0800
Subject: RE: re;torque settings
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hey Greg,
>
> Instead of trying to remember the .0833 formula, why not
> divide the same by 12 (the number of inches in one foot)
> to get foot pounds.
>
> Much easier to remember.
>
> Kirk :-)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 08:07:21 EST
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
> I predict this will be a new branch of business ethics
Jim--
It depends upon your discussions with and representations to him, your
relative states of knowledge, etc. I don't see anything new hear, and as
someone once told me many years ago: "If the question is one of ethics then
the answer is NO."
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 09:28:59 EST
Subject: Freeze Plugs
Bill Percival BN4 LO 75759
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 10:21:43 -0500
Subject: Doing Business
Dear List,
I have a hypothetical situation you could give me your opinions on.
Imagine I
have a collection of parts from Healeys I have bought and stripped for
selling. I sell a part that the buyer finds is unusable. I may not have
realized it was unusable, and sold it thinking it was a usable piece.
Now,
what do you think my obligations would be to my buyer? Should I refund
his
money for the part that didn't turn out to be what he hoped and what I
thought
it was? Should I have known more about the state of the part I sold?
What
about the costs of shipping? Should I cover those costs too? Whole or in
part?
I welcome your thoughts and experiences about this. In our internet
commerce
and relationships, I predict this will be a new branch of business
ethics. Jim
Wojcik, BN7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 07:57:57 -0800
Subject: Rally equipment
Does anyone have a used Brantz International 2 "S" Pro rally calculator
that they would like to sell for installation in my 1967 FHC?
Ron Rader
1967 E FHC
1965 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 11:28:50 EST
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
<< Yesterday afternoon was sunny and 67 so started out to put a few more
break-in miles on my completely rebuilt engine in my almost ready BN4.
Warmed up GREAT in 5 or 6 miles, then at 3000 rpm steady run I heard a
metalic "Ping" under the hood and then a cloud of something out the back.
The new front freeze plug had escaped.
Question is, how should these be put in to avoid this, and does this make the
other freeze plugs suspect and how should I check them? How nuch pressure is
on these plugs?
I have several issues with the engine rebuilder, so not real confident
these were put in correctly, and I want to ask him inteligent questions when
I get the car back to him for the fix.
Any help is appreciated. >>
CORE plugs commonly seal a little after a engine re build, this is why we
alway install some Iron Tight engine sealeer in all of our rebuilds. I would
get a bottle and install it in the cooling system. This should stop these sma
ll seaps of coolant from the core plugs.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 09:47:11 -0800
Subject: King Pin failure
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 10:53:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
There are two types of plugs, the domed type & the cup type. The domed
type is a disc with a convex or concave shape, depending upon which side
you are looking at, which fits into a counterbore in the block or head
hole. The cup type is an open ended cup which fits into a straight
walled hole. I think that you have the domed type, The cup type hardly
ever has a problem. To install the domed plug, thoroughly clean & dry
the hole & counterbore, apply a coolant resistant sealer, I use
"Permatex 3H aviation sealer", place the plug in the counterbore & whack
it with the round end of a ball pein hammer to make it nearly flat but
not completely flat. Too far & it will go over center & loosen ahain.
Some use several smaller whacks, some a round end or flat end punch,
flat side of the hammer, many variations of how to flatten. The object
is to expand the plug in the hole by nearly flattening the dome which
expands the plug. There is only one correct plug size for a given hole
size, pretty hard to use the wrong size & have it work at all.
If it is the cup type coat with sealer & drive the closed end of the cup
in until the open end is nearly flush. A socket which fits inside of the
open end works well. Much easier to install correctly & holds better.
Most newer cars use the cup type but they are not interchangeable.
Yes the other plugs are suspect. If you take a chance on the other plugs
being ok you will never feel confident that another one is not going to
come out or leak. See temporary plugs below. You need to visually check
to see if they appear to be in straight, not cocked, & have the correct
amount of flattening. Maybe you could look at another engine to see how
flat they should look if you could find one with the dome type plugs.
Kind of a judgement call. Don't know what to advise. An experienced
mechanic can tell at a glance if they are installed correctly. With the
engine in the car & all parts installed it will be hard to see all of
the plugs & even harder to work on them. Probably plugs on the engine
sides & front & back. Bad deal.
The plugs have to hold around seven pounds with the stock radiator cap &
more if the cap has been changed. Not much pressure. The real problem is
the thermal cycling, (expansion / contraction) of the parts. the plugs
rely upon the springiness of the plugs to take up the slack in the
joint. The spring is put into the dome plug by flattening it.
There are temporary type plugs, both metal & rubber which are expanded
by tightening a nut. I keep a couple of the correct size rubber plugs in
the car for possible road side repair. Some people think that the metal
type can be used permanently but I wouldn't trust them.
As with all things mechanical, you will probably get several different
answers on this.
Dave Russell
Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> Yesterday afternoon was sunny and 67 so started out to put a few more
> break-in miles on my completely rebuilt engine in my almost ready BN4.
> Warmed up GREAT in 5 or 6 miles, then at 3000 rpm steady run I heard a
> metalic "Ping" under the hood and then a cloud of something out the back.
> The new front freeze plug had escaped.
> Question is, how should these be put in to avoid this, and does this make the
> other freeze plugs suspect and how should I check them? How nuch pressure is
> on these plugs?
> I have several issues with the engine rebuilder, so not real confident
> these were put in correctly, and I want to ask him inteligent questions when
> I get the car back to him for the fix.
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Bill Percival BN4 LO 75759
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 09:56:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: How should we do business together?
I sold a (old Moss un-installed) Healey top on e-bay
last year, prior to the Tahoe meet. A few weeks after
the check was cashed, the then new owner called and
said it had a funny smell. Smell??
His story was that it smelled like car urine. It was
old vinyl - and old vinyl does had a unique odor. I
spend time corresponding with him and I even went so
far as to send him digital pics of my spotless garage,
swore that we never owned a cat, and promised never to
get one in the future. Besides, cats don't last long
around coyotes, but he was unconvinced.
It was the best ebay return story I had ever heard.
With all those Tahoe expenses looming, his wife must
have chided him for making the purchase, or he just
changed his mind. Maybe the installer said that it
was better to start with a brand new top? I told him
how old it was. Who really knows. It would have been
better if he was up front and said that he wanted to
send it back and get his money returned, instead of
wasting my time with his smelly story. - In the end of
course I sent his money back as I would have expected
the same in return.
No new ethics here - just common courtesy.
Dean
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 16:42:44 EST
Subject: Dual Headlight Healey
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 16:53:40 -0500
Subject: Aluminum door thresholds
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 14:32:12 -0800
Subject: Loud Exhausts
I recently installed a M*ss muffler which is louder than my original stock
muffler. I use earplugs most of the time and that helps the noise fatigue as
well.
I put 1.5" dia ss dual tailpipes which may be louder than the stock 1.25"
pipes.
Jim Werners site: http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
has info about restoring bakelite.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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from a pub on the patio of the Parliament building right on the Thames. but I
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 17:38:54 EST
Subject: Re: Planning trip to england (Warwick, etc.)
Anyway, thanks. I'm hitting London next week (12th) then Leaving London on
the 20th.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 11:29:17 +1100
Subject: RE: Dual Headlight Healey
Being at work I don't have any books with me. Specifically Geoff Healey's first
book where he mentions many of the Donald Healey Motor Company's X or
experimental numbers. X 230 does ring a bell.
It's been many years since I have heard of this car but then it was alive and
well in Rome, Italy. It's now for sale in that country.
If it's the same car it is indeed a DHMC prototype of when they experimented
with four headlights in an effort to broaden the market appeal. I seem to
remember that it wasn't all that well liked. However it's wonderful to see it
still in one piece and ready to be picked up by an AH enthusiast.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 X207
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 8:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dual Headlight Healey
Take a look at <A HREF="www.autospeak.it">www.autospeak.it</A>. They feature
one of the dual headlight model
Healeys for sale. Anyone know if this is really a factory prototype?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 19:35:48 EST
Subject: Re: Dual Headlight Healey
It looks like a Checker Cab.
Rick
San Diego
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 21:40:18 -0500
Subject: Footwell panels help
Does anybody know if there should be an oval dimple pressed into
the toeboard (drivers side) and how deep it should be? I do not
have original floorboard panels left on my car. The panels I bought
from SC Parts seem to have a deep enough recess to interfere with
the installation of the heat shield material on the reverse side (in
your BMC parts book that's insulation panel 12,Plate RS) . Would the
left and right hand side toeboards have the same dimple. Seems to me
Jensen wouldn't have made different pressings since the car is right
or left handed, though the left footwell is wider isn't it?
Thanks for your advice on this guys. I'm indebted to you( and to the
bank as well).
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 22:01:26 -0500
Subject: Octane -vs- MPG -- No Healey content
type of car, driving conditions, driver, total weight of the vehicle,
etc, is there a straightforward connection between octane and mpg?
For instance, a tank of 87 octane, say 20 gallons, results in 400 miles
traveled or 20 mpg
89 octane 20 gallons =
?? miles or ?? mpg
91 octane 20 gallons =
?? miles or ?? mpg
Thanks,
CB
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 22:05:15 -0500
Subject: Paging Perry Small
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 22:25:21 -0500
Subject: Bill Meade
Can anyone out there supply me with email address for Bill Meade of the Golden
Gate club? Or his home phone number?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 20:37:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
One thing I've learned is that most body shops don't want to touch any car that
is less than perfectly mundane. Those that do want to be handsomely rewarded. I
did the work the first time and it looks like I'll get to do it again. Actually
I could probably iron out what I have and make it look presentable from a fairly
short distance (50-60 yards?), however I want to replace the tweaked deck lid
(with an alloy part) and maybe even the rear shroud just to correct some of the
deficiencies that already existed. The goal is once again to have it ready for
the Glenwood Springs Rallye.
Speaking of that, I would like to encourage anyone who can make it to the
Glenwood this year to do so. The town lost a lot due to the horrendous fire that
interrupted the event last year and I think sports car owners in the Rocky
Mountain area and in the whole US to some extent owe Glenwood Springs a debt of
gratitude for their support of our hobby through their hosting of this event for
the last 50 years. It's the oldest continuously run sports car rallye in the
country and It's run among some of the most spectacular scenery in the country.
Tourism is one of the town's main industries and any contribution we can make
will help. If you're thinking you may be running into some slack time around the
second week in June, don't be bored, go to Glenwood.
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/1/03 9:52:17 PM, ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
> > until it was struck in traffic in November. I figure, the speedo cable
> > having crapped out
> > about 200 miles south of Des moines, I have logged nearly 10,000 miles on
> > it since May. Thats including the two months I let her languish in the
> > garage because I was too
> > heartsick to look at the damage to her formerly beautiful hind quarters.
> >
>
> What was your experience in claiming the damage on your insurance policy?
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 21:51:59 -0600
Subject: Re: 100/4 Tach and Speedo
If they were what kind of insert was it? plastic?
Thanks in advance,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 21:05:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Patterns for Heat Shields
Bill
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Bill,
>
> If you are talking about the white, asbestos-look-alike, ceramic material
> out there be careful with it. I bought a sheet and cut my own heat shields.
> It is quite brittle and am told that it sort of falls apart if wetted.
> However, it is a really close look alike to the correct stuff appartently
> due to a large extent to its method of manufacture
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Has anyone got any information on how well the hardybacker stands up. I
> got a set from VB that is so brittle it just breaks up and falls off in
> chunks.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 23:45:50 EST
Subject: Re: Aluminum door thresholds
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 21:54:53 -0800
Subject: test
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 23:02:49 -0700
Subject: Re: 100/4 Tach and Speedo
Bill Lawrence
Greg Lemon wrote:
> A niggling little questions someone may know the answer. On the 100/4 tach
> and speedometer were the high beam and iginition warning lights "colored" by
> any sort of transparent insert as on later british and other cars?, mine
> aren't nor are most I have seen, but all the sixties british cars I have
> owned have a red igintion light and puplish blue high beam light.
>
> If they were what kind of insert was it? plastic?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From Ed Brakeman <ebrakeman at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 05:25:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Reference check - Kurt Tanner in California
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:06:36 EST
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG -- No Healey content
High octane aviation fuel at 105 - 115 or so is actually really clean
kerosene. Low octane fuel like 87 octane is easily ignited and more
"volitile" than high octane.
You would want to select an octane rating, just slightly higher than required
to prevent "pre-ignition" or "pinging". Higher compression engines and those
with advanced timing, required a higher octane rating which is "less"
volitile. You select a slightly higher rating because the requirements change
under load, rpm and environmental conditions.
You may not ping under normal cruising, but under load (going up hill) you
begin to hear it. In modern engines (computer controlled) sensors determine
that point of "knock" and detune the engine automatically to prevent it.
Generally the compression ratio determines a start point. Around 8:1 at 87,
9:1 at 89, 10:1 at 92 etc... (not including high altitudes etc.). If your
pulling a trailer in the mountains you may need 92 octane, yet running
around town without load, you'ld be wasting your money since 87 or 89 would
work well.
Sure, the mpg could decrease when preigniting, but you would cause more
serious problems doing that constantly, than worryiing about your mileage.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:28:41 EST
Subject: 3.54 diff query
Simon.
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From "Thames, G. Troy" <GTT at TPGL.COM>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 10:14:37 -0500
Subject: welding question
Troy
BT-7 Tricarb
CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED
Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above
communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client
privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is
intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader
of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
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If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it
is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 10:46:41 -0600
Subject: looking for heater control tap and oil feed pipe.
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 12:46:04 EST
Subject: 6 cyl rocker arm assembly for sale
Dick North
Prescott, AZ
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 11:27:27 -0800
Subject: BJ8 windshield screws, more
Subject: BJ8 windshield screws
The 4 short screws attaching the small brackets to the large upper and lower
frame members seem to have extremely small countersunk heads. The screws are
10-32 csk with heads the size of a 8-32 csk (hardware store sources anyway).
Apparently that way, the heads stay below flush with the frame. Does anyone
know where to get some nice fitting screws? Is the frame plating in the
holes too thick? I have gotten some stainless socket head screws and am
grinding the heads down, but maybe there is a better way?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:06:14 +1300
Subject: Wheel Splines
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
NZ
BT7
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 12:06:39 -0800
Subject: Heater Control Tap Question
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 20:22:51 -0000
Subject: Roger Menasue update 6
Again today I have spoke with Roger's Daughter.
Roger is still poorly in hospital, he is getting the best care and attention
available.
I will telephone later this week and update you all.
Mell Ward
Midland Centre UK Club
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 13:50:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater Control Tap Question
The remainder of the handle will unscrew ... you need to drill it out,
preferable with a left hand drill bit or use an ez out or grind a little
slot with a dremel and use a screwdriver to get it out. I thought there
was someone selling just the handle ... let me know if you get an
off-list response on this ... otherwise you could add threads to a steel
or brass pin as a replacement. The other tip with these heater taps is
to always tap the spring end with a small hammer to unseat the valve
before attempting to turn.
Cheers,
John
Steve Gerow wrote:
>My heater tap has the handle broken off. My question is: has anyone tried
>drilling out the top of the tap and driving in a steel pin for a replacement
>handle? Would like to hear any experience-based advice.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 14:13:34 -0800
Subject: Heater Tap and Overheating question
Any informed opinions as to whether there's any overheating issue with
turning the tap off in the summer? My cooling system is tip-top otherwise.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 17:45:22 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Tap and Overheating question
> A Healey mechanic around here told me not to turn off the heater tap in the
> summer as it blocks part of the cooling capacity in the head. He said to
> connect a hose from the tap outlet to the heater copper pipe next to the
> intake manifold.
>
> Any informed opinions as to whether there's any overheating issue with
> turning the tap off in the summer? My cooling system is tip-top otherwise.
>
>
Steve--
There's no "overheating issue" raised by closing the tap in hot weather, but
if you DO have a problem with overheating then opening the tap and running
the fan (on your already-hot feet) may actually serve to take a few degrees
off the needle. I sometimes call the heater an "auxiliary radiator"....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 17:50:08 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Control Tap Question
<< My question is: has anyone tried
drilling out the top of the tap and driving in a steel pin for a replacement
handle? Would like to hear any experience-based advice. >>
I had one break off before. I bathed the petcock in WD40 then turned it with
a vise grip.
Won't make any real difference to cooling as when the heater is turned off,
there is no flow anyway. Leaving the valve open and running a tube directly
to the copper pipe diverts cooling water away from the engine flow, so that's
not really an improvement for cooling.
Rick
San Diego
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 15:09:43 -0800
Subject: Stator Tube Installation
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 15:20:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater Tap and Overheating question
All I can say is that my BJ7 ran just fine at 115 F air temp over the
I5 Grapevine and around Bakersfield a couple of summers ago with that
valve closed. Would it have run cooler with the heater valve open? I
don't know; I wouldn't have wanted to find out, either.
Consider this: the heater and that possible coolant flow route are
Optional on Healeys. Not all Healeys came with a heater, particularly
in hot countries. So any additional cooling capacity, if there is
some, was not engineered into the engine design, but rather added on.
Norman Nock has written about driving a Healey through Death Valley in
the summer, with the heater turned ON to increase cooling capacity at
the expense of the comfort and health of the occupants. But that is
another matter. That is using the heater core as an auxiliary
radiator.
-Roland
On Tue, 04 Mar 2003 14:13:34 -0800, you wrote:
::A Healey mechanic around here told me not to turn off the heater tap in the
::summer as it blocks part of the cooling capacity in the head. He said to
::connect a hose from the tap outlet to the heater copper pipe next to the
::intake manifold.
::
::Any informed opinions as to whether there's any overheating issue with
::turning the tap off in the summer? My cooling system is tip-top otherwise.
::
::Thanks in advance.
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 20:16:12 EST
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Installation
Does the end of the stator tube that you're trying to insert have an indented
groove ?
If so, you must align that groove with the "bump" in receiver tube so that it
can travel in further.
Trying rotating the whole wheel slowly as you lightly try to push the stator
forward. Eventually it should line up and slide in further.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 17:31:17 -0800
Subject: Heater Tap follow up
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 18:50:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Installation
Bill Lawrence
matt wilson wrote:
> Dear Forum-
> I hated to have to send this e-mail but I am at a dead stop. I just installed
> a rebuilt trafficator on my 1960 AH 3000 BT7 and I cannot get the stator tube
> (with the Trafficator now installed) to go back through the steering box.
> Just seems like it's hitting something about three inches from being all the
> way in. I have the nut off the front of the steering box. Is there something
> I am missing?
> Thanka!
> Matt-
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 19:52:40 -0600
Subject: Re: 100/4 Tach and Speedo
Greg
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 19:58:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Installation
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 21:21:05 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Control Tap Question
You may check with Bill Bolton <TRICARB@aol.com>. He did have some of the
heater control handles several months ago.
M. S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 21:18:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Replacement badges
Gary Hemphill http://www.healeyhaven.com/ is attempting to have high quality
cloisonni MKIII front badges produced. I checked with him the end of January
and they still weren't ready. I just returned from holiday and haven't
checked with him as of yet. Ring him up and he may have a recent update.
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
Bradenton, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <charles@therichcompany.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 6:21 PM
> Subject: Replacement badges
>
>
> > Hello, Healeyphiles!
> >
> > A fellow BJ8 owner and non-lister is looking for a good place to buy
some
> > replacement emblems (Healey wings nose badge, fender spears, and trunk
> 3000
> > emblem and flash). Does anyone have any recent experience with the
> suppliers
> > of these items? Recommendations for sources to use and to avoid?
> >
> > Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 21:50:18 -0500
Subject: Octane -vs- MPG
CB
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 20:41:55 -0600
Subject: Front Suspension (Kingpin Recall)
While I have it apart should I replace the upper trunion rubber with
something else? Are Delrin or poly bushings available and advisable? The
complete front end was rebuilt about 5K ago so I am thinking it should come
apart without much hammering.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 22:11:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Installation
If you have the traf installed down in the stator tube and then attempt to
push the tube through there may not be enough length that way. The traf
teat will merely slide way down the slot and the traf then bottoms out on
the steering wheel hub. Could that be what is happening?
Are you able to feed the tube by itself through the front of the box and up
then tighten the nut on the olive? Then insert the traf from the top end?
Just a thought
Keith Pennell
> Dear Forum-
> I hated to have to send this e-mail but I am at a dead stop. I just
installed
> a rebuilt trafficator on my 1960 AH 3000 BT7 and I cannot get the stator
tube
> (with the Trafficator now installed) to go back through the steering box.
> Just seems like it's hitting something about three inches from being all
the
> way in. I have the nut off the front of the steering box. Is there
something
> I am missing?
> Thanka!
> Matt-
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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 17:12:30 +1300
Subject: Wheel Splines
Great list - who would want to leave it?
Andrew Shrimpton
NZ
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 23:16:29 EST
Subject: Re: Wheel Splines
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 3/4/03 12:07:59, andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz writes:
<< I have some Healey wire wheels which a guy wants to fit to an MGB.
Does anyone know if they will go straight on, or what spline he needs
to buy that will bolt on to his hub?
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
NZ
BT7 >>
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 23:06:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheel Splines
> The MG uses a 14" wheel, and the Healey a 15" wheel. Using a 15" wheel on
an
> MG will allow for using tires of a shorter sidewall for less lateral flex.
I
> don't know if the wheel's offset is right. It may be.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> In a message dated 3/4/03 12:07:59, andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz writes:
>
> << I have some Healey wire wheels which a guy wants to fit to an MGB.
> Does anyone know if they will go straight on, or what spline he needs
> to buy that will bolt on to his hub?
>
> Thanks
>
> Andrew Shrimpton
> NZ
> BT7 >>
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 00:18:06 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater Control Tap Question
Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>My heater tap has the handle broken off. My question is: has anyone tried
>drilling out the top of the tap and driving in a steel pin for a replacement
>handle? Would like to hear any experience-based advice.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
>
__________________________________________________________________
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 00:48:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Footwell panels help
Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>If anyone has a bare Healey 3000 tub for reference, or photos, I
>would appreciate the following information:
>
>Does anybody know if there should be an oval dimple pressed into
>the toeboard (drivers side) and how deep it should be? I do not
>have original floorboard panels left on my car. The panels I bought
>from SC Parts seem to have a deep enough recess to interfere with
>the installation of the heat shield material on the reverse side (in
>your BMC parts book that's insulation panel 12,Plate RS) . Would the
>left and right hand side toeboards have the same dimple. Seems to me
>Jensen wouldn't have made different pressings since the car is right
>or left handed, though the left footwell is wider isn't it?
>
>Thanks for your advice on this guys. I'm indebted to you( and to the
>bank as well).
>
>Alain Giguhre
>BN7 bits
__________________________________________________________________
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 23:45:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater Tap and Overheating question
Steve Gerow wrote:
> A Healey mechanic around here told me not to turn off the heater tap in the
> summer as it blocks part of the cooling capacity in the head.
> Any informed opinions as to whether there's any overheating issue with
> turning the tap off in the summer? My cooling system is tip-top otherwise.
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 18:10:55 +1000
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG -- No Healey content
You are getting confused with Jet fuel. Avgas is made from the same
components as petrol (Gas to those stateside) only in a different blend to
produce a less volatile fuel that will not vaporise at high altitude, and
more high octane components.
Everything else you noted re octane number, was spot on.
The only difference here in Australia is that BP and Shell both sell 97-98
octane (RON) fuel that is also higher density so you do get approx 10%
better fuel economy but at a 15% higher pump price.
Greg Bankin
(Chemist at BP refinery here in Oz)
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 05:13:15 -0600
Subject: Re: 100/4 Tach and Speedo
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 11:46:14 EST
Subject: Parts quality, testing and SAFETY
Bill 59 BN4 LO 75759
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:51:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG / Ozone hole
So, It's you Oz dudes, that are causing the hole in the ozone layer
over the South Pole and our So. California Smog with your
"higher density" fuels.
Lets all of us listers start a class action against BP and
their Mad (/oo\) Chemist.
Kirk Kvam ;-)
So. Cal.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG -- No Healey content
> | High octane aviation fuel at 105 - 115 or so is actually really clean
> | kerosene.
>
> You are getting confused with Jet fuel. Avgas is made from the same
> components as petrol (Gas to those stateside) only in a different blend to
> produce a less volatile fuel that will not vaporise at high altitude, and
> more high octane components.
>
> Everything else you noted re octane number, was spot on.
>
> The only difference here in Australia is that BP and Shell both sell 97-98
> octane (RON) fuel that is also higher density so you do get approx 10%
> better fuel economy but at a 15% higher pump price.
>
> Greg Bankin
> (Chemist at BP refinery here in Oz)
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 14:05:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG / Ozone hole
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <N0040@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Octane -vs- MPG / Ozone hole
| World Mystery Solved !!!
|
| So, It's you Oz dudes, that are causing the hole in the ozone layer
| over the South Pole and our So. California Smog with your
| "higher density" fuels.
|
| Lets all of us listers start a class action against BP and
| their Mad (/oo\) Chemist.
|
| Kirk Kvam ;-)
| So. Cal.
|
| |
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 11:46:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Fuel Gauge Bench Test
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Joh Polmans" <j.polmans at hetnet.nl>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 21:05:10 +0100
Subject: Stator tube
I had the same problem as you describe. My solution is as follows:
The cables have some place in the Stator tube. I put some insolation tape
round the cable and put it back into te tube. The cable was fixed in the
centre of the tube. My son put the tube back and I pulled slowly at the
cables. When the tube received the nut I could fix it through by taking the
taped cable.
I hope you will fix it as well.
Joh Polmans
The Netherlands
60 BT7
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 16:43:16 -0500
Subject: Parts quality, testing and SAFETY
Right now I don't feel safe when behind the wheel of my virtually "new"
Healey.
That breaks my heart....
We've been through this topic before on the list and I understand how
you feel about parts quality Bill. I am rebuilding a car and have
been shopping for parts for the last 4 years. I have seen some pretty
crappy stuff being produced, sometimes I wonder why do they bother
having it made in the first place, if it's going to be so obviously
inferior ?
I think the contemporary car parts market is no different. I have
"jobber" brake pads on my Volkswagen right now that fade like you
would'nt believe. Listen to an ad guy: Use genuine replacement
parts! (in our case NOS or restored authentic parts) Before you buy a
part from "that" supplier again , look into independent parts
suppliers who know their stuff. In the case of the kingpins, the
original kingpins were supplied by Quinton-Hazell (QH) in an orange
box. Harder to find, but well worth it. Just my own 2".
Alain Giguhre
BN7 ( quality ) bits
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 17:04:16 -0500
Subject: king pin recall
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 17:10:05 -0600
Subject: "MY OTHER CAR IS AN AUSTIN HEALEY'
www.engravenet.com
That way I won't get stuck with any shipping expenses and I won't have to put
any money up front.
No financial interest, yada yad. Just trying to pass it on to those interested.
Don
BN7
(almost sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 21:05:27 -0500
Subject: Paging Michael Oritt - No Healey content
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:28:41 EST
Subject: 3.54 diff query
Does anyone know if the 3.54 diff from a 1968 Rover P5b is interchangeable
with those in our 3000s? I may have found what I'm after, but my research to
date has not included any Rovers!
Simon.
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 23:21:15 -0600
Subject: Re: welding question
Good Luck
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it...;-)
"Thames, G. Troy" wrote:
> I have a basic welding question for any experts on the list, and with the
> amount of "typical rust" our cars experience, I'm sure someone will be able
> to help! I'm trying to practice some welds before trying anything on my
> healey, and was wondering if there is a chart somewhere that suggests the
> correct size hole to drill for plug welds on various gauges of steel. If
> not, does anyone have a general rule of thumb?
> As always, any help will be greatly appreciated!!
>
> Troy
> BT-7 Tricarb
>
> CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED
>
> Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above
> communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client
> privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is
> intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader
> of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
> that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
> strictly prohibited.
>
> If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it
> is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any
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> communication.
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From "Jim Wojcik" <jwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 23:35:22 -0600
Subject: More about business together
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 10:58:34 -0000
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
Some time ago, I sent the following off-list to another BN4 owner asking about
modifications to standard - it might interest you. One thing to beware of with
the BN4 freeze plugs is that there are plugs of the same diameter available but
thinner section, which do not seal so well. I suggest that you purchase a set
from your preferred Healey specialist. My car has now run for over 15 years
with the replacement plugs. These have a smear of jointing compound (Hammerite
Red) and were expanded into place using a ball headed hammer striking the
centre of the plug.
"When I first had my car back on the road, it blew out a core plug. I ended up
having to change all of them (!) with the engine in the car; possible but not
easy!
Apart from replacing all of the core plugs with the engine out of the car,
there are straps available that fix over these plugs and prevent them blowing
out - the worst that you get is weeping. (The block has to be drilled and
tapped either side of each core plug and the strap is fitted via a small screw
at either end. A further small screw in the centre of the strap bears onto the
centre of the core plug).
These were developed by the racers/rally enthusiasts (possibly even used by the
factory) and are available from Cape International and Dennis Welch in the UK
plus others. They don't cost very much and the block drill/tap should not be
too expensive if other engine machining is being done. I intend to do this if
my engine ever comes out of the car!"
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
------------------------------
Original message:
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 10:53:41 -0700
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
Hi Bill,
Sorry about your troubles, real bummer.
There are two types of plugs, the domed type & the cup type. The domed
type is a disc with a convex or concave shape, depending upon which side
you are looking at, which fits into a counterbore in the block or head
hole. The cup type is an open ended cup which fits into a straight
walled hole. I think that you have the domed type, The cup type hardly
ever has a problem. To install the domed plug, thoroughly clean & dry
the hole & counterbore, apply a coolant resistant sealer, I use
"Permatex 3H aviation sealer", place the plug in the counterbore & whack
it with the round end of a ball pein hammer to make it nearly flat but
not completely flat. Too far & it will go over center & loosen ahain.
Some use several smaller whacks, some a round end or flat end punch,
flat side of the hammer, many variations of how to flatten. The object
is to expand the plug in the hole by nearly flattening the dome which
expands the plug. There is only one correct plug size for a given hole
size, pretty hard to use the wrong size & have it work at all.
If it is the cup type coat with sealer & drive the closed end of the cup
in until the open end is nearly flush. A socket which fits inside of the
open end works well. Much easier to install correctly & holds better.
Most newer cars use the cup type but they are not interchangeable.
Yes the other plugs are suspect. If you take a chance on the other plugs
being ok you will never feel confident that another one is not going to
come out or leak. See temporary plugs below. You need to visually check
to see if they appear to be in straight, not cocked, & have the correct
amount of flattening. Maybe you could look at another engine to see how
flat they should look if you could find one with the dome type plugs.
Kind of a judgement call. Don't know what to advise. An experienced
mechanic can tell at a glance if they are installed correctly. With the
engine in the car & all parts installed it will be hard to see all of
the plugs & even harder to work on them. Probably plugs on the engine
sides & front & back. Bad deal.
The plugs have to hold around seven pounds with the stock radiator cap &
more if the cap has been changed. Not much pressure. The real problem is
the thermal cycling, (expansion / contraction) of the parts. the plugs
rely upon the springiness of the plugs to take up the slack in the
joint. The spring is put into the dome plug by flattening it.
There are temporary type plugs, both metal & rubber which are expanded
by tightening a nut. I keep a couple of the correct size rubber plugs in
the car for possible road side repair. Some people think that the metal
type can be used permanently but I wouldn't trust them.
As with all things mechanical, you will probably get several different
answers on this.
Dave Russell
Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> Yesterday afternoon was sunny and 67 so started out to put a few more
> break-in miles on my completely rebuilt engine in my almost ready BN4.
> Warmed up GREAT in 5 or 6 miles, then at 3000 rpm steady run I heard a
> metalic "Ping" under the hood and then a cloud of something out the back.
> The new front freeze plug had escaped.
> Question is, how should these be put in to avoid this, and does this make the
> other freeze plugs suspect and how should I check them? How nuch pressure is
> on these plugs?
> I have several issues with the engine rebuilder, so not real confident
> these were put in correctly, and I want to ask him inteligent questions when
> I get the car back to him for the fix.
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Bill Percival BN4 LO 75759
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 07:09:32 -0500
Subject: Re: welding question
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.443 / Virus Database: 248 - Release Date: 1/10/03
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From "Ken and Sharon Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 08:34:06 -0500
Subject: Help!
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 09:18:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Installation
Randy Cooper
BT7
>>> "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net> 03/04/03 08:50PM >>>
It sounds like the end plate on your steering box doesn't line up with the
column. Try loosening the bolts on the end of the box and moving it around to
a
position where the tube lines up.
Bill Lawrence
matt wilson wrote:
> Dear Forum-
> I hated to have to send this e-mail but I am at a dead stop. I just
installed
> a rebuilt trafficator on my 1960 AH 3000 BT7 and I cannot get the stator
tube
> (with the Trafficator now installed) to go back through the steering box.
> Just seems like it's hitting something about three inches from being all
the
> way in. I have the nut off the front of the steering box. Is there
something
> I am missing?
> Thanka!
> Matt-
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From "John Close" <John.Close at sduhsd.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 06:39:59 -0800
Subject: Saint Christopher's Medallion
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 11:18:14 -0500
Subject: fuse box
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 08:13:58 -0800
Subject: RE: fuse box
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 11:51:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Saint Christopher's Medallion
Search this link for 'St Christopher'. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 10:43:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Help!
The subject has been covered before on the list. You can reference
the list archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
Knowing that door fit is even affected by setting the car on the
ground after restoration I would not hesitate to put the drivetrain
in and load the chassis as if it were in finished form. That's what
I'm doing with mine, using an unrestored engine and tranny for the
panel fitting stressing the chassis at suspension mounting points.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 09:49:38 -0800
Subject: RE: license light fuse
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 13:00:35 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
> Hi everybody has anyone think about updating there fuse boxs. Two fues to me
> just don`t cut it I would like some more protection. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
>
Steve, I put an additional fuse box up under the instrument panel on my BN1
to add more fuses to other circuits. Particularly the stop/tail lights
circuit as I don't fancy an electrical fire near the gas tank. The fuse box
is not visible without getting into a contortionist position which makes the
system look stock, but it is also a pain to change the fuses.
Carroll
BN1 #484
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 13:32:27 EST
Subject: Re: Saint Christopher's Medallion
Otherwise, any local Catholic / Christian book store usually carry all manor
of medals and medallions.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 13:37:25 -0800
Subject: Healey Happenings now on line
John Trifari
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
408-541-9608
jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com
Healey Happenings now on line
SUNNYVALE California - Mar 6, 2003 - Golden Gate Healey Happenings, the
official publication of the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club is now available
on-line through the club's web site www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.
The newsletter is in a PDF format and to read it, the viewer
requires the Acrobat Reader. The program can be down-loaded free of charge
from the Adobe web site at www.adobe.com/products/. March 2003, the first
issue on line, has a complete listing of Golden Gate events for the coming
year, along with contact information.
The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club serves the Healey community in
the San Francisco Bay Area and in the Central Valley, and throughout Northern
and Central California and Nevada. The club welcomes owners of Big Healeys,
Sprites, Jensen Healeys and all other cars bearing the Healey Marque, and all
other Healey enthusiasts.
###
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 13:39:58 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate Healey Happenigns on line
John Trifari
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
408-541-9608
jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com
Healey Happenings now on line
SUNNYVALE California - Mar 6, 2003 - Golden Gate Healey Happenings, the
official publication of the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club is now available
on-line through the club's web site www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.
The newsletter is in a PDF format and to read it, the viewer
requires the Acrobat Reader. The program can be down-loaded free of charge
from the Adobe web site at www.adobe.com/products/. March 2003, the first
issue on line, has a complete listing of Golden Gate events for the coming
year, along with contact information.
The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club serves the Healey community in
the San Francisco Bay Area and in the Central Valley, and throughout Northern
and Central California and Nevada. The club welcomes owners of Big Healeys,
Sprites, Jensen Healeys and all other cars bearing the Healey Marque, and all
other Healey enthusiasts.
###
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 17:34:38 -0600
Subject: Re: fuse box
Am I missing something? If you go to a lower amp rated fuse it may blow
before bad things happen as well, but am I wrong in stating that more fuses
in and of themselves don't mean more protection as long as everything is on
a fused circuit?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 18:55:59 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse box
You might think about adding some lower amp in-line fuses under the dash for
area's you're concerned about. That way, you keep the original appearance
in the engine bay area.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 11:18 AM
Subject: fuse box
> Hi everybody has anyone think about updating there fuse boxs. Two fues to
me just don`t cut it I would like some more protection. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 19:00:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Saint Christopher's Medallion
If you look up "Toad" on the Morgan list, he has a very nice Morgan Saint
Christopher's medallion that has some heritage. I don't have his e-mail
address handy at the moment, but if you can't locate him, contact me and I
will help you.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Close" <John.Close@sduhsd.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 9:39 AM
Subject: Saint Christopher's Medallion
> Hello listers - I'm looking for a silver Saint Christopher's Medallion
> for my dashboard and am having trouble finding one that's large enough
> (1-1.25" in diameter). Any suggestions as to a source? - Thanks - JRC,
> BN6
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 19:03:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Help!
Yes, from all that I've read, you should have the engine in the chassis when
performing this kind of work due to the added flexing of the chassis
structure. The engine is very heavy. Almost as much as a Chevy 454!!
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken and Sharon Stickle" <kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 8:34 AM
Subject: Help!
> Currently working with a frame up restoration and today, I heard that I
> need to have my engine on the frame when welding panels, struts,
> etc..... Was told that the motor is so heavy that it flexes the frame
> causing distortions with body parts being welded (doors and around
> clearances).
>
> Does the motor need to be in my BN6 / 1958 while welding?
>
> Really need your help and comments.........The motor is currently out
> with doors, panels, fenders off!
>
> Thanks again for the help,
>
> Ken
> BN6
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 19:17:42 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse box
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <WhoCares56@aol.com>; <stjepkem@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: fuse box
> My rudimentary understanding of fuses and electrics, more circuits don't
> necessarily mean more protection, just that you wouldn't lose everything
if
> a fuse blew, i.e. the license plate lamp is already on a fused circuit,
but
> give it its own fuse and if it blows everything else still works.
>
> Am I missing something? If you go to a lower amp rated fuse it may blow
> before bad things happen as well, but am I wrong in stating that more
fuses
> in and of themselves don't mean more protection as long as everything is
on
> a fused circuit?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 18:39:01 -0600
Subject: St. Chris medal
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 17:48:30 -0700
Subject: Re: fuse box
What you are missing is that on the AH, the lighting & several other
circuits such as overdrive, & fuel pump are not fused at all from the
factory. This makes people nervous so they add a fuse or two.
Dave Russell
BN2
Greg Lemon wrote:
> My rudimentary understanding of fuses and electrics, more circuits don't
> necessarily mean more protection, just that you wouldn't lose everything if
> a fuse blew, i.e. the license plate lamp is already on a fused circuit, but
> give it its own fuse and if it blows everything else still works.
>
> Am I missing something? If you go to a lower amp rated fuse it may blow
> before bad things happen as well, but am I wrong in stating that more fuses
> in and of themselves don't mean more protection as long as everything is on
> a fused circuit?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 19:52:33 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
> As such, if the fuse is sized larger than the melting point of the smallest
> wire, the wire become the fuse during a fault on that particular circuit.
If one is using the 35 and 50 amp fuses to protect their circuits they might
as well use a nail--as Mick points out, sooner or later a wire will melt long
before the fuse will blow. The purpose of a fuse is to protect the circuit
as well as the appliance, so the rule is to put the fuse as close to the
power source as is possible. On my 100 I've got two six-circuit fuse
blocks--one block is for circuits that are always "hot" from the battery and
the other for circuits that are "switched" by the ignition. I atached them
to the firewall in the space where the OD kickdown and the original nail,
er...fuse holder were mounted in the engine bay--but that's a whole 'nother
discussion....
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 18:48:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Best Book with color pictures
Could you recommend me a book that would have the best
color pictures of Healeys (particularly of model
similar to BT7)?
Thank you.
FRANCK
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 22:07:52 -0600
Subject: crank nut question, engine too tight!!!
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my BJ-7 engine and having a problem with the
crank nut. When I tighten it, the engine becomes too tight and is difficult to
turn over. The tolerances were checked on the crank and thrust bearings so that
is not the cause. When I tighten the crank nut down, the engine is very tough
to turn over, as soon as I loosen it, it turns over fine. Before I put the
timing cover on, I checked and the crank and cam wheels were in a perfect
plane. I wonder if I need another spacer on the crank wheel before it meets
the crank, but then the wheels wouldn't be in the same plane????? Maybe it is
the oil thrower that is binding, or maybe the harmonic balancer is rubbing
against the timing cover??? Perhaps I'm getting the nut too tight. I'm not
sure, any ideas out there? As always, thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 09:02:31 -0500
Subject: BN1 Ignition Switch
A question: Did the BN1 ignition switch have screw terminal wire connectors?
I ask because my BN1 has one with spade connectors and I'd like to replace
it with original if possible.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 09:07:55 -0500
Subject: Air cleaner housing Dimple
I just finished restoring my housings and I noticed that they have a dimple in
the center. the dimple will cause my newly purchased Burgess I.D. Plate to be
deformed when tightened up to the housing.
Is the dimple there originally or was it caused by over-tightening against the
void between the bottom plate and top cover?
Rick Neves
BN-2
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 12:37:10 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Ignition Switch
The original ignition switch on your car would have had screw terminals.
As I recall the first Lucar (spade) terminals started to appear about
the same time as the Mini circa 1959.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael E. Williams
Sent: 7-Mar-03 9:03 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: BN1 Ignition Switch
Listers,
A question: Did the BN1 ignition switch have screw terminal wire
connectors?
I ask because my BN1 has one with spade connectors and I'd like to
replace
it with original if possible.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 12:48:54 -0500
Subject: RE: crank nut question, engine too tight!!!
That is a weird one!!
Tightening the crank nut should make no difference at all to how easily
the engine turns.
I presume that the thrower is on correctly with the lip facing forward.
I would suggest that remove the timing cover then tighten the nut.
That would at least isolate the problem to some degree.
I cannot imagine anything within the bock that could cause the symptoms
that you are experiencing.
BTW that crank nut must be done up TIGHT. If it comes loose when the
engine is in use the crank can be seriously damaged.
Michael Salter
Home from New Zealand and retraining myself not to leave the keys in the
ignition.
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: 6-Mar-03 11:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: crank nut question, engine too tight!!!
Listers,
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my BJ-7 engine and having a problem with
the
crank nut. When I tighten it, the engine becomes too tight and is
difficult to
turn over. The tolerances were checked on the crank and thrust bearings
so that
is not the cause. When I tighten the crank nut down, the engine is very
tough
to turn over, as soon as I loosen it, it turns over fine. Before I put
the
timing cover on, I checked and the crank and cam wheels were in a
perfect
plane. I wonder if I need another spacer on the crank wheel before it
meets
the crank, but then the wheels wouldn't be in the same plane????? Maybe
it is
the oil thrower that is binding, or maybe the harmonic balancer is
rubbing
against the timing cover??? Perhaps I'm getting the nut too tight. I'm
not
sure, any ideas out there? As always, thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 10:04:36 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 Ignition Switch
-Roland
'53 BN1
On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 09:02:31 -0500, you wrote:
::Listers,
::
::A question: Did the BN1 ignition switch have screw terminal wire connectors?
::I ask because my BN1 has one with spade connectors and I'd like to replace
::it with original if possible.
::
::--Michael
::'55 BN1
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 19:06:00 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue update 7
Hello Everyone,
A phone call today to Roger's Daughter,
Roger is still the same, in hospital resting and gettting
the best attention
Mell Ward
UK Club
Midland Centre
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 16:53:21 -0800
Subject: cost of BMC parts manual
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 22:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: cost of BMC parts manual
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 7:53 PM
Subject: cost of BMC parts manual
| Can anyone tell me where I can get a "Parts Manual" for my 1961BN7 and
| what such a manual might cost. This is not the Shop Manual but the
| parts manual from the factory with detailed description of all the
| little parts etc.
| Thanks for any help.
| Ron Fine
| BN7
|
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 20:12:26 -0800
Subject: RE: fuse box
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> My rudimentary understanding of fuses and electrics, more circuits don't
> necessarily mean more protection, just that you wouldn't lose
> everything if
> a fuse blew, i.e. the license plate lamp is already on a fused
> circuit, but
> give it its own fuse and if it blows everything else still works.
>
> Am I missing something? If you go to a lower amp rated fuse it may blow
> before bad things happen as well, but am I wrong in stating that
> more fuses
> in and of themselves don't mean more protection as long as
> everything is on
> a fused circuit?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 20:12:25 -0800
Subject: RE: fuse box
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Hi everybody has anyone think about updating there fuse boxs.
> Two fues to me just don`t cut it I would like some more
> protection. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 23:22:38 EST
Subject: Re: cost of BMC parts manual
<< They show up from time to time on eBay.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ >>
Last I heard, AHCUSA was selling copies of the parts manuals, and I believe
that British Car Specialists may also have copies available for sale. One of
the publishing companies that specializes in tech manuals is reproducing them.
Cheers
\Gary
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 21:40:22 -0700
Subject: BJ8 carbs
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 00:58:37 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
<< I will definitely add more fuses when I get to the electrical system.
Anyone
know what a dead short in the headlights would do to the voltage regulator? >>
If you had a DEAD SHORT to ground your head lights would go VERY dim , if you
do not turn off your lights you will have an " electric fire "the wires will
get very hot and the plastic insulation in the harness will melt into a solid
lump . You now need a new harness . DO NOT fuse your head lights , if you
have short circuit in your fused head light circuit the head lights will OUT
INSTANTLY that could cause a major problem . To fuse head lights you would
need to fuse each light beam separtly .. (FOUR SEPARTE FUSES) you would gain
very little protection if done on a Healey . Its a good idea it put a in
-line fuse in the red wire (tail/park lights) at the head light switch
Suggest you get my tech book for more information ..
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 07:26:22 -0500
Subject: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Since that time we have spent quite a bit of time researching this
problem and I would think that some listers may be interested in our
conclusions.
What we have determined happens is as follows.
Under normal conditions bronze guides operate perfectly satisfactorily.
However if the exhaust stream becomes overheated, usually as a result of
a lean mixture, things go very wrong. (Literally pear shaped)
As far as we have been able to determine the exhaust gas temperature of
a cylinder running lean can get as high as 2100 degrees F. Much higher
than normal.
The bronze guide is a very good conductor of heat and will quickly
become very much hotter than the surrounding cast iron as the
surrounding cast iron of the head is heated almost entirely by
conduction across bronze / cast iron interface and is cooled directly by
the coolant.
The guide expands in diameter as the temperature rises, as does the
drilling in the head.
The typical expansion rate of bronze is 0.00001 / degree F, whereas that
for cast iron is 0.0000065 / degree F.
This means that the diameter of a 0.6" bronze guide will increase by as
much as 0.035" when these temperatures are reached.
As a result of its lower expansion coefficient and temperature the
drilling in the head is likely to increase in diameter by only 0.003 -
0.005 inches at most.
The difference, 25 to 30 thousandths of an inch, has to go somewhere.
Often the head will crack radially at the guide hole, but if this does
not happen the guide will actually distort permanently and be crushed
(crimped) to a smaller diameter than original. This action would be much
the same a hose connector shell crimping operation.
While the guide remains hot, i.e. the throttle is open and the mixture
is still lean, all will be well, but as soon as the gas flow cools i.e.
throttle closes or jet blockage clears, the guide will contract and
clamp onto the valve stem.
In addition to this the guide will become loose in the head and is very
likely to move upward with the valve, particularly if the lower portion
of the guide does not protrude below the head casting.
Obviously, the results can be catastrophic.
We are staying with cast iron guides.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 09:06:47 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
> DO NOT fuse your head lights , if you have short circuit in your fused head
> light circuit the head lights will GO OUT INSTANTLY that could cause a
> major problem . To fuse head lights you would need to fuse each light beam
> separately .. (FOUR SEPARATE FUSES) you would gain very little protection
> if done on a Healey . Its a good idea to put an in-line fuse in the red
> wire (tail/park lights) at the head light switch
>
Maybe I'm dense but I do not get the above:
A. If you DON"T fuse the headlights and you have a short somewhere along
their curcuit, resulting in a melted harness or worse.
B. If you DO fuse the headlights you will have a blown fuse and an
indication that you have to find a short.
Which scenario would you want? What is the MAJOR problem that would be
caused by a fuse blowing and your headlights' going out "Instantly" as
opposed to having your harness cook, which might take you off the road
amidst smoke and/or flames?
I have one fuse for my headlights---on the firewall in the circuit before it
gets to the dimmer switch. I have a separate fuse--also on the firewall
leading directly to my sidelights. Both of these (and others such as the
horns, radio, etc.) are part of a six-position fuse block which is energized
from the battery whether or not the ignition is on. Appliances that are
"switched" with the ignition (fuel pump, brake lights, etc. etc.) are dealt
with in a similar manner via a separate fuse block.
Best--Michael
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 08:42:36 -0600
Subject: Re: cost of BMC parts manual
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 09:11:17 -0600
Subject: RE: fuse box
> I will definitely add more fuses when I get to the electrical system.
Anyone
> know what a dead short in the headlights would do to the voltage
regulator?
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
> > Hi everybody has anyone think about updating there fuse boxs.
> > Two fues to me just don`t cut it I would like some more
> > protection. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 10:41:51 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse box
For those of us with an even higher reading on the electrical
'dense-o-meter', what's the chances of you providing a schematic for your
installation and naming the type of fuse block(s) you used?
Thanks,
CB
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from a song, "Everything is Beautiful".
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 09:29:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuse Box
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 07:42:26 -0800
Subject: bronze guides
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 11:34:56 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
> For those of us with an even higher reading on the electrical
> 'dense-o-meter', what's the chances of you providing a schematic for your
> installation and naming the type of fuse block(s) you used?
>
Charlie--
I'll probably be considered a heretic, but since I had already installed an
alternator, reduction starter, Mallory Unilte ignition and removed the
overdrive electrical stuff I had a rather "clean piece of paper" and made
some sweeping changes. I disassembled the harness in back of the engine bay
and upgraded wires wherever possible (including BTW from the battery to the
starter) and installed a "hot" post near where the regulator once
sat--essentially a threaded stud on a plastic base--from which I did my
various feeds. BTW, I used marine-grade tinned wire and terminals in most
cases, and I think I got the fuse panels and the stud at the West Marine
store.
I just kinda "wung it" and have not prepared a schematic! But you have my
number--call me and I'll try to explain it, though there is really nothing
radical involved, just isolating circuits and connecting them to separate
terminals on a fuse panel.
Best--Michael
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 08:44:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
> A few years ago we encountered some serious problems with bronze valve
> guides in cast iron heads.
Healey heads? Or other LBCs, or all cars in general?
Are you referring to bronze-only guides? It's my--not necessarily informed--
understanding that the newer guides are an alloy, possibly with manganese
("bronzonium" or something like that) .
I've run (some sort) of bronze guides for about 50,000 miles with no
problems (that I know of), though I generally run rich-of-peak (as measured
by the plugs and Colortunes).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A few years ago we encountered some serious problems with bronze valve
> guides in cast iron heads.
>
> Since that time we have spent quite a bit of time researching this
> problem and I would think that some listers may be interested in our
> conclusions.
>
> What we have determined happens is as follows.
>
> Under normal conditions bronze guides operate perfectly satisfactorily.
> However if the exhaust stream becomes overheated, usually as a result of
> a lean mixture, things go very wrong. (Literally pear shaped)
>
> As far as we have been able to determine the exhaust gas temperature of
> a cylinder running lean can get as high as 2100 degrees F. Much higher
> than normal.
>
> The bronze guide is a very good conductor of heat and will quickly
> become very much hotter than the surrounding cast iron as the
> surrounding cast iron of the head is heated almost entirely by
> conduction across bronze / cast iron interface and is cooled directly by
> the coolant.
>
> The guide expands in diameter as the temperature rises, as does the
> drilling in the head.
>
> The typical expansion rate of bronze is 0.00001 / degree F, whereas that
> for cast iron is 0.0000065 / degree F.
>
> This means that the diameter of a 0.6" bronze guide will increase by as
> much as 0.035" when these temperatures are reached.
>
> As a result of its lower expansion coefficient and temperature the
> drilling in the head is likely to increase in diameter by only 0.003 -
> 0.005 inches at most.
>
> The difference, 25 to 30 thousandths of an inch, has to go somewhere.
> Often the head will crack radially at the guide hole, but if this does
> not happen the guide will actually distort permanently and be crushed
> (crimped) to a smaller diameter than original. This action would be much
> the same a hose connector shell crimping operation.
>
> While the guide remains hot, i.e. the throttle is open and the mixture
> is still lean, all will be well, but as soon as the gas flow cools i.e.
> throttle closes or jet blockage clears, the guide will contract and
> clamp onto the valve stem.
>
> In addition to this the guide will become loose in the head and is very
> likely to move upward with the valve, particularly if the lower portion
> of the guide does not protrude below the head casting.
>
> Obviously, the results can be catastrophic.
>
> We are staying with cast iron guides.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 11:46:38 -0500
Subject: BT7 squab
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 08:59:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: oversized rear shock holes
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 12:39:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
This problem would apply to any vehicle using any bronze or bronze alloy
exhaust valve guide in a cast iron head that can experience excessively
lean running in one or more but probably not all cylinders.
It is unlikely that single carb engines would encounter this problem
because they would run very badly with mixture settings lean enough to
elevate EGT to the necessary levels.
We first encountered this on a Healey tri carb then more recently on an
MGB running a single DCOE Weber.
We did discover that the problem was worsened with this set up on the MG
because the incoming charge is significantly leaner on the centre 2
cylinders because of stratification caused by the curved manifold.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
Sent: 8-Mar-03 11:45 AM
To: Michael Salter; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Michael,
> A few years ago we encountered some serious problems with bronze valve
> guides in cast iron heads.
Healey heads? Or other LBCs, or all cars in general?
Are you referring to bronze-only guides? It's my--not necessarily
informed--
understanding that the newer guides are an alloy, possibly with
manganese
("bronzonium" or something like that) .
I've run (some sort) of bronze guides for about 50,000 miles with no
problems (that I know of), though I generally run rich-of-peak (as
measured
by the plugs and Colortunes).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A few years ago we encountered some serious problems with bronze valve
> guides in cast iron heads.
>
> Since that time we have spent quite a bit of time researching this
> problem and I would think that some listers may be interested in our
> conclusions.
>
> What we have determined happens is as follows.
>
> Under normal conditions bronze guides operate perfectly
satisfactorily.
> However if the exhaust stream becomes overheated, usually as a result
of
> a lean mixture, things go very wrong. (Literally pear shaped)
>
> As far as we have been able to determine the exhaust gas temperature
of
> a cylinder running lean can get as high as 2100 degrees F. Much higher
> than normal.
>
> The bronze guide is a very good conductor of heat and will quickly
> become very much hotter than the surrounding cast iron as the
> surrounding cast iron of the head is heated almost entirely by
> conduction across bronze / cast iron interface and is cooled directly
by
> the coolant.
>
> The guide expands in diameter as the temperature rises, as does the
> drilling in the head.
>
> The typical expansion rate of bronze is 0.00001 / degree F, whereas
that
> for cast iron is 0.0000065 / degree F.
>
> This means that the diameter of a 0.6" bronze guide will increase by
as
> much as 0.035" when these temperatures are reached.
>
> As a result of its lower expansion coefficient and temperature the
> drilling in the head is likely to increase in diameter by only 0.003 -
> 0.005 inches at most.
>
> The difference, 25 to 30 thousandths of an inch, has to go somewhere.
> Often the head will crack radially at the guide hole, but if this does
> not happen the guide will actually distort permanently and be crushed
> (crimped) to a smaller diameter than original. This action would be
much
> the same a hose connector shell crimping operation.
>
> While the guide remains hot, i.e. the throttle is open and the mixture
> is still lean, all will be well, but as soon as the gas flow cools
i.e.
> throttle closes or jet blockage clears, the guide will contract and
> clamp onto the valve stem.
>
> In addition to this the guide will become loose in the head and is
very
> likely to move upward with the valve, particularly if the lower
portion
> of the guide does not protrude below the head casting.
>
> Obviously, the results can be catastrophic.
>
> We are staying with cast iron guides.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 09:41:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Help!
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 08:34:06 -0500
From: "Ken and Sharon Stickle"
<kstickle@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Help!
Currently working with a frame up restoration and
today, I heard that I need to have my engine on the
frame when welding........Does the motor need to be in
my BN6 / 1958 while welding?
Thanks again for the help,
Ken
BN6
__________________________________________________
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http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 10:02:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: repro license plate lamp?
__________________________________________________
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 13:23:03 EST
Subject: Re: Oversized rear shock holes
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 13:32:49 EST
Subject: Re: repro license plate lamp?
Aloha
Perry
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 10:41:31 -0800
Subject: Re: oversized rear shock holes
Make sure the bush is flush with the shock base with SLIGHT filing
and sanding. Be sure not to remove much metal, or make any sharp
steps that will produce stress risers and cracking.
What I believe makes the difference is I use hardened ("grade 8") flat
washers and careful torquing of the bolts (usually, 35 ft-lbs) to which
I've applied some blue Locktite. The hardened washers increase the
clamping area of the bolts. Lockwashers are worse than useless on
aluminum, they chew up the metal (creating potential stress risers) and
because aluminum is relatively soft the benefit of the lockwashers is
quickly lost.
I have no quantitive data to support these methods, other than I have
had no problems with shocks working loose over tens of thousands
of miles (YMMV).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hello,
> I have a rear shock body which was loose on my project
> car for some time and resulted in its holes getting
> oversized. Since the rear shocks don't affect wheel
> alignment or support the suspension, I thought it
> would be OK to bush the mounting holes. Has anyone
> done this and where did they get the bushings?
> Thanks in advance,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 10:44:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Have you noticed any difference in cars with--or without--hardened
seats (vs. no seats)? How about between plain steel and stellited valves?
I would expect the problems to be worse on the exhaust valve/seat/guide.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Bob,
>
> This problem would apply to any vehicle using any bronze or bronze alloy
> exhaust valve guide in a cast iron head that can experience excessively
> lean running in one or more but probably not all cylinders.
> It is unlikely that single carb engines would encounter this problem
> because they would run very badly with mixture settings lean enough to
> elevate EGT to the necessary levels.
> We first encountered this on a Healey tri carb then more recently on an
> MGB running a single DCOE Weber.
> We did discover that the problem was worsened with this set up on the MG
> because the incoming charge is significantly leaner on the centre 2
> cylinders because of stratification caused by the curved manifold.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>; "To Healey List"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 12:53:16 -0600
Subject: Re: fuse box
> In the daytime or in the middle of the NIGHT in the middle of NOWHERE??
> HoYo
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
> To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Steven Tjepkema"
> <stjepkem@optonline.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 10:12 PM
> Subject: RE: fuse box
>
>
> > I will definitely add more fuses when I get to the electrical system.
> Anyone
> > know what a dead short in the headlights would do to the voltage
> regulator?
> >
> > Best,
> > Greg
> > 67 BJ8
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi everybody has anyone think about updating there fuse boxs.
> > > Two fues to me just don`t cut it I would like some more
> > > protection. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>; "To Healey List"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 14:14:15 -0500
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Despite the big fuss when lead free fuel was coming in I have yet to see
a Healey with a burnt exhaust valve or seat that I could attribute to
unleaded fuel.
In fact we used to change a lot of MGB heads with cracked valve seats
and burned exhaust valves before leaded gas vanished and since that time
we have seen very few. Could be attributable to the lower mileages
people are doing in their LBCs these days but we most certainly have not
seen an increase in exhaust valve problems.
I would be interested to hear from other shop operatoes of their
experiences.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 8-Mar-03 1:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Michael,
Have you noticed any difference in cars with--or without--hardened
seats (vs. no seats)? How about between plain steel and stellited
valves?
I would expect the problems to be worse on the exhaust valve/seat/guide.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Bob,
>
> This problem would apply to any vehicle using any bronze or bronze
alloy
> exhaust valve guide in a cast iron head that can experience
excessively
> lean running in one or more but probably not all cylinders.
> It is unlikely that single carb engines would encounter this problem
> because they would run very badly with mixture settings lean enough to
> elevate EGT to the necessary levels.
> We first encountered this on a Healey tri carb then more recently on
an
> MGB running a single DCOE Weber.
> We did discover that the problem was worsened with this set up on the
MG
> because the incoming charge is significantly leaner on the centre 2
> cylinders because of stratification caused by the curved manifold.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>; "To Healey List"
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 11:57:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
FWIW on this subject: My BJ8 engine was re-built completely in 1984 - '85.
Hardened valve seats (all 12) and sintered bronze valve guides were used, as
the elimination of leaded fuel was already underway - it would no longer be
available within a short period of time. Normal, stock valves were used -
couldn't find anything else at the time.
Unleaded fuel has been used exclusively in the engine, even during break-in,
when I could still have gotten leaded fuel for a short period. An additive
(can't remember which one) was used for the first 2 - 3 tankfuls, during
initial break-in.
The engine has now run slightly over 100,000 miles (not km's) with no
problems at all, and still runs beautifully, albeit slightly 'looser'
sounding with the mileage. No particular attention was paid to fuel during
the period, just the best grade that the station had when travelling, and I
did travel! Go figure - I guess I got the carbs right!
A full restoration of the car is expected to begin later this year, and it's
likely that I will elect to re-do the engine again, even though it doesn't
really need work at this point. It'l be interesting to see what the head
looks like when it comes apart, won't it!
Welcome back from 'down under' Mike. Feeling snowed in yet?
Cheers, ------ Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 11:14 AM
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Hi Bob,
Despite the big fuss when lead free fuel was coming in I have yet to see
a Healey with a burnt exhaust valve or seat that I could attribute to
unleaded fuel.
In fact we used to change a lot of MGB heads with cracked valve seats
and burned exhaust valves before leaded gas vanished and since that time
we have seen very few. Could be attributable to the lower mileages
people are doing in their LBCs these days but we most certainly have not
seen an increase in exhaust valve problems.
I would be interested to hear from other shop operatoes of their
experiences.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 8-Mar-03 1:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Michael,
Have you noticed any difference in cars with--or without--hardened
seats (vs. no seats)? How about between plain steel and stellited
valves?
I would expect the problems to be worse on the exhaust valve/seat/guide.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Bob,
>
> This problem would apply to any vehicle using any bronze or bronze
alloy
> exhaust valve guide in a cast iron head that can experience
excessively
> lean running in one or more but probably not all cylinders.
> It is unlikely that single carb engines would encounter this problem
> because they would run very badly with mixture settings lean enough to
> elevate EGT to the necessary levels.
> We first encountered this on a Healey tri carb then more recently on
an
> MGB running a single DCOE Weber.
> We did discover that the problem was worsened with this set up on the
MG
> because the incoming charge is significantly leaner on the centre 2
> cylinders because of stratification caused by the curved manifold.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>; "To Healey List"
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 15:07:34 EST
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
I had the problem at first in the first hundred miles (with my Hunderd) and
took these steps. No problems since, but only a few (500) hundred miles.
And yes, the car has gotten quite warm a few times with no problems.
I also had hardened seats and bronze guides (without the modifications) put
in my BJ8, after 12,000 never a problem and that car ran quite hot in
traffic. Did the same to the BT7 and after 3000-4000 miles, no problems.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 16:05:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 17:04:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Aero Screen
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 17:04:31 -0500
Subject: Paging Steve Mickelson
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 17:15:06 -0500
Subject: Re: oversized rear shock holes
Jim
PS, this works only for rear shocks, not fronts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 11:59 AM
Subject: oversized rear shock holes
> Hello,
> I have a rear shock body which was loose on my project
> car for some time and resulted in its holes getting
> oversized. Since the rear shocks don't affect wheel
> alignment or support the suspension, I thought it
> would be OK to bush the mounting holes. Has anyone
> done this and where did they get the bushings?
> Thanks in advance,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 17:33:38 -0500
Subject: Scandinivan joke NHC
Thanks in advance.
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan, NJ
BT7, Harley,and a big assed boat
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 17:41:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuse Box
Here's a scenario, and also a good reason to use an in-line fuse. One
beautiful
summer evening (crescent moon and very dark), my wife and I were far away
from home enjoying a drive in our MGA. We headed down a very dark country
road, and I decided to press the dimmer switch to turn on the bright lights
to see better. The next thing I know, my headlights went out and I couldn't
see a bloomin' thing. It didn't matter whether I switched again for dims or
not, they were dead. Sure enough, when I checked my in-line fuse tucked under
the dash, it had blown. I simply replaced the fuse, and we were on our way
again within five or ten
minutes.
For the rest of the evening, I discontinued using my dimmer switch, and only
used my low beams. As it turned out, the dimmer switch had a dirty
(corroded) contact which created an electric arc when I switched it, and as
a result, blew the fuse due to higher current draw. Fortunately, since it only
blew the in-line headlight fuse, everything else continued to work, including
the running
lights. If I had been on a busy highway, it could have been a dangerous
situation. I repaired the dimmer switch and never had another problem.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <SJNNOCK@aol.com>; <wilkinson@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<stjepkem@optonline.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: fuse box
> In a message dated 3/8/2003 1:00:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SJNNOCK@aol.com
> writes:
>> > DO NOT fuse your head lights , if you have short circuit in your fused
head> > light circuit the head lights will GO OUT INSTANTLY that could cause
a
> > major problem . To fuse head lights you would need to fuse each light
beam> > separately .. (FOUR SEPARATE FUSES) you would gain very little
protection> > if done on a Healey . Its a good idea to put an in-line fuse in
the red
> > wire (tail/park lights) at the head light switch> >
> Maybe I'm dense but I do not get the above:
>
> A. If you DON"T fuse the headlights and you have a short somewhere along
> their curcuit, resulting in a melted harness or worse.
> B. If you DO fuse the headlights you will have a blown fuse and an
> indication that you have to find a short.
>
> Which scenario would you want? What is the MAJOR problem that would be
> caused by a fuse blowing and your headlights' going out "Instantly" as
> opposed to having your harness cook, which might take you off the road
> amidst smoke and/or flames?
>
> I have one fuse for my headlights---on the firewall in the circuit before
it
> gets to the dimmer switch. I have a separate fuse--also on the firewall
> leading directly to my sidelights. Both of these (and others such as the
> horns, radio, etc.) are part of a six-position fuse block which is
energized
> from the battery whether or not the ignition is on. Appliances that are
> "switched" with the ignition (fuel pump, brake lights, etc. etc.) are
dealt
> with in a similar manner via a separate fuse block.
>
> Best--Michael
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 18:09:42 -0800
Subject: 100-4 dist.drive spindle needed
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 21:12:35 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 squab
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 21:17:07 EST
Subject: Re: repro license plate lamp?
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 21:58:50 -0600
Subject: Non Healey, Need an electrician
Thanks in advance, Mark
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 22:33:30 -0500
Subject: New Engine, good spark, wont start
I figured out what was wrong with my coil (the wiring harness has the ground
side of the coil sharing a wire to something random-- I bypassed it and get a
good spark).
Now I have a good spark, fuel pump gives good pressure, new carbs, choke on,
valves timed, medium to reasonable compression with new rings (loose thumb
over the spark plug hole can feel the pressure, but a firmly pressed thumb can
stop all air escape), static timed to open at TDC, points gapped, good oil
pressure... what else?
I guess I'll try a can of quick start into the carburetors next. Not sure what
else to do.
Any suggestions?
Ryan
BJ7
not quite frustrated yet, but getting close. :)
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 23:21:16 EST
Subject: Re: New Engine, good spark, wont start
<< firmly pressed thumb can
stop all air escape) >>
Check your compressions with a compression gauge not your finger , your
finger cant hold the compression of a good engine Norman Nock
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from their visit to Mike's shop in Canada to have the bushings installed and
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 23:26:33 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Front Axle Assemblies Available
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 22:37:20 -0600
Subject: Re: New Engine, good spark, wont start
Your static timing should be 10 degrees before TDC. Your firing too late
for starting.
Best regards. Jim
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 22:25:28 -0700
Subject: Re: New Engine, good spark, wont start
Bill lawrence
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> Folks:
>
> I figured out what was wrong with my coil (the wiring harness has the ground
> side of the coil sharing a wire to something random-- I bypassed it and get a
> good spark).
>
> Now I have a good spark, fuel pump gives good pressure, new carbs, choke on,
> valves timed, medium to reasonable compression with new rings (loose thumb
> over the spark plug hole can feel the pressure, but a firmly pressed thumb can
> stop all air escape), static timed to open at TDC, points gapped, good oil
> pressure... what else?
>
> I guess I'll try a can of quick start into the carburetors next. Not sure what
> else to do.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
> not quite frustrated yet, but getting close. :)
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 09:14:33 -0500
Subject: trim
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
Bob Yule.vcf]
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 10:28:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Scandinivan joke NHC
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 5:33party Monday night.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan, NJ
> BT7, Harley,and a big assed boat
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 10:49:50 EST
Subject: Stock Wheel sizes
Thanks in advance--michael
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 16:06:16 -0000
Subject: Re: trim
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@gate-way.net>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 2:14 PM
Subject: trim
> On the BJ8 centre console, between the wooden dash halves. Should this
> panel have any thin padding under the vinyl/leathercloth covering? Or is
the
> trim fabric glued right to the metal? Seems I have seen it both ways.
> As usual, all help is appreciated,
> Bob @ Autofarm
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 13:27:13 -0500
Subject: new engine compression
I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't get much of an increase.
Bummer
Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12 clearance.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 13:32:21 -0500
Subject: BCW 2003
This is an annual pre-springtime reminder about a very special British car
event called British Car Week. This year celebrates the seventh annual British
Car Week, and judging by the various reports I have been receiving from around
the world, there is a lot of enthusiasm toward our little cars. This
enthusiasm comes from all walks of life, spread all over the globe, and it's
great to know that mankind can enjoy a hobby that also helps spread
camaraderie and human kindness toward one another. Thanks to all of the
volunteers who take it upon themselves to help promote this event. Their
efforts are why it continues to grow annually. I believe our hobby is thriving
as much as ever these days, and the success is attributed to the supportive
clubs, helpful businesses, publications, and enthusiastic car owners who are
enjoying all of the many aspects of classic British car motoring.
This year's celebrated week (including both weekends) is scheduled for May 24
through June 1. I'm sure by now most of you are familiar with British Car
Week, but for those who are not, I'll explain. It is an annual awareness week
intended for all British car owners to make an earnest effort to get their
cars out of the garage and onto their local roads as often as possible, and
share their special pride and joy with the rest of their community. Instead of
hoping to spread awareness by attracting people to museums or field meets, we
take the car show to the road for all to see. This will help create an
awareness of our cherished classic automobiles for those who normally wouldn't
be exposed to them. The sights and sounds of these awesome cars will indeed
attract the eye's, ears, and hearts of new enthusiasts, which will help
continue their preservation for many years to come. After all, who could
possibly resist!?
When you get the chance to answer questions about your car to a curious
onlooker, be sure to tell them all about the supportive people, clubs,
businesses, vast selection of parts and supplies, interesting magazines and
books, and most important of all, the never-ending entertainment these cars
provide.
So put on your goggles and driving gloves, and be sure to top off your
dashpots! It's time to have some fun!!
See you on the road,
Scott Helms
BritCarWeek@arczip.com
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 11:32:26 -0800
Subject: Re: new engine compression
It couldn't be something as simple as mis adjusted valves that don't
close fully, could it, he asked hopefully?
-Roland
{reply directly to Ryan failed to be delivered}
On Sun, 9 Mar 2003 13:27:13 -0500, you wrote:
::I checked my compression today and found it to be 20 to 30 lbs per cylinder.
::Pretty pathetic. Could this be because of the new rings? If so, how can I get
::enough compression to start it? I am going to try ether (engine start in a
::can), but it seems pretty low.
::
::I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't get much of an increase.
::
::Bummer
::
::Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12 clearance.
::
::Ryan
::BJ7
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 13:51:52 -0600
Subject: Re: new engine compression
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> I checked my compression today and found it to be 20 to 30 lbs per
cylinder.
> Pretty pathetic. Could this be because of the new rings? If so, how can I
get
> enough compression to start it? I am going to try ether (engine start in a
> can), but it seems pretty low.
>
> I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't get much of an
increase.
>
> Bummer
>
> Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12 clearance.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 15:10:19 EST
Subject: Re: new engine compression
Sounds like it almost HAS to be valves (or rather, the valve action - THEY
may be set OK, but you could have cam/crank relationship out of whack).
Is timing chain on correctly, so that cam and crank are 'in phase'?
Is distributor installed properly?
How/when did you set valves? Remember there are TWO TDC occurrences for #1
piston, at the end of the exhaust stroke, and at the end of the compression
stroke, you want to fire just before the latter, and, you also want to adjust
both valves at that point, when you know the lifters are COMPLETELY off the
cam lobes.
Published instructions for valve adjustment sequence CAN be confusing. Once
you KNOW chain and distributor are installed correctly, you can, by following
the firing order, use the distributor rotor to indicate which cylinder is
firing; then you can do both valves for that cylinder at the same time. It is
very easy to make a little cardboard ring to go around the distributor,
marked at 6 equal spots.
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 13:28:54 -0800
Subject: Removal of starting nut 100-4
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 16:31:48 EST
Subject: Re: BCW 2003
> This year's celebrated week (including both weekends) is scheduled for May
> 24
> through June 1. I'm sure by now most of you are familiar with British Car
> Week, but for those who are not,
Scott--
We're having a rallye and picnic on June 1st.
Please click on the following link: <A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/";>British Car Week Rally & Picnic in
Maryland</A>
or visit the website at: http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/
Bring your family, tell your friends, get it on your club's calendar and
please ATTEND!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 17:47:23 EST
Subject: Re: fuse box
> Michael--I looked over the notebook I keep on all the BN1 updates and I find
> that as I thought, I had not fused the headlight circuits
John--
I fused mine before the dip switch with just one fuse, my thinking being that
headlights may fail but seldom cause short circuits that would take out the
whole system, (though of course such optimism argues against fusing the
circuit in the first place). FWIW, I have my two Lucas driving lights and
the sidelights on separate circuits as well, so even if going down that
"Dark Mountain Road" all would not be lost. I might be left in the position
of having to find and fix a short but at least I would not need a whole new
wiring harness.
Now, get in that car and start driving East--I'll see you on the track at
Conclave's Summit Point Speed Events.
Best--Michael
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 18:14:34 -0600
Subject: Oil Dipstick Length
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 16:14:21 -0800
Subject: michelin zx pressure
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 17:41:37 -0700
Subject: Radial tire pressure for rdavies
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 18:47:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Dipstick Length
Thanks,
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 6:25 PM
Subject: RE: Oil Dipstick Length
> Chris:
> I just measured mine.
> 17.25 inches and a hair. However, it's supposed to have a thin rubber
washer
> Moss calls a dust cap 031-220 which I had put on a few months ago and just
> discovered has fallen off.
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 4:15 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Oil Dipstick Length
>
>
> How long should the dipstick be on a BJ8, from the tip to the stop? What
> about the tube that is pressed into the block...how far should it stick
out?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 18:51:53 -0600
Subject: Re: michelin zx pressure
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 18:57:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of starting nut 100-4
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 19:59:06 EST
Subject: Door trim question
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(sale pending)
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 17:44:29 -0800
Subject: Re: michelin zx pressure
I run my zx (tubeless) Michelins at 32 to 34 psi. If you look on the
sidewall you will see that the "maximum pressure is 50 psi". Given
that number, I would suggest you experiment and see what pressure or
pressures give you the handling and the ride you like best.
Personally, I would worry about underinflation and wearing of the
outer edges of treads at less than 28 psi unless you hardly ever drive
on curvy roads. (I can't go 100 feet out of my driveway without
encountering energetic curves.)
ZX tires will wear so long that your major tire life factor will be
age unless they are drastically underinflated.
-Roland
On Sun, 9 Mar 2003 16:14:21 -0800, rdavies@cox.net wrote:
::I did a search on google and in our archives for the proper tire pressure on
::my tubeless michelin ZX 175R 15's on my BJ8 wires. Anyone know the numbers
::in psi please?
::Thanks
::Ron
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 17:59:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: new engine compression
Sounds like your crank cog and your camshaft cog
(gear) are incorrectly aligned. You probably put the
timing chain on incorrectly. That's about the only
thing that can cause this. Take your timing chain
cover off and make sure the links are counted
correctly and in line with the dots on the cogs. Also
make sure you have new woodruff keys to set the cogs
on the cam and crank.
Also... are your piston rings too small? has the
motor been bored out and you put in Std. rings? This
might cause this as well... although the compression
is so low I think it's your timing chain.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I checked my compression today and found it to be 20
> to 30 lbs per cylinder.
> Pretty pathetic. Could this be because of the new
> rings? If so, how can I get
> enough compression to start it? I am going to try
> ether (engine start in a
> can), but it seems pretty low.
>
> I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't
> get much of an increase.
>
> Bummer
>
> Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12
> clearance.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 21:49:12 -0500
Subject: RE: New Engine, good spark, wont start
As many have commented it is possible that the cam timing is incorrect.
For a quick check remove the valve (rocker) cover and check the tappet
(valve) clearances.
Now turn the engine to the point where the timing pointer and the mark
on the front pulley line up. That will be # 1 top dead centre.
At that point both valves on #1 cylinder OR #6 cylinder should be
partially open. (this is called overlap).
If this is not the case the cam timing is wrong.
When the cam timing is correct the keys on both the crank and the cam
should be at the top (vertical) at the same time at some point when the
engine is rotated but to check that you have to remove the front pulley
and the timing chain cover.:-(
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: 8-Mar-03 10:34 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: New Engine, good spark, wont start
Folks:
I figured out what was wrong with my coil (the wiring harness has the
ground
side of the coil sharing a wire to something random-- I bypassed it and
get a
good spark).
Now I have a good spark, fuel pump gives good pressure, new carbs, choke
on,
valves timed, medium to reasonable compression with new rings (loose
thumb
over the spark plug hole can feel the pressure, but a firmly pressed
thumb can
stop all air escape), static timed to open at TDC, points gapped, good
oil
pressure... what else?
I guess I'll try a can of quick start into the carburetors next. Not
sure what
else to do.
Any suggestions?
Ryan
BJ7
not quite frustrated yet, but getting close. :)
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 18:53:55 -0800
Subject: AHA Elections Brunch
Sorry to NOT to see those who (whom) did not attend.
Hope more members (non members) attend Calif Healey Week May 1-4
KirkKvam
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 22:04:01 -0500
Subject: Winter wondering
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 20:40:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil Dipstick Length
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Dipstick Length
> Hmmm...well, whatever I have is not for a BJ8 then. This dipstick
measures
> 12 inches from tip to stop. So, I need to add some length here. 17.25
> inches total, so how far from the tip are the markings for full and low,
so
> I can actually tell when it is full.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
> To: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 6:25 PM
> Subject: RE: Oil Dipstick Length
>
>
> > Chris:
> > I just measured mine.
> > 17.25 inches and a hair. However, it's supposed to have a thin rubber
> washer
> > Moss calls a dust cap 031-220 which I had put on a few months ago and
just
> > discovered has fallen off.
> > Ron
> > 67 BJ8
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
> > Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 4:15 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Oil Dipstick Length
> >
> >
> > How long should the dipstick be on a BJ8, from the tip to the stop?
What
> > about the tube that is pressed into the block...how far should it stick
> out?
> >
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 21:12:51 -0800
Subject: Re: michelin zx pressure
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 21:08:35 -0800
Subject: Re: michelin zx pressure
To do this. I check tread depth every six months. The depth is measured at
the inner edge, center, and outer edge of the tire. I believe that maximum
life will be achieved if maximum tread is contacting the road. Therefore,
the tire should wear evenly across the tread. If the edges are wearing
faster than the center, they are under inflated. If the center is wearing
faster than the edges, they are over inflated. I measure every six months
and adjust as necessary.
Any wierd patterns of wear would probably be the result of alignment and/or
suspension problems.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 4:14 PM
Subject: michelin zx pressure
> I did a search on google and in our archives for the proper tire pressure
on
> my tubeless michelin ZX 175R 15's on my BJ8 wires. Anyone know the numbers
> in psi please?
> Thanks
> Ron
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 00:38:44 -0500
Subject: Car Q, not Healey Q
I have heard mention of the 3rd and 4th generation of the f-body cars. These
are Camaro, Trans Am, etc. But what years make up the 3rd and 4th
generation?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 01:31:37 EST
Subject: Re: Winter wondering
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 09:32:10 +0100
Subject: Re: Winter wondering
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 02:22:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: recommendations for ID Plates for an early BN1
I'm looking to have a complete set of ID plates made
for my early BN1, including the plastic left footwell
plate.
Does anyone have a recommendation as to the best
supplier to have this done? I am particularly
interested in making sure the number stampings and
engravings match the original style.
I would assume that AH Spares probably has all of the
original number stamps and such, but I may be wrong.
Please let me know who will do the best job of
providing this stuff as original.
Thanks!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: kags@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:47:20 EST
Subject: Re: recommendations for ID Plates for an early BN1
> I'm looking to have a complete set of ID plates made
> for my early BN1, including the plastic left footwell
> plate.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as to the best
> supplier to have this done
Contact Clarke Spares & Restorations,
email clarkespares@worldnet.att.ne
Tel: (215) 348-0595
If you're looking for nice work this is where you'll get it. You will have
to provide some documentaton that you own the car concerned for what amounts
to the VIN # plate. They also have an interesting catalogue of small
parts--mostly MG.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 07:24:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Winter wondering
> Stephen
> Routing two brake circuits through one servo would not do the trick. I
would
> think that you would need to use a master cylinder that had a servo
attached,
> like the later MGB, which would be very difficult to fit into the
available
> space, in order to accomplish this.
> The second way would be to mount two remote servos, one for each circuit.
> Seems to me that I have seen that setup on another LBC, perhaps a Sunbeam
> Tiger. Can't remember...
> Perry
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:42:56 -0500
Subject: Re: new engine compression
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 1:27 PM
Subject: new engine compression
> I checked my compression today and found it to be 20 to 30 lbs per
cylinder.
> Pretty pathetic. Could this be because of the new rings? If so, how can I
get
> enough compression to start it? I am going to try ether (engine start in a
> can), but it seems pretty low.
>
> I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't get much of an
increase.
>
> Bummer
>
> Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12 clearance.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 06:57:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 12:14 PM
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
> Hi Bob,
>
> Despite the big fuss when lead free fuel was coming in I have yet to see
> a Healey with a burnt exhaust valve or seat that I could attribute to
> unleaded fuel.
> In fact we used to change a lot of MGB heads with cracked valve seats
> and burned exhaust valves before leaded gas vanished and since that time
> we have seen very few. Could be attributable to the lower mileages
> people are doing in their LBCs these days but we most certainly have not
> seen an increase in exhaust valve problems.
> I would be interested to hear from other shop operatoes of their
> experiences.
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:01:49 -0000
Subject: Sightings of Healeys in videos
Reference the periodic discussions re Healeys in films and videos, I can't
remember these coming up, although the first has been out for many years.
I noticed these Healeys during the weekend watching video channels on Sky:
1. Tears for Fears - Everybody Wants to Rule the World' - LHD BRG Mark III.
Quite a long sequence shot from alongside and above the car.
2. Will Young - (remake of the Door's) Light My Fire - front shot (Mark III?)
crossing the spindly Albert Bridge across the River Thames. (This video is in
Black and White to give that 'period' feel!)
Regards
Paul
(Longbridge BN4)
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 07:05:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
> It is my understanding that this problem occurs more often in Hundreds
than
> in the other big Healeys. It is also my understanding that if the Bronze
> guides or Bronze sleeves are used that they should be first reamed to
maximum
> factory specs on the large end and that a release should be put in just
like
> the original steel guides. This should eliminate the problem.
>
> I had the problem at first in the first hundred miles (with my Hunderd)
and
> took these steps. No problems since, but only a few (500) hundred miles.
> And yes, the car has gotten quite warm a few times with no problems.
>
> I also had hardened seats and bronze guides (without the modifications)
put
> in my BJ8, after 12,000 never a problem and that car ran quite hot in
> traffic. Did the same to the BT7 and after 3000-4000 miles, no problems.
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 07:40:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Trim
I recently pulled the trim material off my 66 BJ8 console.
1. Sides had thin foam (1/8) behind the vinyl.
2. vertical facia had thin foam behind the vinyl down to the bottom of the
radio opening.
3. horizontal area (Up though the curve to the radio opening) had No foam
(vinyl glued directly to metal).
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
Going to the body shop for final paint TODAY!
New Cooper S hopefully here friday!
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From Joe Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 00:27:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Roger Menadue
> Dear All,
> This evening I have spoken to Roger's Daughter.
> Roger is still in hospital. He is being monitered and having plenty of care
> and attention.
>
> Will update again at the weekend
> Mell Ward
> Austin Healey Club UK
>
Mell,
Thankyou for your updates on that wonderfull personality,Roger.It
seems so out of character for him to be 'out of service'.As the first employee
of D.M.H.he spent his whole life giving to the development of Healeys.I believe
he was the only one to challenge Donald,in fact it was Roger that pushed for the
100 to be shown at Earl's Court when D.M.H. was not satisfied with the
grille.Given that Roger and his small team of skilled workers hand built Gerry
Coker's beautiflu body he was too proud to miss a showing.
Roger hand built all the Development and Competition cars and is proud
of Healeys first attempt at LeMans being more successful than Mercedes,Jaguar
and Aston Martin on a much smaller budget. Geoff and Roger had a special respect
for each other because they were 'hands on men'.Even when Donald and Roger
retired from the production 'stuff' he and Donald continued with more 'special
stuff',military cameras and race cars etc.His cars were the 'Best British' cars
to finish in 1967 & 68 with the all alloy [can this really be a ] Sprite . His
special tuning technique was to climb the same local hill with a stopwatch ,
making adjustments until he achieved the shortest elapsed time---- simple.
Who else would have an old LeMans car as his fishing boat tow car .When
I last visited him there were roof racks on his current car still.
For all the time he has given to the Healey movement around the world he
has never asked for much.So if there is one wish we could grant to him it must
be a speedy recovery,good health and get that twinkle back in your eye.
ALL THE BEST,YOU DESERVE IT.
Joe.
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 11:09:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Sightings of Healeys in videos
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 9:01 AM
Subject: Sightings of Healeys in videos
> Hi all
>
> Reference the periodic discussions re Healeys in films and videos, I can't
remember these coming up, although the first has been out for many years.
>
> I noticed these Healeys during the weekend watching video channels on Sky:
>
> 1. Tears for Fears - Everybody Wants to Rule the World' - LHD BRG Mark
III. Quite a long sequence shot from alongside and above the car.
>
> 2. Will Young - (remake of the Door's) Light My Fire - front shot (Mark
III?) crossing the spindly Albert Bridge across the River Thames. (This
video is in Black and White to give that 'period' feel!)
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> (Longbridge BN4)
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:51:12 -0800
Subject: RE: Oil Dipstick Length
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 11:54:29 -0500
Subject: recommendations for ID Plates for an early BN1
Try Clarke Spares and Restorations in PA. Number is 215-348-0595. They did
all the plates on my BJ8 and I'm very happy with them.
They have the body and engine plates but you must supply the VIN plate and
they stamp them as original. Not sure about the plastic footwell plate.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 12:23:10 EST
Subject: Re: Sightings of Healeys in videos
http://wind.prohosting.com/gchc/
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 09:29:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Q, not Healey Q
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:05:06 -0500
Subject: Re: recommendations for ID Plates for an early BN1
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 11:54 AM
Subject: recommendations for ID Plates for an early BN1
| Alan,
|
| Try Clarke Spares and Restorations in PA. Number is 215-348-0595. They did
| all the plates on my BJ8 and I'm very happy with them.
| They have the body and engine plates but you must supply the VIN plate and
| they stamp them as original. Not sure about the plastic footwell plate.
|
| Scot
| '66 BJ8
|
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:21:53 -0500
Subject: Need paint equipment input.
I'm considering buying an HVLP system to paint my chassis. I know a lot of
you have considerable painting experience and I would really appreciate some
feedback on this subject. Any particular models, features, etc??? What
about the particular methods and/or paints and sealers you used? I'm pretty
certain at this point I'm going to go with Healey blue. As always, any help
is appreciated.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 13:30:23 -0500
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
I have found that the "O" ring type seal, used for "A", "B" and "C"
series engines has been quite successful when correctly installed.
IMHO most of the problems occur when installers just slide the "O" ring
over the valve stem then install the springs, collets and retainers
without realizing that the seal is supposed to be installed is such a
manner that it stops oil seeping down between the collet halves.
Dave is actually making an observation about "umbrella" type seals which
as far as I'm aware were never fitted as original equipment on BMC
engines and I can confirm absolutely do not work and seem to increase
leakage down the guide.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of frogeye
Sent: 10-Mar-03 9:05 AM
To: HealeyHundred@aol.com; kags@shaw.ca
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Just an observation....Most head problems in Healeys are related to the
pathetic umbrella style oil seals. They leak excessive oil down the
valve
stems and then form gooey crude in the port area and stick, greatly
hurting
performance.When any owner has guides installed he/she should have the
machine shop cut shoulders on the guides and install positive seal
modern
seals........
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
> It is my understanding that this problem occurs more often in Hundreds
than
> in the other big Healeys. It is also my understanding that if the
Bronze
> guides or Bronze sleeves are used that they should be first reamed to
maximum
> factory specs on the large end and that a release should be put in
just
like
> the original steel guides. This should eliminate the problem.
>
> I had the problem at first in the first hundred miles (with my
Hunderd)
and
> took these steps. No problems since, but only a few (500) hundred
miles.
> And yes, the car has gotten quite warm a few times with no problems.
>
> I also had hardened seats and bronze guides (without the
modifications)
put
> in my BJ8, after 12,000 never a problem and that car ran quite hot in
> traffic. Did the same to the BT7 and after 3000-4000 miles, no
problems.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:51:01 -0800
Subject: "California Healey Week"
A reminder,
The Austin Healey Association of So. California, is holding
it's annual event known as "California Healey Week" (CHW)
at the Quails Inn on Lake San Marcos (North. San Diego)
California. May 1-4, (Thur-Sun)
Contact: Gill Daab (Club President) for registration form.
(909) 820-4940
gldab1@juno.com
(Registration requested by April 1, 2003.)
(Event Regalia order requested by April 1. 2003.)
The Quails Inn Hotel and Resort
(800) 447-6556
www.Quailsinn.com for venue description.
Tennis courts, Paddle boating etc, etc.
Golf at Lake San Marcos CC and over a dozen PGA
golf courses in the area including the world famous
Torry Pines Golf Course overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
See ya there or be square, we're gonna have lots-a-fun,
witcha or witoutcha.
Kirk Kvam
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:02:07 -0500
Subject: Re:Re: Winter wondering
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 12:04:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'frogeye'" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
> Hi Dave,
>
> I have found that the "O" ring type seal, used for "A", "B" and "C"
> series engines has been quite successful when correctly installed.
> IMHO most of the problems occur when installers just slide the "O" ring
> over the valve stem then install the springs, collets and retainers
> without realizing that the seal is supposed to be installed is such a
> manner that it stops oil seeping down between the collet halves.
>
> Dave is actually making an observation about "umbrella" type seals which
> as far as I'm aware were never fitted as original equipment on BMC
> engines and I can confirm absolutely do not work and seem to increase
> leakage down the guide.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of frogeye
> Sent: 10-Mar-03 9:05 AM
> To: HealeyHundred@aol.com; kags@shaw.ca
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
>
> Just an observation....Most head problems in Healeys are related to the
> pathetic umbrella style oil seals. They leak excessive oil down the
> valve
> stems and then form gooey crude in the port area and stick, greatly
> hurting
> performance.When any owner has guides installed he/she should have the
> machine shop cut shoulders on the guides and install positive seal
> modern
> seals........
>
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> To: <kags@shaw.ca>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 1:07 PM
> Subject: Re: Bronze valve guides (Long and technical, but important)
>
>
> > It is my understanding that this problem occurs more often in Hundreds
> than
> > in the other big Healeys. It is also my understanding that if the
> Bronze
> > guides or Bronze sleeves are used that they should be first reamed to
> maximum
> > factory specs on the large end and that a release should be put in
> just
> like
> > the original steel guides. This should eliminate the problem.
> >
> > I had the problem at first in the first hundred miles (with my
> Hunderd)
> and
> > took these steps. No problems since, but only a few (500) hundred
> miles.
> > And yes, the car has gotten quite warm a few times with no problems.
> >
> > I also had hardened seats and bronze guides (without the
> modifications)
> put
> > in my BJ8, after 12,000 never a problem and that car ran quite hot in
> > traffic. Did the same to the BT7 and after 3000-4000 miles, no
> problems.
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:47:23 EST
Subject: Re: Winter wondering
Mal
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:32:09 -0800
Subject: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:04:01 -0600
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:21:04 EST
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 17:25:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
Did you tap down the lock washer on the dog nut? I
fyou don't do this, it will be very difficult to
remove the dognut.
If your clutch is slipping, you probably have to
remove the motor to get the dog nut off. You might
try an impact wrench (if you do this make sure the
gearbox is not engaged) ... but to do this you'll have
to remove the radiator.
Are you turning the nut the correct way? If I'm not
mistaken... isn't the dognut reverse threaded? Be
sure you are turning the dognut in the direction
opposite to the dognut catch, as it will be threaded
opposite whichever way the nut was designed to be
cranked by hand.
Regards & good luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> have tried 4th gear with parking brake and clutch
> slips should I go
> ahead and pull motor anyway,fabricate breaker bar
> for rear of
> crank.heat nut and attempt removal on motor stand
> ,thanx JQ
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:49:33 -0500
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
I inadvertently spun off the dog nut on the front of the crank, and in the
process sheared the lockwasher tab, when I forgot I had a wrench on the nut
and hit the starter button on the back of the solenoid. I was using the
wrench to turn the engine to adjust the valves.
The wrench turned until it hit the inner splash shield, then stopped; but the
engine kept turning and did the deed. Fortunately, the wrench didn't make a
mark on the car. If I were going to try this on purpose, I would knock back
the locking tab on the washer, put on the wrench, then turn the engine until
the wrench handle was blocked by a piece of wood, then hit the starter.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 7:32 PM
Subject: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
have tried 4th gear with parking brake and clutch slips should I go
ahead and pull motor anyway,fabricate breaker bar for rear of
crank.heat nut and attempt removal on motor stand ,thanx JQ
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:08:55 -0600
Subject: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
No need to heat the nut. When you have the engine out of the car, use a
3/4 inch or 1 inch drive impact wrench (you may need an adapter for the 1
and 11/16 inch socket). If you do not have access to one, you can probably
rent it. Best regards. Jim
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:34:26 -0700
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
A striking wrench is what you are looking for. They are used on large
machinery for obvious reasons. A few blows from a large hammer will
apply more force to a nut than a 10 ft. bar will. A poor man's impact
wrench.
See this link for examples.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/ozat/strkwrin.html Kind of expensive though
at $55 for the 1 11/16 size that you need. At least this will give you
an idea of one way to do it.
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> have tried 4th gear with parking brake and clutch slips should I go
> ahead and pull motor anyway,fabricate breaker bar for rear of
> crank.heat nut and attempt removal on motor stand ,thanx JQ
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 19:28:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Patterns for Heat Shields
Adnan Merchant made a CAD file for a BJ8 that can be used with an automated
cutter. I have not seen any posts from him for quite sometime though.
John
'62 BT7
At 08:25 AM 3/1/03 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>A question for the collective:
>
>Has anyone documented the heat shield dimensions??
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:53:42 -0500
Subject: RE: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
4th gear is better, less mechanical advantage to the rear wheels, but
just applying a steady force probably will not get Jonathan where he
wants to go.
To undo the crank nut you have to make use of the inertia of the crank
and flywheel.
The correct tool is illustrated on page T24 of the 6 cylinder W S manual
and is described as:
"A "shock type" spanner designed to enable the starting dognut to be
removed without locking the crankshaft."
The trick is to use a large hammer and this special spanner to remove or
tighten the dog nut.
I have 2 of them and they are indispensable.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Sent: 10-Mar-03 7:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
have tried 4th gear with parking brake and clutch slips should I go
ahead and pull motor anyway,fabricate breaker bar for rear of
crank.heat nut and attempt removal on motor stand ,thanx JQ
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 22:03:35 EST
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 22:05:37 EST
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 22:09:09 EST
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
> "slugging wrenches". We use them alot in the nuclear maintenance field.
That is certainly reassuring!
Best--Michael
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 22:59:33 -0500
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
CB
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:48:42 -0600
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
Cheers,
Chris (aka Homer in disguise)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
> "Nuclear" - Homer Simpson, where art thou?? Would he drive a Healey??
>
> CB
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:24:23 -0800
Subject: Re: "California Healey Week"
Map: located between the 5 freeway and the 15 freeway on State route 78 (see
link
below).
South of orange county and north of San Diego. about 5 hours from Phoenix.
http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?addtohistory=&country=US&address=&city=san+marcos&state=ca&zipcode=&historyid=&submit.x=33&submit.y=10
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Kirk Kvam wrote:
> To all,
> A reminder,
> The Austin Healey Association of So. California, is holding
> it's annual event known as "California Healey Week" (CHW)
> at the Quails Inn on Lake San Marcos (North. San Diego)
> California. May 1-4, (Thur-Sun)
>
> Contact: Gill Daab (Club President) for registration form.
> (909) 820-4940 gldab1@juno.com
> (Registration requested by April 1, 2003.)
> (Event Regalia order requested by April 1. 2003.)
>
> The Quails Inn Hotel and Resort
> (800) 447-6556
> www.Quailsinn.com for venue description.
> Tennis courts, Paddle boating etc, etc.
> Golf at Lake San Marcos CC and over a dozen PGA
> golf courses in the area including the world famous
> Torry Pines Golf Course overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
> Kirk Kvam
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From "Jim Wojcik" <jwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 23:33:12 -0600
Subject: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:46:24 -0800
Subject: Donut Derelicts
http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?pan=n&mapdata=jZ2g%2b%2fXW8V9yf9MzYK2Dkh5mPaT7CXewuF1uElQ8dLOI%2fOIo0gXfs3rG%2fNerpy6lPI1fIK8dC8GpVPG%2fcx3Yyd4K%2fmxg%2bMDI01163GvCMx362Zsqqexc6WdBFrcqJKI%2fO34syl4K5ORA27M7lwxEQhxgJkUmGCwcil4%2bLQnaAjBkNkPeQD0nJaDMNsVu4kZIAkG55rZMzdf5sY2j0EpOadjRrOY9ViBlA6RGIPIuTVijGLG531vOy6fc3Pt3swkkzgI26aLDipZewPbVtbKgh06zsXMexBbRN574GGcqZI%2fHhPKkXINeM%2f1eJZDb7%2fzWTwmWPjcIuI5N1Ekv%2fMU8cqZjhwdm1mkDYdbybyt9uJPD%2bWJjif6f1fEgwIONUqEQ%2fgp2Z8I3Pkb8TpH%2bUw5uTA%3d%3d
405 freeway to Brookhust.
south to adams
west to magnolia
Ron Rader
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:56:16 -0800
Subject: RE: new engine compression
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Ryan: If you truly set your valves at .12 then that's your problem. I
> have never seen a feeler gage that big! Should .012.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > I checked my compression today and found it to be 20 to 30 lbs per
> cylinder.
> > Pretty pathetic. Could this be because of the new rings? If so,
> how can I
> get
> > enough compression to start it? I am going to try ether (engine
> start in a
> > can), but it seems pretty low.
> >
> > I sprayed alot of oil into one cylinder and didn't get much of an
> increase.
> >
> > Bummer
> >
> > Any ideas? The valves all have been set with .12 clearance.
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 23:05:42 -0700
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
Bill Lawrence
Michael Salter wrote:
> Actually no Simon,
>
> 4th gear is better, less mechanical advantage to the rear wheels, but
> just applying a steady force probably will not get Jonathan where he
> wants to go.
>
> To undo the crank nut you have to make use of the inertia of the crank
> and flywheel.
>
> The correct tool is illustrated on page T24 of the 6 cylinder W S manual
> and is described as:
>
> "A "shock type" spanner designed to enable the starting dognut to be
> removed without locking the crankshaft."
>
> The trick is to use a large hammer and this special spanner to remove or
> tighten the dog nut.
>
> I have 2 of them and they are indispensable.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 06:24:44 -0800
Subject: Steering Wheel
Does anyone out there have experience w/ the reproduction steering wheels
available from Moss or Hemphill? Quality, appearance, ect? (Apparently
Victoria British only sells non-original type units.) A friend is interested
in buying one.
Or, does anyone have a very good quality used one for sale?
John Snyder
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 06:33:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Donut Derelicts
As I mentioned in one note there was a '32 Alpha worth supposedly a cool
7million $$. Last week there were two original Cobras, a Works Healey and
mine. At least that's what I thought it was. It was red, 50's, and had a
raised crease down the hood. Looked like one I read about once. Anyone on
the list owning it? Eric Hoopengarner has brought his award winning 100M
several times also. Someone brought a nasty boy two weeks ago. Jags, MGs an
Alpha and an open Starbucks. There will be a spot for breakfast opening
soon.
It is more refined as it starts at 7:15ish and goes until 9:30. Warmer, more
light and more parking. Bicyclists who used to ride non-stop up and down PCH
now pause to walk through the cars.
It started with four cars 8 weeks ago. A friend and I saw them and stopped
by. We've gone every weekend since and it has literally doubled each time to
last week's 200. There was even one of those amphibious cars. Each week
people actually take pictures of my BJ8. Very ego satisfying. The interest
in the Healey is very strong among the other muscle cars. Everyone either
had one or their dad had one or their room mate had one :-)
It is situated in a beautiful srip of PCH between Newport Coast (Corona del
Mar) and Laguna Beach.
If you go to the Donut Shop be sure to come to this afterwards. (I've
stopped going to the Donut Shop). Having to get a space before the sun comes
up is really nasty. The Donut Shop is an old but clean strip mall. Crystal
Cove is a new gazillion dollar palm tree lined ocean view paradise in
comparison. I expect this to continue as the local businesses are booming.
Directions: from the North....405 S to the 73Toll Road. Get off at Newport
Coast Road and head towards the ocean.
Turn left at Pacific Coast Hwy. Go about 3 miles. Look for the Date Shack
"Open All Year" sign on your right (ocean) and the first light you can turn
LEFT at is the shopping center entrance. After turning left into the complex
make a quick RIGHT and follow your eyes and ears 200 yards to the cars. It
has been expanding so fast that it may be only 100 yards this week.
If you miss the LEFT turn you will see the cars shorty on your left but
don't be tempted to cross the double yellow and enter illegally as there is
a police presence. You'll have to drive to the next signal and make a U
turn.
Coming from the South: Take 73 Toll North and exit Newport Coast. It is a
longish exit. When you get to the bottom and the stoplight, turn LEFT, it
curves up and to the right towards the ocean. The rest of the directions
apply.
Here is an area map from where you can get directions to the Starbucks at
Crystal Cove Promenade:
http://www.irvinecompany.com/shop/crystalcove/crystal_stores/Map.asp?id=1233
&cat=73&list=alpha&s=
The drive up and down Newport Coast to Pacific Coast Hwy alone is worth the
drive. Very pretty. Lots of places to go up and down PCH for breakfast
afterwards which is not the case at the Donut Shop.
See you there :-)
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Rader [mailto:rader@interworld.net]
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 9:46 PM
To: List, E Type; List, Healey
Cc: Bloomer, Larry S.; Ciszekd, Ken; Davies, Ron; Ekberg, Hanne & Craig;
Hammerstein, Bill; Jaap, James; Johnson, Ron; Nelson, Bruce; Tamkin,
Jeff; Tanihara, Sharon; 1Nichols, Deborah J.
Subject: Donut Derelicts
Car Nuts:
I was thinking about going down to the Donuts for Derelicts this Saturday
morning, March 15th.
That would be the Donut shop on the corner of Adams and Magnolia in
Huntington
Beach.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 11:11:06 -0500
Subject: Re: unsuccessful attempt starting nut
Jim, is this advisable for those of us who Little League batting averages of
0.105?
Keith Pennell
Good fielder though
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 10:52:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
John Snyder wrote:
>Hello List,
>
>Does anyone out there have experience w/ the reproduction steering wheels
>available from Moss or Hemphill? Quality, appearance, ect? (Apparently
>Victoria British only sells non-original type units.) A friend is interested
>in buying one.
>
>Or, does anyone have a very good quality used one for sale?
>
>John Snyder
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 13:44:36 EST
Subject: tire recommendation
I recently purchased some chrome wire wheels for the BJ8 I am looking for
suggestions as to the best tires to mount on them. I currently have 165
R15's on it. I will mostly be road driving it, not racing, but I like to
drive it aggressively (don't we all) so I want something with some bite to
it. I saw the thread in the inflation of the Michelin zx 175R15's Is this a
good choice or should I look at others.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 11:45:13 -0800
Subject: Austin Wanted!!!
Mike Van Der Berg in Texas is looking for a car like the car his folks had
in South Africa when he was but a wee lad. It is a 1957-1959 Austin
Cambridge (some sold as Cambrians in the States because of a trademark
infringment with Plymouth).
He will pay a fair price for the nicest of cars - Don't all call at once!!!
- He also might consider a similar "Westminster" 6 cylinder car. Bring 'em
ON!!!
Thanks, please contact Mike directly at 817-336-2409 or email:
m.vanderberg@sbcglobal.net
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice Beach, CA
-----------------------------------
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 11:46:05 -0800
Subject: Austin Diff Wanted!!!
Randolph Williams of Marina del Rey, Ca writes in to see if anyone out
there in British Carland has a 4:22 diff for an Austin Healey BN1 - He
needs this for a 1949 Austin A40 Van project that he is working on. He has
a decent 6:1 diff to trade if you are into vintage racing or stump pulling.
Thanks, please contact Randy directly at 310-827-2727 or email:
MorrisMinor1000@aol.com
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice Beach, CA
-----------------------------------
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 19:49:20 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue update No 8
I have just been speaking to Roger's Daughter.
Roger has been moved to a much smaller hospital.
Today when his Daughter visited, he was a little brighter.
He seemed to be responding and was much more contented.
His Daughter said this was the best he has been since he went into hospital..
He still has a long way to go, but we know he he getting the best care and
attention he requires.
Will update again at the weekend
Mell Ward
Midland Centre
UK Club
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 16:38:50 -0600
Subject: Re: tire recommendation
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 18:19:55 EST
Subject: Re: tire recommendation
The Michelin 175X15 ZX tire would be just fine on your BJ8. These tires fill
the wheel well fine. You could go to 185X70X15 if you do a lot of aggressive
driving.
I run 165X15 Michelins on my BN4 because the 175X15 do not fit in the wheel
wheel well. They scrape when cornering. This should not be any problem with
your BJ8.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 16:09:29 -0800
Subject: Victory is Mine!
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:24:14 -0700
Subject: Tire recommendation
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 19:22:39 -0500
Subject: Re: tire recommendation
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 1:44 PM
Subject: tire recommendation
> Hi listers:
>
> I recently purchased some chrome wire wheels for the BJ8 I am looking for
> suggestions as to the best tires to mount on them. I currently have 165
> R15's on it. I will mostly be road driving it, not racing, but I like to
> drive it aggressively (don't we all) so I want something with some bite to
> it. I saw the thread in the inflation of the Michelin zx 175R15's Is
this a
> good choice or should I look at others.
>
> TIA
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 19:42:51 EST
Subject: Tire Seller recommendation
When I purchased new wheels from BWW about five years ago for my 100 I had
them mount, balance and true a set of tires. I was very pleased with their
services. I have since done business with Hendrix Wire Wheels as they are a
lot closer to where I live and offer great service as well--I have sent them
wheels via UPS and they have trued them, mounted new tires and turned them
around to me the same day. I've also driven into their shop in Greensboro,
NC for truing and tires and been out of there within three hours. Jerry and
Alan are good people and support our Healey interests.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:14:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: another engine looking to be reborn
The bore is standard (with a decent ridge at the tops
of cyls).
The crank bearings appear to be standard (they have
orig p/ns but no oversize markings).
The oil pan had been removed in the past (it was
painted blue and had dent repairs).
It appears the engine was re-ringed because I could
see old ding marks on one of the journals where the
connecting rod bolts had probably tapped into it
during a rod installation (could that have happened at
the factory?).
Nearly = sludge and rust grit in the oil pan from
poor maintenance prior and then running for at least
20 yrs. The cylinder head was also filled with a =
of crud.
My plan is to pull out all the gallery plugs get the
engine and head completely acid boiled. Hopefully I
wont have a leaking gallery when done. After the
boil out, Im going to immediately brush paint glyptol
paint all over the unmachined cavities and maybe also
the outside to consume the entire qt. This way Ill
have less rust worries during the post machining wash
down and rebuild here next to the Pacific Ocean.
More questions:
Are all commonly available pistons here in North
America manufactured by the same company?
What about engine bearings same or are there
choices?
My goal is to have a typical bore to next size and
same for the crank plus an oil seal conversion. I
will regrind/upgrade the cram and lightly smooth the
head ports and freshen / replace all valve train.
Other than that, I simply want a machine job that
results in running tolerances being met.
Lastly, the Pasadena, CA Healey machinist I was to use
is going to be out for a while. Anyone know of a
reputable place in CA that will do a good job? Ive
unfortunately learned in the past that reputable and
good job dont always go together!
Thanks for any advice, comments or wisdom,
Joe Mulqueen
60 BT7
Torrance, CA
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:27:40 -0800
Subject: Dixon Ca
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:56:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: tire recommendation
the 185/70's work best if you have a 5.5 inch rim. if
it's any narrower (5 inch or 4.5 inch) you should go
with the michelin or equivalent 175x15 in standard
profile.
You're not gonna believe this but I did a search on
the internet and found a healey owner who has the
exact same wheel set up on his BJ8 as mine, you can
see it here:
http://www.strawhatyacht.com/healeysale/spokes.htm
Looks like his healey is mint mint mint!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
> Hi listers:
>
> I recently purchased some chrome wire wheels for the
> BJ8 I am looking for
> suggestions as to the best tires to mount on them.
> I currently have 165
> R15's on it. I will mostly be road driving it, not
> racing, but I like to
> drive it aggressively (don't we all) so I want
> something with some bite to
> it. I saw the thread in the inflation of the
> Michelin zx 175R15's Is this a
> good choice or should I look at others.
>
> TIA
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 13:04:08 -0800
Subject: Bushings???
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 15:43:18 -0500
Subject: Re: new engine compression - Response 1
I've turned the engine over with the valve cover off and both valves for
each cylinder seem to be released when the piston comes up and I get the
hissing of 'compression's. Also the distributor is at the right place. BTW,
the head was rebuilt and the valves look fine and sit snugly in their seats.
QUESTION: What compression should I be getting for new, unseated rings?
Ryan
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 19:16:32 -0800
Subject: Fw: Steering Wheel
The general consensus was that the reproduction steering wheels are very good,
and one person even had a nearly new one that he was looking to sell.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: John Snyder
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 6:24 AM
Subject: Steering Wheel
Hello List,
Does anyone out there have experience w/ the reproduction steering wheels
available from Moss or Hemphill? Quality, appearance, ect? (Apparently
Victoria British only sells non-original type units.) A friend is interested
in buying one.
Or, does anyone have a very good quality used one for sale?
John Snyder
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:11:32 -0700
Subject: Re: new engine compression - Response 1
Sorry for you having such a bad time with the Healey.
Earlier, you said that you had 20 to 30 psi compression & that putting
oil in one cylinder did not help much. Although you didn't put oil in
all cylinders & so can't be positive, it is unlikely that the problem is
ring seating but it "could" be. It would be good for you to put oil in
all cylinders & check compression to be absolutely sure that there are
no ring problems. If oil does not raise the compression to 90 or so,it
almost has to be a valve sealing problem, valve timing, or a serious
gasket problem.
To answer your question, I would expect 90 to 110 psi for new unseated
rings. 20 to 30 is not high enough to run the engine.
Dave Russell
Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
> had the bottom of the engine assembled by the shop. I doubt they made a
> mistake, but I'm not sure.
> I adjusted the valves once using the TDC method and then a second time using
> the rule of 13 - I found a few valves much too loose, but the rest were
> fine.
>
> I've turned the engine over with the valve cover off and both valves for
> each cylinder seem to be released when the piston comes up and I get the
> hissing of 'compression's. Also the distributor is at the right place. BTW,
> the head was rebuilt and the valves look fine and sit snugly in their seats.
>
> QUESTION: What compression should I be getting for new, unseated rings?
>
> Ryan
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:25:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Bushings???
The stock type rubber bushings will give the softest ride & probably
last 50,000 miles, or 15 years at a minimum.
Polyurethane bushings may last longer, will give a harsher ride, & more
precise handling.
Nylatron bushings will give a hard ride, probably last the longest, &
will give the ultimate in precision handling for a race car.
It is a matter of preference, a trade off between comfort, precision, &
durability. Polyurethane would be the middle ground. I personally prefer
the rubber bushings. The original bushings are still in my car at 80,000
miles & show no signs of deterioration.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> OK, now I am deep into restoring my front end (BN7). I need
> suggestions or comments about what type of bushings to buy. There seems
> to be three, rubber, Polyurethane, and Nylatron. I don't want a racing
> car, just a conformable driver but I don't want to have to replace these
> again in my life time. Any suggestions on what type to use???
> Ron
> BN7
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:19:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Bushings???
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Ron,
>
> The stock type rubber bushings will give the softest ride & probably
> last 50,000 miles, or 15 years at a minimum.
>
> Polyurethane bushings may last longer, will give a harsher ride, & more
> precise handling.
>
> Nylatron bushings will give a hard ride, probably last the longest, &
> will give the ultimate in precision handling for a race car.
>
> It is a matter of preference, a trade off between comfort, precision, &
> durability. Polyurethane would be the middle ground. I personally prefer
> the rubber bushings. The original bushings are still in my car at 80,000
> miles & show no signs of deterioration.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:25:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Donut Derelicts / Crystal cove
rdavies wrote:
> Ron et al:
> The Donut shop is fine and I've been there a dozen times but many of the
> best cars leave by 7am and come to a new spot where last week we had about
> 200 cars. It's the Crystal Cove Promenade shopping center. Every slot in the
> six rows of parking in front of Starbucks was filled and overflowing. see
> map below.
>
> As I mentioned in one note there was a '32 Alpha worth supposedly a cool
> 7million $$. Last week there were two original Cobras, a Works Healey and
> mine. At least that's what I thought it was. It was red, 50's, and had a
> raised crease down the hood. Looked like one I read about once. Anyone on
> the list owning it? Eric Hoopengarner has brought his award winning 100M
> several times also. Someone brought a nasty boy two weeks ago. Jags, MGs an
> Alpha and an open Starbucks. There will be a spot for breakfast opening
> soon.
>
> It is more refined as it starts at 7:15ish and goes until 9:30. Warmer, more
> light and more parking. Bicyclists who used to ride non-stop up and down PCH
> now pause to walk through the cars.
>
> It started with four cars 8 weeks ago. A friend and I saw them and stopped
> by. We've gone every weekend since and it has literally doubled each time to
> last week's 200. There was even one of those amphibious cars. Each week
> people actually take pictures of my BJ8. Very ego satisfying. The interest
> in the Healey is very strong among the other muscle cars. Everyone either
> had one or their dad had one or their room mate had one :-)
>
> It is situated in a beautiful srip of PCH between Newport Coast (Corona del
> Mar) and Laguna Beach.
> If you go to the Donut Shop be sure to come to this afterwards. (I've
> stopped going to the Donut Shop). Having to get a space before the sun comes
> up is really nasty. The Donut Shop is an old but clean strip mall. Crystal
> Cove is a new gazillion dollar palm tree lined ocean view paradise in
> comparison. I expect this to continue as the local businesses are booming.
>
> Directions: from the North....405 S to the 73Toll Road. Get off at Newport
> Coast Road and head towards the ocean.
> Turn left at Pacific Coast Hwy. Go about 3 miles. Look for the Date Shack
> "Open All Year" sign on your right (ocean) and the first light you can turn
> LEFT at is the shopping center entrance. After turning left into the complex
> make a quick RIGHT and follow your eyes and ears 200 yards to the cars. It
> has been expanding so fast that it may be only 100 yards this week.
> If you miss the LEFT turn you will see the cars shorty on your left but
> don't be tempted to cross the double yellow and enter illegally as there is
> a police presence. You'll have to drive to the next signal and make a U
> turn.
>
> Coming from the South: Take 73 Toll North and exit Newport Coast. It is a
> longish exit. When you get to the bottom and the stoplight, turn LEFT, it
> curves up and to the right towards the ocean. The rest of the directions
> apply.
> Here is an area map from where you can get directions to the Starbucks at
> Crystal Cove Promenade:
> http://www.irvinecompany.com/shop/crystalcove/crystal_stores/Map.asp?id=1233
> &cat=73&list=alpha&s=
>
> The drive up and down Newport Coast to Pacific Coast Hwy alone is worth the
> drive. Very pretty. Lots of places to go up and down PCH for breakfast
> afterwards which is not the case at the Donut Shop.
>
> See you there :-)
> Ron Davies
> 67 BJ8
>
> -
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:34:48 -0800
Subject: RE: "California Healey Week"
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:52:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Bushings???
Bear in mind any time you make one part of a Healey--or any machine, for
that matter--stiffer or stronger you transfer more stress to another part. I've
heard of people suffering cracks in the A-arm brackets and the frame itself
from using stiffer suspension parts (I had a couple broken anti-sway bar links
from using polyurethane busings).
Personally, I'd stick with the original style, rubber/steel bushings for the
A-arm. You can probably use the nylon or poly bushings for the upper
king pin trunnion bushes.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> and the rubber does not squeak.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
>
> Dave & Marlene wrote:
>
> > Ron,
> >
> > The stock type rubber bushings will give the softest ride & probably
> > last 50,000 miles, or 15 years at a minimum.
> >
> > Polyurethane bushings may last longer, will give a harsher ride, & more
> > precise handling.
> >
> > Nylatron bushings will give a hard ride, probably last the longest, &
> > will give the ultimate in precision handling for a race car.
> >
> > It is a matter of preference, a trade off between comfort, precision, &
> > durability. Polyurethane would be the middle ground. I personally prefer
> > the rubber bushings. The original bushings are still in my car at 80,000
> > miles & show no signs of deterioration.
> >
> > Dave Russell
> > BN2
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 23:18:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Victory is Mine!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> A 16" crescent and a couple of wacks with the old
> Knockoff hammer (my
> favorite tool) and the starter nut is off. Sometimes
> the manual does
> know what it's talking about. I should have known
> that tools suitable
> for working on steam engines would be ideal for the
> Healey.a striking
> spanner how deliciously esoteric .I suppose I might
> have stopped
> everyone a little bit sooner but I know how easy it
> is to damage these
> things and you all seemed to be having such ripping
> good time .I hope
> to see some of you in Dixon this May for Healeys and
> pinball .You guys
> are tops Jonathan Quandt
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 06:20:07 -0700
Subject: Keith Pennell tire question
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 11:36:51 -0800
Subject: servo problem
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 11:12:42 -0800
Subject: brake servo
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 14:38:40 -0500
Subject: Air Cleaner paint mix for BN-2 (Hammertone)
I recently mixed up a batch of hammertone colors for my air cleaner housings
for a BN-2.
I kept accurate weights of the amounts of the two colors of hammertone and the
tints so that if anyone wants to try this on there own this could be a place
to start.
Hammertone Mid Green 148 grams
Hammertone Silver grey 396 grams
Black tint 14 grams
Yellow tint 16 grams
This mix resulted in a close match, by my eye, to a portion of the air
cleaners where the original color was still intact.
I got the hammertone paint in quarts from Merritt Paint at 800-726-5639.
The tints I got in tube form from my local ACE hardware store.
I used Xylene as a thinner for spraying. There is a special thinner for the
Hammertone paints except it is expensive to ship due to the flammability. The
Hammertone supplier reccomended the Xylene from a local Hardware store.
Thanks goes to Roger Moment and Curt Arndt for providing me with the starting
point on the colors.
Good Luck!
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 12:09:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: block leak testing
The reason I ask is that the engine I'm preparing for
hot tanking had alot of dry sludge/rust in it and I
think a post hot tank leak test might be a good thing.
Thanks for any advice,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Web Hosting - establish your business online
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 16:02:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Victory is Mine!
Now that should be on a t shirt!
Keith Pennell
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 14:29:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Victory is Mine!
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: Victory is Mine!
> There is no more satisfying repair than one completed
> using the biggest hammer in your tool chest....
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > A 16" crescent and a couple of wacks with the old
> > Knockoff hammer (my
> > favorite tool) and the starter nut is off. Sometimes
> > the manual does
> > know what it's talking about. I should have known
> > that tools suitable
> > for working on steam engines would be ideal for the
> > Healey.a striking
> > spanner how deliciously esoteric .I suppose I might
> > have stopped
> > everyone a little bit sooner but I know how easy it
> > is to damage these
> > things and you all seemed to be having such ripping
> > good time .I hope
> > to see some of you in Dixon this May for Healeys and
> > pinball .You guys
> > are tops Jonathan Quandt
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 17:16:10 -0800
Subject: Fuel lines
Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get fuel line sets, and what to
purchase (steel or copper). I would prefer steel lines, over copper, yet am
not sure where to get the steel lines. Doug at 18G seems to be out of
business for the time being, and I know of no other source for the steel
lines, yet there must be! Can anyone help with this.
Thanks,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From FAWCETT1187 at attbi.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 02:36:39 +0000
Subject: front side cover needed
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 20:26:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: front side cover needed
These covers are a weak design on most six cylinder
healeys. Best thing to do is to take it to a metal
shop and have them reweld it with some steel
reinforcement so that it won't break in the same spot
again. This will probably cost you all of about $30
at a metal shop and about 15 minutes of your time. If
your looking for concourse quality however ... well
then nevermind!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- FAWCETT1187@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
> I just broke the front side engine cover on my early
> AH 3000. This is the side
> cover that the generator mounts to. Any body have a
> spare? Thanks. :^(
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 23:58:27 -0500
Subject: Hardtop for sale-not factory
Have decided to sell my Parrish hardtop for a BJ8. It is in very nice
condition. No cracks, plexiglass excellent, liner very good with no rips or
tears, has J hooks rear and eye bolts front for attachment. This is a period
hardtop, not new stock. Merely needs scuffing, priming and finish color of
your choice. Or you could use it as is in black gloss.
This is a top in very nice condition. On a scale of 1-10 I would rate it a
strong 8, even a 9 with a 10 being new! And this top can be mounted over the
folded down soft top!
Price is best offer over $400 by March 17. Will not ship. Located in Newport
News, VA but will help with delivery as far as Richmond.
If you have been considering a hardtop for your BJ8 but just did not want to
lay out $1000 or more for it, this top has your name on it! If you want 3
photos email me.
Contact me off list
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 00:06:23 -0500
Subject: Hardtop addendum
I am sorry but I failed to mention that the top is in need of a seal along the
back edge and along the windshield. The seals around the door windows are OK.
A seal kit is available for around $80 from Smooth Line, who bought out Tom
Parrish several years back.
Keith
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From russward at lineone.net
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:16:35 +0000
Subject: Roger Menadue
You will be sorry to hear that Roger passed away
peacefully last night
Further details to follow
Mell Ward
Midlands Centre
UK Club
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From russward at lineone.net
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:08:26 +0000
Subject: Roger Menadue
You will be sorry to hear that Roger passed away
peacefully last night
Further details to follow
Mell Ward
Midlands Centre
UK Club
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 06:23:57 EST
Subject: Jule Enterprises
Best-Michael
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:07:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Jule Enterprises
I don't think martin does 'puters.
His phone is (905) 854 3555 fax (905) 854 3554
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 13-Mar-03 6:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Jule Enterprises
Does anyone have an email address for Jule enterprises? (No, I am not
buying
a frame).
Best-Michael
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:29:12 EST
Subject: Re: front side cover needed
Mine was cracked and repaired by PO, but wasn't done very well.
Gave to welder that knew what he was doing, and after grinding the welds a
little smoother, and painting, it's not noticable.
Since it is cast or ductile iron, it required nickel welding rod I believe. A
good welder would know. The job was $50 because he had to clean out all the
previous welds.
I think people have a tendency to over torque on the generator bolts and also
the tension on the belt. Lot of stress on that piece.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:10:59 -0600
Subject: Jule Enterprises
> Does anyone have an email address for Jule enterprises? (No, I am not
buying
> a frame).
>
> Best-Michael
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:28:34 -0600
Subject: RE: Roger Menadue
-----Original Message-----
From: russward@lineone.net [mailto:russward@lineone.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 2:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Roger Menadue
Hello Everyone,
You will be sorry to hear that Roger passed away
peacefully last night
Further details to follow
Mell Ward
Midlands Centre
UK Club
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:15:57 -0500
Subject: Re: front side cover needed
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <FAWCETT1187@attbi.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: front side cover needed
> Mark,
>
> Mine was cracked and repaired by PO, but wasn't done very well.
>
> Gave to welder that knew what he was doing, and after grinding the welds a
> little smoother, and painting, it's not noticable.
>
> Since it is cast or ductile iron, it required nickel welding rod I
believe. A
> good welder would know. The job was $50 because he had to clean out all
the
> previous welds.
>
> I think people have a tendency to over torque on the generator bolts and
also
> the tension on the belt. Lot of stress on that piece.
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 09:19:44 -0600
Subject: the passing of Roger Menadue
I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Roger Menadue back in 1992, at the
Healey event in Breckenridge, CO. Roger was somewhat of an unknown to the
Healey community, as members of the Healey family were (and still are)
sought after. Roger was content to stay back in the shadows. Dick Lunney,
the editor for the club magazine, had been in contact with Roger, and had
made arrangements for Roger to attend the event in CO. I had numerous phone
conversations and correspondence with Geoff Healey up that point, in
discussions about my Healey boat and Stave V tuned Sprite, and he was quite
happy to see his fishing buddy Roger getting an opportunity to share some of
the spotlight.
Roger was considered Donald Healey's right hand man. They'd met before WWII.
Roger was a little too old to be drafted into the service, and he spent much
of the war working in an airplane factory, and volunteering as a lookout in
Cornwall... watching for enemy bombers in the skies of England. Following
the war, he went to work with Donald, designing and building some of the
first Healeys. Materials in England's post war world were vary difficult to
come by. In fact, the chassis dimensions for many of the Healeys were
limited by the length of steel available. Roger had also saved every nut and
bolt ever taken off an airplane in for service, as regulations always
required replacing with new. He had quite a stash of high quality
fasteners... which were worth their weight in gold in post war England. If
you ever have the opportunity to examine any of the Riley engine Healeys, or
the special test cars, you'll see fasteners that Roger had squirreled away
during the war.
It was Roger, back in 1952 that had defied Donald Healey, and showed the new
Healey 100 prototype at the Earl's Court Show. Donald had decided he was
unhappy with the frontal treatment on the car... but Roger went ahead and
brought the car to the show anyway.. and of course, the rest is history.
Roger ran the Experimental Department at the Works. Sometimes alone...
later, with assistant like Jock Reid, and Jim Cashmore. Out of a small
garage, and on a shoestring budget, he built race cars that ran with the
best in the world. One Nash Healey he built in a period of two weeks (the
original car had been destroyed during testing) finished 3rd overall at
LeMans. That car, along with the Falcon bodied Sprite raced by John Colgate,
were his favorites. In his career, he built over 30 cars that ran at LeMans.
He also built the record setting Bonneville cars, the Sebring entries, the
Targa Florio cars. Virtually all Healeys that went into production were
built first as prototypes by Roger.
Dick Lunney had mentioned that following the event in Breckenridge, that
Roger was staying in the states for an addition 2 weeks, to participate in
another Healey event. (Roger was to celebrate his 80th birthday during this
time period.) I made arrangements to have Roger come back with us to IL and
stay in our home for a week. We scheduled a day or two up at Fourintune with
Tom Kovacs... as he and Steve Pike had discovered what they believed to be
NOJ 391 lurking under the identity of a 100S owned by Fred Hunter. We
scheduled an archeological dig of the car, and I managed to capture it all
on video tape. Six months later, we brought Geoff Healey over, and video
taped his inspection of the car as well. Despite it had been forty years
since either one had seen the car, there was only a few minor details that
either disagreed with, despite conducting their inspections separately, six
months apart. Later, I had the opportunity to edit all the footage together
in a little documentary called "Just In Time". The proceeds went to
memorials in Geoff Healey's name. The video has long been out of print, but
I hope to once again have copies available soon.
I remember we celebrated Roger's 80th at my kitchen table. My daughters Kate
and Emily were 6 and 4 at the time... and just adored him. He was so sweet
and kind to them. I think I still have pictures of him wearing a party hat
as we ate cupcakes. Our time together went by all too quickly.. but not
before Roger and I had developed a bond. We discussed various issues. We
argued. We laughed, and enjoyed one another's company. We went up to my
summer place in Wisconsin, and he and my father went fishing. We were sad to
see him go.
The following summer, Tom Kovacs, Mike Flaws, another Healey enthusiast, and
I pitched in to bring him back to the states for another extended visit. I
believe it had been that winter that Geoff Healey had passed away suddenly.
Roger's wife had passed just a few years earlier, and the loss of these
people greatly saddened Roger. He'd put on a happy face for the Healey
community... and, I suppose, it was the attention given to him that helped
him in some way deal with the loss.
Roger got a taste of vintage racing... as he crewed for me from small club
events at Blackhawk, to the huge Chicago Historic Races at Road America.
What a thrill for a bit player Healey enthusiast like me to have the Healey
Experimental Chief help me prepare my car. We also tackled various other
projects... he loved to work. He had amazing energy. We re-engineered the
roll bar on my Stage V tuned Sprite, the Bishop. The roll bar had come from
57 FAC, the Works Sebring car from 1963. I'd also picked up two mopeds at a
garage sale... with the intention of using them as pit bikes. Although they
had less than 200 miles on them, the tanks were full of rust and sediment.
We spent the better part of two days dismantling them. Roger took a bag of
sheet metal screws from the hardware store, a cup oil, and a 1/2 gallon of
gas, and dumped them in the fuel tanks. We shook them for hours.. the sharp
edges of the screws loosened the rust and sediment...and I ended up with two
nicely running mopeds.
On this trip, Roger presented me with his ID bracelet from LeMans. It was
required by the scrutineers at the French race, as only the approved
mechanic could work on the car. Everything was tagged and sealed, from the
crankcase on the engine, to the mechanic's tool box, to the mechanic
himself. He also gave me his MIRA Proving Ground General Driving Permit... a
facility where they'd often take the Works cars for testing. The gifts were
Roger's way of thanking me for bringing him over again, and he knew how much
I appreciated the history of Healey and his involvement. Roger also spent
time with the Flaws family, and Mike Flaws hosted a club party for Roger.
Then, Roger spent time up at Fourintune in Cedarburg, WI where Tom was
thrilled to have Roger help in an authentic recreation of NOJ 391. Geoff had
also given guidance and a Works number plate for the car, as it had his
blessing. The car was raced successfully by Phil Coombs, and then Mike
Carroll.
Roger and I kept in touch with an occasional phone call or letter, and we
always looked forward to his elegantly written Christmas cards. His elegant
handwriting always surprised me, although I suppose it shouldn't Roger was a
small, wiry man... yet his hands were huge from years and years of
wrenching. He admitted he didn't really care for writing by hand, as it took
him a lot of time to carefully craft the letters.
In 1998 I had the opportunity to go to the UK on business. I took the train
down to Cornwall, and stayed with Roger, his daughter Gaye, and son-in-law
Neil. They lived in a stone cottage, and Roger lived in a small trailer out
back. Roger showed me how he's devised a series of gutters and basins to
capture the rain water that he washed his clothes in and also water the
garden with. There was an old tool shed out back... and Roger showed me the
various projects he had going, and the tools he had made to assist in
building one certain Healey prototype or another. Roger had told me the
story of the Mechanic's Prize he'd been honored to receive at LeMans on two
occasions. One was a cash award.. and he never saw the money... it somehow
was appropriated along the way. The other Le Mans Mechanic's prize was a
gold plated beam style torque wrench. Funny thing was, Roger, in all his
years, never used a torque wrench. He related a story about a Nash factory
mechanic who was having trouble with head gaskets on one of the Nash Healey
race cars. Despite repeated attempts at torquing it down to spec, the
gaskets still failed repeatedly. Roger took a stab at it, using just "feel",
as was his method... and they never had a head gasket problem again with it.
Torque wrenches... he just didn't trust them. So, the gold plated one given
to whim ended up in the bottom drawer of his tool box...it's resting place
for 40 years or so. He went to the tool box, dug around, pulled it out, and
presented it to me as a gift.
We spent time, driving through Cornwall, as Rog showed me where he grew up,
where he met Donald Healey. He took me to Trebah...the estate once owned by
Donald, where, in the later years, they'd worked on various projects. The
following day, it was time to take the train back to London. Roger had
indicated it was not likely that he'd be able to make another cross Atlantic
flight to the US, as he felt with all the toils of travel, the time change
and all... it had become too much for him. We sat and talked. Roger,
although only five or six years older than my father, had become somewhat of
a grandfather figure for me. I loved the old man. We both teared up as we
hugged and said our good byes. As we talked, I think we both knew it might
be the last time we'd see each other again. It was. He's gone now. I'll
miss him.
Some Roger Menadue stories and pictures can be found at...
http://www.thicko.com/mechanic.htm
http://www.thicko.com/thicko.htm
http://www.thicko.com/healey.htm
http://www.thicko.com/videos.htm
Raise a class of Guinness today and toast Roger Menadue...a good man... one
of the finest I've ever known.
Wm. Severin Thompson
Team Thicko
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 07:47:13 -0800
Subject: Re: "California Healey Week"
The CHW Registration & Regalia forms and tentative event schedule are now
available on the AHCSD web site: <http://www.sdhealey.org>. There's a link
to the PDF file in the Calendar entry for CHW.
TTFN,
Rick
--
Rick Snover, President
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:08:32 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuel lines
I want to thank all that replied about fuel lines. I was able to order a
set of steel lines, and should be installing these on my chassis within the
next 2 weeks.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:25:59 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel lines
<< List,
Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get fuel line sets, and what to
purchase (steel or copper). I would prefer steel lines, over copper, yet am
not sure where to get the steel lines. Doug at 18G seems to be out of
business for the time being, and I know of no other source for the steel
lines, yet there must be! Can anyone help with this.
Thanks,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610 >>
Frank, If you have he originals as samples we can supply a bulk soft steel
pipe that can be bent ti shape.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:32:48 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel lines
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 09:11:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Bushings
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 09:31:36 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuel lines
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Rebeltown@aol.com [mailto:Rebeltown@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 8:33 AM
To: frank.golding@plantronics.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel lines
It was nice that Frank was able to get his fuel lines but unless users
choose the "respond to all" button, the rest of us never get to see the
answers to the questions we all may have some day.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 12:59:41 EST
Subject: Re: Jule Enterprises
> Well, Mike, did you at LEAST bend a frame??
Nope, just some information.
man, you just can't have any secrets on this list, can you?
Best--Michael
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 12:38:22 -0700
Subject: Learning Disability
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:16:48 -0500
Subject: Door Gap Dimension - Please help!
I have completed installation of the rear wheel arch and inner fender to my
'56 BN-2. Presently it is tack welded in place and I've installed the B-shut
pillar plate as well. I have the door on and the front fender clamped in place
and the door jam looks good on the front side.
The remains of the rear quarter is pretty rusted in the area of the dog leg so
I can't really get a good Idea of how the door gaps would look once this is
installed.
My question is. Can some one provide me with the door gap measurement from the
B-shut pillar to the door back edge. Basically the spacing or daylight between
these when the door is closed?
Right now everything is straight and there is an even gap. The gap is about
3/32 inch. I think this is too tight seeing that there will be the fender and
aluminum cover plate installed over the b-pillar so that will cut the gap down
to about zero. The front edge gap with the front fender is about 1/8 inch and
this seems to be the smallest it could be without causing a rub when the door
is opened.
Thanks
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:23:33 -0500
Subject: RE: the passing of Roger Menadue
== Alex
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:20 AM
To: Vintage-Race; Healey list Forum; Team-Thicko@Autox.Team.Net;
Spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Cc: Kate Healey; John Sprinzel
Subject: the passing of Roger Menadue
Roger Menadue
1912-2003
I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Roger Menadue back in 1992, at the
Healey event in Breckenridge, CO. Roger was somewhat of an unknown to the
Healey community, as members of the Healey ........................
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 12:38:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Thu, 13 Mar 2003 12:38:22 -0700, you wrote:
::Healeyphiles, why are we not driving Mazda Miatas?
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:50:48 EST
Subject: rear cockpit molding
804-980 molding
804-905 plate joint
804-915 plate capped
Thanks,
Price
60BT7
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:32:21 -0800
Subject: Car Transport - Non-Healey
I just bought an English car. No not a Healey, a Mini. No not a classic
one, a new one. The only problem is that it's in New York and I'm in So.
California. So, I'm looking at car transports, and I'm getting quotes of
$700 - $895 for an open career. I'll list them below, please let me know if
you have any horror stories/recomendations about any of these carriers, or
know a better priced company.
Hurst Transport $895
Able Auto Transport $800
Moving My Car $795
Auto Moving inc. $700
Any help would be great, maybe send it off list so we don't clog it with
non-Healey stuff.
BrianM
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
P.S. No you can't drive it here for me :-)
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 14:36:17 -0700
Subject: Trim nits for BJ8
1. The studs for the tonneau (4 on the rear shroud) screw into a raised
threaded "reciever" (for lack of a better term) . Is that raised area of
the reciever painted, or left unpainted (it appears to be aluminum)?
2. I have seen no pictures of "what is behind the door panel" in an
original configuration. Mine had some sort of naugahide glued over the
entire open area (behind which the window is plainly seen when the nauguhide
was removed. In addition, there were foam donuts (3" diameter, 1/2 inch
thick) glued onto the nauguhide at the window crank openings. Can someone
shed some light on what this should be?
Thanks in advance.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Rolling unit in for final paint.
Interior on its way back from Heritage...
03 BRG Mini Cooper S somewhere between CA and UT....
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 17:14:58 EST
Subject: Bad Coil - Bad Coil
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 18:18:51 EST
Subject: Re: Trim nits for BJ8
Your Item 2.
I always considered the film glued to the interior door as a vapor (or more
precisely "vapour") barrier to protect the plywood / cardboard backboard of
the vinyl coated cover.
I believe mine was original, it was a form similar to oil cloth but it look
like it might be able to breath, without passing moisture. Just like Gortex
does in todays rain gear.
I looked for a similar product but never came up with anything. I have used a
heavy vinyl with contact cement until I can find something better. Couldn't
save the original on one door, but did on the other.
Please let me know if you find something...
REgards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 19:24:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe@rushmore.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 2:38 PM
Subject: Learning Disability
> The great thing about this chat group on Healeys is people who have gone
> before help people find the satisfactory part the first time. They don't
have
> to make mistakes by trial and error. This is wonderful. Now, with this in
> mind ,Healeyphiles, why are we not driving Mazda Miatas? Do we have a
> learning disability? The person with the best answer wins a free oil rag.
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 16:34:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Transport - Non-Healey
For $850.00 I will fly out to NY and drive it back for you! 3 days max.
(can you say "cannoball run" ?)
Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA
'55 BN1
Brian Mix wrote:
> Any help would be great, maybe send it off list so we don't clog it with
> non-Healey stuff.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 19:36:15 EST
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
Listers:
Although I'm not quite sure, it sounds as if we have been given another
"Stump the Chumps" challenge, sort of like the one Mike Salter gave us a
while back.
So, my answer would have to be "Because Healeys' Timing is more retarded."
(You can bring the free oil rag to Conclave this June and give it to me
there.)
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:22:42 -0500
Subject: Car joke (very funny)
http://midcoast.com/~clocks/HamletFerrari.mpeg.mpe
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:42:45 EST
Subject: Re: the passing of Roger Menadue
"The Specials are nearly all the cars that I made for Donald. I made
about 300 cars in all, the prototypes of all the cars that went into
production during the 30 odd years that we existed. I also made all of the
race cars, the record breakers, including the Salt Flats. When I say I made
these cars, I had a young Scots lad as my assistant as a lot of work on
building a car requires two people.
I was always interested in cars, so I did a seven year apprenticeship in
a garage and when I finished, I went on to Coventry and in the Twenties,
Coventry was the centre of the British car industry. And there I was
employed by Triumphs as a road tester. After 3 years, I went to SS Cars also
as a road tester. They are now known as Jaguar. I then did two years with
Armstrong Siddely Aircraft working on bombers and the was came on and I was
"frozen". I wasn't allowed to leave. Towards the end of the war, Donald and
I made our first car in our spare time.
In 1950, Donald asked me how would I like to make a car for LeMans. I
replied that I would love to make a car for LeMans. We would not win LeMans
but we would five the opposition an awful fright and that was exactly what we
did. In a field of 62 cars, we finished in fourth place. The following
year, 1951, we finished in 6th place. This was still good, for LeMans, to
finish is something of a feat. I believed that you had to study a car when
you were building it, and that paid off. I have on several times when
things got a little tense at some race or other, in the pits said to the
other driver or Geoff Healey that I was not at all worried. That my car was
not going to let me down and they would not, they had been built with
understanding and this, one learns only during apprenticeship and paying
attention.
In 1952, I was able to do what everyone said was impossible. I built a
LeMans race car to replace the car that I had prepared for the 1952 LeMans
24hr race and Donald Healey had completely written off. With less than 2
weeks to go I said that I could make another car, body and all. Donald and
Geoffrey both said, "Impossible". Nobody could build a LeMans race car
complete with body in less than two weeks. I said, "Maybe not, but I can."
The said, "Don't be ridiculous.' I said, "You two will not have any say in
the building, either. I can't have people arguing, it will never get it
done." They knew they couldn't argue with me and had to give in. They were
furious, especially Donald and moreso when I had that car ready on time. But
worse was to follow.
In the race, my car beat every other car in the race including one of the
3 works Mercedes. I beat the Ferraris, the Jaguars, Aston Martins,
Cunninghams, Talbos, you name them. I beat them and Donald was furious. He
wouldn't allow a picture of that car in any Healey book.
In 1968, my last LeMans venture, I entered a Lucas fuel injected Sprite
and won three trophies. The First British Car Award, The Rudge Whitworth
Biennial Cup for 2 consecutive year wins, The Best Mechanic LeMans 1968 (for
the Jaguary and Coventry Climax trophy).
I thought that this was a lovely way to finish LeMans after 23 years.
My first attempt, 1950, I finished in fourth position and to finish the
greatest sports car event of the year, the First British Car, is not too bad."
s/ Roger Menadue
The sport has lost another of the great "motormen".
Godspeed, Roger
Rick Neville
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:56:14 EST
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
>Now, with this in
>mind,Healeyphiles, why are we not driving Mazda Miatas? Do we have a
>learning disability? The person with the best answer wins a free oil rag.
>
I don't know about the learning disability but one thing for sure, if we all
had a Miata in the garage instead of a Healey, we wouldn't need the free oil
rag.
Cheers
Bob
1963 BJ7 (ABOUT HALF WAY THERE!!)
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 19:16:24 -0800
Subject: test12
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 23:39:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
>Now, with this in
>mind,Healeyphiles, why are we not driving Mazda Miatas? Do we have a
>learning disability? The person with the best answer wins a free oil rag.
Owning a Healey is for people who are ready for a commited
relationship. People who drive Miatas are just screwing around with
cars.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:56:53 -0800
Subject: BN7 Rear Shroud
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:32:27 -0000
Subject: Front side cover needed
If you are interested in some thing stronger than the original, Dennis Welch
(amongst others) does an alloy replacement. The web site has details.
Regards
Paul
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 02:36:39 +0000
>From: FAWCETT1187@attbi.com
>Subject: front side cover needed
>Listers,
>I just broke the front side engine cover on my early AH 3000. This is the side
>cover that the generator mounts to. Any body have a spare? Thanks. :^(
>- --
>Mark
>59 BT7
>Carson, CA
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 07:32:27 -0500
Subject: Kingpins
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 08:31:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Learning Disability
I dunno...
...I think that maybe a Miata is to a Healey as a Honda is to a Harley. Each
fills a need that the other can't.
Best,
John "had both" Miller
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:19:43 -0500
Subject: bumper brackets
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From "Thames, G. Troy" <GTT at TPGL.COM>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:24:51 -0500
Subject: exhaust setup question
Troy
BT-7
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From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 07:13:14 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
Subject: Fitting a soft top
Thanks in advance
John
BN4 BT7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif]
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From "Mike Goode" <mgoode2 at cox.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 08:16:54 -0700
Subject: Transmission oil change interval
Question for the list...I searched the archives and could not find any
information..
How often should you change the transmission oil? When you change it and drain
both the transmission and overdrive, I assume refilling through the
transmission dipstick/fill hole, the O/D will be filled as well without
anything special. The manual says 7.5 US pints...pretty close?
I have seen the talk back and forth about using 20/50 HD oil rather than 30 wt
non-detergent. Has anyone using 20/50 seen any difference?
Thanks for the help.
Mike Goode
BJ8/40462
Scottsdale
Best Regards,
Mike Goode
Vice President
NetJets Aviation, Inc
480-419-9900 (office)
480-563-0601 (fax)
309-412-7265 (e-fax)
mgoode@netjets.com
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:19:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Transmission oil change interval
My opinion is if you drive the heck out of you Healey, as you should, I
would recommend changing the Gear Box Fluid each year and since you live in
a hot climate I would recommend Penrite Gear Oil 40(which is actually
25W/60 multi-grade) and non-detergent.
When you drain the gear box and overdrive be sure to clean the O/D strainer
basket and filling the gear box does fill the O/D.
If I can be of any further help or you would like my brochure packet please
let me know.
I have both Gear Box 30 and 40 in stock in 5ltr containers.
Have a great day and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 08:16 AM 3/14/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I sent this yesterday, but it got lost somewhere along the way. If you get it
>twice, I apologize..
>
>Question for the list...I searched the archives and could not find any
>information..
>
>How often should you change the transmission oil? When you change it and
drain
>both the transmission and overdrive, I assume refilling through the
>transmission dipstick/fill hole, the O/D will be filled as well without
>anything special. The manual says 7.5 US pints...pretty close?
>
>I have seen the talk back and forth about using 20/50 HD oil rather than
30 wt
>non-detergent. Has anyone using 20/50 seen any difference?
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
>Mike Goode
>BJ8/40462
>Scottsdale
>Best Regards,
>
>Mike Goode
>Vice President
>NetJets Aviation, Inc
>480-419-9900 (office)
>480-563-0601 (fax)
>309-412-7265 (e-fax)
>mgoode@netjets.com
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 08:15:35 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuel lines
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 08:52:40 -0800
Subject: 1999 WCM / CHW Photos
> Hi Rick,
>
> As I don't know how to post this to the SDAHC list
> would you post it for me ? Thanks Kirk.
>
> To whom ever just might have photos of the
> 1999 WCM / CHW auction.
>
> I am looking for any photos of Joy Healey standing at the
> podium with the DMH travel bag she and John offerred
> for auction and which I was successful bidder.
>
> If other pictures of the travel bag are found I would
> appreciate them too.
>
> TIA, for your time researching this request.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> (909) 886-5317
> 1000 East 40th Street
> San Bernardinio, Ca. 92404
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:49:17 -0800
Subject: exhaust set up
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 12:32:19 -0700
Subject: End of Learning Disability
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 14:06:23 -0600
Subject: Re: bumper brackets
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:17:19 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue
Funeral Arrangements have been made and will take place next week.
This will be private service and we ask you respect the Family's wishes.
Donations to
'The Cornwall First Air Ambulance'
may be sent to the Funeral Directors.
A.C.Richard & Son
Station Approach
New Road
Perranporth
Cornwall
TR6 0LH
A Memorial service is to take place on
Sunday 18th May at
St Peter's Church
Barford
Nr Warwick.
Time 12.15 for 12.30.
This will be followed by a cavalcade and Luncheon at Honiley Court Hotel,
Honiley Nr Warwick.
Tickets for the Lucheon will be #15.00 per person
Mell Ward
Austin Healey Club IUK
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:45:11 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission oil change interval
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:52:09 -0500
Subject: bumper brackets
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:54:47 EST
Subject: Towing
It is beginning to look like I may have to move my project before it is
drivable. The best way would be on a slide-bed wrecker, but what has been the
experience of the group in towing? We're talking 125 miles. All wheels on
road with driveshaft disconnected, using a simple tow bar? Anyone have
experience fastening a rented tow bar to a Healey? What about the rental
"two-wheels-up" trailers? Front end up? Rear end up? Can the front, or the
back, actually be maneuvered onto one? Car is presently backed into a garage
at the top of a sloped (not TOO steep) straight driveway about 25 feet long.
Any thoughts/helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:39:03 -0600
Subject: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 13:57:26 -0800
Subject: exhaust set up
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:09:58 -0500
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
First, I used a small hand pump oiler (can get these at your local Advance or
Autozone store) that holds several ounces (or cc's, if you prefer) of fluid.
To that, I attached a length of clear plastic tubing (available at Home Depot,
etc.) to fit the nozzle of the oiler. It took about 7 oilers-full to fill up
the housing from empty, and gets to be a bit tedious squeezing the oiler
handle and filling up the reservoir frequently. It's also difficult to get
at the filler hole with the car sitting level on its wheels.
My latest technique is to remove the rear seats (BJ8) and drain/squeeze the
oil directly from the quart bottles from above after attaching a
suitably-sized length of clear plastic tubing to the bottle nozzle (make sure
it fits tightly onto the nozzle so you don't get any surprises). I place an
old towel on the floor under the axle housing to catch the overflow, and fill
until the oil runs out the filler hole. I do this with the car sitting level
on its wheels.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins
To: Healey list
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 4:39 PM
Subject: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have the
Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:21:13 EST
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 16:16:58 -0800
Subject: RE: Donut Derelicts / Crystal cove
OK.
I am going to take Ron Davis advice.
We are going to the Crystal cove promenade.
I will be there at 7.00 am.
See ya Saturday.
Ron Rader
BJ8 (this Saturday)
1967 E FHC soon to be cool.
rdavies wrote:
>
> Directions: from the North....405 S to the 73Toll Road. Get off at
Newport
> Coast Road and head towards the ocean.
> Turn left at Pacific Coast Hwy. Go about 3 miles. Look for the Date Shack
> "Open All Year" sign on your right (ocean) and the first light you can
turn
> LEFT at is the shopping center entrance. After turning left into the
complex
> make a quick RIGHT and follow your eyes and ears 200 yards to the cars. It
> has been expanding so fast that it may be only 100 yards this week.
> If you miss the LEFT turn you will see the cars shorty on your left but
> don't be tempted to cross the double yellow and enter illegally as there
is
> a police presence. You'll have to drive to the next signal and make a U
> turn.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 16:48:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Towing
Two precautions: I you do not disconnect the drive shaft, add a little
extra oil to the tranny to make sure all the gears are getting some
lubrication, and make sure the steering wheel is free to turn as you go
around curves and/or corners (e.g. no tonneau cover over the steering
wheel).
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 12:54 PM
Subject: Towing
> Listers,
>
> It is beginning to look like I may have to move my project before it is
> drivable. The best way would be on a slide-bed wrecker, but what has been
the
> experience of the group in towing? We're talking 125 miles. All wheels
on
> road with driveshaft disconnected, using a simple tow bar? Anyone have
> experience fastening a rented tow bar to a Healey? What about the rental
> "two-wheels-up" trailers? Front end up? Rear end up? Can the front, or
the
> back, actually be maneuvered onto one? Car is presently backed into a
garage
> at the top of a sloped (not TOO steep) straight driveway about 25 feet
long.
> Any thoughts/helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 19:55:34 -0500
Subject: British "Car"toon
Bob
55BN1
http://www.daybydaycartoon.com/Cartoons/02-27-2003.gif
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:08:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Towing
> Front end up? Rear end up?
>
Just don't tow it backwards ... unless you want the knockoffs and wheels
to come off (at least that's what I've heard).
Cheers,
John
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:05:00 EST
Subject: Re: British "Car"toon
> http://www.daybydaycartoon.com/Cartoons/02-27-2003.gif
>
>
I'm trying to think of a three-cylinder English car (six valves!).....
Michael
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:21:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
I find it much easier just to go to Jiffy Lube and
have them replace the diff oil. It's cheap and easy!
Alan
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear
> end fluid? I have the
> Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to
> have trouble getting the
> bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
>
> I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:40:47 -0500
Subject: test no content
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 19:41:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpins
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool"
> List
> I was also caught in the kingpin recall with my 100. My mechanic who is a
> Moss distributor recieved my replacements yesterday and to my pleasent
> surprise they are manufactured by Quinton Hazell. Since it will be awhile
> until I get my car out due to the nice snow we have in norteast PA, I
can't
> comment on the replacement time.
> Regrads
> Terry
> 100-M
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:51:36 -0800
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Well worth the $6 or so.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have the
> Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
> bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
>
> I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 19:50:50 -0600
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:06:46 -0600
Subject: looking for cam gear!!!
p.s. A balmy 44 degrees F predicted for tommorrow, only one heater will be
fired up in the garage.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <AHCSD-owner@yahoogroups.com>; <AHCSD@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:07:30 EST
Subject: Re: Kingpins
> I got caught too,
My wife's BN7 has unmarked kinpins.
I contacted the fellow in Brandon, Florida who did the restoration and he is
trying to shake me down for $500.00 to give me the information as to when the
pins were installed and who supplied them! He says it would be "too much
trouble" to go through his file on the car, and if I want to buy it that is
the price--take it or leave it.
I'm going to leave it and install new pins rather than be blackmailed.
Seems like even our Healey world has a few jerks.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:16:44 -0500
Subject: Door Gap Dimension - Please help!
> Hello List
>
> I have completed installation of the rear wheel arch and inner fender to
my
> '56 BN-2. Presently it is tack welded in place and I've installed the
B-shut
> pillar plate as well. I have the door on and the front fender clamped in
place
> and the door jam looks good on the front side.
>
> The remains of the rear quarter is pretty rusted in the area of the dog
leg so
> I can't really get a good Idea of how the door gaps would look once this
is
> installed.
>
> My question is. Can some one provide me with the door gap measurement from
the
> B-shut pillar to the door back edge. Basically the spacing or daylight
between
> these when the door is closed?
>
> Right now everything is straight and there is an even gap. The gap is
about
> 3/32 inch. I think this is too tight seeing that there will be the fender
and
> aluminum cover plate installed over the b-pillar so that will cut the gap
down
> to about zero. The front edge gap with the front fender is about 1/8 inch
and
> this seems to be the smallest it could be without causing a rub when the
door
> is opened.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:35:54 -0600
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Cheers,
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>; "Healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
> Brian -
>
> I find it much easier just to go to Jiffy Lube and
> have them replace the diff oil. It's cheap and easy!
>
> Alan
>
>
> --- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> > Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear
> > end fluid? I have the
> > Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to
> > have trouble getting the
> > bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
> >
> > I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From "Sexton, Sean T (LCDR)" <n321b at cusnc.navy.mil>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 05:33:44 +0300
Subject: RE: Door Gap Dimension - Please help!
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 5:17 AM
To: Rick Neves
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Door Gap Dimension - Please help!
Keep in mind, Rick that the aluminum trim plates will not add to the gap
needed at this point. The plates will sit further inboard than the actual
gap area, as will the vinyl piping. The piping will sit just under the
surface here and will hide the raw aluminum edge from being seen. So bottom
line is you need only to pay attention to the actual door edge to fender
facing edge. The ideal is from about 1/8" to 3/16" gap before painting.
Remember also that the door shut pillar angles back when viewed from above
and that rear fenders are extremely flexible in eliminating length. They
will simply bell out wider if compressed from front to back.
One last note...don't let the indentation pressed intoreplacement rocker
panels throw you off. They are all pressed with the raised face too long by
about 1/2". This means you will likely have to notch this offset out and
reweld a small patch where the rear fender dogleg fits over the rear
extension of the outer rocker panel. Clear as mud, eh?
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 3:16 PM
Subject: Door Gap Dimension - Please help!
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:45:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpins
This is one time where the "restorers" name would be worth posting, a little
house cleaning goes a long way.
Kind regards
Ed
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/14/03 8:46:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
>
> > I got caught too,
>
> My wife's BN7 has unmarked kinpins.
>
> I contacted the fellow in Brandon, Florida who did the restoration and he is
> trying to shake me down for $500.00 to give me the information as to when the
> pins were installed and who supplied them! He says it would be "too much
> trouble" to go through his file on the car, and if I want to buy it that is
> the price--take it or leave it.
>
> I'm going to leave it and install new pins rather than be blackmailed.
> Seems like even our Healey world has a few jerks.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:58:19 -0500
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Press on a length of rubber tubing onto the tapered nozzle. This allows you
to hold the bottle horizontally and squeeze to force the fluid into the
hole. I also raise the front end a couple inches when I fill. That way
when you fill the hole til it runs out, you will not have it overfilled.
Keith Pennell
> Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have
the
> Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
> bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
>
> I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:00:29 -0700
Subject: Re: exhaust set up
I did have to hot bend the header pipes to get perfect alignment with
the cylinder head & put some additional bend in the rear of the tailpipe
to get maximum ground clearance in back. Made a short L bracket for
the rear tailpipe hanger to change the direction 90 degrees. Other than
that no other problems.
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
>The big problem was the length of the down pipes,in my case about 2"
>too long. the mounts on the muffler and back were too low and the rear
>tail mounting was 180 from stock. the mount under the seat was useless
>and the muffler shop used a new mount to attach to the frame where it
>should be rather than the floorboard.Don't forget to use a grinder to
>fit your manifolds to the head around the studs and between the intake
>and exhaust these to needed attention as they were too tight
> I installed D.W headers on my 100-4 power and performance was
>improved. From my exp.once you install the manifold take the rest to
>the muffler shop and let them fit the muffler and tail pipe.My system
>hung way too low and needed much modification .Good luck jonathan.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 22:20:14 EST
Subject: Kingpin shakedown
The individual does NOT run a restoration shop, else I would have alerted the
list right away--he's an individual who has apparently restored a few Healeys
and did a very nice job on this car, everything else notwithstanding.
As I said, he is from Brandon, Florida. While on the one hand I feel that, by
mentioning who the person is, I am descending to his level, I will tell you
that his last name rhymes with "COLON".
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 19:36:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Towing
I flat towed a BN7 from central Oregon to Bakersfield, CA at 70 mph w/ a
custom made tow bar that bolts to the inside of the front frame (the other
ends of the threaded tubes where the bumper mounts). Did not disconnect the
drive shaft...no problem. Still have this tow bar. If you want to come to
Port Townsend, WA; to pick it up, I will loan it to you. :-)
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 12:54 PM
Subject: Towing
> Listers,
>
> It is beginning to look like I may have to move my project before it is
> drivable. The best way would be on a slide-bed wrecker, but what has been
the
> experience of the group in towing? We're talking 125 miles. All wheels
on
> road with driveshaft disconnected, using a simple tow bar? Anyone have
> experience fastening a rented tow bar to a Healey? What about the rental
> "two-wheels-up" trailers? Front end up? Rear end up? Can the front, or
the
> back, actually be maneuvered onto one? Car is presently backed into a
garage
> at the top of a sloped (not TOO steep) straight driveway about 25 feet
long.
> Any thoughts/helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 22:38:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Transmission oil change interval
To the best of my knowledge the factory never specified non-detergent
oil for the transmission, in fact the all the factory handbooks specify
the same oil for the gearbox and engine.
For example the 100 handbook specified, among other oils, Wakefield
(Castrol) XL which was a multigrade detergent oil
The Mk III handbook specifies Castrolite or Castrol XL.
I have a letter from Laycock De Normanville indicating that they are
happy that any oil used to lubricate the gearbox isused in the
overdrive.
We have used multigrade 20/W50 in gearboxes for over 25 years without
any sign of difficulties.
As far as I have been able to determine modern spec oil is certainly as
good, if not better, that what was available 50 years ago.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of RAHosmer@aol.com
Sent: 14-Mar-03 3:45 PM
To: jfm@ballistic.com; mgoode2@cox.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Transmission oil change interval
I'm confused. The factory was always adamant about using 30W
non-detergent
oil in the transmission and OD. Clearly the oil serves two purposes - to
lubricate the gears (for which 30W is probably woefully inadequate) and
to
operate the OD, for which an even thinner oil might have been better. In
other words, a compromise. In the light of today's knowledge, and
"better"
oils being available, what REALLY is the best lube to use. Thanks.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 22:12:25 -0600
Subject: Sold!
Tomorrow I'll sign the title and the "Old Red Devil" will belong to Dan
White from Troy, Michigan.
Good Luck to all of you and please give Dan all of the help I would have
needed had I kept the car and finished it.
Don
BN7 Sold!
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 22:20:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Transmission oil change interval
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter"
Subject: RE: Transmission oil change interval
> Hi Dick,
>
> To the best of my knowledge the factory never specified non-detergent
> oil for the transmission, in fact the all the factory handbooks specify
> the same oil for the gearbox and engine.
>
> For example the 100 handbook specified, among other oils, Wakefield
> (Castrol) XL which was a multigrade detergent oil
>
> The Mk III handbook specifies Castrolite or Castrol XL.
>
> I have a letter from Laycock De Normanville indicating that they are
> happy that any oil used to lubricate the gearbox isused in the
> overdrive.
>
> We have used multigrade 20/W50 in gearboxes for over 25 years without
> any sign of difficulties.
>
> As far as I have been able to determine modern spec oil is certainly as
> good, if not better, that what was available 50 years ago.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:03:15 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate Austin Healey Club--event alert
WHAT: The Club to host personalized tour of the Blackhawk Auto Museum to kick
off the 2003 season.
WHEN: Sunday March 23 starting at 8AM with a club breakfast at Max's on
Crow Canyon Road in San Ramon.
After breakfast the group will caravan to the museum, about 10 minutes away.
Museum tour starts at 10:15
Long-time Healey enthusiast Jim Hale, who is also a docent at
Blackhawk, will conduct the club tour. Parking for all visiting Healeys will
be provided in the front outside rotunda of the museum.
Museum admission charge is $8.00/adult.
Directions: For breakfast at Max's, take I-680 to Crow Canyon
Road in San Ramon (just north of I-580). Head east on Crow Canyon Road (to
the right if coming from the south), and take your first left in to Max's.
South on I-680 bear off to the right at Crow Canyon Road and cross back over
the freeway. If you're planning to go directly to the museum, you can
continue east on Crow Canyon Road to Blackhawk, or you can take Camino
Tassajara north off I-580 in Dublin or south off I-680 in Danville.
PLEASE CONFIRM YOUR ATTENDANCE BY MARCH 20th for the club breakfast at Max's
and/or for the Blackhawk Auto Museum tour by contacting John Soderling at
925-934-0925 or at jsoderling@astound.net.
We need to know how many are coming to the breakfast and if you will be
bringing you Healey to display in front of the museum.
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 22:04:35 -0800
Subject: san francisco bound
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From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 01:47:25 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
Subject: Fitting soft top
Thanks in advance
John
BN4 BT7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif]
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 05:59:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpin shakedown
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 07:33:36 -0500
Subject: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
> Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have
the
> Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
> bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
>
> I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 07:47:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Kingpin shakedown
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003
Bradenton, FL
> As I said, he is from Brandon, Florida. While on the one hand I feel that,
by
> mentioning who the person is, I am descending to his level, I will tell
you
> that his last name rhymes with "COLON".
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 08:24:20 -0600
Subject: Sold!
Don Yarber
BN7 Sold!
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 08:49:25 -0600
Subject: Transmission oil change interval
I'm sorry as I didn't really answer your question about the correct
interval to change you Gear box/ O/D oil and it seems the rear axle also.
>How often should you change the transmission oil? When you change it and
drain
>both the transmission and overdrive, I assume refilling through the
>transmission dipstick/fill hole, the O/D will be filled as well without
>anything special. The manual says 7.5 US pints...pretty close?
>
According to my BN1 org. owners handbook of February 1955, Pub. #996/D on
page #35 it states the Gearbox and Overdrive should be drained and refilled
every 6000 Miles(9,600 KM). This includes the Rear End.
Just for curiosity the motor oil should be changed every 3000 miles but the
original filter only every, (renew element) 9000 to 12000 miles. So I
guess the old oil in the filter will mix with the new oil(hummmmm).
Sorry for any confusion on the subject. The choice of oil is your decision
but do not change from non-detergent to detergent with out cleaning all the
corners of the possibly build up sludge. As there is no filter in the gear
box the non-detergent will let trash and such settle out and not be harmful
to blocking any small passages particularly in the overdrive. Detergent
will keep everything suspended and moving about.
Just my thoughts on the matter IMHO.
Cheers
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 09:53:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpins
THE POWER OF THE LIST.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <glemon@neb.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Orbittor@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: Kingpins
> Hi Michael
>
> This is one time where the "restorers" name would be worth posting, a
little
> house cleaning goes a long way.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 10:10:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Sold!
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:24 AM
Subject: Sold!
> Last night I posted a message stating that I have sold my BN7 as of today.
> I got a lot of messages from a lot of you very nice Healey owners and
> enthusiasts asking if I was "ditching" the list. The answer is, NO. I'll
> hang around and be interested in all of your victories and defeats. The
> main question I got was "WHY?"
> The answer is that I am now 66 years old and I realize that it would take
> many years and mucho dollars to put the car into the condition it deserves
> as one of the few remaining triple carb, two seat center shifts. I'm just
> too tired to do it. Being retired and on a fixed income, I can foresee
some
> things happening in our country that do not please me. The price of
> insurance is getting to be exhorbitant, the price of fuel is going to go
> much higher and I want to pay off all my debts (although they arent'
> oppresive) and be prepared for what I think is coming. (Please e-mail me
> off list if you want elaboration on that!)
> I'm impressed with the work that Dan White has done on his BN4 and he
made
> what I consider a decent offer for the car. I won't post my sell price
> until I get Dan's OK on that. I know that Dan will give "The Old Red
Devil"
> a good home and I'll watch for his posts and give him all the support and
> help that my limited mechanical abilities can provide.
> Does it sadden me? Yes. After 30 years I had grown pretty attached to
the
> car.
> Will I dwell on it? NO. Times change, people change, needs change.
> My best wishes to Dan and to all of you GREAT folks.
>
> Don Yarber
> BN7 Sold!
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 10:15:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpin shakedown
> that his last name rhymes with "COLON".
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 11:56:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Fitting soft top
Mark
> Hi to all the list
> After being let down several times by trim shops I have decided to attempt
> fitting the soft top on my BN4. Do any of you good people know the
procedure
> and any pitfalls to avoid. Any and all tips would be welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John
> BN4 BT7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 12:09:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Transmission oil change interval
In my own case, I have used a "30 weight non detergent" in my 1962 3000 Mk II
tricarb centre shift
transmission for the last 20 years with an average of 4,000 miles per year.
The gearbox and
overdrive continue to work without a hitch; smooth shifting and overdrive kicks
in as it should.
Part of my rational for "30 weight non detergent" is based on my workshop
manual, Section G, which
states:
The lubricating oil in the overdrive unit is common with that in the gearbox
. It is essential
that an approved lubricant be used when refilling. Trouble may be experienced
if some types of
extreme pressure lubricants are used because the planet gears act as a
centrifuge to separate the
additives from the oil. Recommended lubricants are given in Section Q.
Section Q recommended
lubricants for gearbox and overdrive in all conditions are: Duckhams NOL
Thirty, Castrol X.L.,
Esso Extra Motor Oil 20W/30, Mobil oil A, Shell X-100 30, Energol S.A.E.
30, Filtrate Medium
30, and Sternol W.W. 30.
The other part of my rational for "30 weight non detergent" is based on
recommendation by Laycock
Engineering Limited manual that I acquired many years ago. Section 1:
'Working Principals and
Notes on Maintenance and Fault Finding' [it has no specific date but deals
with the 'A' & 'D'
Types of overdrive] on page 3 states:
LUBRICATION
The gearbox and overdrive unit, being adjacent, usually have a common oil
supply and the oil level
is indicated by a level plug or dipstick in the gearbox. In certain
applications, the overdrive
unit may have an independent supply, in which case a separate filler plug is
provided. Separate
drain plugs are provided for the gearbox and overdrive unit and both must be
removed when
draining the oil even though the two systems may be connected. The gauze
filler in the overdrive
unit should be removed and cleaned whenever the oil is changed. In A type
units, the filter is
accessible when the drain plug is removed.
It is essential that an approved lubricant be used when refilling, preferably a
straight mineral
oil with a viscosity between SAE 30 and SAE 50 with no E.P. additives.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY ANTI-FRICTION ADDITIVES BE PUT INTO THE OIL.
After refilling the gearbox and overdrive, re-check the oil level after the car
has been run for a
short distance as a certain amount of oil will be distributed round the
hydraulic system. It is
most important to use clean oil at all times and great care must be taken to
avoid the entry of
dirt whenever any part of the casing is opened. Dirt, or even lint from a
wiping cloth, which
finds its way into a valve, will cause trouble. If the hydraulic valves are
dismantled, care
should be taken to prevent scratches or nicks since these might cause leakage.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I also have Section 3: Dismantling, Inspecting and Assembling A Type
Overdrive. Note that
the A type overdrive was used on cars having engine capacities of about 2
litres and upwards
and the D type on smaller cars. The introduction to Section 1 also states
. Overdrive can
be engaged or disengaged at will at any speed but usually above, say 30 m.p.h.
in top gear. It
should be operated without using the clutch pedal and at any throttle opening
because the unit is
designed to be engaged and disengaged when transmitting full power. The only
precaution
necessary is to avoid disengaging overdrive at too high a road speed,
particularly when using it
in an indirect gear, since this would cause excessive engine revolutions.
--Scott Morris
Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com> wrote: << Hi Dick, To the
best of my knowledge
the factory never specified non-detergent oil for the transmission, in fact the
all the factory
handbooks specify the same oil for the gearbox and engine. For example the 100
handbook
specified, among other oils, Wakefield (Castrol) XL which was a multigrade
detergent oil. The Mk
III handbook specifies Castrolite or Castrol XL. I have a letter from Laycock
De Normanville
indicating that they are happy that any oil used to lubricate the gearbox
isused in the overdrive.
We have used multigrade 20/W50 in gearboxes for over 25 years without any sign
of difficulties.
As far as I have been able to determine modern spec oil is certainly as good,
if not better, that
what was available 50 years ago. Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com
>>
Dick Hosmer <RAHosmer@aol.com> wrote: << I'm confused. The factory was always
adamant about
using 30W non-detergent oil in the transmission and OD. Clearly the oil serves
two purposes to
lubricate the gears (for which 30W is probably woefully inadequate) and to
operate the OD, for
which an even thinner oil might have been better. In other words, a
compromise. In the light of
today's knowledge, and "better" oils being available, what REALLY is the best
lube to use. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 12:10:19 EST
Subject: Towing and Gearbox lube
A big "Thank you" to all who responded. I feel like I received some really
good tips.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 09:15:59 -0800
Subject: Re: san francisco bound
Vrooom vrooom,
John
> Listers,
> I will be in the san Francisco Bay area April 4 - 8th. Anything happening
> that I should take in, Or any recommendations for something to do while
I'm
> there?
> TIA
> I Erbs
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 09:24:49 -0800
Subject: San Francisco bound
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 09:41:55 -0800
Subject: Trans,Overdrive oil
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 19:20:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission oil change interval
tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; <RAHosmer@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 12:09 PM
Subject: RE: Transmission oil change interval
> Mike, Dick and et al;
>
> In my own case, I have used a "30 weight non detergent" in my 1962 3000 Mk
II tricarb centre shift
> transmission for the last 20 years with an average of 4,000 miles per
year. The gearbox and
> overdrive continue to work without a hitch; smooth shifting and overdrive
kicks in as it should.
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 19:18:07 EST
Subject: Radiator query.
Simon.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 19:40:48 -0600
Subject: stop leak
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 21:08:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Radiator query.
What else goes with that recipe?
CB
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 23:41:10 -0500
Subject: SU Carb tags
Mike B
59 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:56:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Radiator query.
That's where the rad tank is soldered to the core.
Very typical place to have a leak.
I'd avoid chemical "stop leaks", but you can use them
if you want to save money and hassle, although it
might ruin you motor if there's alot of scale and crud
in your engine block...
Really the best thing is to take the rad out and have
it resoldered. You can probably have is soldered up
for the cost of only a few pints, this type of work is
not costly.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> I took my BT7 down to Dartmoor for a pint today.
> Having recently replaced the
> braided rubber fuel hoses linking my three,
> non-standard carbs, with steel
> pipe I stuck my head into the engine compt. to look
> for leaks and Hey
> Presto!!, my vigilance was rewarded...the carbs were
> fine but the rad. was
> leaking.
> It appeared to be coming from where the cowl(?) (the
> top) meets the finned
> section. Bang in the centre, facing the engine.
> About 2 inches below the top
> most arc of the fan blades. Hence best to discover
> this on the way TO pub,
> rathr than FROM pub.
> So:
> 1) Do our 3000 rads tend to "go" in any one place or
> other, leading one to
> say "well, it's 40+yrs old and when they fail, they
> always fail there and
> that's it"???
> i.e. is my rad simply showing irredeemable signs of
> its age and its need for
> replacement?
> Or
> 2)
> It being a small leak (I got home - 25 miles - with
> no problems)..is the
> magic bottled cure any good? Our stuff is called
> "Radweld" or something
> similar. (May be from States?). Is it any good? Does
> it do dire things to the
> rest of the cooling system? Whilst blocking up small
> holes in radiator is it
> blocking up all the water passages in the block??
> (I once got a British army landrover quite a long
> way through the desert with
> about a dozen egg whites! Didn't do a hell of a lot
> for the rest of the
> system, but we were giving all the vehicles away at
> the end of the affair so
> didn't matter too much!)
>
> Simon.
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 21:26:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Oil draining tip
Come on, who's first?
Dean BN7
95' RRover
88 535is
---------------------------------
Subject: Oil Changing Was/ re: Oil Change Intervals
I used to be a Castrol GTX freak changing it
every 3k miles
rigorously in the older models. With newer oil
compositions, I find
that 5k miles oil and filter intervals in the E36 //M3
keeps the engine
nicely clean. Unwantingly, I got to see this when I
had to pull the
head at 60k miles.
In the //M motor, I fill it with 8 quarts //Mobil
1 5w30. Then
add
a quart again between 3 and 4 k miles.
While some complain about poor oil consumption in //M
motors, I believe
a thorough break period in when the car was new has
everything to do
with how little oil my motor consumes now at 80k
miles.
Btw, there's a lot of heavy crud that stays in
the bottom of the
oil pan if you only let the oil drip for a few
minutes. Most dealers
and oil change shops don't even let it drip for that
long. Some suck
the oil out without even pulling the plug.
If you have the time, drive the left front tire
up on a ramp.
Maybe a 2x4 or two under the left rear tire too. Set
up your drain
pan, and then with the engine running, pull the drain
plug. The vacuum
keeps the oil in. When you shut the engine, you then
get the heavier
stuff glopping out first.
Clean out the oil filter housing thoroughly. I
also then pour a
few ounces of new oil into the filter housing to flush
the passageways.
In this manner, you will find the engine can take
24 hours or more
to fully stop dripping. Then just short of removing
and degreasing the
oil pan, you've got out all the slimiest stuff that
there is to remove.
Do remember to install the new o rings and washers
that come in the box
with the new filter.
Tip: Fill the oil filter housing with oil to assist
in getting
immediate oil pressure when you first restart the car.
On the Road,
jk
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Web Hosting - establish your business online
http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 22:23:47 -0800
Subject: Re: SU Carb tags
;)
You might try Clark's Spares, or Burlen: http://www.burlen.co.uk/
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: SU Carb tags
> Anyone know where I can get a couple carb tags? I just rebuilt a couple HD6
> carbs to 1959 3000 specs and want to put the proper numbered tags on the
> carbs. Is there a source for these tags?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 01:48:20 EST
Subject: Re: Towing and Gearbox lube
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + shipping
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From jrsawyer2002 <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 00:33:16 -0800
Subject: Button to see the latest version)
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 06:41:02 EST
Subject: Re: Oil draining tip
Rick
In a message dated 3/16/03 1:27:35 AM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<<Anyone care to try this BMW oil draining tip on their
Healey and report back to the list...
Come on, who's first?
Dean BN7
95' RRover
88 535is
---------------------------------
Subject: Oil Changing Was/ re: Oil Change Intervals
I used to be a Castrol GTX freak changing it
every 3k miles
rigorously in the older models. With newer oil
compositions, I find
that 5k miles oil and filter intervals in the E36 //M3
keeps the engine
nicely clean. Unwantingly, I got to see this when I
had to pull the
head at 60k miles.
In the //M motor, I fill it with 8 quarts //Mobil
1 5w30. Then
add
a quart again between 3 and 4 k miles.
While some complain about poor oil consumption in //M
motors, I believe
a thorough break period in when the car was new has
everything to do
with how little oil my motor consumes now at 80k
miles.
Btw, there's a lot of heavy crud that stays in
the bottom of the
oil pan if you only let the oil drip for a few
minutes. Most dealers
and oil change shops don't even let it drip for that
long. Some suck
the oil out without even pulling the plug.
If you have the time, drive the left front tire
up on a ramp.
Maybe a 2x4 or two under the left rear tire too. Set
up your drain
pan, and then with the engine running, pull the drain
plug. The vacuum
keeps the oil in. When you shut the engine, you then
get the heavier
stuff glopping out first.
Clean out the oil filter housing thoroughly. I
also then pour a
few ounces of new oil into the filter housing to flush
the passageways.
In this manner, you will find the engine can take
24 hours or more
to fully stop dripping. Then just short of removing
and degreasing the
oil pan, you've got out all the slimiest stuff that
there is to remove.
Do remember to install the new o rings and washers
that come in the box
with the new filter.
Tip: Fill the oil filter housing with oil to assist
in getting
immediate oil pressure when you first restart the car.
On the Road,
jk
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 08:13:23 -0600
Subject: Re: SU Carb tags
> Well, for $500 ....
>
>
> ;)
>
> You might try Clark's Spares, or Burlen: http://www.burlen.co.uk/
>
>
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:41 PM
> Subject: SU Carb tags
>
>
> > Anyone know where I can get a couple carb tags? I just rebuilt a couple
HD6
> > carbs to 1959 3000 specs and want to put the proper numbered tags on the
> > carbs. Is there a source for these tags?
> >
> > Mike B
> > 59 BT7
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 08:35:51 -0600
Subject: Stop Leak Information
I made it to Detroit and two years later I changed the water pump.
Don
BN7 Sold
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 07:29:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil draining tip
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 10:09:40 -0700
Subject: Wax
Looking for comments on wax. I've used Zymol for years but hear great
things about Auto Glym.... anyway... my BJ8 will be done soon, and my new
Mini Cooper S will be here early this coming week (yeah!) .. soooo...
anythoughts... vendores for Auto Glym in the States?
Thanks.. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 10:09:32 -0700
Subject: Engine # Tags
As I saw the Carb tags query, it reminder me I need a new engine number tag
for my BJ8. Does anyone know of a vender that makes them?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 ... in for final paint... interior in the mail back from Heritage ...
aiming for Memorial Day
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 09:41:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine # Tags
This would be Clarke Spares & Restorations (Todd Clarke) in Doylestown PA.
215-348-0595
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 9:09 AM
Subject: Engine # Tags
> Hi all..
>
> As I saw the Carb tags query, it reminder me I need a new engine number
tag
> for my BJ8. Does anyone know of a vender that makes them?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 14:08:36 -0500
Subject: Reflector tip
For his BJ7 resto my friend had to replace one of his reflectors. The
replacement of course was generic, not Lucas. I had a lens on had with lots
of scratches so I decided why not try.
I buffed the face of the lens with Jewelers rouge and bench mounted buffing
wheel. In less than 5 minues I was done and the results were near excellent!
I was even able to take out one rather deep scratch. Just be careful at the
edges as you can affect the raised lettering.
Keith Pennell
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 20:15:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
- Thomas Alva Edison
> Hey HoYo
> Many years ago I was driving my 49 Mercury from Los Angeles to Detroit.
> Somewhere in Illinois I started leaking water from the water pump. I called
> my brother-in-law in Henderson Kentucky. He told me to go to a drugstore
> and buy a pound box of flax seed and dump in the radiator. I did. It
> worked.
>
> I made it to Detroit and two years later I changed the water pump.
>
> Don
> BN7 Sold
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
> breath away"
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:04:24 -0500
Subject: Re: stop leak
Years ago some American auto manufactureres used Bars Leak(sp) in every new
engine that rolled off the assembly line, due to casting defects. The little
pellets would become soft due to the water heat, and then find their way to
the void (water flow to the leak) and then fill it for good. They felt it
was cheaper to add a bottle of the stuff rather than have to deal with an
engine problem later.
I tried this stuff in my Chevy Blazer years ago when I found coolant had
been flowing into my oil sump. I was a bit hesitant, but decided to give it
a try rather than spend a lot of money on engine work. I dumped it in, took
the truck for a drive, and never had another problem. Although, I always
wondered what happened to the rest of the pellets.....
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:40 PM
Subject: stop leak
> in a pinch i've used a can of black pepper,you know the kind you cook with
> as a temp. stop leak.
> if you must use a chemical stop leak, my i recommend "Barr's Stop
> Leak"....recommended to me by my now deceased (at an early age) Fiat
> (factory trained) Dealer mechanic,and i quote,"we put a jar in every Fiat
we
> ever sold as soon as it was unloaded at the dealer". Funky lookin' stuff
> with fish egg lookin' balls in it. Saved my arse many a time, and some
times
> for considerable lenghts of time,not to forshorten our pint money on minor
> repairs!! HoYo
> ----- Original Message -----
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 16:24:48 -0600
Subject: setting the Jet adjusting screws
I have reread the section on adjustment of the "jet adjusting screw" and I
have no clue how to proceed.
Can someone tell me how do we establish a preliminary "rough" setting and
then fine tune the jet adjusting screw?
Brian
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 16:29:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Dipstick Length
Cheers,
Chris
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 16:30:47 -0600
Subject: Re: stop leak
> Hi,
>
> Years ago some American auto manufactureres used Bars Leak(sp) in every
new
> engine that rolled off the assembly line, due to casting defects. The
little
> pellets would become soft due to the water heat, and then find their way
to
> the void (water flow to the leak) and then fill it for good. They felt it
> was cheaper to add a bottle of the stuff rather than have to deal with an
> engine problem later.
>
> I tried this stuff in my Chevy Blazer years ago when I found coolant had
> been flowing into my oil sump. I was a bit hesitant, but decided to give
it
> a try rather than spend a lot of money on engine work. I dumped it in,
took
> the truck for a drive, and never had another problem. Although, I always
> wondered what happened to the rest of the pellets.....
>
> Scott Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:40 PM
> Subject: stop leak
>
>
> > in a pinch i've used a can of black pepper,you know the kind you cook
with
> > as a temp. stop leak.
> > if you must use a chemical stop leak, my i recommend "Barr's Stop
> > Leak"....recommended to me by my now deceased (at an early age) Fiat
> > (factory trained) Dealer mechanic,and i quote,"we put a jar in every
Fiat
> we
> > ever sold as soon as it was unloaded at the dealer". Funky lookin' stuff
> > with fish egg lookin' balls in it. Saved my arse many a time, and some
> times
> > for considerable lenghts of time,not to forshorten our pint money on
minor
> > repairs!! HoYo
> > ----- Original Message -----
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:34:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
| Chaynne pepper works great too. I rebuilt a V6 chevy engine and we had
| weeping from the head gasket. The pepper stopped it almost
| immediately.--
| Ira Erbs
| Digs-4 Solutions
| For training,network,PC and
| Macintosh
| "Pretty much everything will come
| to him who hustles
| while he waits."
|
| - Thomas Alva Edison
| > Hey HoYo
| > Many years ago I was driving my 49 Mercury from Los Angeles to Detroit.
| > Somewhere in Illinois I started leaking water from the water pump. I
called
| > my brother-in-law in Henderson Kentucky. He told me to go to a
drugstore
| > and buy a pound box of flax seed and dump in the radiator. I did. It
| > worked.
| >
| > I made it to Detroit and two years later I changed the water pump.
| >
| > Don
| > BN7 Sold
| > "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take
our
| > breath away"
|
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:35:24 EST
Subject: Re: Oil draining tip
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 +shipping
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:02:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
(anon)
----- Original Message -----
> Chaynne pepper works great too. I rebuilt a V6 chevy engine and we had
> weeping from the head gasket. The pepper stopped it almost
> immediately.--
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Pretty much everything will come
> to him who hustles
> while he waits."
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 15:26:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil Change Interval
My Austin Healey Workshop Manual (red and light blue colored hardbound
part no. AKD 1179H) published by BMC Service Division and copywrited
"The British Motor Corporation Limited 1968" for Austin Healey 100-6
(series BN4 and BN6) and 3000 (MK I and II series BN7 and BT7, and MKII
and MKIII sports convertible series BJ7 and BJ8) states in section Q
Lubrication:
Engine and Gearbox - all conditions down to 5 degrees C/ 41 degrees F:
BP Energol SAE 40 or Super Visco-Static 20W/50
Castrol XL
Duckham's Q20/50
Esso Motor Oil 40/50, Esso Motor Oil 40, Esso
Extra Motor Oil 20/40
Filtrate Heavy, Filtrate 20W/50
Mobiloil AF, Mobiloil Special 20W/40
Shell Super Motor Oil, Shell X-100 40, Shell X-100 Multigrade 20W/40 or
20W/50
Sternol WW40 or WW Multigrade 20W/50
Engine and Gearbox - all conditions between 5 degrees C / 41 degrees F
and -12 degrees C / 10 degrees F:
BP Energol SAE 20W, Super Visco-Static 10W/40 or Visco Static
Castrolite or Castrol XL
Duckham's Q20/50 or Q5500
Esso Motor Oil 20, 20W/30 or Esso Extra Motor Oil 10W/30
Filtrate Zero or Filtrate 10W/30
Mobiloil Arctic or Mobiloil Special 10W/30, Mobiloil Special 10W40
Shell Super Motor Oil, Shell X-100 20W, Shell X-100 Multigrade 10W/30 or
20W/40 or 20W/50 Sternol WW 20 or WW multigrade 10W/40 or 20W/50
Engine and Gearbox - all conditions below -12 degrees C / 10 degrees F:
BP Energol SAE 10W or Super Visco-Static 10W/40 or Visco-Static
Castrol Z or Castrolite
Duckham's Q5500
Esso Motor oil 10W, Esso Extra motor Oil 10W/30
Filtrate Sub-Zero 10W or Filtrate 10W/30
Mobiloil Special 10W/30, Mobiloil 10W or Mobloil Super 10W/40
Shell Super Motor Oil or Shell X-100 10W or Shell X-100 Multigrade
10W/30
Sternol WW 10 or WW multigrade 10W/40
These multigrade full additive motor oil recomendations were published
in the BMC workshop manual in 1968. They were still handling warranty
claims at this time so it is reasonable to conclude that the
recommendations were made with input from the Laycock de Normanville
overdrive manuacturer and the gearbox manufacturer who were also liable
for failures under warranty.
As I bought my 1960 BT7 in February 1968 and acquired my hardbound 1968
factory published Workshop Manual within a year or so, it does not
contain any "urban legends" which have grown over the past 35 years.
Have any of the repair shops actually run a freshly rebuilt transmission
and overdrive for thousands of mile with non-additive oil ("straight
mineral oil") and compared internal wear to another freshly rebuilt
transmission and overdrive run for the same number of miles with a
multi-grade motor oil with full additive package (detergent, dispersant,
anti-foam, anti-wear, anti-rust, etc.)?
I ran cheap SAE 30 motor oil in my transmission and overdrive for years.
When I had trouble with sluggish overdrive operation when it was over
100 degrees F outside, I looked in the Workshop Manual and changed to
20W/50 using Union 76 20W/50 High-Performance Motor Oil (Union Oil
Company of California, then Unocal, then Tosco, then Phillips 66, now
Conoco/Phillips). My overdrive has worked flawlessly and shifts very
crisply for the past 10 years with the 20W/50 motor oil.
I hope this ancient historical data helps clear up some confusion.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Union Oil Company of California (1972-84)
Graduate of Brea Research Center's Advanced Products Course
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:35:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: Stop Leak Information
> Yeah, but I bet the engine ran a little hot after that! (sorry couldn't
> resist)
>
> (anon)
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > Chaynne pepper works great too. I rebuilt a V6 chevy engine and we had
> > weeping from the head gasket. The pepper stopped it almost
> > immediately.--
> > Ira Erbs
> > Digs-4 Solutions
> > For training,network,PC and
> > Macintosh
> > "Pretty much everything will come
> > to him who hustles
> > while he waits."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 18:33:54 -0600
Subject: Brakes again--61 BT7
Thanks god its Silicone!
Brian
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:20:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
You've probably overfilled your reservoir. The top of
the reservoir has a air vent in it to allow air into
the system - the level of your brake fluid will change
as your brakes wear. This vent can also let fluid out
as you drive around and the fluid sloshes around the
reservoir.
Don't fill the reservoir so high.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Any thoughts on why I get hydraulic brake/clutch
> fluid coming out the top of
> the reservoir,....even with the cap on?
>
> Thanks god its Silicone!
>
> Brian
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 21:49:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 20:33:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: setting the Jet adjusting screws
The rough setting for all SU carbs is (with the manual
choke levers in the off position) the top of the brass
jet should be flush with the bottom of the throat
body.
If it is a little lower (i.e. say a 1/32 " low or
more, it can't hurt as this will make the mixture a
little rich). It should never be adjusted higher than
the bottom of the throat body, otherwise it may
contact the dashpot piston.
You may also want to check your needles. The mounting
edge of the needle (i.e. the top part of the
needle)should be flush with the bottom of the dashpot
piston.
If all of these things are ok, then you probably just
need to adjust the jet (mixture) adjusting screw.
Get the car to operating temperature and then set it
up as you have described in your email (i.e. releasing
the throttle clamps etc etc). If the car is starting
to die off on you as you are undoing all these things,
try making the mixture richer... you do this by
screwing the jet adjusting screw downwards. If this
doesn't help, it may be too lean... then screw it
upwards. You can also back out the slow speed screw
even more (open it up as much as you can) and then
adjust it to the closed position once you can maintain
a fast idle with it open.
Hope that helps...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I have read the shop manual repeatedly on adjusting
> the carbs on my 61 (HD
> carbs converted to manual choke) I have released
> the jet connecting rod,
> released the pinch clamp that ties the two carb
> throttle shafts together,
> adjusted the slow running screws out 2 1/4 turns.
> slacked off the fast idle
> screws and ------that's where I am lost,
>
> I have reread the section on adjustment of the "jet
> adjusting screw" and I
> have no clue how to proceed.
>
> Can someone tell me how do we establish a
> preliminary "rough" setting and
> then fine tune the jet adjusting screw?
>
> Brian
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 04:02:21 EST
Subject: Radiator thanks.
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 08:17:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Wax
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 12:09 PM
Subject: Wax
> Hi again,
>
> Looking for comments on wax. I've used Zymol for years but hear great
> things about Auto Glym.... anyway... my BJ8 will be done soon, and my new
> Mini Cooper S will be here early this coming week (yeah!) .. soooo...
> anythoughts... vendores for Auto Glym in the States?
>
> Thanks.. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 10:43:46 -0500
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Randy Cooper
BT7
>>> "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net> 03/14/03 04:39PM >>>
Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have the
Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 17:10:37 -0600
Subject: test
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 17:34:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: British "Car"toon
Man I really am a nerd!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/14/03 7:57:52 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> robertlarson@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> >
>
http://www.daybydaycartoon.com/Cartoons/02-27-2003.gif
> >
> >
>
> I'm trying to think of a three-cylinder English car
> (six valves!).....
>
> Michael
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 21:53:17 -0500
Subject: Heat shield fit?
Listers
I am getting started on screwing components onto my recently completed BJ7
chassis. I started with the blanking plates followed by the Heat Shields. To
save money, I bought the shields from M*** while they were on sale a couple
years ago. According to their catalog, the complement of Heat Shields is
composed of two separate catalog numbers. One number represents the
firewalll/footwell set, while the under seat/muffler shield is the second cat
no.
Without going into a lot of detail as to why.....I have three seat/muffler
shields. Seems they were also in the firewalll/footwell set. I was responding
to a recent thread as to recording the dimensions of these before attaching to
the chassis when I discovered the seat/muffler shield is about 2-inches shorter
than the tired original that I have. The hole pattern is not even close to
matching the floor panel studs. I placed a call to M*** for an answer, but
have no answer yet. They did say they have not had any previous problems!
Could these shorter Heat Shields fit the earlier Healeys. Did they shrink?????
I do have dimensional sketches of all the heat shields except the problem one.
Ken Mason
BJ7 on the road to recovery
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 23:17:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
I want to take a new oil for my BJ8 and was told, that
the shell helix full synthetic 10W/60 would be a good
choice. I am a little bit afraid of taking full
synthetic oil - who has experiences in this direction
and which oil do you use?
happy healeying, Martin
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
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http://mail.Justice.com
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 04:50:36 -0500
Subject: Re: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
So far, I'm happy with it.
When do you take your first ride?
Regards
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend@justice.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 2:17 AM
Subject: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
> Hi,
>
> I want to take a new oil for my BJ8 and was told, that
> the shell helix full synthetic 10W/60 would be a good
> choice. I am a little bit afraid of taking full
> synthetic oil - who has experiences in this direction
> and which oil do you use?
>
> happy healeying, Martin
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 06:49:38 -0500
Subject: Re: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
I've been using Mobil 1 in my Volvo for several years and I am very happy
with it. I haven't noticed any differences, but I'm hoping the engine will
benefit in the long run. The only drawback that I know of is better chance
of oil leakage. Also, make sure the engine is fully broken in before you
begin using it.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend@justice.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 2:17 AM
Subject: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
> Hi,
>
> I want to take a new oil for my BJ8 and was told, that
> the shell helix full synthetic 10W/60 would be a good
> choice. I am a little bit afraid of taking full
> synthetic oil - who has experiences in this direction
> and which oil do you use?
>
> happy healeying, Martin
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:14:19 -0500
Subject: Re heat shield fit
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:41:33 EST
Subject: Re: SU Carb tags
No financial interest... Just a very satisfied client for many years.
Thanks,
John
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From "Thames, G. Troy" <GTT at TPGL.COM>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:54:47 -0500
Subject: Another outrigger questions
Troy
62 BT-7 Tricarb
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Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above
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From Andrew_Phillips at keane.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:17:22 -0500
Subject: Re: synthetic oil
Andy
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From KevinFitzgerald <kevin at fitzgerald.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:44:53 -0500
Subject: Over Heating
Does any one have any thoughts or suggestions of what I should try next?
I am really at a loss as to what may be causing the problem or what I
should try. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kevin
66 BJ8
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:53:11 -0600
Subject: how are rear seat pans attached on 61 BT7
They talk about and show "Seat Pan Studs" which were apparently welded onto
at least the BJ8 rear seat pans. I have looked in the Moss Catalog and they
show, washer and nut assembly but show it as not available, can someone tell
me if the moss illustration is correct and if so, a basic idea of what kind
of a screw to use, and,.....if the seat is upholstered,..do the screws show
on top of the upholstery, or are they somehow secured to the pan prior to
upholstering?
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:05:57 -0600
Subject: HD carb jet setting
After removing the Dashpot assembly, so that the top of the jet is visible
and undoing all the clamps for the throttle shaft, backing off the fast idle
adjustment screws till they are in operative, adjust the slow run screws out
2 1/4 turns.
Now, slack off the Jet adjusting screws, requires a long but very small
flat tip screwdriver, loosen these until you can feel play between the
adjustment screw and the adjustment surface (web) beneath it.
Then, turn the jet adjusting screw slowly clockwise while moving the jet
adjusting arm and screw up and down feeling for free play, when all the
free play is gone, you have reached your baseline. From here, one
clockwise turn of the screw clockwise will have the jet level or flush with
the carb throat, an additional half turn will drop it slightly below this
point which is recommended by some for a slightly richer mix..
That should get things pretty close. Further fine tuning is per the manual.
I realize that with the dashpot removed, that there is no need to baseline
or count screw turns, just turn it until it looks right, but I wanted a
"formula" that I could use quickly in the future without having to remove
the dashpots.
there you have it.
Brian
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:16:34 +0100
Subject: Spoke wheels
I just had my rusty 72-spoke 15" Dunlop wheels refurbished by a very well
reputed company: new spokes in the outer row, some renewed in the inner row,
dents in the rims were pressed out.
After that another company shotblasted, powdercoated and varnished the wheels
and today new Michelin 175-15 ZX tires were fitted.
Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5 wheels
wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is turned.
Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim may have
on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy who
just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
You comments will be welcome, as always.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:46:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Another outrigger questions
That is correct. The front of the front outriggers (body brackets) and
the rear of the rear outriggers are at right angles to the frame rails.
A word of caution.
Be very careful to get the outside vertical face of the inner sill the
correct distance from the frame rail. If you put in a thicker than
standard inner sill or position it to far away from the frame rails the
doors will never fully close when the liners are on them!! Been there
etc.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thames, G. Troy
Sent: 18-Mar-03 3:55 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Another outrigger questions
First let me say thank you to all that have answered my questions
recently.
I'm afraid I would be re-doing alot of things if it weren't for some of
the
help I've received from you all.
Now to my question, I'm replacing the front passenger side outrigger,
and
want to make sure I have it in the correct position as I know how
important
it will be for everything else to line up. Unfortunately, my old one
was in
such poor shape, I don't trust the measurements I took off of it. In
looking at the frame diagram in the shop manual, it shows only the
dimension
between the front and rear outrigger ends. It looks like the front edge
of
the front outrigger is at a 90 degree angle to the main frame rail. Is
this
correct? I checked the front outrigger on the other side and the front
edge
on it appears to be at 90 degrees to the main frame rail.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Troy
62 BT-7 Tricarb
CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED
Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above
communication, the information contained herein may be an
attorney-client
privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication
is
intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the
reader
of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified
that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
strictly prohibited.
If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether
it
is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:57:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Over Heating
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:00:39 EST
Subject: Re: Over Heating
I had a similar problem with my '65 BJ8 last summer. It ruined my intended
trip to Elkhart Lake WI last summer. I had to have my radiator rodded out,
which you should have eliminated by the rad. replacement. I removed my water
pump and found that it was fine, but while I had it out I flushed water
though the block. The drain valve on the side of the block was completely
blocked when I started. I used an apropriately sized drill bit, had held, to
clean out the crud after I removed the valve. after more rinsing through the
block I got good flow every direction I could put the hose in, and through
the block drain. Since I did several things at once I can't say for sure
which did the most good, but I have had no trouble since then. By the way,
It may be a dumb question but do you have the shrouds in place that guide the
air from the grill area into the front of the radiator? Mine were missing
when I bought the car and I didn't realize it until the overheating problem.
They will make a big difference.
Hope this helps.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:15:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
ps. i run minilites which stay round.
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I just had my rusty 72-spoke 15" Dunlop wheels refurbished by a very well
> reputed company: new spokes in the outer row, some renewed in the inner row,
> dents in the rims were pressed out.
>
> After that another company shotblasted, powdercoated and varnished the wheels
> and today new Michelin 175-15 ZX tires were fitted.
>
> Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5 wheels
> wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is turned.
>
> Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim may have
> on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
> especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy who
> just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
>
> You comments will be welcome, as always.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:35:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
That's just plain unacceptable.
> Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim may
> have on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
> especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy
> who just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
There should be no visible runout. If a good bicycle wheel builder can get
runout and concentricity within a thousanth of an inch or so, then you know
that something similar is possible with automobile wheels.
Your wheels are so far out that I'd be inclined to think that the rebuilder
just overlooked the truing step somehow.
--
John Miller
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:44:58 -0800
Subject: over heating
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:46:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Over Heating
This subject has been discussed at length previously so you will
probably be able to get lots of helpful hints from the archives.
One thing that springs to mind is the air deflectors at the sides of the
radiator. If these are not installed hot air will re-circulate through
the radiator core and severely limit the radiators ability to cool the
engine
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of KevinFitzgerald
Sent: 18-Mar-03 4:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Over Heating
Hello I am new to this list so I hope this type of question is ok. Any
thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I have a 1966 BJ8 3000 that is always over heating. I have so far
replaced the radiator with a new more efficient one, added a Texas
cooler fan, new thermostat, checked the water pump, rebuilt the
carburettors, and had cylinder head removed and cleaned. Yet the engine
still over heats in traffic. It runs very well until stop and go traffic
and then heats up very quickly. I am wondering if may be there is a
blockage in the cylinder block which is effecting the circulation.
Does any one have any thoughts or suggestions of what I should try next?
I am really at a loss as to what may be causing the problem or what I
should try. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kevin
66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 19:04:40 EST
Subject: Shrouding for a 100
> One thing that springs to mind is the air deflectors at the sides of the
> radiator. If these are not installed hot air will re-circulate through
> the radiator core and severely limit the radiators ability to cool the
> engine
>
Mike--
I recall this string from last year, and wonder if you have ever seen
shrouding on a 100. I've often thought that one could fabricate a
sheet-metal insert much like the 6-cylinder rallye cars have in them, with
one hole on the right side for the fresh-air trunking and another on the left
for the cold-air box air duct. I wouldn't want to remove the grill for
aesthetic reasons, but I wonder if this has been done on any 4's.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:59:57 -0700
Subject: overheating, Kevin Fitzgerald
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:01:06 -0500
Subject: Something is wierd with my front wings!
It involves the area where the flash mounts. The left side has the "vent hole"
as I call it. I really don't know what the purpose for the large slit under
the flash.
The right hand side only has the three small holes for mounting the flash. No
Vent.
Can anybody shed some light on this and may be what the "Vent hole" is for?
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:04:55 -0500
Subject: something wierd - addendum
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from what supplier the kingpins were purchased unless I paid him $500 for the
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:08:44 EST
Subject: Kingpin recall--resolution
On a hunch I contacted Paul and he remembered the car and gladly informed
Moss that the pins were, in fact, supplied by them, thus allowing me to
qualify for the recall program. I just spoke with Kelvin Daoud of Moss and
confirmed that I will be getting replacement pins and will receive a $300
labor allowance upon return of the old pins.
Though I have never done business with or met him, Paul sure came through for
me--it's great that there are helpful and professionals like him out there.
Thanks Paul!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:16:12 -0800
Subject: Re: how are rear seat pans attached on 61 BT7
Originally, only the BJ8 had studs (8/32, or maybe 10/32) - they were welded
to the rear seat pan in 4 positions, and dropped through holes (about 1/4
inch) in the tonneau panel and were secured from below with flat washers,
lock washers, and nuts.
This is generally a pain on BJ8's in terms of getting to the fuel pump by
the side of the road from above, as most Healey owners are bound to have to
do sooner or later, sometimes repeatedly! (I leave the attatching hardware
off my RH rear seat pan - a rubber vaccuum hose sleeve on each stud is
enough to hold the pan in place, and it can simply be lifted out if
necessary.)
All the 4-seat 6 cyl. Healeys before the BJ8 used 4 chrome self tapping
screws on each seat pan to hold it in place, with the screw heads very
visible inside the car. Your BT7 would be correct to be redone this way.
If the sheet metal of the tonneau panel was not replaced, you should be able
to see the 8 holes, usually fairly mangled or enlarged.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 1:53 PM
Subject: how are rear seat pans attached on 61 BT7
I was watching the moss video on re-upholstering the interior on a BJ8 to
get some general direction on some aspects of my car.
They talk about and show "Seat Pan Studs" which were apparently welded onto
at least the BJ8 rear seat pans. I have looked in the Moss Catalog and they
show, washer and nut assembly but show it as not available, can someone tell
me if the moss illustration is correct and if so, a basic idea of what kind
of a screw to use, and,.....if the seat is upholstered,..do the screws show
on top of the upholstery, or are they somehow secured to the pan prior to
upholstering?
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 19:40:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Something is wierd with my front wings!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
> Ok, I'm still early on in the restoration of my '56 BN-2 but, I have
noticed a
> weird thing about the two front fenders.
> I think these fenders are original but there is a difference between them.
>
> It involves the area where the flash mounts. The left side has the "vent
hole"
> as I call it. I really don't know what the purpose for the large slit
under
> the flash.
>
> The right hand side only has the three small holes for mounting the flash.
No
> Vent.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:55:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Over Heating
What kind of thermostat are you using? What is the
temperature and where did you buy it?
Does your temperature spike real high then come down
after a minute or so?
Is where you live a hot climate or a cold climate?
My suspicion is you are using a cheap quality or high
temperature thermostat.
In general, the best thermostat to use is a 180 deg,
large opening thermostat (or balanced sleeve
thermostat... if you can find it... probably not).
There have been many complaints about thermostats
bought from Moss Motors... so if you bought one there,
that may be the likely cause of your overheating.
Go to your local auto supply store and buy a
Robertshaw thermostat (they are very good quality) or
there is also a german company that makes a very nice
large aperture thermostat that works well also (i
forgot the name of it).
Another thing worth trying is running only 10 to 20%
antifreeze to water (water conducts heat much better
than atifreeze). If you do this, you should add a
bottle of water wetter (Redline makes a good one) to
your radiator.
I have a '64 BJ8 with me here in Hong Kong (it is very
hot and humid) and I have no problems in stop and go
traffic.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- KevinFitzgerald <kevin@fitzgerald.net> wrote:
> Hello I am new to this list so I hope this type of
> question is ok. Any
> thoughts are greatly appreciated.
> I have a 1966 BJ8 3000 that is always over heating.
> I have so far
> replaced the radiator with a new more efficient one,
> added a Texas
> cooler fan, new thermostat, checked the water pump,
> rebuilt the
> carburettors, and had cylinder head removed and
> cleaned. Yet the engine
> still over heats in traffic. It runs very well until
> stop and go traffic
> and then heats up very quickly. I am wondering if
> may be there is a
> blockage in the cylinder block which is effecting
> the circulation.
>
> Does any one have any thoughts or suggestions of
> what I should try next?
> I am really at a loss as to what may be causing the
> problem or what I
> should try. Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Kevin
>
> 66 BJ8
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:56:59 -0700
Subject: Fenders, Rick Neves
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:03:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Over Heating
Related to John Trumpe's post: Make sure that the vaccuum advance unit is
working. I have heard of overheating BJ8's when it's not right - this
affects the ignition timing.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "KevinFitzgerald" <kevin@fitzgerald.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 1:44 PM
Subject: Over Heating
Hello I am new to this list so I hope this type of question is ok. Any
thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I have a 1966 BJ8 3000 that is always over heating. I have so far
replaced the radiator with a new more efficient one, added a Texas
cooler fan, new thermostat, checked the water pump, rebuilt the
carburettors, and had cylinder head removed and cleaned. Yet the engine
still over heats in traffic. It runs very well until stop and go traffic
and then heats up very quickly. I am wondering if may be there is a
blockage in the cylinder block which is effecting the circulation.
Does any one have any thoughts or suggestions of what I should try next?
I am really at a loss as to what may be causing the problem or what I
should try. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kevin
66 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:59:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Something is wierd with my front wings!
Your left fender is likely an original factory fender,
as BN1s and BN2s came with this hidden hole under the
chrome swage slash.
Your right fender is probably a replacement fender (or
maybe they stopped cutting the holes in later BN2s I
don't know)??
At the end of the day, it's nothing to be that
concerned about as long as the fenders look the same
and the wheel arch cutouts are the same dimentions
between the two....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 Bj8
--- Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com> wrote:
> Ok, I'm still early on in the restoration of my '56
> BN-2 but, I have noticed a
> weird thing about the two front fenders.
> I think these fenders are original but there is a
> difference between them.
>
> It involves the area where the flash mounts. The
> left side has the "vent hole"
> as I call it. I really don't know what the purpose
> for the large slit under
> the flash.
>
> The right hand side only has the three small holes
> for mounting the flash. No
> Vent.
>
> Can anybody shed some light on this and may be what
> the "Vent hole" is for?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:16:48 -0800
Subject: Spoke wheels
Bad news! I remember being told at some time that the maximum out of round
spec. for wire wheels is 1/16 inch 'hop'. Also the same for 'run-out' -
wobble - 1/16 inch. (always at the point where the tire bead rests on the
rim).
Sounds like your wheels are way out - the car will not run smooth - in fact
it will vibrate like hell!
Some wheel rims are too bent to ever be true again - even the most diligent
artist will not be able to get them right. Been there, done that!
I fear that your best fix may be to 'bite the bullet' and buy new wheels.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Spoke wheels
Listers,
I just had my rusty 72-spoke 15" Dunlop wheels refurbished by a very well
reputed company: new spokes in the outer row, some renewed in the inner row,
dents in the rims were pressed out.
After that another company shotblasted, powdercoated and varnished the
wheels
and today new Michelin 175-15 ZX tires were fitted.
Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5 wheels
wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is turned.
Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim may
have
on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy
who
just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
You comments will be welcome, as always.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:27:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Over Heating
There are many potential causes of overheating, and you will probably get a
ton of different responses. Since I experienced the exact same symptoms as
you I will limit my response to what the problem was in my case. When I
first purchased my BN7 I had similar overheating problems, fine on the road
but as soon as I hit traffic it overheated. After inspecting the cooling
system thoroughly, replacing the fan belt, hoses, thermostat, and
installing a six blade fan, I finally checked the ignition timing. It was
set at 5% AFTER TDC instead of 5% before TDC (I think BJ8's are set at 15%
before TDC). I properly set the timing and the overheating problem was a
thing of the past. Ran a hell of lot better too! I don't know if this is
your problem but it costs nothing to check.
Good Luck,
John
>From: KevinFitzgerald <kevin@fitzgerald.net>
>Reply-To: KevinFitzgerald <kevin@fitzgerald.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Over Heating Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:44:53 -0500
>
>Hello I am new to this list so I hope this type of question is ok. Any
>thoughts are greatly appreciated.
>I have a 1966 BJ8 3000 that is always over heating. I have so far
>replaced the radiator with a new more efficient one, added a Texas
>cooler fan, new thermostat, checked the water pump, rebuilt the
>carburettors, and had cylinder head removed and cleaned. Yet the engine
>still over heats in traffic. It runs very well until stop and go traffic
>and then heats up very quickly. I am wondering if may be there is a
>blockage in the cylinder block which is effecting the circulation.
>
>Does any one have any thoughts or suggestions of what I should try next?
>I am really at a loss as to what may be causing the problem or what I
>should try. Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
>Kevin
>
>66 BJ8
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:28:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission Cover
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 19:39:51 -0700
Subject: Re: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
Bill Lawrence
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> I have tried this a couple ways, Brian.
>
> First, I used a small hand pump oiler (can get these at your local Advance or
> Autozone store) that holds several ounces (or cc's, if you prefer) of fluid.
> To that, I attached a length of clear plastic tubing (available at Home Depot,
> etc.) to fit the nozzle of the oiler. It took about 7 oilers-full to fill up
> the housing from empty, and gets to be a bit tedious squeezing the oiler
> handle and filling up the reservoir frequently. It's also difficult to get
> at the filler hole with the car sitting level on its wheels.
>
> My latest technique is to remove the rear seats (BJ8) and drain/squeeze the
> oil directly from the quart bottles from above after attaching a
> suitably-sized length of clear plastic tubing to the bottle nozzle (make sure
> it fits tightly onto the nozzle so you don't get any surprises). I place an
> old towel on the floor under the axle housing to catch the overflow, and fill
> until the oil runs out the filler hole. I do this with the car sitting level
> on its wheels.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Collins
> To: Healey list
> Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 4:39 PM
> Subject: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
>
> Any suggestions on the best way to top up the rear end fluid? I have the
> Castrol Quart bottles. Looks like I am going to have trouble getting the
> bottle up high enough to pour or squeeze it in.
>
> I'd appreciate some ideas.
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From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:08:50 EST
Subject: Re: synthetic oil - who has experiences?
Bob Humphreys
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:41:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy who
> just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
WHY WOULD YOU TRUST YOUR LIFE WITH SOMEBODY LIKE THIS. Not me.
Send them to Hendrix or Dayton, maybe they can straigten them out. OOPs
that would be a long way for you.
Mark
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:38:53 EST
Subject: Re: Something is wierd with my front wings!
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:22:11 -0800
Subject: RE: Kingpin recall--resolution
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> As I mentioned a few days ago, the previous owner (actually he
> was the third
> PO back) that commissioned the restoration of my wife's BN7 would
> not tell me
> from what supplier the kingpins were purchased unless I paid him
> $500 for the
> information, and unless I could demonstrate to Moss that they were
> the sellers
> I would not be eligible for their recall program. He did,
> however, mention
> that Paul Tsikuris of Tsikuris Classic Restorations in Lakeland, FL had
> "done some work" on the car.
>
> On a hunch I contacted Paul and he remembered the car and gladly informed
> Moss that the pins were, in fact, supplied by them, thus allowing me to
> qualify for the recall program. I just spoke with Kelvin Daoud
> of Moss and
> confirmed that I will be getting replacement pins and will receive a $300
> labor allowance upon return of the old pins.
>
> Though I have never done business with or met him, Paul sure came
> through for
> me--it's great that there are helpful and professionals like him
> out there.
> Thanks Paul!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:14:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
If they were PERFECT before the tires were mounted and severely imperfect after
the tires were mounted then there may be problems with the tire being out of
round
or out of balance. This could happen but t I doubt it.
The shop I go to then puts them on the cars and balances them again.
all 4 wheels are spun and there is no noticeable wobble or bounce in any
direction.
Then you get in and drive 100 mph and see if they are still true! Yup, they are.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I just had my rusty 72-spoke 15" Dunlop wheels refurbished by a very well
> reputed company: new spokes in the outer row, some renewed in the inner row,
> dents in the rims were pressed out.
>
> After that another company shotblasted, powdercoated and varnished the wheels
> and today new Michelin 175-15 ZX tires were fitted.
>
> Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5 wheels
> wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is turned.
>
> Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim may have
> on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
> especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a guy who
> just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:21:35 +1100
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
You need to hold the wheel centre on the same machined tapers that the hub,
and knock off spinner, locate the rim. Not on the unmachined inner part of a
wire wheel. You generally need an adaptor to do this.
Check that first. If the tyre/ wheel balancer guy can't balance the wheels
on a machine off the car - get him to try balancing the wheels fitted on the
car.
If the wheels balance 'on the car' then you'll know to shoot the wheel
balancing mechanic - not the wheel rebuilder.
Alternatively - take the complete wheels with tyres to the wheel rebulder -
and see how he 'locates' the rims in his machine.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
> Jaap:
> Once the wheel is rebuilt it should run true in every direction before the
tire is
> mounted. this is exactly like truing a bicycle wheel. There should be
virtually no
> movement left or right and none up and down. If there is I would say it is
less
> than 1/64 th of an inch. Once the wheel spins true then the tire can be
mounted
> and balanced.
>
> If they were PERFECT before the tires were mounted and severely imperfect
after
> the tires were mounted then there may be problems with the tire being out
of round
> or out of balance. This could happen but t I doubt it.
>
> The shop I go to then puts them on the cars and balances them again.
> all 4 wheels are spun and there is no noticeable wobble or bounce in any
> direction.
>
> Then you get in and drive 100 mph and see if they are still true! Yup,
they are.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E FHC
>
> Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > I just had my rusty 72-spoke 15" Dunlop wheels refurbished by a very
well
> > reputed company: new spokes in the outer row, some renewed in the inner
row,
> > dents in the rims were pressed out.
> >
> > After that another company shotblasted, powdercoated and varnished the
wheels
> > and today new Michelin 175-15 ZX tires were fitted.
> >
> > Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5
wheels
> > wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is turned.
> >
> > Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim
may have
> > on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero throw,
> > especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a
guy who
> > just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
> >
> > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> > 1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 05:25:54 -0000
Subject: setting the Jet adjusting screws
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 16:24:48 -0600
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: setting the Jet adjusting screws
I have read the shop manual repeatedly on adjusting the carbs on my 61 (HD
carbs converted to manual choke) I have released the jet connecting rod,
released the pinch clamp that ties the two carb throttle shafts together,
adjusted the slow running screws out 2 1/4 turns. slacked off the fast idle
screws and ------that's where I am lost,
I have reread the section on adjustment of the "jet adjusting screw" and I
have no clue how to proceed.
Can someone tell me how do we establish a preliminary "rough" setting and
then fine tune the jet adjusting screw?
Brian
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 21:28:13 +1100
Subject: Update to healey site
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:46:17 -0000
Subject: Re: stop leak
Back in the 1970s, we put Barr Seal (an industrial version of Barrs Leaks) into
the Sulzer diesel engines on British Rail to stop leaking between the crankcase
and the cylinder heads. These were large engines, some 2000bhp, and each
cylinder had its own head.
Hence, on a 16 cylinder machine, there were 16 coolant feeds and 16 returns -
plenty of scope for leaking!
Regards
Paul
>Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 17:04:24 -0500
>From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
>Subject: Re: stop leak
>Hi,
>Years ago some American auto manufactureres used Bars Leak(sp) in every new
>engine that rolled off the assembly line, due to casting defects. The little
>pellets would become soft due to the water heat, and then find their way to
>the void (water flow to the leak) and then fill it for good. They felt it
>was cheaper to add a bottle of the stuff rather than have to deal with an
>engine problem later.
>I tried this stuff in my Chevy Blazer years ago when I found coolant had
>been flowing into my oil sump. I was a bit hesitant, but decided to give it
>a try rather than spend a lot of money on engine work. I dumped it in, took
>the truck for a drive, and never had another problem. Although, I always
>wondered what happened to the rest of the pellets.....
>Scott Helms
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 06:56:29 EST
Subject: Re: Kingpin recall--resolution
> I hope you dropped a line to your PO telling him you got around his little
> blackmail. ;^)
>
>
I'm thinking about sending him a long cardboard storage tube to help him
insert his "file" in the proper aperture.
Best--Michael
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:11:35 EST
Subject: hardtop
Thanks
Price
60BT7
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:43:37 EST
Subject: Inner Front Wheel Arch - Holes
I have a later model BJ8 - K42790
When visiting with Bob Yule to have some work done, he noted that my inner
wheel arches are full of holes. They looked normal to me, since I've never
work on a variety of 3000s as he has.
The holes look properly punched and sequenced as if done at the factory. They
do not look haphazardly drilled. I thought they were additional cooling
ventilation. They are about 1 to 1.25" diameter and there are about 15-20 /
arch.
Was this the work of the PO or was there a factory design change to the
arches late in the BJ8 life.
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:34:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Shrouding for a 100
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: 18-Mar-03 7:05 PM
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Shrouding for a 100
Mike--
I recall this string from last year, and wonder if you have ever seen
shrouding on a 100. I've often thought that one could fabricate a
sheet-metal insert much like the 6-cylinder rallye cars have in them,
with one hole on the right side for the fresh-air trunking and another
on the left for the cold-air box air duct. I wouldn't want to remove
the grill for aesthetic reasons, but I wonder if this has been done on
any 4's.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
In a message dated 3/18/2003 6:48:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
One thing that springs to mind is the air deflectors at the sides of the
radiator. If these are not installed hot air will re-circulate through
the radiator core and severely limit the radiators ability to cool the
engine
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:50:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Inner Front Wheel Arch - Holes
I presume that you are talking about the front inner fenders but even if
you aren't I don't think there is any question that these holes are not
original and I'm sure Bob Yule would have confirmed this.
With 15 - 20 x 1" - 1 1/4" holes in each they must look like Swiss
Cheese.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
Sent: 19-Mar-03 7:44 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Inner Front Wheel Arch - Holes
Dear list,
I have a later model BJ8 - K42790
When visiting with Bob Yule to have some work done, he noted that my
inner
wheel arches are full of holes. They looked normal to me, since I've
never
work on a variety of 3000s as he has.
The holes look properly punched and sequenced as if done at the factory.
They
do not look haphazardly drilled. I thought they were additional cooling
ventilation. They are about 1 to 1.25" diameter and there are about
15-20 /
arch.
Was this the work of the PO or was there a factory design change to the
arches late in the BJ8 life.
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 09:05:55 -0500
Subject: Re: hardtop
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 7:11 AM
Subject: hardtop
> I'm looking into refurbishing the hardtop that came with my 60 BT7. What
are
> some sources other than Moss for the furflex type rubber seals that go
around
> the top.
>
> Thanks
> Price
> 60BT7
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 09:37:06 -0500
Subject: Fastener
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:05:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
> On Tuesday, March 18, 2003 17:16, Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> > Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5
> > wheels wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is
> > turned.
>
> That's just plain unacceptable.
>
> > Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim
may
> > have on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero
throw,
> > especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a
guy
> > who just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
>
> There should be no visible runout. If a good bicycle wheel builder can
get
> runout and concentricity within a thousanth of an inch or so, then you
know
> that something similar is possible with automobile wheels.
>
> Your wheels are so far out that I'd be inclined to think that the
rebuilder
> just overlooked the truing step somehow.
> --
> John Miller
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:41:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
You're right for the wrong reasons. :-). Truing a wheel doesn't require any
flexibility of the rim at all, PROVIDED THE RIM IS TRUE TO BEGIN WITH. But
yes, the trueness of an automobile wheel is at the mercy of the trueness of
the unlaced rim, for the reasons you state.
One order of magnitude worse then .001 is .010, and if the auto rim is within
that tolerance to begin with, you can certainly lace it to better than that.
Whether rims that good are available these days, I don't know.
However, I'm inclined to suspect that the problem, as another poster
suggested, is due to the mounting of the wheel on the balancing machine.
--
John Miller
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 09:49:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
> All,
> I want to categorically state that it is NOT possible to obtain the
> "trueness" possible with a bicycle wheel.
> The combination of the amount of available "yield" of an automobile rim
> and the relative strength of the threads in the spoke nipples and the
spokes
> is not going to allow trueing anyway near the order of magnitude you
> suggest..IMHO
>
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 4:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
>
>
> > On Tuesday, March 18, 2003 17:16, Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> > > Trying to dynamically balance the wheels it was found that 3 out of 5
> > > wheels wobbled severely:the rim dances up and down when the wheel is
> > > turned.
> >
> > That's just plain unacceptable.
> >
> > > Question: Does anyone know the official figure how much 'throw' a rim
> may
> > > have on a Dunlop spoked wheel? It will be impossible to obtain zero
> throw,
> > > especially on old wheels, but I'm afraid my wheels were repaired by a
> guy
> > > who just had been mardi-grassing for three days.
> >
> > There should be no visible runout. If a good bicycle wheel builder can
> get
> > runout and concentricity within a thousanth of an inch or so, then you
> know
> > that something similar is possible with automobile wheels.
> >
> > Your wheels are so far out that I'd be inclined to think that the
> rebuilder
> > just overlooked the truing step somehow.
> > --
> > John Miller
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:49:55 -0500
Subject: More info on my wierd wings!
Here is some more detail on the two wings.
My BN-2 is one of the last 50 to be manufactured so may be as some suggested
it was one of the bunch that got one of each (Vent - No vent). That's kind of
weird in itself.
The wing with the vent hole has what looks like lead filling around the back
side of the panel in the area where the swage line goes down and around the
wheel opening. But there is no downward swoosh on the outside. It (The swage)
ends as normal for a 100-4 at the top of the wheel opening.
The only place I've seen this (What looks like lead filling) mentioned, was on
Larry Varleys' site where he is repairing the right wing.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page19.html
Mine is on the left wing and I can only see the lead on the inside of the
panel. I haven't stripped the paint on the outside so I can't tell what's
going on there.
The right side does not have the lead nor a downward swoosh nor a vent hole as
I mentioned.
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:55:45 -0800
Subject: Re: hardtop
-Roland
On Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:11:35 EST, you wrote:
::I'm looking into refurbishing the hardtop that came with my 60 BT7. What are
::some sources other than Moss for the furflex type rubber seals that go around
::the top.
::
::Thanks
::Price
::60BT7
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From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:04:39 -0800
Subject: Fw: best way to top up the Rear end Gear oil in a 61 MK! BT7
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From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 10:09:34 -0800
Subject: Inner Front Wheel Arch - Holes
> Dear list,
>
> I have a later model BJ8 - K42790
>
> When visiting with Bob Yule to have some work done, he noted that my inner
> wheel arches are full of holes. They looked normal to me, since I've never
> work on a variety of 3000s as he has.
>
> The holes look properly punched and sequenced as if done at the factory.
They
> do not look haphazardly drilled. I thought they were additional cooling
> ventilation. They are about 1 to 1.25" diameter and there are about 15-20
/
> arch.
>
> Was this the work of the PO or was there a factory design change to the
> arches late in the BJ8 life.
>
> Thanks and Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:31:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: Spoke wheels
> On Wednesday, March 19, 2003 10:05, frogeye wrote:
> > I want to categorically state that it is NOT possible to obtain the
> > "trueness" possible with a bicycle wheel.
> > The combination of the amount of available "yield" of an automobile
rim
> > and the relative strength of the threads in the spoke nipples and the
> > spokes is not going to allow trueing anyway near the order of magnitude
you
> > suggest..IMHO
>
> You're right for the wrong reasons. :-). Truing a wheel doesn't require
any
> flexibility of the rim at all, PROVIDED THE RIM IS TRUE TO BEGIN WITH.
But
> yes, the trueness of an automobile wheel is at the mercy of the trueness
of
> the unlaced rim, for the reasons you state.
>
> One order of magnitude worse then .001 is .010, and if the auto rim is
within
> that tolerance to begin with, you can certainly lace it to better than
that.
> Whether rims that good are available these days, I don't know.
>
> However, I'm inclined to suspect that the problem, as another poster
> suggested, is due to the mounting of the wheel on the balancing machine.
> --
> John Miller
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 21:24:01 +0100
Subject: Spoke wheels
I've received so many reactions to my request that I better send a general
answer.
The wheels were tested on a balancing machine with the correct taper on the
wheel's inside but with a flat 'washer' on the outside.
To avoid any misalignment a steel adapter piece is being machined with an
inner taper similar to the knock off spinner and as soon as that's ready the
wheels will be checked again - but I don't have much hope matters will improve
significantly.
Wheel balancing on the vehicle is not done any more in this country -
electronic balancing is far more accurate.
The tyres are perfectly round, and so are the wheels - there is no 'vertical
throw', only sideways. Sorry if that wasn't clear from my first message (If
you all could read Dutch I wouldn't have a language problem!)
Cannot test the wheels on my car yet - I hope to have the assembly of the car
finished in 1.5 or 2 years' time. Why I did the wheels at such an early stage?
Because I have a temporary job at a car tyre centre exchanging my knowledge
against 5 Michelins and the job will be finished soon!
I agree I should have tested the wheels before I had the tyres fitted - but
who expects problems when the wheels are reconditioned by maybe the best
reputed company in this country?
I'm of course going back to this guy, but before doing so I wanted to know
what was generally considered as an acceptable 'wobble' with this type of
wheels. Figures given vary between 1/64 and 3/16, (or for Continentals between
0.4 and 4.8 mm).
About costs: I paid 315 Euro (and you may say 1 US dollar equals 1 Euro) for
renewing 122 spokes on 5 wheels, taking out the dents and so on. Later I paid
275 Euro for shotblasting, powdercoating and varnishing the same 5 wheels.
A-H Spares Ltd, in my view the cheapest parts supplier in Europe, sells 72
spoke 5.1/2" painted wheels for about 170 Euro, so I haven't done too badly
up till now, albeit that I cannot use my wheels at present!
Thanks to all of you who shared my misery and gave advice, and I'll let you
know how the story ends.
Jack
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 14:55:08 -0800
Subject: Color of rear brake drums.
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 16:50:37 -0700
Subject: Not Healey but Car Fun!
I am off at 6 AM tomorrow to pick up my new Mini Cooper S in Salt Lake at 10
AM!!
Looks like clear skies and clear back raods for the way home!
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Cooper S
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 15:50:50 -0800
Subject: RE: Color of rear brake drums.
I used silver paint from OSH, as recommended by the guy who rebuilt my wire
wheels. He said this paint is a good match for the original. I can check
tonight and get the paint number off the can if you want it.
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Fine [mailto:ronfineesq@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 2:55 PM
To: healeys
Subject: Color of rear brake drums.
OK, another simple question for the list. What color should the rear
brake drums 61BN7 with wire wheels be painted? I have seen black and
silver. My are currently black but I have them off and could paint them
if silver is the more correct color.
Thanks,
Ron
BN7
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 19:16:04 EST
Subject: refurbish plastic
Price
60BT7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:04:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Color of rear brake drums.
I used silver wire wheel paint from Eastwood for both. As far as I know,
it's very close to the original color of both the WW's and drums. If not, I
doubt anyone would notice.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Fine" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 5:55 PM
Subject: Color of rear brake drums.
> OK, another simple question for the list. What color should the rear
> brake drums 61BN7 with wire wheels be painted? I have seen black and
> silver. My are currently black but I have them off and could paint them
> if silver is the more correct color.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> BN7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:20:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Not Healey but Car Fun!
Now you'll have a neat little trailor to pull behind your Healey.
Mark
: Not Healey but Car Fun!
> Well... I had to send this note... even though not healey related ..
>
> I am off at 6 AM tomorrow to pick up my new Mini Cooper S in Salt Lake at
10
> AM!!
>
> Looks like clear skies and clear back raods for the way home!
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110
> 03 Mini Cooper S
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:53:34 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 21:52:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Color of rear brake drums.
"Golding, Frank" wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I used silver paint from OSH, as recommended by the guy who rebuilt my wire
> wheels. He said this paint is a good match for the original. I can check
> tonight and get the paint number off the can if you want it.
>
> Frank
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:22:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Seat belt mountin styles
Other than ability to quickly remove the spring clip
attachment style, are there any other issues or
opinions? I couldn't find the answer in the
archives..
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
60 BT7 (never had seat belts)
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:28:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Seat belt mounts
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 01:08:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Seat belt mountin styles
First.... if you are going to install seatbelts, I'd
HIGHLY suggest installing three point belts (i.e. with
shoulder strap). In many cases having a lap belt only
may be more dangerous than no seat belt at all, as
this set up can cause massive head injuries when your
face smacks the windshield or the steering wheel, the
centripital forces of your upper body pivoting around
your firmly anchored arse in the seat can be extreme!!
Regarding the mount on the floor, the eyebolt and clip
can get in the way a bit when belting up, but it is
much easier to mount and dismount than a direct bolt
to the floor. In addition, there isn't enough space
for a direct bolt to the floor if you do it similar to
the factory... which was to put eyebolts on the floor.
You see, if you bolt to the floor, you don't have
enough space between the outrigger and the seat frame
to bolt to the floor... you have to use an eye
bolt.... you can then bolt to the eye bolt (a pain in
the arse) or you can just clip in belts... which is
MUCH easier.
Hope that helps...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> I understand there are common seat belt mounting
> styles:
> 1) Flat plate bolted to surface.
> 2) Spring clip attached to eyebolt.
>
> Other than ability to quickly remove the spring clip
> attachment style, are there any other issues or
> opinions? I couldn't find the answer in the
> archives..
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> 60 BT7 (never had seat belts)
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:55:14 -0500
Subject: Re: hardtop
Good luck,
John
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:03:26 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop
<< I got it from Bolton >>
If you want the right parts that fit contact Bill <tricarb@aol.com>.
Don
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:32:20 -0600
Subject: gearbox and laygear questions
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 03:32:16 +1100
Subject: RE: gearbox and laygear questions
That is and easy one ... The answers are .. Sort of and yes.
The 3649 laygear is longer that the 3728 therefore both types will fit
into the 3649 case but only the 3728 will fit in the 3728 case. If you
use a 3649 case for a 3728 you will have to make up special spacer(s) to
position the laygear correctly relative to the other gears.
If you set the 2 laygears next to each other you will notice that the
teeth slope in opposite directions. Makes it easy to select the correct
gears for each laygear IF you are sure that you have not got gears from
other boxes in the mix.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: 21-Mar-03 2:32 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: gearbox and laygear questions
Fellow Healey Addicts,
I'm about to start rebuilding a few gearboxes and have some pertinent
questions.
My buddy Karl had a few sideshift boxes for his BT-7 and I have a
centershift
for my BJ-7. We have four laygears between us and not one is good. I
disassembled two gearboxes a sideshift and a centershift which were both
complete. They both contained #3649 laygears. The other two laygears
are
#3728. and come with a bunch of misc. gears and bits that I don't even
know
where associated with the $3728 laygears to begin with.
My questions are, do #3649 and #3728 laygears fit inside all of the
casings?
Do these laygears have to be matched with specific gears, (i.e.
1,2,3,4)?
We are planning to send one pair of laygears off to AH Spares as cores
for
reman. laygears, thus we need to know which laygears to send and which
casting
to ask for. As always, thanks in advance!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:44:26 -0700
Subject: Body Fit Questions
I'm having a horrible time adjusting for proper gaps between the doors and
fenders. It's as though the front fenders are too far back and the rear
fenders are too far forward. The gaps aren't perfectly even, either. Their a
bit wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, etc. By messing with the hinges,
the door can be adjusted up-and-down and in-and-out, but not
forward-and-backward. Is there anyway to do that? Do I assume the doors are
proper and adjust the fenders for good gaps? What is the best way to adjust
the fenders? Is it a hammer and dolly process, or do I drill new holes in the
frame?
I bought this car in pieces, so I can't vouch that anything ever fit properly.
On last note for Rick Chrysler...your comments on the rocker panels where a big
help...I was about to buy another pair. Now, I'll just make the changes you
suggested to Rick Neves.
Thanks in advance!
Ken Ballard
BN7 Tri-Carb
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 12:00:57 EST
Subject: Re: gearbox and laygear questions
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 12:27:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Silly Question !
Other silly question: what is the correct distance from the inner
sill to the inner frame rail?
I have 12 7/8".
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:16:16 -0800
Subject: Re: refurbish plastic
It was probably me, although I am sure that others have done similar
refurbishing to the original Perspex rear hard-top window and sidescreen
windows. I did both when my tri-carb BT7 was done about 7 - 8 years ago -
it worked well - enough to get a gold award in concours judging (although
the hard-top was not seen or judged).
Let me know what you are working on and what stage you are at, and I'll do
my best to help - tell you what worked for me.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 4:16 PM
Subject: refurbish plastic
Someone on the list refurbished a hardtop rear window or side curtains I
forget which.
They said it turned out very much improved. Could the person let me know how
they did it? Other suggestions are appreciated.
Price
60BT7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 05:54:01 +1100
Subject: RE: Silly Question !
Not silly questions, unless of course you have already welded the inner
sills into position and didn't take care to ensure that you have them
correct!!
The important dimensions are on the diagram in the "R" section of your
WS manual.
The outside of the inner sills at the front at the front outriggers
should be a maximum of 48 3/4" apart and at the back of the rear
outriggers 51 1/2" apart. An 1/8th of an inch here makes a BIG
difference.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alain Giguhre
Sent: 21-Mar-03 4:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Silly Question !
Silly question#1 : how wide should the door sills be?
My replacement sillpanels (inner & outer), when welded together are 7/8"
wide.
Other silly question: what is the correct distance from the inner
sill to the inner frame rail?
I have 12 7/8".
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 17:16:22 -0500
Subject: RE: RE: Silly Question !
Other silly question: what is the correct distance from the inner
sill to the inner frame rail?
I have 12 7/8".
Michael Salter replies:
Hi Alain,
Not silly questions, unless of course you have already welded the inner
sills into position and didn't take care to ensure that you have them
correct!!
- Nope. Everything is tacked or clamped.
The important dimensions are on the diagram in the "R" section of your
WS manual.
-I know that document by heart, but I don't trust it entirely. We
measured the actual chassis, the new chassis (SC Parts chassis,
supposeddly made in England) with very accurate chassis gauges and a
good old tape measure. We now have a pile of measurements for the
chassis and structure about an inch thick. We have major
discrepancies and we need these numbers that are not on the chart to
validate our work as we go. As Mike says 1/8" makes a big difference.
The outside of the inner sills at the front at the front outriggers
should be a maximum of 48 3/4" apart and at the back of the rear
outriggers 51 1/2" apart. An 1/8th of an inch here makes a BIG
difference.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Thanks for your help, Mike, but I still need these measurements. The
sill width and the distance (inner) from the rail to the inner sill.
Anyone have a Healey chassis and a tape measure? Thanks Mike.
Alain Giguere
BN7 bits
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 14:41:38 -0800
Subject: trunk rubber bumper size
Cheers, John
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 16:49:34 -0600
Subject: quote of the day, esp for us computer folks!!(Fri.humor,early)
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:19:26 -0800
Subject: Valve Cover Plates - Austin and Brass
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:24:11 -0500
Subject: 16th Annual Michiana Brits Car Show
For those of you who are continuing to drive your British cars after British
Car Week and are looking for something fun to do with other British car fans,
please stop by and visit the 16th Annual Michiana Brits British Car Show. This
years event takes place at beautiful Bendix Woods County Park, which is
located approximately 14 miles west of downtown South Bend, Indiana on Timothy
Road, just off of State Road 2.
We will have access to the famous Studebaker proving grounds racetrack where
we will be allowed to take some "controlled" laps around the track. Bosch
Corporation currently owns the facility, and is graciously permitting us to
use it on this fun-filled day. Other attractions include awards, vendors, two
food tickets with each registration, 200 acres of beautiful park grounds with
hiking trails and playground for the kids.
MG is the featured marque this year, and British motorcycles are welcome!
For more information and a printable registration form, please go to the web
site listed below.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/michianabrits.html
Thanks!
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:49:47 EST
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Plates - Austin and Brass
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:58:25 -0600
Subject: carb bushings???
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 20:31:37 -0600
Subject: Re: carb bushings???
"This should be interesting!?!?! Cheesehead STILL can't READ!!! LMAO !!"
Rick
PS: PLEASE don't "...shoot the messenger!"
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 22:36:54 EST
Subject: Re: carb bushings???
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $ 30.00 + S+H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 20:11:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: throttle rod finish
Thanks for opinions,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:26:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: throttle rod finish
the most attractive thing I've seen done are the
cadmium chemichal coats. It looks as if it should be
original... and helps with surface corrosion...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> I've read that the various throttle linkage rods
> were
> originally "unfinished". What do people during a
> restoration?:
> 1)Wipe 'em down and forget.
> 2)Paint.
> 3)Plate or chemically coat.
>
> Thanks for opinions,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness,
> live on your desktop!
> http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 22:56:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 00:27:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
Take my advise from someone who had a mechanic reverse
the cylinders by mistake while doing some work on my
BJ8... get the proper master cylinder! (FYI I wouldn't
of made this mistake if I was working on my car!!)
If you keep the current master cylinder (which is the
same as your clutch cylinder), the effect of adding a
servo will make your brakes feel VERY spongy... kind
like a cadillac or worse.....
Get the right cylinder and it will feel just
perfect...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> I'm planning to purchase a brake servo for my '60
> BT7
> project. Should I keep my orig master cyl or can I
> obtain benefit from the "servo sized" (larger dia)
> master cylinder? I'll be keeping my original
> calipers.
> Thanks for any advice,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
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From "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 09:26:20 -0000
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY CENTER
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 06:02:32 -0600
Subject: Re: carb bushings???
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> RANDY , WE use oversized shafts then all you have to do is ream out the
carb
> body and the linkage arms , we have them in stock Norman Nock
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 06:14:34 -0700
Subject: Car Transport
Hello, anyone got a line on transporting a MG 1100 plus a spare engine from
Albuquerque, NM to the Washington DC area? Car is ready
now...................Cheers Henry
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 07:50:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Not Healey but Car Fun!
The new Cooper S is a great car, great color combo ... Great expereince
with the dealer (no financial interest)....
Truly a rocket on a roller skate with go-kart handling! I can't wait to get
past the 1200 mile breakin and take her over the local twisty bits! (pine
creek pass then over Teton Pass and back through Alpine Wyo).....
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Cooper S
: Not Healey but Car Fun!
> Well... I had to send this note... even though not healey related ..
>
> I am off at 6 AM tomorrow to pick up my new Mini Cooper S in Salt Lake at
10
> AM!!
>
> Looks like clear skies and clear back raods for the way home!
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110
> 03 Mini Cooper S
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From "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 07:40:06 -0800
Subject: Windscreen question
My question is..are all windscreens for 3000 models the same as perhaps I am
getting a windscreen for a 100/6, BJ7 or BJ8 and not my particular model??
Appreciate your help and input.
Thanks...Stan
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:16:53 EST
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:26:14 EST
Subject: Re: Windscreen question
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:27:49 EST
Subject: Re: throttle rod finish
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 12:00:39 EST
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 13:09:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Windscreen question
It may be too late but It's usually best to have the installer obtain the
windscreen. It may cost you a little more (he will want full retail or even
a premium) but if there is a problem, you might avoid the "he said, she
said" scenario.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 10:40 AM
Subject: Windscreen question
> I just received a new windscreen for my 62 3000 BT7 from and had it
professionally (?) installed or so I thought. I wasn't too thrilled with
the result as upon inspection, silicone was used to fill some gaps at the
top and bottom of the right side where the horizontal and vertical chrome
frame pieces meet but, as it was slight, I thought I could live with it.
Four days or so later I was really shocked to see an approximate 6 inch long
crack running diagonally from the top right corner to the center of the
glass. After a week or so, two other stress cracks appeared in the same
area. By the way I had also had all the frame pieces re-chromed and had
ordered new brackets, screws, glazing etc. An immediate call to the
installer was placed forthwith and his explanation was that either the glass
or the frame was not true as he had a tough time getting it to fit and had
to apply significant pressure to put the four screws through the vertical
piece into the post on the right sid!
> e. He said to check with my windscreen supplier. I did and there were no
other complaints received and the fault lay with the installer. My
suspicion is that it wasn't installed correctly however because he did not
supply the windscreen, I have no recourse with him by way of a warranty so
as usual the consumer gets screwed during the "he said..she said" run
around. So...I have a new one on order and will check around to find a
recommended installer of windscreens on Healeys which I should have done in
the first place. Thought I was getting too old to learn any more of life's
hard lessons.
>
> My question is..are all windscreens for 3000 models the same as perhaps I
am getting a windscreen for a 100/6, BJ7 or BJ8 and not my particular
model?? Appreciate your help and input.
>
> Thanks...Stan
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 10:13:24 -0800
Subject: RE: throttle rod finish
I was planning to plate my throttle rods with zinc. I have plated other old
parts with a zinc plating kit purchased from Eastwood, and the results have
been good so far. The main thing is to get all the old rust and paint off
via a wire wheel or media blasting. Yet Dave's lead tinning sounds like a
great option, I wouldn't have thought of this.
Frank
1960 BN7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 19:05:52 -0000
Subject: BN1 Rear axles noises
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 12:42:38 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 Rear axles noises
BrianM
'55 100 Lemans
'03 Mini Cooper-S
At 07:05 PM 3/21/2003 +0000, Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
>I need help from the list. Last year I have completed a total rebuild of my
>1955 BN1. Everything works perfectly on my car with the exeption of a strange
>noise coming from the right side of the rear axle, with irregular pavement I
>can listen a very clear noc-noc noise and I can not iduntify it's origin. Any
>ideas?
>Thanks
>Mnauel Sanchez
>55BN1
>58 Frog
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: dos_gusanos
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 17:03:08 EST
Subject: Back from the UK
Cheers,
Rick
San Diego
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 17:16:02 -0500
Subject: Body Fit Questions
> There have been some excellent body fit questions recently on the
list...sounds like several of us are in similar points in our restorations.
>
> I'm having a horrible time adjusting for proper gaps between the doors and
fenders. It's as though the front fenders are too far back and the rear
fenders are too far forward. The gaps aren't perfectly even, either. Their
a bit wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, etc. By messing with the
hinges, the door can be adjusted up-and-down and in-and-out, but not
forward-and-backward. Is there anyway to do that?
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 17:28:40 -0600
Subject: Re: throttle rod finish
Thanks, Mark
> I just atried somthing new on my car by tinning the rods with solder
before
> installing and the look pretty good.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 18:48:13 EST
Subject: Re: throttle rod finish
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 15:52:53 -0800
Subject: RE: Windscreen question
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:36:00 -0500
Subject: Steering Wheel
Anyone have a good source for this or experience with the Moto Lita ones from
Moss?
Thanks
Fred "63 BJ7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 19:51:41 -0600
Subject: Old Healey Marque and Chatter mags in Dallas, TX
Brian Collins
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 22:20:36 EST
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $ 30.00 + S+H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:34:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
There are about a zillion opinions on which wheel to use & where to get
it. Derrington style, slotted vs drilled spokes etc. You will probably
get several replies.
If you go to this link & do a search for "steering wheel" & set the "max
files returned" to 500, you will get more info than you ever wanted.
Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
Note; the Moss wheel is not one of the more correct designs. I
personally think that the wheel from VB is more correct but it costs
more. What ever wheel you get, you will also need the adapter hub for
your particular car.
Dave Russell
Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am looking for a 15" wood rim adjustable steering wheel for my "63 BJ7.
>
> Anyone have a good source for this or experience with the Moto Lita ones from
> Moss?
>
> Thanks
>
> Fred "63 BJ7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 22:45:00 EST
Subject: Re: throttle rod finish
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 00:03:02 -0500
Subject: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
I am working from a Bentley's guide which has a strange diagram that shows
that each intake and exhaust valve is open for 230 degrees.
They say:
the Intake opens 5 deg before TDC (I assume this is the 2nd TDC) and closes 45
degrees after Bottom Dead Center (into the compression stroke) - 230 degrees
in total
the Exhaust opens 45 deg before BDC (in the power stroke) and closes 10
degrees after TDC (into the intake stroke). - 230 degrees in total
My valves are moving later than this, which leads me to believe my timing
chain was incorrectly installed. But my valves aren't open 230 deg each.
Given my measurements aren't exact, but it appears my intake is open 295 deg
and my exhaust is open 180 deg.
It is late and I will double check again tomorrow, but, what should the specs
be on a BJ8 cam? Do the intake and exhaust valves have different periods of
time for their opening?
what a doozie.
Ryan
BJ7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 00:37:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Windscreen question
"Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca> wrote:
>I just received a new windscreen for my 62 3000 BT7 from and had it
>professionally (?) installed or so I thought. I wasn't too thrilled with the
>result as upon inspection, silicone was used to fill some gaps at the top and
>bottom of the right side where the horizontal and vertical chrome frame pieces
>meet but, as it was slight, I thought I could live with it. Four days or so
>later I was really shocked to see an approximate 6 inch long crack running
>diagonally from the top right corner to the center of the glass. After a week
>or so, two other stress cracks appeared in the same area. By the way I had
>also had all the frame pieces re-chromed and had ordered new brackets, screws,
>glazing etc. An immediate call to the installer was placed forthwith and his
>explanation was that either the glass or the frame was not true as he had a
>tough time getting it to fit and had to apply significant pressure to put the
>four screws through the vertical piece into the post on the right sid!>e. He
>said to check with my windscreen supplier. I did and there were no other
>complaints received and the fault lay with the installer. My suspicion is
>that it wasn't installed correctly however because he did not supply the
>windscreen, I have no recourse with him by way of a warranty so as usual the
>consumer gets screwed during the "he said..she said" run around. So...I have
>a new one on order and will check around to find a recommended installer of
>windscreens on Healeys which I should have done in the first place. Thought I
>was getting too old to learn any more of life's hard lessons.>>My question
>is..are all windscreens for 3000 models the same as perhaps I am getting a
>windscreen for a 100/6, BJ7 or BJ8 and not my particular model?? Appreciate
>your help and input.>>Thanks...Stan
__________________________________________________________________Try AOL and
get 1045 hours FREE for 45 days!http://free.aol.com/tryaolfree/index.adp?375380
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 00:52:17 EST
Subject: Re: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
The BJ8 cam, is I believe, the old "factory racing" cam, part AEC865; valve
timing is 16-56 / 51-21. It was the "hottest" cam provided in standard
production Healeys (with possible exception of the 100S). Duration, for both
intake and exhaust is 252 degrees. I do not know whether lift is increased
over "stock", or not. I would think you would also want to fit a BJ8
distributor, or at least the advance mechanism from same. Also, it was meant
to be used with bigger carbs - I'm planning to fit one to my tri-carb, and
would be interested in further input form the list.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 07:38:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
As someonelse already explained the duration for both intake and
exhaust should be 252 degrees.
Inlet opens 16 degrees BTDC, closes 56 degrees ABDC. Exhaust opens 51
degrees BBDC and closes 21 degrees ATDC.
One important thing, when measuring the duration with a degree wheel is
that the valve clearance must be taken into consideration. That is, do
not start to count the degrees before the rocker has moved 0.012 on the
measuring dial and stop counting when it is back at 0.012. If you start
counting at the first slight movement and stop at the very end you will
end up with a much greater value for the duration. Possibly close to
what you have got for the inlet.
Your inlet duration may be correct but your exhaust duration most
definitely is way too short.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:18:15 -0000
Subject: Re: Master Cyl for Servo Cars
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 09:07:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
Although cams with different opening periods for exhaust and inlet are
around (I'm working on one for my 100S race engine), they are relatively
unusual. These cams are called "asymmetric". There are also "scatter"
cams where individual lobes have different profiles... also fairly rare.
If your cam has that much difference between the intake and exhaust
lobes this would be quite apparent when you look closely at the cam.
If the cam looked and measured OK before installation I would recommend
measuring another one or two pairs of lobes for timing before you start
ripping it apart.
There is a possibility that your measuring technique is the problem but
considering the added evidence of your compression problem you may be on
to something.
Good luck. Remember correct diagnosis is 90% of the repair...
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: 22-Mar-03 12:03 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
I had my BJ7 engine rebuilt with a re-ground cam shaft to BJ8 standards.
Since
I'm trying to figure out why I have compression problems, I've done some
tracking of when the valves open and close.
I am working from a Bentley's guide which has a strange diagram that
shows
that each intake and exhaust valve is open for 230 degrees.
They say:
the Intake opens 5 deg before TDC (I assume this is the 2nd TDC) and
closes 45
degrees after Bottom Dead Center (into the compression stroke) - 230
degrees
in total
the Exhaust opens 45 deg before BDC (in the power stroke) and closes 10
degrees after TDC (into the intake stroke). - 230 degrees in total
My valves are moving later than this, which leads me to believe my
timing
chain was incorrectly installed. But my valves aren't open 230 deg
each.
Given my measurements aren't exact, but it appears my intake is open 295
deg
and my exhaust is open 180 deg.
It is late and I will double check again tomorrow, but, what should the
specs
be on a BJ8 cam? Do the intake and exhaust valves have different periods
of
time for their opening?
what a doozie.
Ryan
BJ7
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 09:51:41 EST
Subject: Re: trunk rubber bumper size
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 06:32:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 11:45:18 -0600
Subject: Healey marque and chatter mags.
Thanks to all who responded.
Brian Collins
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 12:43:49 -0500
Subject: Re:Absolutely The Last Ammeter!!
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 13:51:35 EST
Subject: Workshop manual
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 11:08:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
Best Regards,
Greg
67 BJ8 w/268 degree Iskenderian cam
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I had my BJ7 engine rebuilt with a re-ground cam shaft to BJ8
> standards. Since
> I'm trying to figure out why I have compression problems, I've done some
> tracking of when the valves open and close.
>
> I am working from a Bentley's guide which has a strange diagram that shows
> that each intake and exhaust valve is open for 230 degrees.
>
> They say:
> the Intake opens 5 deg before TDC (I assume this is the 2nd TDC)
> and closes 45
> degrees after Bottom Dead Center (into the compression stroke) -
> 230 degrees
> in total
>
> the Exhaust opens 45 deg before BDC (in the power stroke) and closes 10
> degrees after TDC (into the intake stroke). - 230 degrees in total
>
> My valves are moving later than this, which leads me to believe my timing
> chain was incorrectly installed. But my valves aren't open 230 deg each.
> Given my measurements aren't exact, but it appears my intake is
> open 295 deg
> and my exhaust is open 180 deg.
>
> It is late and I will double check again tomorrow, but, what
> should the specs
> be on a BJ8 cam? Do the intake and exhaust valves have different
> periods of
> time for their opening?
>
> what a doozie.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 13:21:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Workshop manual
Bill Lawrence
Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
> List,
> I have been reading about the measurements that have been written in
> these shop manuals. Does someone have an exact name and where I can get one
> of these manuals. I am about to start replacing some frame parts and I think
> I should have one of these books for reference.
> Thanks,
> Seth
> 1960 BT7
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 16:49:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Absolutely The Last Ammeter!!
Happy Healeying,
Doug
' 56 BN2
> Turned over the proverbial leaf and there was one more Smiths +/- 30
> ammeter. Is in excellent overall original condition with later 6
> cylinder
> bezel. If interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
> '56 BN2
>
> ________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 18:21:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Workshop manual
ps. mc or visa. checks or money orders -- u.s. funds
pps. many other healey books available at discount prices.
Slvrbulit2@aol.com wrote:
>
> List,
> I have been reading about the measurements that have been written in
> these shop manuals. Does someone have an exact name and where I can get one
> of these manuals. I am about to start replacing some frame parts and I think
> I should have one of these books for reference.
> Thanks,
> Seth
> 1960 BT7
>
> /
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 20:24:29 EST
Subject: Re: Valve Timing - what are specs for BJ8?
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $ 30.00 + S .H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 18:27:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Absolutely The Last Ammeter!!
I Just finished installing the first of your "Last Ammeters" in the BN1.
I got a mounting bracket from Norman and placed it on the parcel shelf
using the screws that hold the air control knob. It works perfectly and
looks great. It can be seen easily right under the dash arch.
I ran the wires up through the firewall hole grommet with the oil
pressure
line to the regulator. (thanks Norman for the additional advise) I
attached the bulb wire to the light terminal on the back of the fuel
gauge. While I was up there I installed an inline fuse for the
headlight circut. A fifteen minute job that took about 4 hours. (had to
tidy up all the wires and nasty old harness)
Did you know an upside-down plastic milk crate is the perfect height
for your butt while you are lying in the passenger wheel well?
Thanks for your "last Ammeter".
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
Douglas W Flagg wrote:
>
> Turned over the proverbial leaf and there was one more Smiths +/- 30
> ammeter.*
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 00:20:23 -0500
Subject: Torque curve
Anyone out there tell me where I can get a graph of the torque curve for the
early 3000?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 08:11:50 EST
Subject: Springthing - Georgetown
May 16-18 Hosted by the Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Join the Bluegrass Club this year as our successful annual event moves to
another great location, Georgetown, Kentucky.
Home base this year is a brand new Best Western located conveniently near the
intersection of I-64 and I-75. Room rates are only $59*. (* until April 16)
Join us for the crazy antics of Bluegrass minds at the Funkhana and Welcome
Festivities. Events include a pleasurable Road Rally. Our backroads offer
beautiful horse farms, Irish fieldstone fences, the meandering creeks and the
competitive spirits of Healey Marque drivers. Saturday enter the Popularity
Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys. Strolling among the cars, what
better way to spend a Saturday Afternoon.
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Awards, hilarious Funkhana are all on
the weekend agenda. Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Bar-B-Que and
special Auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on
the agenda. Come join with your Healey friends and make new ones!
Register Today!
Download registration form attached or visit the Springthing web site at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>
www.springthing.info</A> for more information and a downloadable form.
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
<A HREF="http://www.bluegrassclub.com";> </A>w<A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>ww.springthing.info</A>
<A HREF="http://www.bluegrassclub.com";>www.bluegrassclub.com</A>
<A HREF="mailto:information@bluegrassclub.com";>information@bluegrassclub.com</A>
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of springthing 2003 flyer bw.pdf]
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 05:36:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Torque curve
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:32:37 -0500
Subject: Ammeters and door pillar piping
The simulations work out very nicely with a zero-center microammeter
that
I'm using in the test circuit. I plan on using a MIL-temp op-amp (-55
degrees F to +125 degrees F) so that the Hall sensor and op-amp can be
installed under the bonnet.
If successful, at the very least I will make my circuit details
available
to the list. I may also try to kit the components if I can get a successful
design going; one that's stable over temperature extremes and proves
reliable in the car.
My first priority is getting the "Blue Mainie" on the road for a spring
drive, then installing new door pillar piping! Any hints or suggestions
about the piping would be appreciated. I have two rolls of piping from Moss.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 11:33:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Ammeters and door pillar piping
Just MHOs, Mark
> Speaking of ammeters, for any of you who are electronikers, I have
received
> samples of the Hall effect sensors that I mentioned a few weeks ago. I
have
> also successfully simulated, using a CAD tool, an op-amp
voltage-to-current
> converter. My simulations are all running under windows-hosted Electronics
> Workbench Multi-Sim.
>
> The simulations work out very nicely with a zero-center microammeter that
> I'm using in the test circuit. I plan on using a MIL-temp op-amp (-55
> degrees F to +125 degrees F) so that the Hall sensor and op-amp can be
> installed under the bonnet.
>
> If successful, at the very least I will make my circuit details available
> to the list. I may also try to kit the components if I can get a
successful
> design going; one that's stable over temperature extremes and proves
> reliable in the car.
>
> My first priority is getting the "Blue Mainie" on the road for a spring
> drive, then installing new door pillar piping! Any hints or suggestions
> about the piping would be appreciated. I have two rolls of piping from
Moss.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> AI2Q .-.-.
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 08:57:08 -0800
Subject: SB 708 Senate Bill - semi Healey
He writes in part on March 20, 2003:
"SB708...has not been heard in a policy committee, but should it come before
me, I will oppose it.
I do not support this bill because vehicles that would be affected by it
have a relatively minimal impact on vehicle emissions and air quality. They
constitute a small portion of the vehicle fleet and many are considered
'classic cars' by their owners and others. They are generally
well-maintained and infrequently operated. Other older vehicles not
considered classic are relatively few in number and are driven fewer miles
than the average for vehicles in the state. Requiring these vehicles to
pass smog check would be a large burden on their owners with a relatively
small benefit to the air quality of the state."
Just FYI
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 12:24:06 -0500
Subject: FW: Ammeters and door pillar piping
I'm an advocate of the KISS approach too, but installing an ammeter means
routing high-current leads into and out of the cockpit. We discussed this
earlier in this forum.
My circuit would create the equivalent of an ammeter without the need for
that; only low-level (low voltage and low current) signals would come into
the cockpit. Much, much safer!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
PS - Please send along those e-pics! Many thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 12:34 PM
To: Alex; Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Ammeters and door pillar piping
Alex,
I'm sure there is an English translation for what your talking about but
that probably is just as difficult to understand. I am an electronics
tech. and am wondering why this type of high tech instrumentation is
necessary for our antiquated automobiles. I'm sure there's a technology web
sight that would woo and coo over what your trying to present here but I
think most of us still believe in the KISS system, hence the reason we own
50s and 60s automobiles.
Now the door pillar piping request is a tad more down to earth. I'd be
happy to send you an e-pic of my old pillar with piping attached if you'd
like.
Just MHOs, Mark
> Speaking of ammeters, for any of you who are electronikers, I have
received
> samples of the Hall effect sensors that I mentioned a few weeks ago. I
have
> also successfully simulated, using a CAD tool, an op-amp
voltage-to-current
> converter. My simulations are all running under windows-hosted Electronics
> Workbench Multi-Sim.
>
> The simulations work out very nicely with a zero-center microammeter that
> I'm using in the test circuit. I plan on using a MIL-temp op-amp (-55
> degrees F to +125 degrees F) so that the Hall sensor and op-amp can be
> installed under the bonnet.
>
> If successful, at the very least I will make my circuit details available
> to the list. I may also try to kit the components if I can get a
successful
> design going; one that's stable over temperature extremes and proves
> reliable in the car.
>
> My first priority is getting the "Blue Mainie" on the road for a spring
> drive, then installing new door pillar piping! Any hints or suggestions
> about the piping would be appreciated. I have two rolls of piping from
Moss.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> AI2Q .-.-.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 16:24:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Ammeters and door pillar piping
Please look over the archives for previous comments about high-current
routing, reliability, safety, etc. No need to reiterate all that again!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 12:24 PM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: FW: Ammeters and door pillar piping
Hi Mark:
I'm an advocate of the KISS approach too, but installing an ammeter means
routing high-current leads into and out of the cockpit.................
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 22:06:37 +0000
Subject: Found Healeys?
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 17:25:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Ammeters and door pillar piping (getting off subject)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: 23-Mar-03 4:25 PM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Ammeters and door pillar piping
It's interesting to see how many engineers and electronics-oriented
folks
there are on this list! I got three detailed e-mails as a result of my
posting, two from engineering students and one from an engineer.
Please look over the archives for previous comments about high-current
routing, reliability, safety, etc. No need to reiterate all that again!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:48:55 EST
Subject: Healey pictures from heritage museum
http://members.aol.com/healeypics/heritage/
The car has been used recently and is in a very british state of race driving
and not babied in the least. Still sports original quality trim pieces,
though the seats are newish style, and a roll cage is mounted in the cockpit.
Still visible on the shroud are holes for fog light wiring and the tabs to
mount the headlight shields. The bonnet has two extra keyed locks on the top
sides. The rear wings are stretched out a bit. The underside is sprayed black.
More pics later.
Rick
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 19:52:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Torque curve
Rick posted the torque curve on the internet here:
http://members.aol.com/healeypics/heritage/torquecurves.gif
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Anyone out there tell me where I can get a graph of
> the torque curve for the
> early 3000?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:24:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Torque curve
Thank you for the data. But isn't this horsepower, not torque?
Keith Pennell
> http://members.aol.com/healeypics/heritage/torquecurves.gif
>
> In a message dated 3/22/03 21:51:59, pennell@whro.net writes:
>
> << Listers,
>
> Anyone out there tell me where I can get a graph of the torque curve for
the
> early 3000?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell >>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:49:52 EST
Subject: Fwd: Say No To France
>
>
>
>
> Join the "Boycott France" Campaign.
> Please review this list of major French companies that
> Americans should boycott.
> Millions of Americans are joining the Boycott France
> campaign led by NewsMax.com
> Please forward this email to as many friends and
> family as possible.
> If everyone who gets this list from NewsMax would send it to
> just two friends, within 10 days more than 100 million people
> will be contacted!
> Again, please review the email below, print it out, copy it,
> and share it with your friends and family.
> NewsMax.com, America's news page, is taking the lead. NewsMax
> unabashedly stands for America and American values.
> Check out NewsMax's recent ad urging a boycott and join our
> campaign, click here now:
> <A HREF="http://y.tsdo1.com/t.cgi?j=188RPVIhIVQ202446244bALcBeNz186.html";>
>http://www.newsmaxstore.com/a/france150</A>
> NewsMax.com is leading the Boycott France campaign because
> American lives and security is at stake.
> France has every right to disagree with America. But
> France has moved from simple dissent to active hostility
> toward America.
> French President Chirac warned East European nations that
> if they side with America, France will oppose their
> membership in the European Union.
> This week, William Safire reported in the New York Times
> that France has been secretly helping to arm Iraq -- and
> has been helping Iraq build long range missiles. These
> same missiles may soon be used against American soldiers.
> Just as France is exercising its right to disagree,
> Americans can exercise their right to boycott -- and avoid
> helping companies and countries that do no stand with America.
> French Products and Companies to Boycott
> The following companies are subject to boycott:
> * Air France. Air Liquide. Airbus. Alcatel. Allegra (allergy
> medication). Aqualung (including: Spirotechnique, Technisub,
> US Divers, and SeaQuest). AXA Advisors
> * Bank of the West (owned by BNP Paribas). Beneteau (boats).
> BF Goodrich (owned by Michelin). BIC (razors, pens and lighters).
> Biotherm (cosmetics). Bollinger (champagne).
> * Car & Driver Magazine. Chanel. Chivas Regal (scotch).
> Christian Dior. Club Med (vacations).
> * Dannon (yogurt and dairy foods). Dom Perignon.
> Durand Crystal
> * Elle Magazine. Essilor Optical Products. Evian.
> * Givenchy. Glenlivet (scotch).
> * Hennessy. Houghton Mifflin (books). Jacobs Creek (owned by
> Pernod Ricard since 1989). Jameson (whiskey).
> Jerry Springer (talk show)
> * Krups (coffee and cappuccino makers).
> * Lancome. Le Creuset (cookware). L'Oreal (health and beauty
> products). Louis Vuitton.
> * Martel Cognac. Maybelline. Michelin (tires and auto parts). Mikasa
> (crystal
> and glass). Moet (champagne). Motel 6. Motown Records. MP3.com.
> * Peugeot (automobiles). ProScan (owned by Thomson Electronics,
> France). Publicis Group (including Saatchi & Saatchi
> Advertising). Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent).
> * RCA (televisions and electronics; owned by Thomson Electronics).
> Red Roof Inns (owned by Accor group in France).
> Renault (automobiles). Road & Track Magazine. Roquefort cheese
> (all Roquefort cheese is made in France). Rowenta (toasters,
> irons, coffee makers, etc.).
> * Sierra Software and Computer Games. Smart &
> Final. Sofitel (hotels, owned by Accor). Sparkletts (water,
> owned by Danone). Spencer Gifts.
> * Technicolor. TeFal (kitchenware). Total
> gas stations.
> * UbiSoft (computer games). Uniroyal. Universal Studios (music,
> movies and amusement parks; owned by Vivendi-Universal). USFilter.
> * Veritas Group. Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Vittel. Vivendi.
> * Wild Turkey (bourbon). Woman's Day Magazine.
> * Yoplait (The French company Sodiaal owns a 50 percent stake).
> * Zodiac Inflatable Boats.
> P.S.: Thanks to GOP lawmakers, cafeterias in the U.S. House
> of Representatives will today start offering "freedom fries"
> instead of you know what.
> Please email this to as many friends and family as you can.
> Send a message to France that will not be forgotten!
> Also, join NewsMax's Boycott France campaign. Check out our
> national ad campaign and help us inform
> America, click here now:
> <A HREF="http://y.tsdo1.com/t.cgi?j=188RPVIhIVQ202446244bALcBeNz186.html";>
>http://www.newsmaxstore.com/a/france150</A>
>
> Note:
> All third party products and services promoted in this email are offered
> exclusively by third party advertisers. The Timesavers Network makes no
> representations or warranties with respect to these offers and all
> claims for injury and damages related to such offers are the sole
> responsibility of the advertiser.
>
>
> -----------------------------------
> <A
>HREF="http://tsdu.com/cgi-bin/7.cgi?email=%0D%0Ahlydoc@aol.com";>http://tsdu.com/cgi-bin/7.cgi?email=hlydoc@aol.com</A>
>
>
> -----------------------------------
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To: hlydoc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 15:41:19 -0800
Reply-To: reply@timesaversforyou.com
From: Right Movement <patricia-202446244@tsd01.com>
Subject: Say No To France
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:17:10 -0600
Subject: Questions: using HS-6 instead of HS-4 for triple carb setup
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 01:01:11 EST
Subject: Re: Torque curve
<< Rick,
Thank you for the data. But isn't this horsepower, not torque?
Keith Pennell >>
Sure is HP not torque. I didn't even read it, other than to see which
engine...sorry. I just grabbed the graph referenced in another post.
Rick
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 22:53:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Questions: using HS-6 instead of HS-4 for triple carb setup
The big thing is to make sure the dashpot piston
weighs the same and has the same shape/configuration
as those in your HS6s (they come in many different
weights and shapes), that you have the same dashpot
spring as in the other carbs (there are many different
spring weights), and the same needle & jet diameters
(a million of these as well).
I cannot comment on the venturi chamber itself - these
need to be identical in shape also... if they are
different than your HS6 carbs, you are better off
finding an extra HS6 carb. If the venturi chamber of
the carb from your Austin 1800 is a different shape
inside, it'll never be in tune with the other carbs.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I'm in the middle of putting a triple set of HS-6
> carbs instead of the HS-4
> carbs on my BJ-7. I thought that I would gain more
> power with the larger (1
> 3/4) carb setup. Also, I like the looks of the tri
> carb setup,...nevermind
> that it is tougher to keep in tune and adjust. If I
> wanted something easier to
> keep in tune I'd buy one of those souless psuedo
> "new" sports cars out there
> and forget about it.
> Anyway, I only have two true HS-6 carbs. I do have
> a couple of extra 1 3/4 SU
> carbs that I pulled got at a junk yard when I was in
> the UK in the mid 80's. I
> do not know if they are considered HS-6 or not. The
> junkyard tag on them says
> Austin 1800, the carb tags say FXZ 1215 on one and
> FXZ1077 on the other. So,
> my question is, since these carbs look the same as
> my HS-6 1963 vintage SU
> carbs, except for a different throttle adjuster
> screw, a slightly different jet
> assembly, and a smog/vaccum take off pipe, shouldn't
> I be able to use one of
> these in as my third 1 3/4 carb? I plan on plugging
> the smog/vacuum pipe and
> rebuilding the carb and replacing the jet. I think
> that it sould flow the same
> as long as I have the same needles in all three
> carbs. Does this sound do-
> able? Any comments here would be greatly
> appreciated.
> thanks again,
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:41:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Say No To France
Boycotting those products that are manufactured in France by Frenchmen, the
sales proceeds from which go directly into France's coffers is OK. And
cancelling that vacation to France is OK. But - if 'French' products or
services manufactured, assembled, sold, and/or franchised in America by
Americans (or put your country in this space) are impacted, many of OUR
(your) citizens could be put out of business and/or work. Is that the
result we are looking for? I cite as examples from the list below: banks,
tires, Jerry Springer (oh! Please DO boycott that one), Motel 6, Red Roof
Inns, etc.
"Be careful what you wish for..........."
Len
> In a message dated 3/23/03 4:08:05 PM, patricia-202446244@tsd01.com
writes:
>
> > Join the "Boycott France" Campaign.
> > Please review this list of major French companies that
> > Americans should boycott.
> > Millions of Americans are joining the Boycott France
> > campaign led by NewsMax.com
> > Please forward this email to as many friends and
> > family as possible.
> > If everyone who gets this list from NewsMax would send it to
> > just two friends, within 10 days more than 100 million people
> > will be contacted!
> > Again, please review the email below, print it out, copy it,
> > and share it with your friends and family.
> > NewsMax.com, America's news page, is taking the lead. NewsMax
> > unabashedly stands for America and American values.
> > Check out NewsMax's recent ad urging a boycott and join our
> > campaign, click here now:
> > <A
HREF="http://y.tsdo1.com/t.cgi?j=188RPVIhIVQ202446244bALcBeNz186.html";>
http://www.newsmaxstore.com/a/france150</A>
> > NewsMax.com is leading the Boycott France campaign because
> > American lives and security is at stake.
> > France has every right to disagree with America. But
> > France has moved from simple dissent to active hostility
> > toward America.
> > French President Chirac warned East European nations that
> > if they side with America, France will oppose their
> > membership in the European Union.
> > This week, William Safire reported in the New York Times
> > that France has been secretly helping to arm Iraq -- and
> > has been helping Iraq build long range missiles. These
> > same missiles may soon be used against American soldiers.
> > Just as France is exercising its right to disagree,
> > Americans can exercise their right to boycott -- and avoid
> > helping companies and countries that do no stand with America.
> > French Products and Companies to Boycott
> > The following companies are subject to boycott:
> > * Air France. Air Liquide. Airbus. Alcatel. Allegra (allergy
> > medication). Aqualung (including: Spirotechnique, Technisub,
> > US Divers, and SeaQuest). AXA Advisors
> > * Bank of the West (owned by BNP Paribas). Beneteau (boats).
> > BF Goodrich (owned by Michelin). BIC (razors, pens and lighters).
> > Biotherm (cosmetics). Bollinger (champagne).
> > * Car & Driver Magazine. Chanel. Chivas Regal (scotch).
> > Christian Dior. Club Med (vacations).
> > * Dannon (yogurt and dairy foods). Dom Perignon.
> > Durand Crystal
> > * Elle Magazine. Essilor Optical Products. Evian.
> > * Givenchy. Glenlivet (scotch).
> > * Hennessy. Houghton Mifflin (books). Jacobs Creek (owned by
> > Pernod Ricard since 1989). Jameson (whiskey).
> > Jerry Springer (talk show)
> > * Krups (coffee and cappuccino makers).
> > * Lancome. Le Creuset (cookware). L'Oreal (health and beauty
> > products). Louis Vuitton.
> > * Martel Cognac. Maybelline. Michelin (tires and auto parts). Mikasa
> > (crystal
> > and glass). Moet (champagne). Motel 6. Motown Records. MP3.com.
> > * Peugeot (automobiles). ProScan (owned by Thomson Electronics,
> > France). Publicis Group (including Saatchi & Saatchi
> > Advertising). Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent).
> > * RCA (televisions and electronics; owned by Thomson Electronics).
> > Red Roof Inns (owned by Accor group in France).
> > Renault (automobiles). Road & Track Magazine. Roquefort cheese
> > (all Roquefort cheese is made in France). Rowenta (toasters,
> > irons, coffee makers, etc.).
> > * Sierra Software and Computer Games. Smart &
> > Final. Sofitel (hotels, owned by Accor). Sparkletts (water,
> > owned by Danone). Spencer Gifts.
> > * Technicolor. TeFal (kitchenware). Total
> > gas stations.
> > * UbiSoft (computer games). Uniroyal. Universal Studios (music,
> > movies and amusement parks; owned by Vivendi-Universal). USFilter.
> > * Veritas Group. Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Vittel. Vivendi.
> > * Wild Turkey (bourbon). Woman's Day Magazine.
> > * Yoplait (The French company Sodiaal owns a 50 percent stake).
> > * Zodiac Inflatable Boats.
> > P.S.: Thanks to GOP lawmakers, cafeterias in the U.S. House
> > of Representatives will today start offering "freedom fries"
> > instead of you know what.
> > Please email this to as many friends and family as you can.
> > Send a message to France that will not be forgotten!
> > Also, join NewsMax's Boycott France campaign. Check out our
> > national ad campaign and help us inform
> > America, click here now:
> > <A
HREF="http://y.tsdo1.com/t.cgi?j=188RPVIhIVQ202446244bALcBeNz186.html";>
http://www.newsmaxstore.com/a/france150</A>
> >
> > Note:
> > All third party products and services promoted in this email are offered
> > exclusively by third party advertisers. The Timesavers Network makes no
> > representations or warranties with respect to these offers and all
> > claims for injury and damages related to such offers are the sole
> > responsibility of the advertiser.
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------
> > <A
HREF="http://tsdu.com/cgi-bin/7.cgi?email=%0D%0Ahlydoc@aol.com";>http://tsdu.
com/cgi-bin/7.cgi?email=hlydoc@aol.com</A>
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------
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> To: hlydoc@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 15:41:19 -0800
> Reply-To: reply@timesaversforyou.com
> From: Right Movement <patricia-202446244@tsd01.com>
> Subject: Say No To France
> MIME-Version: 1.0
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 04:39:01 EST
Subject: Re: Questions: using HS-6 instead of HS-4 for triple carb setup
FZX1215 Morris 1800 manual (interesting rust trap) 1976-79, with CUD1129
needle, AUC1167 Piston Spring , LZX114 Jet.
Once you change all those springs etc for the right ones and your guess is as
good as mine as to which, you should have two identical carbs, assuming that
both are left or right handed. I know nothing about HS6s, except that I hope
they are easier to fiddle with in situ than HS4s.
Can't comment on the smog contol pipe beyond saying I'm unaware of such
things even being thought of in British cars of that vintage.
Simon.
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 05:33:00 EST
Subject: Re: Torque curve
RPM HP TORQUE PUBLISHED
1375 40.00 152.73
1500 43.50 152.25
1750 52.20 156.60
2000 61.00 160.13
2250 70.00 163.33
2500 78.00 163.80
2700 84.00 163.33 162
2750 85.80 163.80
3000 93.00 162.75
3250 100.50 162.35
3500 106.00 159.00
3750 112.00 156.80
4000 116.50 152.91
4250 120.30 148.61
4500 123.00 143.50
4600 124.00 137.05
4750 124.00 137.05
Note that the published torque is a bit under the theoretical. One could use
that to assume an efficiency factor (about 99.2%) and apply it to all the
theoretical torque values.
Sorry if rows and columns don't line up (...Aol email usually only looks good
on Aol email).
Regards all.
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 3/23/03 10:02:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< In a message dated 3/23/03 20:27:50, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Rick,
Thank you for the data. But isn't this horsepower, not torque?
Keith Pennell >>
Sure is HP not torque. I didn't even read it, other than to see which
engine...sorry. I just grabbed the graph referenced in another post.
Rick >>
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 05:40:47 EST
Subject: Re: Torque curve (Correction)
Sorry.
Steve
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 06:41:28 EST
Subject: Lens covers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 09:19:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Questions: using HS-6 instead of HS-4 for triple carb setup
Good Luck,
John
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 10:01:51 -0500
Subject: Re:Fwd: Say No To France
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 10:24:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Questions: using HS-6 instead of HS-4 for triple carb setup
It may be easier to get a matching set of HS 6 carbs off of the same type of
car.
Vintage
Volvo 122S, 544, 1800S, and early 140 all had HS 6 carbs and were/are quite
common
in
the USA. Find yourself a vintage Volvo specialist and he can fix you up
relatively
cheaply
with rebuildable carbs that match. If you have trouble finding such a person, I
have a good
friend who I can refer you to who has hundreds of HS 6 carbs in his warehouses
in
Carlisle,
PA. Let me know and I'll give you his contact information.
Charlie Baldwin
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I'm in the middle of putting a triple set of HS-6 carbs instead of the HS-4
> carbs on my BJ-7. I thought that I would gain more power with the larger (1
> 3/4) carb setup. Also, I like the looks of the tri carb setup,...nevermind
> that it is tougher to keep in tune and adjust. If I wanted something easier
>to
> keep in tune I'd buy one of those souless psuedo "new" sports cars out there
> and forget about it.
> Anyway, I only have two true HS-6 carbs. I do have a couple of extra 1 3/4 SU
> carbs that I pulled got at a junk yard when I was in the UK in the mid 80's.
>I
> do not know if they are considered HS-6 or not. The junkyard tag on them says
> Austin 1800, the carb tags say FXZ 1215 on one and FXZ1077 on the other. So,
> my question is, since these carbs look the same as my HS-6 1963 vintage SU
> carbs, except for a different throttle adjuster screw, a slightly different
>jet
> assembly, and a smog/vaccum take off pipe, shouldn't I be able to use one of
> these in as my third 1 3/4 carb? I plan on plugging the smog/vacuum pipe and
> rebuilding the carb and replacing the jet. I think that it sould flow the same
> as long as I have the same needles in all three carbs. Does this sound do-
> able? Any comments here would be greatly appreciated.
> thanks again,
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 09:42:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Fwd: Say No To France
> > Join the "Boycott France" Campaign.
> > Please review this list of major French companies that
> > Americans should boycott.
I appreciate your right to your opinion. I, being a US combat veteran, know
that many of us have fought ( and more than a few
have died) to allow you your opinion and would certainly continue to do so.
That being said, why don't you keep your political
crap somewhere other than a forum for cars. Regardless of your opinions, it
doesn't seem fair for you to blast this type of
trivia and pap into my computer without an invitation.
Have you even considered the lunacy of this chain letter? It is even more
absurd than the folks who have decided not to buy
fuel from Exxon on Tuesdays. Here's a clue for you: when something says to
send it to everyone you know or keep the chain
going, you are marking yourself as not very bright! If you're really into
ragging the French, make paper copies and PAY to
send this crap out to your friends. Now, there is an idea for you.
Required Healey information: My Bugeye has found a new home in the Chicago
area. The new owners are long time Bugeye fans
and, I'm sure, they will take care of my "old car". I'm convinced it went to a
good home.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:22:41 EST
Subject: BT7 soft top frame
Thanks
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 12:38:39 -0500
Subject: Politics and religion
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 18:48:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Say No To France
I second your opinion and words very much (though not having been in combat -
being to
young, 41 years old). When I first read the initial mail I thought about
replying or not.
I would say everyone in the world has the right to have his own opinion. As far
as I
remember my history knowledge from school days, the americans fought for that
right
fiercely in their history.
_Good to know that there are still people like you in the States_.
If I would like to read this stuff on a mailing list - I am sure there are
several places
to find.
So please Mr. Nock do not send this stuff to the Healey list.
Just my 2 cts from over the pond.
Martin
Germany
BN4 '59 still in parts
NSU 1200 TT '71
Audi A3 1,8 T Quattro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <british-cars@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: Fwd: Say No To France
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > > Join the "Boycott France" Campaign.
> > > Please review this list of major French companies that
> > > Americans should boycott.
>
> I appreciate your right to your opinion. I, being a US combat veteran, know
>that many
of us have fought ( and more than a few
> have died) to allow you your opinion and would certainly continue to do so.
>That being
said, why don't you keep your political
> crap somewhere other than a forum for cars. Regardless of your opinions, it
>doesn't
seem fair for you to blast this type of
> trivia and pap into my computer without an invitation.
>
> Have you even considered the lunacy of this chain letter? It is even more
>absurd than
the folks who have decided not to buy
> fuel from Exxon on Tuesdays. Here's a clue for you: when something says to
>send it to
everyone you know or keep the chain
> going, you are marking yourself as not very bright! If you're really into
>ragging the
French, make paper copies and PAY to
> send this crap out to your friends. Now, there is an idea for you.
>
> Required Healey information: My Bugeye has found a new home in the Chicago
>area. The
new owners are long time Bugeye fans
> and, I'm sure, they will take care of my "old car". I'm convinced it went to
>a good
home.
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:07:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Politics and religion
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: 24-Mar-03 12:39 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Politics and religion
Group. I am on several other lists on other subjects and in the past
every
time someone decided to voice their opinion on a political or religious
subject, the lists go haywire. On one list the owner actually had to
shut it
down for two weeks until everyone cooled off. The rule now is NO
POLITICAL
OR RELIGIOUS COMMENTS and if you violate the rule you are kicked off of
the
list. That seems pretty harsh but it was the only way we could keep the
list
going. If not for the rule the lists just erupted into a free for all of
name calling and hurt feelings. These lists are not a street corner
where
anyone can express any opinion without regard to the other members. So
PLEASE keep you views to yourself and the list will be much more civil.
Lets
talk about Healeys. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:23:06 -0700
Subject: Front Shroud Needed
As a side note, I am once again amazed at the daisy-chain effect of doing a
restoration. I'm finishing up on the repairs of my frame and want to work on
brake lines, wiring, etc. I can't do that until I paint the frame, though. I
can't paint the frame as I don't have the rockers or rear pillars on yet. I
can't put those on until I'm sure the body panels fit. I can't fit the panels
until I fix my shroud. So, here I am looking for a shroud.
Thanks in advance!
Ken Ballard
'62 BN7 Tri-Carb
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:41:29 EST
Subject: politics
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:20:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey pictures from heritage museum
I have some complimentary shots of XJB 876 as I
convinced the curator to open the engine compartment
and let me sit inside. Pushy I know...
If you are planning to build out your web site, let me
know, and they are yours!
A few are posted here.
http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/uniparthealey.html
Dean
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> Having just returned from England, I've posted
> pictures of the ex-works car
> XJB 876 that was driven to a few victories by the
> Morley brothers.
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:56:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Rear end spline torque specs?
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 15:51:07 -0800
Subject: BN1 axle
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:29:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Needed
If it helps at all, it sounds like your doing everything in the correct
order.
You could always pick up a cheap "B" to drive for some English "Kicks
and Giggles" while the Healey is in the pits.
Persevere my friend, Mark
: Front Shroud Needed
> Does anyone know where I can get a good front shroud for my '62 BN7? Mine
is badly smashed on the right side. I'm not sure if it can be straightened
and rather than spend the time trying I thought I should see if I can find a
good one used.
>
> As a side note, I am once again amazed at the daisy-chain effect of doing
a restoration. I'm finishing up on the repairs of my frame and want to work
on brake lines, wiring, etc. I can't do that until I paint the frame,
though. I can't paint the frame as I don't have the rockers or rear pillars
on yet. I can't put those on until I'm sure the body panels fit. I can't
fit the panels until I fix my shroud. So, here I am looking for a shroud.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ken Ballard
> '62 BN7 Tri-Carb
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:47:49 -0500
Subject: Vinyl Dye
My starting color is red and I'm thinking about green.
Thanks much.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye w/red interior
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:23:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Fwd: Say No To France
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from two. During the visit he mentioned that he would be trying to sell the
shrouds from one of
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:33:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BN1 axle
--- norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net> wrote: << Anyone out there have an Axle
for an early 100-4
? (4 Bolt) I twisted the splines off of one and I know they are not too
available. Is it possible
to machine the flange on a later 5-bolt pattern axle to work?. Norm Cay 53
BN1, body 1086
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:51:09 EST
Subject: bugeye mirrors
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:18:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Vinyl Dye
Good Luck,
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)
M Lempert wrote:
> What experiences have you folks had with vinyl dye ? I'm wondering if it's
> an acceptable alternative to replacing dash and panel vinyl. Any
> limitations such as dark to light conversions ? Brands, sources ?
>
> My starting color is red and I'm thinking about green.
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> Charleston, SC
> '56 BN2
> '59 BN7
> '60 Bugeye w/red interior
> '67 Mustang
> '70 E-Type
> '79 Midget
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From Jim Baustian <jabaustian at att.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:32:31 -0600
Subject: BN1 axle
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 18:41:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Stator Tube question
I also removed the old stator tube and found that it
is about 18 inches shorter than the replacement I just
bought.
Can anyone suggest a source for this short tube?
I recall seeing a posting that described a "springee
thingee" that would hold the stator in the center of
the steering arm. I am missing this as well.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 18:58:04 -0800
Subject: Substitute drive (was Re: Front Shroud Needed)
I finally gave in and did nearly that. My BN1 has been apart for a couple
years now. There is no way that I'm going to get it drivable in the next 5
years AND stay married, keep the kids, or maintain the mortgage.
I bought a Miata. I needed it for a daily driver. Tons of fun and a constant
reminder of why I'm spending so much time in the shop with the Healey.
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 02:59:01 +0000
Subject: Found Healey Contact
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:43:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Substitute drive (was Re: Front Shroud Needed)
" There is no way that I'm going to get it drivable in the next 5
years AND stay married, keep the kids, or maintain the mortgage."
So what's the problem?
;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> > You could always pick up a cheap "B" to drive for some English
> "Kicks
> > and Giggles" while the Healey is in the pits.
> >
>
> I finally gave in and did nearly that. My BN1 has been apart for a couple
> years now. There is no way that I'm going to get it drivable in the next 5
> years AND stay married, keep the kids, or maintain the mortgage.
>
> I bought a Miata. I needed it for a daily driver. Tons of fun and a constant
> reminder of why I'm spending so much time in the shop with the Healey.
>
> Brad Weldon
> 55 BN1
> Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
> http://www.healey.org/
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:45:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Vinyl Dye
Bill Lawrence
PS: Do you have me on your list for a gear set? I sent the deposit, but haven't
heard back. When should we expect delivery?
M Lempert wrote:
> What experiences have you folks had with vinyl dye ? I'm wondering if it's
> an acceptable alternative to replacing dash and panel vinyl. Any
> limitations such as dark to light conversions ? Brands, sources ?
>
> My starting color is red and I'm thinking about green.
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> Charleston, SC
> '56 BN2
> '59 BN7
> '60 Bugeye w/red interior
> '67 Mustang
> '70 E-Type
> '79 Midget
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:57:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Say No To France
> I second your opinion and words very much (though not having been in combat -
>being to
> young, 41 years old).
No problem, Martin. I'm glad you were too young, sir. The combat thing is not
all it's
cracked up to be. It does build character, however.
> When I first read the initial mail I thought about replying or not.
> I would say everyone in the world has the right to have his own opinion.
Yessir, that is true. The only question is the forum. I would opine that this
is not the
forum for this type of thing.
> As far as I remember my history knowledge from school days, the americans
>fought for that
> right fiercely in their history.
Yessir, that is correct, too.
> _Good to know that there are still people like you in the States_.
Well, I don't know if I would go that far, Martin, but it sounds good. There
are still a ton
of us around the US. Fewer every day but there are still a bunch of us.
Anyone want to get back to the discussion of Healeys? I, for one, would
certainly welcome
the opportunity.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:36:40 -0500
Subject: removing the engine - safe places to bolt the chain
If not, what other places have people used to attach a chain.
Pretty basic, but very dramatic if the wrong place is attached. I used the
lifter cover that holds the generator last time. $160 to replace that broken
piece. :( so I'm not doing that again.
Ryan
BJ7
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:51:31 -0800
Subject: Re: bugeye mirrors
There is a picture of a similar treatment for big Healeys on page 9 of the
current issue (3/03) of Austin-Healey Magazine.
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: <GMGoodman@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:51 PM
Subject: bugeye mirrors
> would like to have some rear view mirrors....but don't want to invade body
> with holes....any ideas?
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:06:32 -0700
Subject: Re: removing the engine - safe places to bolt the chain
It's not necessary to remove the engine to change the cam timing. The tricky
part
is getting the Crank nut and vibration damper off, but these are possible
although you may need to raise the engine a little to clear the chassis cross
member.
Whatever you decide, good luck.
Bill lawrence
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> List:
> After several days of measurements it appears that my cam is about 90 degrees
> off (go figure - the shop installed the cam).
> So... I'm pulling the engine so I can get to the timing chain. I'm sure we've
> discussed this, but can I simply attach a chain to the long bolts that go
> through two of the rocker support brackets and lift the engine, head and all?
>
> If not, what other places have people used to attach a chain.
>
> Pretty basic, but very dramatic if the wrong place is attached. I used the
> lifter cover that holds the generator last time. $160 to replace that broken
> piece. :( so I'm not doing that again.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "Jim Wojcik" <jwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:12:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Windscreen question
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:57:12 -0800
Subject: copperstate 1000
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:33:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Torque curve
Did you try Road and Track? I have a copy of the R&T test data (circa 1959)
that
charts RPM/mph/shift data/and coasting. R&T used to sell page reprints for
about
$4.00 per page. If you wish, I can send you a copy of my page, but it's really
faded.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Anyone out there tell me where I can get a graph of the torque curve for the
> early 3000?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 03:55:10 EST
Subject: Re: removing the engine - safe places to bolt the chain
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 07:28:21 -0600
Subject: Distributor Question
Is this back to the old trial and error routine?
Thanks, Mark
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:08:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Front Shroud Needed
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 6:29 PM
To: Ken Ballard; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Needed
Ken,
Been there done that, I feel your pain. Its about this time that an
unmolested, unrusted, $17,000. Healey sounds pretty good.
After 5 years my tub is finally ready for the paint shop. I still have
the shrouds to massage.
Well, maybe our kids will enjoy driving our cars.
If it helps at all, it sounds like your doing everything in the correct
order.
You could always pick up a cheap "B" to drive for some English "Kicks
and Giggles" while the Healey is in the pits.
Persevere my friend, Mark
: Front Shroud Needed
> Does anyone know where I can get a good front shroud for my '62 BN7? Mine
is badly smashed on the right side. I'm not sure if it can be straightened
and rather than spend the time trying I thought I should see if I can find a
good one used.
>
> As a side note, I am once again amazed at the daisy-chain effect of doing
a restoration. I'm finishing up on the repairs of my frame and want to work
on brake lines, wiring, etc. I can't do that until I paint the frame,
though. I can't paint the frame as I don't have the rockers or rear pillars
on yet. I can't put those on until I'm sure the body panels fit. I can't
fit the panels until I fix my shroud. So, here I am looking for a shroud.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ken Ballard
> '62 BN7 Tri-Carb
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:26:15 EST
Subject: Re: removing the engine - safe places to bolt the chain
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:48:43 EST
Subject: Minnesota Healey Club HELP Needed
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:10:16 -0600
Subject: RE: Stator Tube question
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wood [mailto:jwood_kc@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 8:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Stator Tube question
I removed the control head from adjustable wheel on my
BJ8. I discovered that the control head is missing
the short (approx 6 inch) tube that should connect the
stator tube to the control head assembly.
I also removed the old stator tube and found that it
is about 18 inches shorter than the replacement I just
bought.
Can anyone suggest a source for this short tube?
I recall seeing a posting that described a "springee
thingee" that would hold the stator in the center of
the steering arm. I am missing this as well.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:24:14 -0600
Subject: Distributor Question
Setting the curve in distributor is tricky business. In graph form you
are dealing with points in a three dimensional display. The three inputs
are: rpm; load and advance.
The vacuum advance on the distributor adjusts for load by responding to
manifold vacuum. More load equals less vacuum equals less advance. The
vacuum advances the distributor under light load conditions and is non
functional under heavy load conditions.
The mechanical advance via the springs, weights and plate profile adjusts
advance for rpm. The distributor typically has a light spring and a heavy
spring so that the mechanical advance is not linear. The initial advance
is quicker. Then, when the built in slack in the heavier spring is taken
up, both springs will be engaged causing the rate of advance to slow down
with increased rpms.
When cruising at high rpms, you will have both mechanical and some vacuum
advance (due to light loads). If you accelerate to pass, the vacuum
advance will go away.
In setting up the distributor, it needs to be matched to the engine and cam
(more cam duration, less advance; more air/fuel, more advance). The
adjustments include spring combinations, weight combinations, profile of
the movable plate (adjustment of total advance by positioning the stop) and
adjustment of the amount of vacuum that is ported to the distributor
(different areas of the manifold and carb have different vacuum values).
Do some research to determine the factory curves of each of the
distributors. Match the new distributor to the original curve as a
start. Then, it is a matter of testing. If you are loosing high end
power, you may need more advance up top. If you rotate the distributor for
more advance up top then have problems with pinging at the low end, you can
either reduce the vacuum advance or increase the mechanical advance and
rotate the distributor back to its original position.
Hope this was not too confusing.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:40:46 EST
Subject: Re: removing the engine - safe places to bolt the chain
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 09:01:12 -0800
Subject: BN1 Axle-(axle shaft)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:16:55 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Axle-(axle shaft)
As I mentioned we have the axle shafts.
BTW I'm pretty sure that you can actually get the piece out without
taking the whole thing apart.
A piece of 3/16" rod will go in from the other side, once that axle is
removed, and can be used to push out the broken part.
We have had some high strength axles made for racing with those diffs. I
don't think the original steel was that good however if you look closely
you will see that every one has been hardness tested as evidenced by the
small imprint of a ball in a flattened area the surface of the shaft.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of norman cay
Sent: 25-Mar-03 12:01 PM
To: healeys
Subject: BN1 Axle-(axle shaft)
I guess that I made a mistake regarding the nomenclature of the axle.
The axle housing, differential and all are ok, I really just broke one
of
the axle shafts, it twisted off the spline about 2 inches from the end.
I
had to remove the entire gear carrier to get the piece out but I don't
believe any of the diff gears or bearings are damaged.
This is from an early BN1, 4-bolt pattern
Norm Cay
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:34:34 -0500
Subject: engine
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 15:00:13 EST
Subject: Re: engine
The firing order on all the 6 cylinder Healeys is 1-5-3-6-2-4
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 16:24:05 -0500
Subject: RE: engine
Unlike many U.S. engines you cannot spin the oil pump in a Healey engine
to prime the oil system without turning the whole engine.
I have a little rig using a power steering pump that we connect up to
the oil pressure connection on the block and pump the oil into the
engine through there. It runs up to about 70 p.s.i which is enough to
open the relief valve. You can do the same thing with a piece of tube
and a funnel hooked up to the same spot. That method is pretty slow but
if you have a few hours while you hook up other things it is quite
effective.
If you packed the oil pump with grease the engine will prime in about 10
seconds with a full filter. Probably 3 times that with an empty one.
The firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4 cylinders number from the front.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of guymark.studios
Sent: 25-Mar-03 2:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: engine
Hi everyone,
Am helping put a reassembled, rebuilt engine into a BJ8. My 2 questions
are:
1.. How do you circulate the oil throughout before you start it. The
book
says to put oil in the oil filter and then run but I have a new spin on
that
is sideways and I would like to gt some oil in there first.
2.. What is the fireing order for the plugs? Front to back or back to
front?
Any info would be greatly appreciated because I'd like to do a road test
asap
because the weather is getting better with each day.
I appreciate it,
Thank you,
Guy G. 1963 BJ7
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 13:42:06 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Alternator
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:58:05 -0500
Subject: Temp Gauge
Was out for a short drive today and the temp gauge in my BJ8 flickered a
few times(after reaching normal operating temp) and then died. I have
checked all of the obvious things and find nothing unusual. The oil
pressure half of gauge works fine.
For those that have had this problem can any of you offer a possible fix?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:12:43 -0500
Subject: Temp Gauge
From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434
To: healey list, INTERNET:healeys@autox.team.net
Date: 3/25/2003 2:59 PM
RE: Temp Gauge
Hello List,
Was out for a short drive today and the temp gauge in my BJ8 flickered a
few times(after reaching normal operating temp) and then died. I have
checked all of the obvious things and find nothing unusual. The oil
pressure half of gauge works fine.
For those that have had this problem can any of you offer a possible fix?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:54:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: Stator Tube question
> I removed the control head from adjustable wheel on my
> BJ8. I discovered that the control head is missing
> the short (approx 6 inch) tube that should connect the
> stator tube to the control head assembly.
>
> I also removed the old stator tube and found that it
> is about 18 inches shorter than the replacement I just
> bought.
>
> Can anyone suggest a source for this short tube?
>
> I recall seeing a posting that described a "springee
> thingee" that would hold the stator in the center of
> the steering arm. I am missing this as well.
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:42:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: engine
I'm sure some guys will give me guff over this, but
when I reassembled my BJ8 motor, I simply oiled all
the components by hand and , using the early 3000 oil
pump (which everyone says is better than the BJ8 gear
style pump), simply just made sure there was plenty of
oil on the pumps surfaces and just about everywhere
(except I put only a VERY light, even amount on the
cylinder walls, kind of like seasoning a frying pan).
I started the motor with no problems and it has been
working flawlessly over the last 50,000 miles. It
still runs like a new motor... no burning oil and no
appreciable wear....
In addition, if you are using a spin on filter, I
highly suggest getting one with a check-valve in it...
to keep oil from draining back into the motor when the
motor is off. Fram PH43 has a check valve in it...
although I am not suggesting you use Fram... but a
substitute can be easily found.
The filter you have may already have a check valve on
it... you can check this by alternately blowing and
sucking on the big hole (no sexual jokes please) and
if air only flows in one direction you know the filter
has a check valve on it. This is a good thing if
that's the case.
Oh yes... and the oil you first use should be a cheap
30 wieght, non detergent... which you change out after
about 500 - 1000 miles...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Am helping put a reassembled, rebuilt engine into a
> BJ8. My 2 questions are:
> 1.. How do you circulate the oil throughout before
> you start it. The book
> says to put oil in the oil filter and then run but I
> have a new spin on that
> is sideways and I would like to gt some oil in there
> first.
> 2.. What is the fireing order for the plugs? Front
> to back or back to
> front?
> Any info would be greatly appreciated because I'd
> like to do a road test asap
> because the weather is getting better with each day.
> I appreciate it,
> Thank you,
> Guy G. 1963 BJ7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:47:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Alternator
I've seen several factory rally cars with the coil
mounted on or below the horns on the right hand side
pillar. Seems the logical place to put it. the rally
cars I've seen this done, they usually have the coil
end facing downward, but mounting it sideways is
probably more convenient for maintenance. plus with
the bolts for the horn already there, you might be
able to get away without having to drill any holes to
mount the coil if you do it right....
Good Luck
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John <john4@attbi.com> wrote:
> I'm planning to mount an alternator into my BJ8.
> The bracket for the coil
> that wraps around the generator does not fit over
> the alternator I'm using.
> Any thoughts on different places to mount the coil?
> Thanks for any advice.
> John Trifari 1955 BN1/1966 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:57:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge
I hate to say this, but the temperature guage has a
purely mechanical function... so it can not be an
electrical failure or bad connection. The temperature
guage should typically be one of the most reliable
functioning instruments on a healey.
If the temperature guage does not work, it more than
likely needs to be rebuilt. The most likely cause is
a hairline crack in the copper tube somewhere, or a
failure of the instrument's sensor itself.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com> wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> Was out for a short drive today and the temp gauge
> in my BJ8 flickered a
> few times(after reaching normal operating temp) and
> then died. I have
> checked all of the obvious things and find nothing
> unusual. The oil
> pressure half of gauge works fine.
> For those that have had this problem can any of you
> offer a possible fix?
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:11:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
Hope this clarifies my original post.
Jim Wood
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> Last time I looked at my tube, I don't recall a
> springy thingy, just 2 tubes
> that insert into each other and sort of lock
> together. Is the Bj8 tube
> different than the BT7, Anyone?
> Is spingy thingy just another name for retaining
> clip (C clip)?
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 8:41 PM
> Subject: Stator Tube question
>
>
> > I removed the control head from adjustable wheel
> on my
> > BJ8. I discovered that the control head is
> missing
> > the short (approx 6 inch) tube that should connect
> the
> > stator tube to the control head assembly.
> >
> > I also removed the old stator tube and found that
> it
> > is about 18 inches shorter than the replacement I
> just
> > bought.
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a source for this short tube?
> >
> > I recall seeing a posting that described a
> "springee
> > thingee" that would hold the stator in the center
> of
> > the steering arm. I am missing this as well.
> >
> > Jim Wood
> > '67 BJ8
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:29:36 -0800
Subject: Oil Pumps (was: engine)
"early 3000 oil pump (which everyone says is better than the BJ8 gear
style pump)"
I've never heard this, can anyone elaborate?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:33:51 -0700
Subject: Re: engine
The cylinders are numbered 1 through 6 from front to rear. The Firing order is
153624. As a memory aid just think about women: 15 is too young, 36 is too old
(for some of you guys maybe), and 24 is about right.
Good luck.
Bill lawrence
"guymark.studios" wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Am helping put a reassembled, rebuilt engine into a BJ8. My 2 questions are:
> 1.. How do you circulate the oil throughout before you start it. The book
> says to put oil in the oil filter and then run but I have a new spin on that
> is sideways and I would like to gt some oil in there first.
> 2.. What is the fireing order for the plugs? Front to back or back to
> front?
> Any info would be greatly appreciated because I'd like to do a road test asap
> because the weather is getting better with each day.
> I appreciate it,
> Thank you,
> Guy G. 1963 BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:35:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
On the 100 (left hand drive) the reservoir is
mounted on a fairly flexible piece
of steel strap and when the engine runs it just
sits there and shakes. I've
noticed that when the engine idles the reservoir
will just shake fluid out of
the vent hole. I'm going to cure that one of these days!
Bill Lawrence
Brian Collins wrote:
> Any thoughts on why I get hydraulic brake/clutch fluid coming out the top of
> the reservoir,....even with the cap on?
>
> Thanks god its Silicone!
>
> Brian
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:39:50 -0800
Subject: Re: engine
It worked on my BT7, and a friend's XKE.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 11:34 AM
Subject: engine
> Hi everyone,
> Am helping put a reassembled, rebuilt engine into a BJ8. My 2 questions
are:
> 1.. How do you circulate the oil throughout before you start it. The
book
> says to put oil in the oil filter and then run but I have a new spin on
that
> is sideways and I would like to gt some oil in there first.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:45:53 -0700
Subject: Re: engine
Dave Russell
ynotink wrote:
> You may be able to get some oil into the filter that will speed the
> pressurization of the oil system, but probably not much. You may want to crank
> the engine without the ignition connected until the oil pressure shows on the
> gauge. Then connect the ignition and start up.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:10:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
I'm pretty sure that the shorter of the two tubes, as you describe it, is
supposed to be an integral part of the whole horn / turn signal switch
assembly. It is welded (or maybe crimped) to the clamp plate that the
little 'grub' screws grab to hold the whole thing into the steering wheel
hub. It has a series of 'cleats' pressed into it that engage with the slot
in the long stator tube in order to allow the up and down adjustment of the
wheel.
This assembly was basically the same on all 6 cyl. Healeys with adjustable
steering. Both of my original parts manuals, as well as the workshop
manual, don't really clearly illustrate the way that the parts go together,
so I can understand a bit of uncertainty.
I think it was lister Mike Salter who coined the 'springy thingy' phrase
awhile back - that was a bit of a revelation to me - hadn't been there
before!
Hope this helps a bit.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
The "springee thingee" is simply a collar to keep the
stator tube centered. The real question and need I
have is for the shorter of the two tubes that slide
together. I have purchased a new replacement for the
longer one.
Hope this clarifies my original post.
Jim Wood
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> Last time I looked at my tube, I don't recall a
> springy thingy, just 2 tubes
> that insert into each other and sort of lock
> together. Is the Bj8 tube
> different than the BT7, Anyone?
> Is spingy thingy just another name for retaining
> clip (C clip)?
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 8:41 PM
> Subject: Stator Tube question
>
>
> > I removed the control head from adjustable wheel
> on my
> > BJ8. I discovered that the control head is
> missing
> > the short (approx 6 inch) tube that should connect
> the
> > stator tube to the control head assembly.
> >
> > I also removed the old stator tube and found that
> it
> > is about 18 inches shorter than the replacement I
> just
> > bought.
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a source for this short tube?
> >
> > I recall seeing a posting that described a
> "springee
> > thingee" that would hold the stator in the center
> of
> > the steering arm. I am missing this as well.
> >
> > Jim Wood
> > '67 BJ8
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From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:09:38 -0800
Subject: 100-4 FOR SALE/ with hardtop
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 21:05:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Pumps (was: engine)
The later is a straight gear type in which one external gear drives another
external
gear. both having a larger number of teeth.
I believe the rotary pump has a higher supply capacity, but at high speeds it
produces pulsations which can be detrimental to a high performance engine. I've
heard it can strip the oil pump drive gear on the cam.
The gear type does not produce the volume of flow of the rotary type, but the
larger
number of smaller teeth produce less pulsation in the lubrication system and
less
chance of damage.
For normal operation I think you can use either style, but if you use a gear
pump
expect oil pressure to be 5-10 psi lower.
Bill Lawrence
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Alan says:
>
> "early 3000 oil pump (which everyone says is better than the BJ8 gear
> style pump)"
>
> I've never heard this, can anyone elaborate?
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From "Sexton, Sean T (LCDR)" <n321b at cusnc.navy.mil>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 07:17:29 +0300
Subject: RE: oil filter, was engine
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 6:46 AM
To: ynotink
Cc: guymark.studios; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: engine
To fill a sideways mounted spin-on filter, just set it open end up, pour
the oil in, quickly tip it sideways, & screw it on. The check valve will
keep most of the oil in, only a very small amount runs out. Try it,
you'll like it.
Dave Russell
ynotink wrote:
> You may be able to get some oil into the filter that will speed the
> pressurization of the oil system, but probably not much. You may want to
crank
> the engine without the ignition connected until the oil pressure shows on
the
> gauge. Then connect the ignition and start up.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:23:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Oil Pumps (was: engine)
The older style oil pumps on 3000s are "rotary vane"
style. They were replaced by gear pumps at the
factory on BJ8s for cost reasons, as a gear style pump
is much cheaper to make.
The advantage with a rotary vane pump is they are less
susceptible to wear, and keep a more consistent
pumping pressure at low RPMs and also when the oil
gets warm.... at least that's how I understand it...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Alan says:
>
> "early 3000 oil pump (which everyone says is better
> than the BJ8 gear
> style pump)"
>
> I've never heard this, can anyone elaborate?
>
> bs
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 00:06:25 EST
Subject: Jet diaphragm lifespans
Is this what you guys are getting out of yours?
Thanks,
Rick
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 00:20:16 -0500
Subject: removing Engine Crank Nut ?
First, thank you all who gave me the help in how to gain access to the crank
nut. I didn't need to pull the engine--or transmission, which I just put back
in after learning this :) --
Question: do most people use a pipe wrench on the end nut, or should I go out
and buy a 1/2 " drive socket (1 11/16" by my measurement) to loosen and then
tighten this badboy ?
Thanks.
Ryan
BJ7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 23:26:14 -0700
Subject: Re: removing Engine Crank Nut ?
See this thread in the archives.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200303/msg00280.html
Dave Russell
Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
> List
>
> First, thank you all who gave me the help in how to gain access to the crank
> nut. I didn't need to pull the engine--or transmission, which I just put back
> in after learning this :) --
>
> Question: do most people use a pipe wrench on the end nut, or should I go out
> and buy a 1/2 " drive socket (1 11/16" by my measurement) to loosen and then
> tighten this badboy ?
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 04:09:59 EST
Subject: Re: removing Engine Crank Nut ?
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 05:37:37 EST
Subject: Re: Jet diaphragm lifespans
Definitely the MTBE. I had some that were made of a green rubber that
lasted about a year. The black rubber ones (which I assume are the older
version) last much longer.
Regards,
Rick
In a message dated 3/26/03 1:08:00 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<<Hi,
I just ordered another pair of Jet diaphragms for my HD6 carbs for the third
time in 7 years. I live in CA, so maybe it's the MTBE or something. I bought
all of them from Moss.
Is this what you guys are getting out of yours?
Thanks,
Rick>>
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 05:32:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Jet diaphragm lifespans
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 07:28:33 -0700
Subject: Re: engine
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <guymark.studios@snet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: engine
> Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over after filling with oil.
You
> should get oil pressure in about 30 seconds. If you do not get oil
pressure
> wait a little while and try again. YOu should put the oil in the engine a
> couple hours before you try to get the oil pressure to allow the oil time
to
> get into the pump.
>
> The firing order on all the 6 cylinder Healeys is 1-5-3-6-2-4
>
> **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:46:51 -0500
Subject: Thank you all re engine
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:06:19 -0600
Subject: RE: Stator Tube question and emergency repair
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 10:11 PM
To: Jim Wood
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
Jim:
I'm pretty sure that the shorter of the two tubes, as you describe it, is
supposed to be an integral part of the whole horn / turn signal switch
assembly. It is welded (or maybe crimped) to the clamp plate that the
little 'grub' screws grab to hold the whole thing into the steering wheel
hub. It has a series of 'cleats' pressed into it that engage with the slot
in the long stator tube in order to allow the up and down adjustment of the
wheel.
This assembly was basically the same on all 6 cyl. Healeys with adjustable
steering. Both of my original parts manuals, as well as the workshop
manual, don't really clearly illustrate the way that the parts go together,
so I can understand a bit of uncertainty.
I think it was lister Mike Salter who coined the 'springy thingy' phrase
awhile back - that was a bit of a revelation to me - hadn't been there
before!
Hope this helps a bit.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
-
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 07:36:25 -0800
Subject: RE: Jet diaphragm lifespans
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 07:46:12 -0800
Subject: BJ8 windshield screws final probably
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 08:25:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question
> Jim:
>
> I'm pretty sure that the shorter of the two tubes, as you describe it, is
> supposed to be an integral part of the whole horn / turn signal switch
> assembly. It is welded (or maybe crimped) to the clamp plate that the
> little 'grub' screws grab to hold the whole thing into the steering wheel
> hub. It has a series of 'cleats' pressed into it that engage with the
slot
> in the long stator tube in order to allow the up and down adjustment of
the
> wheel.
>
> This assembly was basically the same on all 6 cyl. Healeys with adjustable
> steering.
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:09:37 -0800
Subject: Healey Manuals
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:32:07 -0800
Subject: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
I wanted to get your thoughts (from any of you that are willing to reply)
about bearing installation in the rear hubs, and to post what I did to get
one bearing to fit tightly into a hub.
I have a set of hubs plus 2 extra (4 total). With 3 of the 4 hubs, the
bearing drops right into the hub with no pressure. The 4th hub requires a
hydraulic press for installation of the bearing into the hub. From one of
the Healey web sites, I found a drawing and instructions to make a tool to
install the oil seal, and had a friend make one for me. I pressed in the
oil seal, and then the bearing in the one hub. The hub bearing spacer
stands proud as suggested in the service manual, by 0.004 inches.
I didn't feel comfortable with just the pressure of the hub bearing spacer
holding the bearing tightly in place in the second hub. After some thought,
this is what I did to get a tight fit between the bearing and the hub. I
decided to zinc plate the hub to get a tight fit. First I bead blasted the
hub (actually did this to all 4).
I didn't want the inside diameter of the hub to get too small to properly
press in the oil seal, so I pressed in the oil seal before plating, and
removed the round metal spring from the inner lip (don't want to plate
this). I placed the hub with installed oil seal in the electrolyte solution
of my Eastwood zinc plating kit. No problem with damage to the oil seal, as
the electrolyte does not attack plastic. I attached one lead from the
battery kit to the hub, and the other to the zinc electrode, and placed the
zinc electrode in the acid and in the center of the hub.
It took about 1/2 hour to get the proper thickness of plating. I pulled the
hub out of the bath about every ten minutes to check the fit, cleaning the
acid off the hub prior to trying the fit. once I experienced interference
between the ID of the hub and the OD of the bearing, I decided I had enough
zinc on the hub to have the desired fit. I reinstalled the round spring in
the oil seal after cleaning off all sulfuric acid from the hub. Then I
pressed in the bearing. The hub looks great, with the zinc plating on it,
and the bearing is held tightly in place. The hub bearing spacer stands
proud of the hub surface, yet I need to check to see if it's within the
0.001 to 0.004 tolerance.
That's what I did to get a tight fit between one of my rear hubs and the
bearing. With the two extra hubs, the bearings drop in. What do you think,
any comments would be welcome.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From "mark lawrence" <mlawrence at rome.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 11:25:41 -0800
Subject: steering box leak
How should I fix this leak?
Could this have something to do with the fact that my turn signals are testy?
Thanks.
Mark
Venice, CA
--
__________________________________________________________
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 13:54:11 -0600
Subject: single or double filaments
Anyone else been through this that can tell me which my car requires
before Ed Thrashes me for "Wasting Useless Bandwidth" (:>)....or, was that a
"useless waste of bandwidth,.....seems like it should be "a waste of
otherwise useful bandwidth................(:>)
Come to think of it, How about if all responses come directly to me then
Ed's shorts won't get all tied up in a big knot. bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks in advance for all the assistance. I should have the car finally
done (He will still need to install the interior panel kit, carpeting, trunk
lining kit and top which go with the car) in the next week. and then it
will get passed on to its new owner in New Jersey.
Brian
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 14:55:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Although you are to be commended for your efforts, my personal opinion,
and one that I know all do not share, is that red Locktite does the same
job quite adequately.
In my ancient history we used to use the same stuff for the same type of
job in DeHavilland Goblin jet engines. Seemed to work there too, of
course I didn't actually have to fly the things :-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Golding, Frank
Sent: 26-Mar-03 12:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
List,
I wanted to get your thoughts (from any of you that are willing to
reply)
about bearing installation in the rear hubs, and to post what I did to
get
one bearing to fit tightly into a hub.
I have a set of hubs plus 2 extra (4 total). With 3 of the 4 hubs, the
bearing drops right into the hub with no pressure. The 4th hub requires
a
hydraulic press for installation of the bearing into the hub. From one
of
the Healey web sites, I found a drawing and instructions to make a tool
to
install the oil seal, and had a friend make one for me. I pressed in
the
oil seal, and then the bearing in the one hub. The hub bearing spacer
stands proud as suggested in the service manual, by 0.004 inches.
I didn't feel comfortable with just the pressure of the hub bearing
spacer
holding the bearing tightly in place in the second hub. After some
thought,
this is what I did to get a tight fit between the bearing and the hub.
I
decided to zinc plate the hub to get a tight fit. First I bead blasted
the
hub (actually did this to all 4).
I didn't want the inside diameter of the hub to get too small to
properly
press in the oil seal, so I pressed in the oil seal before plating, and
removed the round metal spring from the inner lip (don't want to plate
this). I placed the hub with installed oil seal in the electrolyte
solution
of my Eastwood zinc plating kit. No problem with damage to the oil
seal, as
the electrolyte does not attack plastic. I attached one lead from the
battery kit to the hub, and the other to the zinc electrode, and placed
the
zinc electrode in the acid and in the center of the hub.
It took about 1/2 hour to get the proper thickness of plating. I pulled
the
hub out of the bath about every ten minutes to check the fit, cleaning
the
acid off the hub prior to trying the fit. once I experienced
interference
between the ID of the hub and the OD of the bearing, I decided I had
enough
zinc on the hub to have the desired fit. I reinstalled the round spring
in
the oil seal after cleaning off all sulfuric acid from the hub. Then I
pressed in the bearing. The hub looks great, with the zinc plating on
it,
and the bearing is held tightly in place. The hub bearing spacer stands
proud of the hub surface, yet I need to check to see if it's within the
0.001 to 0.004 tolerance.
That's what I did to get a tight fit between one of my rear hubs and the
bearing. With the two extra hubs, the bearings drop in. What do you
think,
any comments would be welcome.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 12:00:16 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
The Locktite would be a lot quicker, and more cost effective for those that
don't have the plating kit or accesses to a media blaster and hydraulic
press. I will keep the red Locktite idea in mind for future reference.
Thanks,
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 11:55 AM
To: 'Golding, Frank'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Hi Frank,
Although you are to be commended for your efforts, my personal opinion,
and one that I know all do not share, is that red Locktite does the same
job quite adequately.
In my ancient history we used to use the same stuff for the same type of
job in DeHavilland Goblin jet engines. Seemed to work there too, of
course I didn't actually have to fly the things :-)
Michael Salter
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 14:13:25 -0600
Subject: Re: steering box leak
Can you tell if the drips are coming out of the tube the wiring is in or
from around where the tube exits the steering box? Also is the
olive(compression washer) and nut attached and snug.
Another thought is if there was any remaining old lubricant left in the box
when you added the Steering Lube it could be pushing out the old as it
settles in. All the tube does is give a passage for the horn and turn
signal wiring through the steering box.
As for your turn signals being testy I'll leave that for the experts. Of
all the Steering Box Lube I have sold no one has come back to say it leaked.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Thanks
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 11:25 AM 3/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Dear List,
>As I work my way around my BN7, I have replenished many of the the needed
fluids. I recently put some Penrite Steering Lube in the steering box.
After about a week I noticed some small blobs of lube have leaked out of
the the front of the steering box. The leak occurs where a wire (i think
its the wiring for the horn and turn signals - approx. 1/8" in diameter)
feeds into the box.
>
>How should I fix this leak?
>Could this have something to do with the fact that my turn signals are testy?
>
>
>Thanks.
>Mark
>Venice, CA
>--
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 15:23:28 EST
Subject: Re: single or double filaments
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 16:39:46 -0500
Subject: RE: steering box leak
You are on the right track but unless the problem with your turn signals
is that the switch assembly turns with the wheel the problem is probably
not related.
If you look carefully where the wire comes out of the front of the
steering box there should be a short piece of 3/8" dia tubing visible
sticking through the brass nut. If there is no tube then it is likely
that the tube has pushed back up into the steering box.
Best to remove the nut and let it slip down the cord. Under the nut
should be a brass olive, like a plumbing olive. This is a very special
olive because it has a split in it to allow it to be loosened, slid off
the tube
and re used.
If you still can't get to the tube try loosening the steering wheel
adjuster nut and sliding the steering wheel toward the front of the car,
which may allow you to gently grasp the tube and pull it out a little
from the steering box.
The idea is that the tube sticks out of the front of the box and the
olive is locked around it with the brass nut. This forms a seal to stop
the oil leaking out. (I don't know how much consideration was given to
the split in the olive, but it doesn't seem to be a problem when it is
done right).
You may have to top up that oil again. Great job for a Saturday morning,
should be finished in time to see the game.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mark lawrence
Sent: 26-Mar-03 2:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: steering box leak
Dear List,
As I work my way around my BN7, I have replenished many of the the
needed fluids. I recently put some Penrite Steering Lube in the
steering box. After about a week I noticed some small blobs of lube
have leaked out of the the front of the steering box. The leak occurs
where a wire (i think its the wiring for the horn and turn signals -
approx. 1/8" in diameter) feeds into the box.
How should I fix this leak?
Could this have something to do with the fact that my turn signals are
testy?
Thanks.
Mark
Venice, CA
--
__________________________________________________________
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 16:00:20 -0600
Subject: Dingle double filaments question answered-thanks
Brian
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 16:36:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Manuals
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 17:57:15 EST
Subject: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
Thanks for the help
John Stevens
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 23:59:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 6:32 PM
Subject: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
> List,
>
> I wanted to get your thoughts (from any of you that are willing to reply)
> about bearing installation in the rear hubs, and to post what I did to get
> one bearing to fit tightly into a hub.
>
> I have a set of hubs plus 2 extra (4 total). With 3 of the 4 hubs, the
> bearing drops right into the hub with no pressure. The 4th hub requires a
> hydraulic press for installation of the bearing into the hub. From one of
> the Healey web sites, I found a drawing and instructions to make a tool to
> install the oil seal, and had a friend make one for me. I pressed in the
> oil seal, and then the bearing in the one hub. The hub bearing spacer
> stands proud as suggested in the service manual, by 0.004 inches.
>
> I didn't feel comfortable with just the pressure of the hub bearing spacer
> holding the bearing tightly in place in the second hub. After some
thought,
> this is what I did to get a tight fit between the bearing and the hub. I
> decided to zinc plate the hub to get a tight fit. First I bead blasted
the
> hub (actually did this to all 4).
>
> I didn't want the inside diameter of the hub to get too small to properly
> press in the oil seal, so I pressed in the oil seal before plating, and
> removed the round metal spring from the inner lip (don't want to plate
> this). I placed the hub with installed oil seal in the electrolyte
solution
> of my Eastwood zinc plating kit. No problem with damage to the oil seal,
as
> the electrolyte does not attack plastic. I attached one lead from the
> battery kit to the hub, and the other to the zinc electrode, and placed
the
> zinc electrode in the acid and in the center of the hub.
>
> It took about 1/2 hour to get the proper thickness of plating. I pulled
the
> hub out of the bath about every ten minutes to check the fit, cleaning the
> acid off the hub prior to trying the fit. once I experienced interference
> between the ID of the hub and the OD of the bearing, I decided I had
enough
> zinc on the hub to have the desired fit. I reinstalled the round spring
in
> the oil seal after cleaning off all sulfuric acid from the hub. Then I
> pressed in the bearing. The hub looks great, with the zinc plating on it,
> and the bearing is held tightly in place. The hub bearing spacer stands
> proud of the hub surface, yet I need to check to see if it's within the
> 0.001 to 0.004 tolerance.
>
> That's what I did to get a tight fit between one of my rear hubs and the
> bearing. With the two extra hubs, the bearings drop in. What do you
think,
> any comments would be welcome.
>
> Cheers,
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 15:10:52 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
I got the same recommendation from Michael Salter, suggesting red Locktite.
Had I asked first, it would have saved time, yet the one hub sure looks nice
with the zinc plating.
List, be prepared for a lot of questions as my chassis comes back on
Saturday. I will be working feverishly to assemble a running within 6
weeks.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
In sunny California
-----Original Message-----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin [mailto:j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 2:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Golding, Frank
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
A drop of Locktite will do exactly the same and takes only a few seconds to
apply....
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
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From "Horn, Granville" <GHorn at ci.kent.wa.us>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 15:30:51 -0800
Subject: Steering column leaks
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 18:07:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Are you sure that none of the zinc plating sloughed off when you pushed in
the bearing? What about the possibility of it flaking off from the heat?
Just curious.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Jack,
>
> I got the same recommendation from Michael Salter, suggesting red
Locktite.
> Had I asked first, it would have saved time, yet the one hub sure looks
nice
> with the zinc plating.
>
>
> List, be prepared for a lot of questions as my chassis comes back on
> Saturday. I will be working feverishly to assemble a running within 6
> weeks.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
> In sunny California
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 19:19:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
As Micheal pointed out Loctite "red" can do this job. But the "red" comes
in different strengths from easy to impossible to remove. But beyond that they
have products that are just for this job.
Here are 2 links, one being a PDF data sheet.
http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_085_Bearing_Mount-Grade_B.pdf
http://www.loctite.com/catalog/product.html?ProductLine=660+++++++++++++++++
No financial interest, yada-yada-yada
Bob
55BN1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 19:26:38 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
There's a hole,
There's a hole,
There's a hole in the back of the shroud,
It's not a big hole,
Really just a small hole,
There's a hole in the back of the shroud...
"Man can that guy hold a note..."
(Sorry couldn't resist. I've been plugging away on this bloody computer
all day and I'm getting a little punchy.)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
Sent: 26-Mar-03 5:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
On a BJ8 where does the wiring for the rear license plate light exit the
boot? Mine is currently going through what I assume is the hole for the
center rubber buffer.
Thanks for the help
John Stevens
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: fot
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 16:55:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Your fix is ingenious! I don't see why it won't last indefinitely. As
original, the bearings should be a interference fit into the hub - a drift
or press should be needed to install them.
The only reservation I would have with the operation is that the seal may be
damaged by immersion in the acid - I was under the impression that the hub
seals are rubber, not plastic. In any case, plating the hub without the
seal would not really matter - the seal would still work if the fit were a
few thou tighter from the plating process.
Having said all of that, I would (and have) used the Locktite solution as
Michael suggested, simply because of the time and complexity involved with
the plating. Ingenious!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:32 AM
Subject: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
List,
I wanted to get your thoughts (from any of you that are willing to reply)
about bearing installation in the rear hubs, and to post what I did to get
one bearing to fit tightly into a hub.
I have a set of hubs plus 2 extra (4 total). With 3 of the 4 hubs, the
bearing drops right into the hub with no pressure. The 4th hub requires a
hydraulic press for installation of the bearing into the hub. From one of
the Healey web sites, I found a drawing and instructions to make a tool to
install the oil seal, and had a friend make one for me. I pressed in the
oil seal, and then the bearing in the one hub. The hub bearing spacer
stands proud as suggested in the service manual, by 0.004 inches.
I didn't feel comfortable with just the pressure of the hub bearing spacer
holding the bearing tightly in place in the second hub. After some thought,
this is what I did to get a tight fit between the bearing and the hub. I
decided to zinc plate the hub to get a tight fit. First I bead blasted the
hub (actually did this to all 4).
I didn't want the inside diameter of the hub to get too small to properly
press in the oil seal, so I pressed in the oil seal before plating, and
removed the round metal spring from the inner lip (don't want to plate
this). I placed the hub with installed oil seal in the electrolyte solution
of my Eastwood zinc plating kit. No problem with damage to the oil seal, as
the electrolyte does not attack plastic. I attached one lead from the
battery kit to the hub, and the other to the zinc electrode, and placed the
zinc electrode in the acid and in the center of the hub.
It took about 1/2 hour to get the proper thickness of plating. I pulled the
hub out of the bath about every ten minutes to check the fit, cleaning the
acid off the hub prior to trying the fit. once I experienced interference
between the ID of the hub and the OD of the bearing, I decided I had enough
zinc on the hub to have the desired fit. I reinstalled the round spring in
the oil seal after cleaning off all sulfuric acid from the hub. Then I
pressed in the bearing. The hub looks great, with the zinc plating on it,
and the bearing is held tightly in place. The hub bearing spacer stands
proud of the hub surface, yet I need to check to see if it's within the
0.001 to 0.004 tolerance.
That's what I did to get a tight fit between one of my rear hubs and the
bearing. With the two extra hubs, the bearings drop in. What do you think,
any comments would be welcome.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: Jet diaphragm lifespans
>Rick,
>Short life seems normal now. What color were the diaphragms? I heard that
>the green ones did better with modern gasoline. Joe Curto might have the
>green ones.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 17:22:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
There should be a hole in the shroud for a grommet, about 1 - 1/2 " below
the opening for the trunk lid. Note that this hole is slightly to the right
of the centre-line of the car ( 1 1/2" or so - I have no idea why it's not
right in the centre). The holes for the three rubber buffers are right in
the lower paert of the trunk's opening, which would not be a good place for
an electrical wire!
If I'm reading you correctly, someone may have filled the hole at some point
in the past - you should be able to see some evidence of it from inside the
trunk. Incidentally, there are two holes below this hole, straddling the
centre-line, that are used on all but the late BJ8's for the licence plate
mounting bracket. Interestingly, the holes were still in the shroud after
the change to the later, bumper mounted bracket - they simply put two bolts
in (holding nothing) and painted the car!
I would check for an inline fuse in the licence plate light wire inside the
trunk - I believe that the late BJ8's had them from the factory. The
earlier cars did not, and it was always a problem. If you're working around
there anyway, stick in a fuse if it's not already there - it gets hidden
under the armacord.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 2:57 PM
Subject: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
On a BJ8 where does the wiring for the rear license plate light exit the
boot? Mine is currently going through what I assume is the hole for the
center rubber buffer.
Thanks for the help
John Stevens
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 17:55:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering column leaks
Sounds like a pretty rare car! Could be a German market car too. I've seen
a couple of German market BJ8's with the steering column lock - I know of
one friend who simply discarded it - we thought it was causing a rattle!
I'd be curious - is the speedometer still a metric unit? It would have been
originally for any of the European market cars, as well as the safety gauge.
If I had to guess, I'd say that the steering box has been over-filled with
oil, and it has come up to the level of the slot in the column (or very
close to it). An interesting experiment would be to drive the car up a
really steep hill and see what happens - wear old clothes for this!
I know of one friend whose steering box was so overfilled that a steep
driveway caused oil to pour out of the top of the column at the hub of the
steering wheel, right into his lap! It was a rude awakening, but a good
laugh at the same time. It taught us that British cars can even leak oil
upwards!
Re-aligning the horn / turnsignal switch would involve loosening the
compression nut at the bottom of the steering box to allow the assembly to
be centred. This has to be done carefully - the slot in the stator tube can
be damaged with too much twisting force. Then simply re-tighten the nut.
You'll probably get a bit of an oil drip at the nut until it's
re-tightened - it is a compression oil seal on the low end of the tube. It
may be worth trying to re-clamp the horn / signal assembly into the steering
wheel hub to try and fix this as a first step.
Hope this helps a bit. Ain't it fun?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Horn, Granville" <ghorn@ci.kent.wa.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 3:30 PM
Subject: Steering column leaks
List,
I'm the latest owner of a 63' BJ7 originally made for either the Swedish or
French market. Instead of having door locks, it has a steering column lock
that is located adjacent, but part of the column, just below the "dash". On
two occasions when the weather is warm (75-80) I've found oil dripping from
the key slot onto my leg. From the orientation of the trafficatior and horn
button, clockwise 90 degrees, I think someone has worked on the column for
whatever reason. Maybe to fix the oil leak. Is the column filled with oil,
or is the oil working its way up the column somehow? Any input would be
helpful.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 20:11:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering column leaks
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 21:19:29 -0500
Subject: 16th Annual Michiana Brits Car Show Revisited
Yes it's me again.....I posted the 16th Annual Michiana Brits event to the
lists last week, but I forgot to add the date to my posting. After receiving
numerous responses regarding this oversight, I thought I'd better repost the
date before I have hundreds of angry British car enthusiasts parked at my
doorstep. If you do stop by, be sure to knock on the garage door, where you'll
hear a lot of banging and clanging going on.....
The date is Sunday, June 8, 2003, just west of South Bend, Indiana at Bendix
Woods County Park. Starting gates open at 10:00 AM
More information can be obtained at:
www.michianabrits.com or http://users.arczip.com/zntech/michianabrits.html
Much thanks, and sorry for my lack of responsibility.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: A British Car Fan
To: austrheamgafun@arczip.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: 16th Annual Michiana Brits Car Show
you need to tell us times & dates & location
Re: 16th Annual Michiana Brits * British Car Show (www.michianabrits.com)
For those of you who are continuing to drive your British cars after British
Car Week and are looking for something fun to do with other British car fans,
please stop by and visit the 16th Annual Michiana Brits British Car Show. This
years event takes place at beautiful Bendix Woods County Park, which is
located approximately 14 miles west of downtown South Bend, Indiana on Timothy
Road, just off of State Road 2.
We will have access to the famous Studebaker proving grounds racetrack where
we will be allowed to take some "controlled" laps around the track. Bosch
Corporation currently owns the facility, and is graciously permitting us to
use it on this fun-filled day. Other attractions include awards, vendors, two
food tickets with each registration, 200 acres of beautiful park grounds with
hiking trails and playground for the kids.
MG is the featured marque this year, and British motorcycles are welcome!
For more information and a printable registration form, please go to the web
site listed below.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/michianabrits.html
Thanks!
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 21:47:23 EST
Subject: June 1st rallye/picnic
The Second Annual celebration of British Car Week in Southern Maryland will
take place at Little Cove Farm in Saint Leonard, MD. on Sunday, June 1st,
2003. We again invite the entire British Car community to take a pleasant
drive in the lovely Southern Maryland countryside and join us for a relaxed,
free-form picnic with other LBC (Little British Car) owners and their
families. And on your way down you're also welcome to participate in "The
Great Patuxent Valley Rallye" which will start that morning near Upper
Marlboro, MD. and end at the farm front gate.
The main event is a picnic at the farm, and all are invited to pack family
and/or pets aboard, bring whatever they may want to eat, drink and play with,
and come out for a day of fun and fellowship with others who enjoy driving
and owning vintage vehicles. We learned a lot from last year's inaugural
event, and this year we will be setting up large tents and picnic tables to
provide shade and comfortable seating. We'll also have more to do and enjoy:
Live music, hayrides, nature walks, etc. If you're coming directly to the
picnic, arrive anytime after 10:00 A.M.
The rallye will be of the "Observation" type--there are no distances to
measure, average speeds to maintain or the like. Rather, you'll be given a
set of simple driving instructions and asked to supply answers to questions
relating to what you will see along the 50-mile course. All you need to
bring is a pencil and a sense of humor--you can even run it without a
navigator, but having someone to help you find the answers will be more fun.
The rallye starts at 10:00 AM SHARP and will take about 1-1/2 hours to run on
rural roads along the shores of the Patuxent River in Southern Maryland's
lovely countryside. The course ends at our farm and awards will be
presented at the picnic during the afternoon.
Last year we had about 65 cars--This year we are expecting many more, and you
can help make it so: Pass the word along to your friends and fellow car-club
members, and have this event placed on your club's calendar and in its
newsletter: The web address for this page is: <A HREF="http:///";>
www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/</A>
TO REACH THE PICNIC: Saint Leonard, MD. is about midway between Prince
Frederick and Solomons Island on Route 4 (Less than an hour from the Capital
Beltway or Annapolis). Turn west off of Route 4 at Parran Road, go about 1
mile to a T-intersection at Mackall Road, turn left and go 2 miles to Garrity
Road, turn left and go 1/4 mile to 2455 Garrity Road--just follow the British
flags!
TO REACH THE RALLYE: From Route 4 and US 301 (Near Upper Marlboro) go south
on 301 about 1/10 mile and enter the Giant Supermarket parking lot (east
side of 301). The Driver's Meeting will commence at 10:00 AM and cars will
start immediately thereafter. Driving the rallye will take about an hour and
a half and the course ends at the farm--we guarantee that you can't get lost!
We look forward to seeing you--Michael and Mary Oritt. For further
information email us at: <A HREF="http:///";>awgertoo@aol.com</A><A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/contactus.htm";> </A>
This page was last updated on: January 16th, 2003. Check for updates as the
event date approaches.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 18:48:22 -0800
Subject: Re: steering box leak
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'mark lawrence'" <mlawrence@rome.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: steering box leak
> Hi Mark,
>
> You are on the right track but unless the problem with your turn signals
> is that the switch assembly turns with the wheel the problem is probably
> not related.
> If you look carefully where the wire comes out of the front of the
> steering box there should be a short piece of 3/8" dia tubing visible
> sticking through the brass nut. If there is no tube then it is likely
> that the tube has pushed back up into the steering box.
> Best to remove the nut and let it slip down the cord. Under the nut
> should be a brass olive, like a plumbing olive. This is a very special
> olive because it has a split in it to allow it to be loosened, slid off
> the tube
> and re used.
> If you still can't get to the tube try loosening the steering wheel
> adjuster nut and sliding the steering wheel toward the front of the car,
> which may allow you to gently grasp the tube and pull it out a little
> from the steering box.
> The idea is that the tube sticks out of the front of the box and the
> olive is locked around it with the brass nut. This forms a seal to stop
> the oil leaking out. (I don't know how much consideration was given to
> the split in the olive, but it doesn't seem to be a problem when it is
> done right).
>
> You may have to top up that oil again. Great job for a Saturday morning,
> should be finished in time to see the game.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 22:30:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
> Hi John,
>
> There's a hole,
> There's a hole,
> There's a hole in the back of the shroud,
> It's not a big hole,
> Really just a small hole,
> There's a hole in the back of the shroud...
>
> "Man can that guy hold a note..."
>
> (Sorry couldn't resist. I've been plugging away on this bloody computer
> all day and I'm getting a little punchy.)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
> Sent: 26-Mar-03 5:57 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
>
> On a BJ8 where does the wiring for the rear license plate light exit the
>
> boot? Mine is currently going through what I assume is the hole for the
> center rubber buffer.
>
> Thanks for the help
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 20:36:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
You don't know Michael, I do. Forget it!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; <johnbs7257@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
A Canadian Idol in the making.
> Hi John,
>
> There's a hole,
> There's a hole,
> There's a hole in the back of the shroud,
> It's not a big hole,
> Really just a small hole,
> There's a hole in the back of the shroud...
>
> "Man can that guy hold a note..."
>
> (Sorry couldn't resist. I've been plugging away on this bloody computer
> all day and I'm getting a little punchy.)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of JohnbS7257@aol.com
> Sent: 26-Mar-03 5:57 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
>
> On a BJ8 where does the wiring for the rear license plate light exit the
>
> boot? Mine is currently going through what I assume is the hole for the
> center rubber buffer.
>
> Thanks for the help
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 00:26:21 -0800
Subject: Re: engine
I was dealing with the firing order just the other day. Seems like is was
1,5,3,6,2,4. You can confirm this by looking at the wires exiting the dist
cap. Remember that the rotor will turn counterclockwise as viewed from the
top.
Keith Pennell
> Hi everyone,
> Am helping put a reassembled, rebuilt engine into a BJ8. My 2 questions
are:
> 1.. How do you circulate the oil throughout before you start it. The
book
> says to put oil in the oil filter and then run but I have a new spin on
that
> is sideways and I would like to gt some oil in there first.
> 2.. What is the fireing order for the plugs? Front to back or back to
> front?
> Any info would be greatly appreciated because I'd like to do a road test
asap
> because the weather is getting better with each day.
> I appreciate it,
> Thank you,
> Guy G. 1963 BJ7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 00:27:13 EST
Subject: Re: Steering column leaks
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 21:57:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: fuel tank strap
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 22:10:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: steering box leak
I believe the correct term for this particular
situation is FUBAR. FUBAR will typically lead to oil
leaks on british cars.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
> Here is another source of oil leaking from the
> "Steering Gear Box".
> On the last 2 restorations I have done, some PO
> (IDIOT) ran the car w/ the
> mounting bolts for the LF shock stripped. This let
> the shock lay back, and
> the top screw/bolt on the inner side chewed a hole
> in the steering column.
> When the oil is filled to the correct level, the oil
> runs out of the hole in
> the steering column. The oil runs down the column,
> and appears to be
> coming from the front of the gear box.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter"
> <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> To: "'mark lawrence'" <mlawrence@rome.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 1:39 PM
> Subject: RE: steering box leak
>
>
> > Hi Mark,
> >
> > You are on the right track but unless the problem
> with your turn signals
> > is that the switch assembly turns with the wheel
> the problem is probably
> > not related.
> > If you look carefully where the wire comes out of
> the front of the
> > steering box there should be a short piece of 3/8"
> dia tubing visible
> > sticking through the brass nut. If there is no
> tube then it is likely
> > that the tube has pushed back up into the steering
> box.
> > Best to remove the nut and let it slip down the
> cord. Under the nut
> > should be a brass olive, like a plumbing olive.
> This is a very special
> > olive because it has a split in it to allow it to
> be loosened, slid off
> > the tube
> > and re used.
> > If you still can't get to the tube try loosening
> the steering wheel
> > adjuster nut and sliding the steering wheel toward
> the front of the car,
> > which may allow you to gently grasp the tube and
> pull it out a little
> > from the steering box.
> > The idea is that the tube sticks out of the front
> of the box and the
> > olive is locked around it with the brass nut. This
> forms a seal to stop
> > the oil leaking out. (I don't know how much
> consideration was given to
> > the split in the olive, but it doesn't seem to be
> a problem when it is
> > done right).
> >
> > You may have to top up that oil again. Great job
> for a Saturday morning,
> > should be finished in time to see the game.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 22:53:53 -0800
Subject: Kid's New Sprite
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 06:20:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Kid's New Sprite
Mike,
Yes, there's a list for Sprites and Midgets.
There's a couple ways to subscribe.
1) Send an email to majordomo@autox.team.net with an empty subject line and
with just the text "subscribe sprigets" in the body (without the quotes).
2) Goto http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool and enter your email address and
sprigets in the list box. Click Go and it will display all the lists
avaialable to you. Click on the sprigets link to bring up the details.
There's also digest and moderated versions, sprigets-digest and sprigets-mod.
And then there's team-thicko :)
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Allen S. Hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 07:12:51 -0600
Subject: gas tanks
Al
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 07:13:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Kid's New Sprite
;)
WST
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 5:21 AM
To: michael e gougeon
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Kid's New Sprite
michael e gougeon wrote:
>
> Is there a separate Sprite List?? I hear very little here on Sprites and
> my experience on this list has been so positive that I was hoping that my
> son would have a shot at something similar that would zero in on the
> little cars.
> Mike Gougeon
> 55BN2
>
Mike,
Yes, there's a list for Sprites and Midgets.
There's a couple ways to subscribe.
1) Send an email to majordomo@autox.team.net with an empty subject line and
with just the text "subscribe sprigets" in the body (without the quotes).
2) Goto http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool and enter your email address
and sprigets in the list box. Click Go and it will display all the lists
avaialable to you. Click on the sprigets link to bring up the details.
There's also digest and moderated versions, sprigets-digest and
sprigets-mod. And then there's team-thicko :)
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 08:43:36 -0500
Subject: Re: gas tanks
My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to pondering what a
drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts might
look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
--
John Miller
Hotlanta
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 08:49:28 -0600
Subject: RE: gas tanks
;)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 7:44 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: gas tanks
On Thursday, March 27, 2003 08:12, Allen S. Hodder wrote:
> Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS MOTORS
> will not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part of
> the tank is too far back.
My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to pondering what
a
drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts might
look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
--
John Miller
Hotlanta
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 08:18:18 -0700
Subject: Christmas in March - BJ8 Resto Progress
Way fun... still hoping for Memorial Day... but that depends on the final
paint progress which is slow..
All for now.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 07:21:35 -0800
Subject: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
I bought my BJ8 almost 20 years ago, at the tail end of the "good" old days,
when the AHCUSA operated a parts yard where volunteers cannibalized
junk cars for serviceable parts. I was delighted to discover suppliers like M,
VB and HHH existed, since I was a novice owner and just wanted to keep
my car running ("originality" was not much of an issue, but I considered it).
M, VB and HHH put the Club "chop shop" out of business, much to the
delight of all concerned (possibly saving some cars that would not have
been worth saving prior to the recent price runups).
Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
best parts they can. Witness the recent king pin problem where, apparently,
M made a sincere effort both to provide replacement parts and even a
credit towards installation (don't forget the Healey "afficionado" who wanted
$500 to look through his records). This compares very favorably with large
companies like VW, who shipped cars with defective coil packs and was
extremely "reluctant" to acknowledge--much less replace--the parts. Don't
forget the Ford/Firestone fiasco, either.
I believe M--and probably the others--operate on a shoestring. I think M
was close to going out of business a few years ago, but was able to stay
viable thanks to offering Miata--and now, apparently, Escape--parts and
after-market components. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the Miata
and other businesses all but subsidize the BC business. Even operating with
a slim margin, the M sales people have always been helpful and generally
friendly when I call them, and even with (potential) financial problems they
have continued to produce a good catalog and an entertaining and informative
newsletter (for FREE). I bought parts on sale (brake rotors, for example,
cheaper
than I can get them for my Ranger) online on Sunday and had the parts on
Wednesday. I wasn't in a hurry, but if I'd needed them for a trip the
following
weekend I would have been ecstatic.
Remember also the story I related about a local BC retailer/salvager who
told me about a genuine BMC Big Healey bumper he had for sale for years
and only got complaints about the cost (about $250, if I recall). He said his
(potential) customers would say "I can get it for $100 less at M." I suspect
the same people who won't pay for original quality are some of those who
complain most bitterly about the "quality" of the cheaper replacements. Also,
there is at least one Healey (or shop) owner owner who likes to order two
types of brake slave cylinders for 100s--one very expensive and one not so
expensive--exchange the parts and then return the cheap cylinder in the
expensive cylinder box for the larger refund. So my experience is that the
suppliers--M, VB, HHH, etc.--are more credible and honest than some of
us owners.
Occasionally, I'm disappointed in the quality of the parts but usually they're
non-critical stuff that doesn't affect the safety or reliability of the car
(keep in
mind I don't think any of the "modern" auto makers have produced any model
of car that hasn't required some sort of recall sooner or later).
I have no financial interest in any of these companies, but I'm glad these
companies exist, and hope they prosper. If any reps are on the List please
accept my gratitude.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> On Thursday, March 27, 2003 08:12, Allen S. Hodder wrote:
> > Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS MOTORS
> > will not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part of
> > the tank is too far back.
>
> My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to pondering what
>a
> drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts might
> look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
> --
> John Miller
> Hotlanta
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 07:35:45 -0800
Subject: RE: gas tanks
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from
> MOSS MOTORS will
> not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part
> of the tank
> is too far back.
>
> Al
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 09:41:10 -0600
Subject: 100-4 air conditioner question
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:31:00 EST
Subject: Re: gas tanks
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 3/27/03 5:14:17, ash173@frontiernet.net writes:
<< Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS MOTORS
will
not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part of the tank
is too far back.
Al
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:39:55 -0500
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
I second everything you said, and you said it well. THANK GOODNESS for
Moss Motors, Victoria British, Hemphill's Healey Haven, Healey Surgeons,
etc., etc. It's true that some of their parts do not always meet the high
standards that we would wish for, but I'd much rather complain about that
than a complete lack of parts availability, or being forced to cannabilize
cars to keep ours on the road.
Like they say in Nebraska, "Don't curse farmers with your mouth full."
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>To: John Miller <healeys@n4vu.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 07:21:35 -0800
>
>Before we embark on yet another M-, VB-, HHH-, etc.-bashing thread
>I'd like to add my $0.02.
>
>I bought my BJ8 almost 20 years ago, at the tail end of the "good" old
>days,
>when the AHCUSA operated a parts yard where volunteers cannibalized
>junk cars for serviceable parts. I was delighted to discover suppliers
>like M,
>VB and HHH existed, since I was a novice owner and just wanted to keep
>my car running ("originality" was not much of an issue, but I considered
>it).
>M, VB and HHH put the Club "chop shop" out of business, much to the
>delight of all concerned (possibly saving some cars that would not have
>been worth saving prior to the recent price runups).
>
>Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
>best parts they can. Witness the recent king pin problem where,
>apparently,
>M made a sincere effort both to provide replacement parts and even a
>credit towards installation (don't forget the Healey "afficionado" who
>wanted
>$500 to look through his records). This compares very favorably with large
>companies like VW, who shipped cars with defective coil packs and was
>extremely "reluctant" to acknowledge--much less replace--the parts. Don't
>forget the Ford/Firestone fiasco, either.
>
>I believe M--and probably the others--operate on a shoestring. I think M
>was close to going out of business a few years ago, but was able to stay
>viable thanks to offering Miata--and now, apparently, Escape--parts and
>after-market components. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the Miata
>and other businesses all but subsidize the BC business. Even operating
>with
>a slim margin, the M sales people have always been helpful and generally
>friendly when I call them, and even with (potential) financial problems
>they
>have continued to produce a good catalog and an entertaining and
>informative
>newsletter (for FREE). I bought parts on sale (brake rotors, for example,
>cheaper
>than I can get them for my Ranger) online on Sunday and had the parts on
>Wednesday. I wasn't in a hurry, but if I'd needed them for a trip the
>following
>weekend I would have been ecstatic.
>
>Remember also the story I related about a local BC retailer/salvager who
>told me about a genuine BMC Big Healey bumper he had for sale for years
>and only got complaints about the cost (about $250, if I recall). He said
>his
>(potential) customers would say "I can get it for $100 less at M." I
>suspect
>the same people who won't pay for original quality are some of those who
>complain most bitterly about the "quality" of the cheaper replacements.
>Also,
>there is at least one Healey (or shop) owner owner who likes to order two
>types of brake slave cylinders for 100s--one very expensive and one not so
>expensive--exchange the parts and then return the cheap cylinder in the
>expensive cylinder box for the larger refund. So my experience is that the
>suppliers--M, VB, HHH, etc.--are more credible and honest than some of
>us owners.
>
>Occasionally, I'm disappointed in the quality of the parts but usually
>they're
>non-critical stuff that doesn't affect the safety or reliability of the car
>(keep in
>mind I don't think any of the "modern" auto makers have produced any model
>of car that hasn't required some sort of recall sooner or later).
>
>I have no financial interest in any of these companies, but I'm glad these
>companies exist, and hope they prosper. If any reps are on the List please
>accept my gratitude.
>
>
>bs
>
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
>
>
> > On Thursday, March 27, 2003 08:12, Allen S. Hodder wrote:
> > > Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS
>MOTORS
> > > will not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part
>of
> > > the tank is too far back.
> >
> > My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to pondering
>what a
> > drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts
>might
> > look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
> > --
> > John Miller
> > Hotlanta
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:45:57 -0500
Subject: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
Looking for a hand to get a BT7 from Colorado to Oregon. Here are the
details: we depart Portland with a truck and trailer on Sunday, April 6, and
arrive in Colorado the next day. We load one Healey onto the trailer, and
you -- the volunteer driver -- drive a second Healey (a BT7 with hardtop)
back to Portland in convoy with the truck and trailer, arriving in Portland
on Wednesday the 9th. You get major "seat time" in a big Healey. Apply
within.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:55:29 -0500
Subject: RE: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
Hear, hear Bobs comment.
Having been in the parts and service business for 23 years and watched
many competitors come and go I can confirm that this is not a lucrative
business and that the long time players are a dedicated and forbearing
bunch.
That makes the total income $0.04 from this thread.. I think that is
more than we took in in the second week of Feb. this year!!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 27-Mar-03 10:22 AM
To: John Miller; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
Before we embark on yet another M-, VB-, HHH-, etc.-bashing thread
I'd like to add my $0.02.
I bought my BJ8 almost 20 years ago, at the tail end of the "good" old
days,
when the AHCUSA operated a parts yard where volunteers cannibalized
junk cars for serviceable parts. I was delighted to discover suppliers
like M,
VB and HHH existed, since I was a novice owner and just wanted to keep
my car running ("originality" was not much of an issue, but I considered
it).
M, VB and HHH put the Club "chop shop" out of business, much to the
delight of all concerned (possibly saving some cars that would not have
been worth saving prior to the recent price runups).
Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
best parts they can. Witness the recent king pin problem where,
apparently,
M made a sincere effort both to provide replacement parts and even a
credit towards installation (don't forget the Healey "afficionado" who
wanted
$500 to look through his records). This compares very favorably with
large
companies like VW, who shipped cars with defective coil packs and was
extremely "reluctant" to acknowledge--much less replace--the parts.
Don't
forget the Ford/Firestone fiasco, either.
I believe M--and probably the others--operate on a shoestring. I think
M
was close to going out of business a few years ago, but was able to stay
viable thanks to offering Miata--and now, apparently, Escape--parts and
after-market components. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the
Miata
and other businesses all but subsidize the BC business. Even operating
with
a slim margin, the M sales people have always been helpful and generally
friendly when I call them, and even with (potential) financial problems
they
have continued to produce a good catalog and an entertaining and
informative
newsletter (for FREE). I bought parts on sale (brake rotors, for
example, cheaper
than I can get them for my Ranger) online on Sunday and had the parts on
Wednesday. I wasn't in a hurry, but if I'd needed them for a trip the
following
weekend I would have been ecstatic.
Remember also the story I related about a local BC retailer/salvager who
told me about a genuine BMC Big Healey bumper he had for sale for years
and only got complaints about the cost (about $250, if I recall). He
said his
(potential) customers would say "I can get it for $100 less at M." I
suspect
the same people who won't pay for original quality are some of those who
complain most bitterly about the "quality" of the cheaper replacements.
Also,
there is at least one Healey (or shop) owner owner who likes to order
two
types of brake slave cylinders for 100s--one very expensive and one not
so
expensive--exchange the parts and then return the cheap cylinder in the
expensive cylinder box for the larger refund. So my experience is that
the
suppliers--M, VB, HHH, etc.--are more credible and honest than some of
us owners.
Occasionally, I'm disappointed in the quality of the parts but usually
they're
non-critical stuff that doesn't affect the safety or reliability of the
car (keep in
mind I don't think any of the "modern" auto makers have produced any
model
of car that hasn't required some sort of recall sooner or later).
I have no financial interest in any of these companies, but I'm glad
these
companies exist, and hope they prosper. If any reps are on the List
please
accept my gratitude.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> On Thursday, March 27, 2003 08:12, Allen S. Hodder wrote:
> > Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS
MOTORS
> > will not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower
part of
> > the tank is too far back.
>
> My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to
pondering what a
> drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts
might
> look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
> --
> John Miller
> Hotlanta
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 09:02:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
These are good questions. There appears to be no chips or shedding of zinc
from pressing the bearing in. As far as flaking off from heat, I won't be
able to report on this until after driving the car. If I run into any
problems with this hub, I will report back at that time.
Cheers,
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Masucci [mailto:sooch@houston.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 4:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Frank,
Are you sure that none of the zinc plating sloughed off when you pushed in
the bearing? What about the possibility of it flaking off from the heat?
Just curious.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Jack,
>
> I got the same recommendation from Michael Salter, suggesting red
Locktite.
> Had I asked first, it would have saved time, yet the one hub sure looks
nice
> with the zinc plating.
>
>
> List, be prepared for a lot of questions as my chassis comes back on
> Saturday. I will be working feverishly to assemble a running within 6
> weeks.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
> In sunny California
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 11:29:53 -0600
Subject: M, VB, HHH
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 09:37:49 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Thank you for the complement on ingenuity, yet as you suggest and as the
others on the list have said, Locktite (red) or some other product for this
application would have been simpler, and quicker (next time).
The oil seal appears to be un-damaged by the electrolyte acid solution. I
will perform an experiment with an old oil seal, and see if it will break
down in different solutions, and report back to the list with my findings.
I know the answer if it's in a strong solvent such as carburetor cleaner, or
acetone, I've done this before, and the part will get soft, tacky, and
eventually fall apart. I did not see any of this with the sulfuric acid.
It's fairly dilute, not sure of the concentration, but I do at times get it
on my hands when plucking parts out of the solution after plating with no
ill effects to my hands.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 4:56 PM
To: Golding, Frank
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Frank:
Your fix is ingenious! I don't see why it won't last indefinitely. As
original, the bearings should be a interference fit into the hub - a drift
or press should be needed to install them.
The only reservation I would have with the operation is that the seal may be
damaged by immersion in the acid - I was under the impression that the hub
seals are rubber, not plastic. In any case, plating the hub without the
seal would not really matter - the seal would still work if the fit were a
few thou tighter from the plating process.
Having said all of that, I would (and have) used the Locktite solution as
Michael suggested, simply because of the time and complexity involved with
the plating. Ingenious!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 13:56:00 EST
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
> Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
> best parts they can. Witness the recent king pin problem where,
> apparently,
> M made a sincere effort both to provide replacement parts and even a
> credit towards installation (don't forget the Healey "afficionado" who
> wanted
> $500 to look through his records).
As the person who almost got stuck by that grasping P.O. I would also like to
sing Moss' praises. Yes, they were the ones (and not the only ones) who sold
the bad kingpins to the fellow who restored what was to become my wife's BN7,
but they had never done business with me and yet were quick to step up to the
plate. I am awaiting the replacement pins and have been assured by Moss's
wholesale representative, Kelvin Dowd, that once I return the defective pins
I will receive a $300 check for my labors.
While some of the parts offered us are sometimes less than perfect, consider
the alternatives. I'm sure there are several listers who can share what it
was like ten or twenty years ago when such resources were simply not
available. Because of companies such as Moss and Victoria British we are
able to easily own, fix and enjoy our cars knowing that most parts are
readily available nationwide. When I am on the road I carry the likely spare
parts, but I also carry a Moss catalogue...
NO affiliations, etc--just a satisfied customer with reasonable expectations.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 10:58:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
> Hi all,
>
> Looking for a hand to get a BT7 from Colorado to Oregon. Here are the
> details: we depart Portland with a truck and trailer on Sunday, April 6,
and
> arrive in Colorado the next day. We load one Healey onto the trailer, and
> you -- the volunteer driver -- drive a second Healey (a BT7 with hardtop)
> back to Portland in convoy with the truck and trailer, arriving in
Portland
> on Wednesday the 9th. You get major "seat time" in a big Healey. Apply
> within.
>
> Reid
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:09:34 -0800
Subject: Healey horns
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 14:22:06 EST
Subject: Re: Jet diaphragm lifespans
Rick
San Diego
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 16:18:14 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring Route for rear license plate light
John Stevens
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 17:02:31 -0500
Subject: Autocross help.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:17:59 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
I'll be there Reid.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps. Please send the return air ticket to my home address.
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 3:46 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
Hi all,
Looking for a hand to get a BT7 from Colorado to Oregon. Here are the
details: we depart Portland with a truck and trailer on Sunday, April 6, and
arrive in Colorado the next day. We load one Healey onto the trailer, and
you -- the volunteer driver -- drive a second Healey (a BT7 with hardtop)
back to Portland in convoy with the truck and trailer, arriving in Portland
on Wednesday the 9th. You get major "seat time" in a big Healey. Apply
within.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 14:29:57 -0800
Subject: Healey Horns Question #2
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 22:53:39 -0000
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 10:29 PM
Subject: Healey Horns Question #2
> Dear Forum-
> While on the topic of Healey Horns... does anyone know where I can have my
> Lucas Horns restored? Neither of the horns out of my 1960 BT7 work. They
> look pretty but won't make a peep.
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:11:11 EST
Subject: Re: Autocross help.
> Gentlemen. As a member of the AHCA NE region I would like to stage an
> autocross this July here on the coast of Maine. I have managed to put
> together everything I need but could use some help on the course layout.
> It's been thirty years since I ran a course and my memory isn't what it
> used
> to be so if any of you know of a book or on-line source for help in course
> design I would be forever in your debt. Cheers,
James--
Why don't you register for Conclave which is happening this June 25-July 1 in
DC, and be sure to sign up for the Speed Events. We are having a full day of
racing at Summit Point: A long 1.1 mile event on the Jefferson Circuit in
the morning and a shorter, tighter event in the afternoon in an adjacent
parking area.
I've been in touch with Charlie Krut of the NE Region AHC and he has kindly
offered the services of your membership to assist at corners, etc. when they
are not themselves racing. So if you attend you'll get experience in both
driving and working an event, which should help you in laying out your own!
BTW, we have about 60 cars already signed up for the Speed Events, and
Registrations are coming in at a good rate.
Hope to see you then.
Best--Michael Oritt, Capital Area AHC (Host Club )
PS--Bring a crash helmet if you can....
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 15:10:57 -0800
Subject: BASHING (Moss, Vic Brit, HHH, etc.)
Lest we older folks,
(who were around 36 to 50 years ago and driving Healeys
off show room floors/used car lots and the newer folks who
purchased a 36 to 50 year old Healey yesterday),
forgot or don't know, the Austin Healey Motorcar was hand
built and hand fit.
The story as I recall, is, if a (OEM) wing, bonnet, boot lid,
door, GAS TANK, etc didn't fit to production standard, the
production line folks (Donald and Geoffrey included) would search
stock for a part that fit or make it fit.
Don't think for a moment these cars, are or were cookie cutter cars,
numerous variables back then and more now.
As for the BJ8 GAS TANK fit/non-fit bashing, I wonder if John
(the cartoonist) took the time to inquire this list (don't remember
inquiry), make inquiry to Moss Motors technical staff, or consult
the Moss Motors catalog exploded view of the fuel system on page
94' of my catalog.
Possible problem with John's gas tank fit is lack of the required
"sealing rubber" gasket. See exploded view on page 94, item #27.
(Over the years, I have found the exploded views to be quite helpful
in answering fit/non fit questions that I may have had. Yep, there it is,
I need another part for the fix, oh, that's how it goes together, etc. etc.)
The above problem solving method has always answered my questions,
remember, before you bash,
"If You don't ask the question, You don't get the answer".
MAY IT BE NOTED,
My past (ignorance) and present (less ignorant) experiences
with Moss Motors, et al. over numerous years of dealing
with them, has been (without exception) very positive, responsive
and satisfying. I can't understand how it would be different for
others. My guess is, some people carry honey in their pockets
and others carry lemons.
RECENT EXAMPLE,
Approximately two years (3,000 mi) ago, I purchased a (on sale)
set of five mini-lite replica center lock wheels from Victoria British.
While doing other work on the car I decided to check the eight
center lock mounting bolts on each wheel.
(Nasty Boys have a habit of loosening things on 36 to 50 year old
Healeys.)
I found a few nuts on each wheel would tighten with 35 lbs/ft torque
applied and one bolt with stripped threads.
Upon removing the nut and checking the bolt with stripped threads,
I found only four (4) threads into the nut, the remaining seven nuts were
removed and found the same to exist.
I am not a Design Engineer nor Metallurgist, but my years of experience,
(playing cars) tell me that a 3/8in X 24thread, grade 5, bolt needs
more than four threads engaging the nut for sufficient fastening.
Especially if the nut has 10 thread capacity
Victoria British was contacted (for a heads up) they were very receptive
to my input and would pass the info onto their product support people.
No response from them yet. (This is not a Bash)
I then contacted Moss Motors (as they sell the same wheels) and was
put in contact with Michael Grant. Michael spent considerable time with
me, expressing his concern, asking numerous questions and he would
look into my heads up info.
Several phone calls and e-mails later from Michael, with (extensive) Moss
internal memos attached, keeping me informed on the progress
of investigation into this matter (Michael himself inspecting
wheels in stock) it was determined 6 to 7 threads exist on
their wheels which is sufficient.
It appears the MFG Torque Spec is 36/38 lbs/ft, and Loctite.
CAN IT GET ANY BETTER THAN THIS FROM A NON
PATRONIZED, DIDN'T MAKE A DIME RETAILER ???
When time permits, my inspection of the other wheels will
continue and assume Moss will also keep it on a front burner.
My opinion for fix is,
1. If you check torque and get nut movement (Mfg Loctite is
now disturbed and not effective) remove nut, check thread
contact for 6 to 7 threads, re-torque to 36/38 lbs/ft with new
Loctite.
2. If you find insufficient thread contact (4 threads) replace
existing (3/8"X24tX2") bolt with 2 1/4" bolt and flat washers
of sufficient thickness to expose 6 to 7 threads, re-torque with
Loctite.
JUST THINK FOR A MOMENT,
WHERE WOULD WE ALL BE TODAY IF NOT FOR
DONALD, GEOFFREY, MOSS, VB, HHH, et al ????
There is no intent to bash anyone here, just a Very Happy,
Old Camper trying to get along, ala Rodney King.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
59/60BN7 (NastyBoy 302 Ford)
Playing with Healeys since July 28, 1961
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 7:21 AM
Subject: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
> Before we embark on yet another M-, VB-, HHH-, etc.-bashing thread
> I'd like to add my $0.02.
>
> I bought my BJ8 almost 20 years ago, at the tail end of the "good" old
days,
> when the AHCUSA operated a parts yard where volunteers cannibalized
> junk cars for serviceable parts. I was delighted to discover suppliers
like M,
> VB and HHH existed, since I was a novice owner and just wanted to keep
> my car running ("originality" was not much of an issue, but I considered
it).
> M, VB and HHH put the Club "chop shop" out of business, much to the
> delight of all concerned (possibly saving some cars that would not have
> been worth saving prior to the recent price runups).
>
> Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
> best parts they can. Witness the recent king pin problem where,
apparently,
> M made a sincere effort both to provide replacement parts and even a
> credit towards installation (don't forget the Healey "afficionado" who
wanted
> $500 to look through his records). This compares very favorably with
large
> companies like VW, who shipped cars with defective coil packs and was
> extremely "reluctant" to acknowledge--much less replace--the parts. Don't
> forget the Ford/Firestone fiasco, either.
>
> I believe M--and probably the others--operate on a shoestring. I think M
> was close to going out of business a few years ago, but was able to stay
> viable thanks to offering Miata--and now, apparently, Escape--parts and
> after-market components. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the Miata
> and other businesses all but subsidize the BC business. Even operating
with
> a slim margin, the M sales people have always been helpful and generally
> friendly when I call them, and even with (potential) financial problems
they
> have continued to produce a good catalog and an entertaining and
informative
> newsletter (for FREE). I bought parts on sale (brake rotors, for example,
cheaper
> than I can get them for my Ranger) online on Sunday and had the parts on
> Wednesday. I wasn't in a hurry, but if I'd needed them for a trip the
following
> weekend I would have been ecstatic.
>
> Remember also the story I related about a local BC retailer/salvager who
> told me about a genuine BMC Big Healey bumper he had for sale for years
> and only got complaints about the cost (about $250, if I recall). He said
his
> (potential) customers would say "I can get it for $100 less at M." I
suspect
> the same people who won't pay for original quality are some of those who
> complain most bitterly about the "quality" of the cheaper replacements.
Also,
> there is at least one Healey (or shop) owner owner who likes to order two
> types of brake slave cylinders for 100s--one very expensive and one not so
> expensive--exchange the parts and then return the cheap cylinder in the
> expensive cylinder box for the larger refund. So my experience is that
the
> suppliers--M, VB, HHH, etc.--are more credible and honest than some of
> us owners.
>
> Occasionally, I'm disappointed in the quality of the parts but usually
they're
> non-critical stuff that doesn't affect the safety or reliability of the
car (keep in
> mind I don't think any of the "modern" auto makers have produced any model
> of car that hasn't required some sort of recall sooner or later).
>
> I have no financial interest in any of these companies, but I'm glad these
> companies exist, and hope they prosper. If any reps are on the List
please
> accept my gratitude.
>
>
> bs
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> > On Thursday, March 27, 2003 08:12, Allen S. Hodder wrote:
> > > Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I bought from MOSS
MOTORS
> > > will not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The beveled lower part
of
> > > the tank is too far back.
> >
> > My apologies to the list, but that pushed me over the edge to pondering
what a
> > drawing of a "Healey" built up entirely from M?ss replacement parts
might
> > look like. Oh, to be a cartoonist.
> > --
> > John Miller
> > Hotlanta
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:38:39 -0500
Subject: Re: not BASHING (Moss, Vic Brit, HHH, etc.)
Pay attention, Kirk. I *am* one of those older folk (retired, '64 BJ8 in
'65), and it wasn't my gas tank. :-)
It just tickled my funny bone, is all, that every other time Moss is mentioned
on here, it's in the context of something that doesn't fit. That led to an
amusing mental image that I managed totally to fail to communicate.
I take a back seat to no man (or woman) in my appreciation for Moss and what
their presence has done for the Healey community. But if we can't poke a
little fun now and then, we're taking ourselves far too seriously.
HOWEVER, if I've managed to get some of the erstwhile Moss bashers to band
together and defend Moss, then my work here is done.
<bows, exits stage left>
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:48:38 EST
Subject: Re: BASHING (Moss, Vic Brit, HHH, etc.)
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 3/27/03 7:20:55 PM, 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:
<<JUST THINK FOR A MOMENT,
WHERE WOULD WE ALL BE TODAY IF NOT FOR
DONALD, GEOFFREY, MOSS, VB, HHH, et al ????
There is no intent to bash anyone here, just a Very Happy,
Old Camper trying to get along, ala Rodney King.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
59/60BN7 (NastyBoy 302 Ford)
Playing with Healeys since July 28, 1961>>
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 17:55:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Jet diaphragm lifespans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:15:40 EST
Subject: Gas tank sender orientation
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:30:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Autocross help.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 17:43:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
You can sometimes get the horn to work by giving it a sharp rap with a
hammer while it is energized.
If that fails;
My shop manual says first, "if neither horn works, check the 50 amp fuse
& the connections to the horns".
Second, "the horn may only require adjusting, there is an adjusting
screw on the horn which can be turned to adjust the contact inside. With
12 volts applied, adjust the screw to give a current of 4 amps through
the horn."
Worth a try before further repairs.
Dave Russell
matt wilson wrote:
> Dear Forum-
> While on the topic of Healey Horns... does anyone know where I can have my
> Lucas Horns restored? Neither of the horns out of my 1960 BT7 work. They
> look pretty but won't make a peep.
> Matt-
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'WilKo@aol.com' <WilKo@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:43:27 -0600
Subject: heritage address
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 16:50:38 -0800
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
> In a message dated 3/27/2003 10:25:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
>
> > Anyway, I believe all these outfits make a sincere effort to provide the
> > best parts they can. > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
I agree. Last year I purchased a set of down pipes from Moss for my Erika
the Red which the local muffler shop billed me an extra $100 to install
because of all the rebending they did to make them fit. I notified Moss of
the extra cost and they gave me $100 in credit on future purchases. I
appreciated their fairness. I've also always found there shipments bo be
accurate and fast.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:05:53 -0500
Subject: RE: RE: Rear Hubs and Bearing fit.
Stephen, BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:56:40 -0500
Subject: 3-litre vroo-o-o-o-m!
She started immediately, ran like all get-out, and idled like the proverbial
top.
"The Season" is upon us.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 17:26:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: gas tanks
I think I have one of those Mexican tanks in my BJ8.
I bought it several years ago from the Austin Healey
Store when they were still in business in LA.
The tank itself fits well, but does not have the
original style sheet metal pressings. maybe the
mexican factory you go to will do a better job... the
one I have is a bit rough around the edges, so to
speak, but has worked for 10 years....check if they do
aluminum ones and let me know....
Regading the fit of the tank into the car.... when I
put my tank in I interspersed thin neoprene squares so
that there would be some gaps for water to evaporate
between the tank and the boot floor - my original tank
rotted from the bottom because the tank sat flush on
the boot floor - it rotted from the outside in, not
the other way around. it lifts the tank up a bit as
well...
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I'm going to pick up a new gas tank today direct
> from a Mexican factory.
> I'll let you know how it works out...
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> In a message dated 3/27/03 5:14:17,
> ash173@frontiernet.net writes:
>
> << Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The one I
> bought from MOSS MOTORS
> will
> not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The
> beveled lower part of the tank
> is too far back.
>
> Al
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:25:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
Bill
Jim Wojcik wrote:
> Sounds like a stress fracture is likely before long. Jim Wojcik
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 8:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
>
> > I wrote this a while back and didn't send it. Hope
> > it still pertains.
> >
> > On the 100 (left hand drive) the reservoir is
> > mounted on a fairly flexible piece
> > of steel strap and when the engine runs it just
> > sits there and shakes. I've
> > noticed that when the engine idles the reservoir
> > will just shake fluid out of
> > the vent hole. I'm going to cure that one of these days!
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Brian Collins wrote:
> >
> > > Any thoughts on why I get hydraulic brake/clutch fluid coming out the
> top of
> > > the reservoir,....even with the cap on?
> > >
> > > Thanks god its Silicone!
> > >
> > > Brian
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:29:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas tank sender orientation
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I removed my fuel tank sender over the winter to have it and the guage
> recalibrated.
> When I reinstalled it I did so with the arm facing fore and aft--IOW, with
> the arm pointing toward the back of the car. Is this in fact the correct
> orientation?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 17:47:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BASHING (Moss, Vic Brit, HHH, etc.)
I don't deny that Moss (and others) do a fair job, but
my experience with Moss in the 80's and early 90's was
so bad, I stopped using them about '92. Better
quality parts were available elsewhere, for less cost
(as is still the case). I use Moss from time to time
on limited items such as non-factory accessories and
interior stuff... which they are very good at. OEM
replacements? Fair to poor to shocking....
My complaint with Moss (at that time) was that not a
single order was ever properly filled - e.g., back
ordered (which they never bothered to tell me on the
phone), slow delivery, the parts were incorrect, were
of shockingly poor quality, or did not fit. Almost
every received order was followed with a call back to
Moss to ask for a refund or exchange... it's no wonder
some people take 5 years to restore their cars. I do
understand that Moss has improved since then,
particularly with delivery being much more prompt
these days....
Is the bashing a bad thing? I'd say no... Moss needs
to know where they are failing their customers. If we
don't complain on this list, they won't improve.
I've probably spent $25,000 over the last 20 years in
purchasing parts for my healeys... probably only 1/8
of that went to Moss in total, because other suppliers
were doing a far better job with service and quality.
I do have to say Michael Grant at Moss is a great
guy... and he does work hard for you. Doesn't mean
Moss couldn't still improve.
I'd like to ask Moss this... are they still selling
Gippo Taiwan bumpers for $100 that they've been
selling unabashedly for the last 20 years????
probably. I figure that's a start.... when will Moss
provide a proper healey bumper? I can't imagine
making an OEM spec bumper would add that much more to
the cost ... let's start there and then when they get
that problem figured out, I'll start using them
again....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Now it's $0.06 (cents)
>
> Lest we older folks,
> (who were around 36 to 50 years ago and driving
> Healeys
> off show room floors/used car lots and the newer
> folks who
> purchased a 36 to 50 year old Healey yesterday),
> forgot or don't know, the Austin Healey Motorcar was
> hand
> built and hand fit.
>
> The story as I recall, is, if a (OEM) wing, bonnet,
> boot lid,
> door, GAS TANK, etc didn't fit to production
> standard, the
> production line folks (Donald and Geoffrey included)
> would search
> stock for a part that fit or make it fit.
>
> Don't think for a moment these cars, are or were
> cookie cutter cars,
> numerous variables back then and more now.
>
> As for the BJ8 GAS TANK fit/non-fit bashing, I
> wonder if John
> (the cartoonist) took the time to inquire this list
> (don't remember
> inquiry), make inquiry to Moss Motors technical
> staff, or consult
> the Moss Motors catalog exploded view of the fuel
> system on page
> 94' of my catalog.
>
> Possible problem with John's gas tank fit is lack of
> the required
> "sealing rubber" gasket. See exploded view on page
> 94, item #27.
>
> (Over the years, I have found the exploded views to
> be quite helpful
> in answering fit/non fit questions that I may have
> had. Yep, there it is,
> I need another part for the fix, oh, that's how it
> goes together, etc. etc.)
>
> The above problem solving method has always answered
> my questions,
> remember, before you bash,
> "If You don't ask the question, You don't get the
> answer".
>
> MAY IT BE NOTED,
>
> My past (ignorance) and present (less ignorant)
> experiences
> with Moss Motors, et al. over numerous years of
> dealing
> with them, has been (without exception) very
> positive, responsive
> and satisfying. I can't understand how it would be
> different for
> others. My guess is, some people carry honey in
> their pockets
> and others carry lemons.
>
> RECENT EXAMPLE,
>
> Approximately two years (3,000 mi) ago, I purchased
> a (on sale)
> set of five mini-lite replica center lock wheels
> from Victoria British.
> While doing other work on the car I decided to check
> the eight
> center lock mounting bolts on each wheel.
>
> (Nasty Boys have a habit of loosening things on 36
> to 50 year old
> Healeys.)
>
> I found a few nuts on each wheel would tighten with
> 35 lbs/ft torque
> applied and one bolt with stripped threads.
> Upon removing the nut and checking the bolt with
> stripped threads,
> I found only four (4) threads into the nut, the
> remaining seven nuts were
> removed and found the same to exist.
>
> I am not a Design Engineer nor Metallurgist, but my
> years of experience,
> (playing cars) tell me that a 3/8in X 24thread,
> grade 5, bolt needs
> more than four threads engaging the nut for
> sufficient fastening.
> Especially if the nut has 10 thread capacity
>
> Victoria British was contacted (for a heads up) they
> were very receptive
> to my input and would pass the info onto their
> product support people.
> No response from them yet. (This is not a Bash)
>
> I then contacted Moss Motors (as they sell the same
> wheels) and was
> put in contact with Michael Grant. Michael spent
> considerable time with
> me, expressing his concern, asking numerous
> questions and he would
> look into my heads up info.
>
> Several phone calls and e-mails later from Michael,
> with (extensive) Moss
> internal memos attached, keeping me informed on the
> progress
> of investigation into this matter (Michael himself
> inspecting
> wheels in stock) it was determined 6 to 7 threads
> exist on
> their wheels which is sufficient.
>
> It appears the MFG Torque Spec is 36/38 lbs/ft, and
> Loctite.
>
> CAN IT GET ANY BETTER THAN THIS FROM A NON
> PATRONIZED, DIDN'T MAKE A DIME RETAILER ???
>
> When time permits, my inspection of the other wheels
> will
> continue and assume Moss will also keep it on a
> front burner.
>
> My opinion for fix is,
>
> 1. If you check torque and get nut movement (Mfg
> Loctite is
> now disturbed and not effective) remove nut, check
> thread
> contact for 6 to 7 threads, re-torque to 36/38
> lbs/ft with new
> Loctite.
>
> 2. If you find insufficient thread contact (4
> threads) replace
> existing (3/8"X24tX2") bolt with 2 1/4" bolt and
> flat washers
> of sufficient thickness to expose 6 to 7 threads,
> re-torque with
> Loctite.
>
> JUST THINK FOR A MOMENT,
> WHERE WOULD WE ALL BE TODAY IF NOT FOR
> DONALD, GEOFFREY, MOSS, VB, HHH, et al ????
>
> There is no intent to bash anyone here, just a Very
> Happy,
> Old Camper trying to get along, ala Rodney King.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 (Tri-Carb)
> 59/60BN7 (NastyBoy 302 Ford)
> Playing with Healeys since July 28, 1961
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 7:21 AM
> Subject: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
>
>
> > Before we embark on yet another M-, VB-, HHH-,
> etc.-bashing thread
> > I'd like to add my $0.02.
> >
> > I bought my BJ8 almost 20 years ago, at the tail
> end of the "good" old
> days,
> > when the AHCUSA operated a parts yard where
> volunteers cannibalized
> > junk cars for serviceable parts. I was delighted
> to discover suppliers
> like M,
> > VB and HHH existed, since I was a novice owner and
> just wanted to keep
> > my car running ("originality" was not much of an
> issue, but I considered
> it).
>
=== message truncated ===
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@n4vu.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:55:08 -0500
Subject: Re: heritage address
Heritage Upholstery & Trim
250 "H" Street, PMB 3000
Blaine WA 98230
(360) 332-3022
www.heritagetrim.com
Good luck.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
>Reply-To: dicksonr@uwm.edu
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: heritage address
>Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:43:27 -0600
>
>Fellow Healeyites,
>I'm looking for an address for Heritage so that I can order my interrior
>for my
>BJ-7. I was thinking about ordering from AH Spares as I'm about to place a
>huge order from them but I want to compare to Heritage. Thanks in advace.
>Randy Dickson
>Healey Archaeologist
>Sturgeon Bay , WI.
>63 BJ-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:03:06 -0500
Subject: Healey Horns Question #2
> Dear Forum-
> While on the topic of Healey Horns... does anyone know where I can have my
> Lucas Horns restored? Neither of the horns out of my 1960 BT7 work. They
> look pretty but won't make a peep.
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:03:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
have you tried bashing your horns with a hammer until
they work? I have found that the horns go bad when
the "points" or contacts get out of spec, and they
don't work. You can, in theory, readjust the points
until the horns work again.... bashing them with a
hammer works pretty well also sometimes...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Dear Forum-
> While on the topic of Healey Horns... does anyone
> know where I can have my
> Lucas Horns restored? Neither of the horns out of
> my 1960 BT7 work. They
> look pretty but won't make a peep.
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:03:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
You didn't say where in Colorado. That might make a difference to someone.
Bill
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> That's quite a drive Reid....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 8:45 AM
> Subject: Healey driver wanted, object: road trip
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Looking for a hand to get a BT7 from Colorado to Oregon. Here are the
> > details: we depart Portland with a truck and trailer on Sunday, April 6,
> and
> > arrive in Colorado the next day. We load one Healey onto the trailer, and
> > you -- the volunteer driver -- drive a second Healey (a BT7 with hardtop)
> > back to Portland in convoy with the truck and trailer, arriving in
> Portland
> > on Wednesday the 9th. You get major "seat time" in a big Healey. Apply
> > within.
> >
> > Reid
> > Reid Trummel
> > Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> > http://www.healey.org
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:11:30 -0500
Subject: Re: 3-litre vroo-o-o-o-m!
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:14:38 -0500
Subject: Re: heritage address
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:19:10 -0600
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
Hey, I am from Nebraska! I would echo what others have said about Moss VB,
HHH, Precision Sportscar (I'll add them to the list) etc. Not an old timer,
but my first car was a Sprite in '75, appreciate the availability of parts
and service we have today.
I got the bad kingpins from VB, I sent them back the Saturday before last
and got a full kngpin kit back the following Wednesday, not bad turnaround
(although I am still waiting for the 300 for labor)
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 18:32:36 -0800
Subject: Re: heritage address
http://www.heritagetrim.com/main.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 4:43 PM
Subject: heritage address
> Fellow Healeyites,
> I'm looking for an address for Heritage so that I can order my interrior
for my
> BJ-7. I was thinking about ordering from AH Spares as I'm about to place
a
> huge order from them but I want to compare to Heritage. Thanks in advace.
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay , WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:51:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas tank sender orientation
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> I removed my fuel tank sender over the winter to have it and the guage
> recalibrated.
> When I reinstalled it I did so with the arm facing fore and aft--IOW, with
> the arm pointing toward the back of the car. Is this in fact the correct
> orientation?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:11:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Brakes again--61 BT7
The original factory bracket on mine is made of .105" X .750"W steel &
is very rigid. The band around the can is equally sturdy. It doesn't
even wiggle, let alone shake. Your engine must have a tremendous amount
of vibration. ---Smile----
Dave Russell
BN2
ynotink wrote:
> Yeah, I need to reinforce it.
>
> Bill
>>>On the 100 (left hand drive) the reservoir is
>>>mounted on a fairly flexible piece
>>>of steel strap and when the engine runs it just
>>>sits there and shakes. I've
>>>noticed that when the engine idles the reservoir
>>>will just shake fluid out of
>>>the vent hole. I'm going to cure that one of these days!
>>>
>>>Bill Lawrence
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 23:21:35 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2/ Moss parts
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:37:30 -0800
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH, etc. (was: Re: gas tanks)
-Roland
Not quite through reinstalling everything.
On Thu, 27 Mar 2003 20:19:10 -0600, you wrote:
::I got the bad kingpins from VB, I sent them back the Saturday before last
::and got a full kngpin kit back the following Wednesday, not bad turnaround
::(although I am still waiting for the 300 for labor)
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 23:49:39 -0500
Subject: Torque on Cam Gear Nut
On the other hand, I had to use quite a bit of oomph to get this one off, even
after heating the lock tight.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 23:51:05 -0500
Subject: Pully Oil Damper - Oil thrower reassembly question
For those with parts manuals, it is on plate A3 (to face MA6), part 6 "Pully
Damper Oil Thrower"
Thanks
Ryan
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 23:53:25 -0500
Subject: Fw: removing Engine Crank Nut - my solution
I made a simple set of pipe wrench jaw covers from sheet metal that clip
over the teeth of the pipe wrench. Kept the wrench from marring the nut.
Sometimes the best ideas are simple.
Thanks again
Ryan
BJ7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 00:23:47 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 00:33:38 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $ 30.00 + S.H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:43:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: gas tanks
No matter how you cut it in a Healey, you will get
moisture in the trunk, particularly if it is humid
where you live or you drive your car when there is
water on the road, you can't escape it.
Sealing a healey boot perfectly to the elements is all
but impossible. Even if you do use alot of silicon
caulking and the like... it usually doesn't work
because it can often work to keep the moisture in
(i.e. once it gets in) rather than keeping it out....
which is the typical assumption with using silicone
caulking.
If you look at a factory trunk, it is not very well
sealed to the elements. You have gaps between the
welds on the point where the boot floor connects to
the chassis. You have gaps in the grommets for the
fuel line feed and battery cable. There are gaps
where the rear shroud connects to the inner fender...
the list goes on and on.
The trick is to do your best to minimize how much
water gets into the trunk in the first place (ie. tank
seal and boot lid seal), but to allow ample space for
water to disspate and evaporate if it does get into
the boot. If your tank is sitting flat on the boot
floor, it will make it very hard for humidity and
water to escape from underneath the tank, and
eventually corrode. Hence why I had problems with my
BJ8 evnthough it is a California Car.
Also have you considered the battery in your boot? if
it is gassing off vapors or leaking fluid (even small
amounts), the first place it will go is inbetween the
boot floor and your gas tank...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> Ok, sorry, got to ask . Alan, if the tank is
> properly sealed all
> the way around the tank and you've got a good trunk
> lid seal in place, and
> assuming no rust holes, where and how is water going
> to get in the trunk?
> Unless the gaps your referring to vent to the
> outside of the car.
>
> Curious in Indiana, Mark
>
>
> >
> > Regading the fit of the tank into the car.... when
> I
> > put my tank in I interspersed thin neoprene
> squares so
> > that there would be some gaps for water to
> evaporate
> > between the tank and the boot floor -
> >
> > Hope that helps,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> >
> > --- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> > > I'm going to pick up a new gas tank today direct
> > > from a Mexican factory.
> > > I'll let you know how it works out...
> > >
> > > Rick
> > > San Diego
> > >
> > > In a message dated 3/27/03 5:14:17,
> > > ash173@frontiernet.net writes:
> > >
> > > << Who sells gas tanks for a BJ8 that fit. The
> one I
> > > bought from MOSS MOTORS
> > > will
> > > not sit in the rectangular hole in trunk. The
> > > beveled lower part of the tank
> > > is too far back.
> > >
> > > Al
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:55:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gas tank sender orientation
I know that facing the rear is the way they did it at
the factory... but take it from a guy who drive his
healey in the hills and mountains all the time.... I
prefer it facing forward.
If it faces forward, the float is located right above
the gas tank pickup, which is in the front of the
tank. if you know how much gas is over the pickup..
that's a better measure of knowing if you are running
out of gas.
i've sputtered and run out of gas a couple times now
while spending extened periods running up hills... a
slight tap on the brakes (to slosh fuel around) and
the sputtering stopped!
cheers,
Alan
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I removed my fuel tank sender over the winter to
> have it and the guage
> recalibrated.
> When I reinstalled it I did so with the arm facing
> fore and aft--IOW, with
> the arm pointing toward the back of the car. Is
> this in fact the correct
> orientation?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "John D. Leonard" <cymru at pacific.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 22:16:32 -0800
Subject: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
I have every nut, bolt, washer, spring and clip etc., from two disassembled
1963 BJ7's.
One BJ7 was purchased as a "parts" car.
These small parts have years of road dust and grease and some small amounts of
surface rust on them.
I am ready to begin re-assembly of the major parts to my finished frame.
I am looking for a provider in the Northern California area that can clean and
plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
original items where ever possible.
Is this the correct way to go, or does anyone have a better (and safer) way to
complete this task?
Can this be done carefully in small lots, in a bench sand blasting cabinet and
plated later, as needed? Or should each nut and bolt etc., be cleaned
"individually", by hand?
I am, incidentally, cleaning all larger items by hand.
This question relates to the smaller items, such as nuts and bolts etc....
Regards,
cymru california
BJ7
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 22:41:56 -0800
Subject: Shrouding for a 100
>>>> wonder if you have ever seen
shrouding on a 100. I've often thought that one could fabricate a
sheet-metal insert much like the 6-cylinder rallye cars have in them,
with
one hole on the right side for the fresh-air trunking and another on the
left
for the cold-air box air duct. I wouldn't want to remove the grill for
aesthetic reasons, but I wonder if this has been done on any 4's.>>>>>
Lou
BN1
AN5
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 22:49:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pully Oil Damper - Oil thrower reassembly question
Working from the inside out the stack is
1. Packing washer
2. Crank Gear
3. Thrower (cup facing toward the cover)
4. Cover
5. Damper
Dean BN7
--- "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com> wrote:
> Does this thing go inside the timing cover or
> outside. My bet is on it being
> on the outside, but I'd like to confirm that.
>
> For those with parts manuals, it is on plate A3 (to
> face MA6), part 6 "Pully
> Damper Oil Thrower"
>
> Thanks
>
> Ryan
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 03:09:55 EST
Subject: Loctite & front shocks
Comments??
Simon.
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From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 01:14:58 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: knock off hubs
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Mike Pederson" <condoguy1@earthlink.net>
Subject: knock off hubs
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 14:19:46 -0500
I bought new 12tpi knock offs from Moss and they will not fit. Turn about 1
1/2 revolutions and that's it. Has anyone else had this problem?
Mike
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 01:03:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
I'd definintely not put a whole lot of loctite on
those bolts. If the nut comes loose from the shock
mounting plate (i.e. because of the loctite) you'll be
in deeeeep doo doo, and the whole shebang with shock
will have to be cut off with a torch and you'll have
to weld up a new mounting plate at a frame shop (to
get the alignment right) $$$$ with a lot of grief.
Tighten them down every few months or so, it's not
that much trouble.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> I currently have my 3000 up on blocks. (Radiator
> rebuild. Bar's leaks nbg.
> See previous thread about a week ago).
> Wheels being off, I was able to "get at" everything
> quite easily...including
> those shocker bolts....the ones that come loose and
> wreck everything?? You
> know the ones!
> Well, I check mine often enough, but I have to say
> that I had to tighten each
> one. Only by a fraction, but - and I suppose this is
> the point - the bolts
> weren't how I'd left them.
> Moral - check yours. (now?)
> Consider putting loctite on these wrtched bolts?
>
> Comments??
> Simon.
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From "Allen S. Hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 04:17:01 -0600
Subject: Gas tanks
Allen S. Hodder
BJ8
82nd Abn. Div.
173d Abn. Bde.
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From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 03:49:34 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
Subject: Re: M, VB, HHH
John metcalfe
BN4 BT7
My $.02. I agree with Bob. Look at the M*ss catalogue. It reflects a
company and ownership that supports the marque and demonstrates a genuine
interest in its history. The same is true of every supplier of LBC parts
with whom I have dealt. The suppliers have to make a profit but they
expect us to shop around for quality and price.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif]
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:07:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas tanks
regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen S. Hodder <ash173@frontiernet.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 28, 2003 6:13 AM
Subject: Gas tanks
>Let me try this again. Where can I buy a gas tank for a BJ8 that fits.
That's
>all I want to know. I do not need any of you telling me how to think or
>behave. I bought this car in 1968, so don't try to tell me about what it
used
>to be like trying to get parts, I know. I found out after someone stole my
>front seats in 1970. I joined this list for help restoring this car. If I
have
>a restoration question, I would like restoration answers. Same thing with
>purchasing usable parts. Next time if some of you don't like my sharing of
>information that a supplier has parts that don't fit, please, contact me
>offline, this exparatrooper has more colorful language that I would gladly
>share with you personally.
>
>Allen S. Hodder
>BJ8
>82nd Abn. Div.
>173d Abn. Bde.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:08:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Forwarded: knock off hubs
We have sold many sets of knock offs over the years and we did have one
pair of lefts (I think) that were exactly as you describe about 8 years
ago.
Does this problem apply to all 4 i.e. both sides?
When did you buy them?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Mike Pederson" <condoguy1@earthlink.net>
Subject: knock off hubs
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 14:19:46 -0500
I bought new 12tpi knock offs from Moss and they will not fit. Turn
about 1
1/2 revolutions and that's it. Has anyone else had this problem?
Mike
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 06:15:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:27:18 EST
Subject: Re: Gas tanks
> Let me try this again. Where can I buy a gas tank for a BJ8 that fits.
> That's
> all I want to know. I do not need any of you telling me how to think or
> behave.
I'd try Moss!
Best--Michael Oritt (ducking)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:29:07 -0500
Subject: Re: not BASHING (Apology)
Best,
--
John Miller, who gruntledly prefers "close" parts to no parts at all -- it
cuts down of fabrication time.
On Friday, March 28, 2003 01:25, 62BT7 wrote:
> Hey John, thanks to you, I just woke up....
>
> I would have gone to bed tonight anguishing
> over what I thought you said today, poking
> cartoonish fun at all my good friends in the
> Moss Motors Purchasing Dept.
>
> I erringly responded to your message, erringly
> pointed you out to the list as a disgruntled
> cartoonist, and erringly associated and aligned
> you with those who/whom SUFFER FROM
> GAS TANKITIS.
>
> I (also) take a back seat to no man (or woman)
> when it comes time for an apology.
>
> JOHN, PLEASE, PLEASE, FORGIVE ME,
> AS I KNOW NOT FOR WHAT I HAVE DONE.
>
> LISTERS,
> PLEASE CHANGE THE NAMES TO PROTECT
> THE INNOCENT, From JOHN, To ALLEN.
>
> Kirk ;-) ;-)
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From "Dick Gaier" <dgaier at romarindserv.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:44:26 -0500
Subject: bj8 gas tank
Cheers and good luck,
Dick Gaier
Romar Industrial Services
P.O. Box 111494
Pittsburgh, PA 15238
Phone: 724-226-1600
Fax: 724-226-9170
E-mail: dgaier@romarindserv.com
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:03:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John D. Leonard" <cymru@pacific.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 1:16 AM
Subject: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers etc....
> Hi everyone,
> My first "how to" question.......
>
> I have every nut, bolt, washer, spring and clip etc., from two
disassembled
> 1963 BJ7's.
> One BJ7 was purchased as a "parts" car.
> These small parts have years of road dust and grease and some small
amounts of
> surface rust on them.
>
> I am ready to begin re-assembly of the major parts to my finished frame.
>
> I am looking for a provider in the Northern California area that can clean
and
> plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
> original items where ever possible.
>
> Is this the correct way to go, or does anyone have a better (and safer)
way to
> complete this task?
> Can this be done carefully in small lots, in a bench sand blasting cabinet
and
> plated later, as needed? Or should each nut and bolt etc., be cleaned
> "individually", by hand?
> I am, incidentally, cleaning all larger items by hand.
> This question relates to the smaller items, such as nuts and bolts etc....
>
> Regards,
> cymru california
> BJ7
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:28:57 EST
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
<< I'd definintely not put a whole lot of loctite on
those bolts. If the nut comes loose from the shock
mounting plate (i.e. because of the loctite) you'll be
in deeeeep doo doo, >>
I think the idea of Loctite is so the fastners don't come lose.
Don
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:34:51 EST
Subject: Re: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
<< can clean and
plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
original items where ever possible. >>
A word of caution: The plating company must not put so much cad plating on
that it will mess up your threaded parts.
Don
NTAHC
ONLY ONE WEEK UNTIL TEXAS HEALEY ROUND UP. IT'S NOT TO LATE TO GO!
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:33:22 -0500
Subject: Spring
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:51:47 EST
Subject: Re: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
A word of caution since you stated that you were going to or already did
clean your fasteners before sending them to the platers. Most plating shops
get in rusty old nuts and bolts and then acid clean them in preparation for
plating, but the problem arises when you decide to help them out, let me
explain.
A friend of mine did just this, cleaned all of his fasteners, checked them
carefully for stretched and stripped threads, rounded heads, etc., and
replaced them as necessary so that he would have high quality original
fasteners for his restoration. The plating shop however put them in the acid
bath for the same time as they would have old greasey/rusty fasteners and the
result was that they ruined the whole lot! His nice shinny near perfect
fasteners were now severely pitted and weakened and for all intents,
unusable.
Of course the plating shop apologized and offered to replace the fasteners
however I don't need to tell a lot of you out there that it can be a daunting
task to try to replace the original British UNF and BSF fasteners, since in
this case it was a BN2, let alone match the original vendor names on the
bolts, and as I stated he spent many months sorting through bins of nuts and
bolts to replace the nearly 30% of the originals that were unserviceable for
various reasons.
Some of you may ask why he did not talk to his plater about this first, and
the sad answer is that he did, and they either ignored him or they forgot.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt - Who plates all of his fasteners at home using a "Caswell"
plating kit. I haven't lost or ruined one yet!
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/28/03 4:18:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< "barrel" plating is the most economical way to go. the plater will run
everything through a cleaning bath before plating. have the plater bake all
of your parts for an hour to remove the hydrogen embrittlement. the finish
you want is cad 1 rather than cad 2 which is the yellow passivation. sorting
all when you get your "goodies" home is the real fun.
John D. Leonard wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> My first "how to" question.......
>
> I have every nut, bolt, washer, spring and clip etc., from two
disassembled
> 1963 BJ7's.
> One BJ7 was purchased as a "parts" car.
> These small parts have years of road dust and grease and some small
amounts of
> surface rust on them.
>
> I am ready to begin re-assembly of the major parts to my finished frame.
>
> I am looking for a provider in the Northern California area that can
clean and
> plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
> original items where ever possible.
>
> Is this the correct way to go, or does anyone have a better (and safer)
way to
> complete this task?
> Can this be done carefully in small lots, in a bench sand blasting
cabinet and
> plated later, as needed? Or should each nut and bolt etc., be cleaned
> "individually", by hand?
> I am, incidentally, cleaning all larger items by hand.
> This question relates to the smaller items, such as nuts and bolts etc....
>
> Regards,
> cymru california
> BJ7
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:04:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas tanks
Aren't we testy this morning, must have had a
MRE for breakfast.
Are you sure you don't drive a Porsche.
I'm real happy to read you learned paratrooper
language in the Marine Corps.
Recently, someone on the list reported a BJ8
found in a Montana barn, maybe you should
explore that area for a gas tank.
If nothing in Montana, try e-bay, usually there
is one or two gas tanks listed.
SEE CURRENT LISTING ON E-BAY
item #2408793355
"Austin Healey 3000-100/6 Fuel
Gastank 50% off @ $159.95"
San Diego, CA
No Bids as of this writing.
Just trying to be helpful.
If there is anything else I can do for you,
feel free to ask. ;-)
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen S. Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 2:17 AM
Subject: Gas tanks
> Let me try this again. Where can I buy a gas tank for a BJ8 that fits.
That's
> all I want to know. I do not need any of you telling me how to think or
> behave. I bought this car in 1968, so don't try to tell me about what it
used
> to be like trying to get parts, I know. I found out after someone stole my
> front seats in 1970. I joined this list for help restoring this car. If I
have
> a restoration question, I would like restoration answers. Same thing with
> purchasing usable parts. Next time if some of you don't like my sharing of
> information that a supplier has parts that don't fit, please, contact me
> offline, this exparatrooper has more colorful language that I would gladly
> share with you personally.
>
> Allen S. Hodder
> BJ8
> 82nd Abn. Div.
> 173d Abn. Bde.
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 11:03:43 -0500
Subject: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
I have every nut, bolt, washer, spring and clip etc., from two disassembled
1963 BJ7's.
One BJ7 was purchased as a "parts" car.
These small parts have years of road dust and grease and some small amounts of
surface rust on them.
I am ready to begin re-assembly of the major parts to my finished frame.
I am looking for a provider in the Northern California area that can clean and
plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
original items where ever possible.
Is this the correct way to go, or does anyone have a better (and safer) way to
complete this task?
Eastwood sells a zinc plating kit. Caswell is another good supplier
which I have tried. If your hardware is not too rusty you can do it
yourself, or you can send it to a plating shop. I prefer the kit so I
know what is what and I control the process, but I am about to send
out some big stuff to a shop. I used a bench grinder with a wire
brush or sandblasting and phosphoric acid solution to clean up the
rust. Make sure you know what was cadmium zinc or black oxide plated
before you start. Good luck.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 10:08:48 -0800
Subject: The Lighter Side
Ever Wonder?
When someone offers you a penny for your thoughts, and you put in your two
cents' worth, what happens to the other penny?
Submitted to Readers Digest (1/03) by Fred Franago
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 13:54:04 -0800
Subject: Lost emails
I have had comp problems for several days but seem to have it all straightened
out. However, I lost all my saved emails. This will likely result in a
greater number of Qs than ordinary (no comments Dougie).
Hope it is not too much of an aggravation
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 14:22:57 -0800
Subject: Fastener specs
With all this talk about fasteners, does anyone have the specifications key as
to what the lettering for fastener parts numbers means? I would appreciate
receiving it please.
Keith Pennell
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From wilkinson at earthlink.net
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:33:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Gas tank sender orientation
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
I removed my fuel tank sender over the winter to have it and the guage
recalibrated.
When I reinstalled it I did so with the arm facing fore and aft--IOW, with
the arm pointing toward the back of the car. Is this in fact the correct
orientation?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From wilkinson at earthlink.net
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:33:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Gas tank sender orientation
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
I removed my fuel tank sender over the winter to have it and the guage
recalibrated.
When I reinstalled it I did so with the arm facing fore and aft--IOW, with
the arm pointing toward the back of the car. Is this in fact the correct
orientation?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:13:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Fastener specs
Having nothing else to do, I made up four lists in total.
Attached are two Word documents showing the diametercodes for bolts/screws
and the dimensions of cable clips. Unfortunately both are in Dutch (which
happens to be my mother tongue) but in case you think they are useful to you
I'll gladly translate them for you and any other listers that ask for it.
Also attached are two Excel sheets showing the BMC bolt codes and BMC letter
codes. These should be self-explanatory.
I realise that the attachments will be removed for all listers except you -
interested listers can get the lists from me on an individual basis.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 11:22 PM
Subject: Fastener specs
> Listers,
>
> With all this talk about fasteners, does anyone have the specifications
key as
> to what the lettering for fastener parts numbers means? I would
appreciate
> receiving it please.
>
> Keith Pennell
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/vnd]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/vnd]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Diametercodes van bouten.doc]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Maatcodes kabelclipsPCR.doc]
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From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at attbi.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 19:42:13 -0500
Subject: Freeze plugs
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:48:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas tanks
I think If I had a problem with a product from any supplier I would first
contact
the supplier to give them the opportunity to address the problem. As noted
before
each of these cars was hand built and not all parts were dimensionally correct
from the start. In addition to that the part you purchased was almost certainly
not built by the original manufacturer or to the original pattern. If the part
will not work the supplier should be notified so they can make it right for you
and correct the problem in their supply chain.
I admire anyone who shares my enthusiasm for these cars, but who ever said it
was
going to be easy.
Hoooaw!
Bill Lawrence
"Allen S. Hodder" wrote:
> Let me try this again. Where can I buy a gas tank for a BJ8 that fits. That's
> all I want to know. I do not need any of you telling me how to think or
> behave. I bought this car in 1968, so don't try to tell me about what it used
> to be like trying to get parts, I know. I found out after someone stole my
> front seats in 1970. I joined this list for help restoring this car. If I have
> a restoration question, I would like restoration answers. Same thing with
> purchasing usable parts. Next time if some of you don't like my sharing of
> information that a supplier has parts that don't fit, please, contact me
> offline, this exparatrooper has more colorful language that I would gladly
> share with you personally.
>
> Allen S. Hodder
> BJ8
> 82nd Abn. Div.
> 173d Abn. Bde.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 19:38:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Fastener specs
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:52:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/28/03 3:05:06 AM Central
> Standard Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << I'd definintely not put a whole lot of loctite on
> those bolts. If the nut comes loose from the shock
> mounting plate (i.e. because of the loctite) you'll
> be
> in deeeeep doo doo, >>
>
> I think the idea of Loctite is so the fastners don't
> come lose.
>
> Don
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:11:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Freeze plugs
I suspect that the 3 plugs that could be reached easily without removing
the engine have been replaced at some stage as it is normal for that
type of plug to be installed with the cup facing outwards.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sam Marble
Sent: 28-Mar-03 7:42 PM
To: healeys
Subject: Freeze plugs
While I have the engine out of the BN4 I wanted to replace the freeze
plugs - just in case. I noticed, that of the 4 cupped plugs, 3 were
installed with the cup facing inwards and the 4th, the one on the back
end of the block had the cup facing outwards.
None of them had caused any problems and I was wondering if their was
a particular reason for that 4th one facing the opposite way ?
Sam
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:26:02 EST
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
<< If
one of those nuts breaks off from the shock mounting
plate, deep doo doo will ensue. >>
If they break off you have a major problem anyway. It would be time to make a
plate that is inserted in a slot you cut in the shock tower or as I have
done. Machine new threaded inserts that can be welded from the bottom side.
They should be made with the maximum amount of threads that the height of the
opening will allow.
Or you can put the bolts back on with lock washer and find they have come
lose and the threads are now messed up. I think common sense would tell you
to keep the bolts tight
The major problem with shock towers is the threads that get messed up from
the bolts coming lose, therefore causing the bolts to break or strip the
threads.
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:27:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
-Roland
On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:52:19 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
::My point was if you get loctite on the threads of your
::shock mounting bolts, you may put more stress on the
::shock mount nuts than they were designed to take. If
::one of those nuts breaks off from the shock mounting
::plate, deep doo doo will ensue.
::
::Alan
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 22:07:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Horns Question #2
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 22:04:27 -0800
Subject: Fastener specs replies
What a great resource! Thanks to you all!
God, be with our soldiers.
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 22:45:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Bulk cleaning and zinc plating of nuts, bolts and washers
If you can get hold of a rock tumbler they work quite well. Add to it an
appropriate amount of your small pieces, several SS sheet metal screws, a
good dose of Comet, and water. Does a very nice job in cleaning and
derusting in about 15-30 minutes. Plating is then done by one of the
available kits or by a plater. Best to plate ASAP as oxidation begins right
away.
Keith Pennell
> Hi everyone,
> My first "how to" question.......
>
> I have every nut, bolt, washer, spring and clip etc., from two
disassembled
> 1963 BJ7's.
> One BJ7 was purchased as a "parts" car.
> These small parts have years of road dust and grease and some small
amounts of
> surface rust on them.
>
> I am ready to begin re-assembly of the major parts to my finished frame.
>
> I am looking for a provider in the Northern California area that can clean
and
> plate all these (small) items, as a bulk lot, as I would like to use the
> original items where ever possible.
>
> Is this the correct way to go, or does anyone have a better (and safer)
way to
> complete this task?
> Can this be done carefully in small lots, in a bench sand blasting cabinet
and
> plated later, as needed? Or should each nut and bolt etc., be cleaned
> "individually", by hand?
> I am, incidentally, cleaning all larger items by hand.
> This question relates to the smaller items, such as nuts and bolts etc....
>
> Regards,
> cymru california
> BJ7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:30:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
My .02
Keith Pennell
> Since Loctite comes in many gradations, some of which will release at
> 20 ft lbs of torque, I think the issue should be what type of Loctite
> should be used. When tightening the shocks down, they will be torqued
> to spec. Choosing the right Loctite will mean that the threads will
> release at the same spec. If that amount of torque disturbs the tack
> welds, too bad.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:52:19 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> ::My point was if you get loctite on the threads of your
> ::shock mounting bolts, you may put more stress on the
> ::shock mount nuts than they were designed to take. If
> ::one of those nuts breaks off from the shock mounting
> ::plate, deep doo doo will ensue.
> ::
> ::Alan
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 20:48:14 -0800
Subject: Healey Manuals
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 20:51:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
-Roland
On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:30:08 -0800, Keith wrote:
::Isn't using Loctite in this application kinda like spitting against the
::wind? Since the housings of these shocks are Al which will compress under
::the bolt head with time and especially shock operation, won't the bolt work
::"loose" even though tight to the nut? Seems to me the only answer is
::periodic tightening . . .
::
::My .02
::Keith Pennell
::
:: (Roland wrote:)
::> Since Loctite comes in many gradations, some of which will release at
::> 20 ft lbs of torque, I think the issue should be what type of Loctite
::> should be used.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:59:35 EST
Subject: Re: Gas tank sender orientation
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $ 30.00 +S.H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:03:46 -0800
Subject: SB 708 update -- of interest to Calif. Healey owners
-Roland
see below for the details:
::Date and Time of Update: Thu Mar 27 1:26:08 US/Pacific 2003
::
::
::Legislative action has occurred on bill(s) you have subscribed
::to through the California Legislative Counsel's web site
::(http://www.leginfo.ca.gov)
::or the California State Senate's web site
::(http://www.sen.ca.gov).
::
::You can link to the Bill Documents page or to the specific page
::of information that has been updated. If you cannot link from this
::E-mail message, you can enter the URL on your Internet Browser.
::
::
::
:: AMENDED
:http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/bill/sen/sb_0701-0750/sb_708_bill_20030326_amended_sen.html
:
::
:: HISTORY
:http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/bill/sen/sb_0701-0750/sb_708_bill_20030326_history.html
:
::
:: STATUS
:http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/bill/sen/sb_0701-0750/sb_708_bill_20030326_status.html
:
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 02:34:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Heater Valve
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 06:30:12 -0500
Subject: FW: [AHCA Delegates] Healey on Speed Channel
Forwarded to me from local AHCA delegate-North East Ohio chapter.
> This Sunday, March 30, the Autoweek on the Speed Channel will include a
> > segment on an Austin Healey. We are not sure of the content of the
> > segment, but I wanted everyone to know about it. It will show at 11:30
> > am and 11:00 pm Eastern Time on Sunday.
> >
> > John
> >
Thought some of you might be interested. Spread the word. Maybe someone can
>tape it. Bill E
>From: "WILLIAM EBERSOLE" <blazinbill@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: blazinbill@earthlink.net
>To: "BILL TRUNKO" <trunkoserv@aol.com>, "GARY FELDMAN"
><ghfeldman@adelphia.net>, "CHUCK MILLER" <Bugeyejam1@aol.com>, "JACK
>AKERS" <akersagency@us5.com>, "KEN HILLER" <skhiller@aol.com>, "LYNN CLINE"
><lynn@ahealey.com>, "MARK MILLER" <MarkMiller@stark.cc.oh.us>, "PETE
>HABURT" <CARNUT@kellnet.com>, "Percy Finzer" <percyfin@aol.com>, "WAYNE
>WARD" <WardWE@aol.com>, "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
>Subject: FW: [AHCA Delegates] Healey on Speed Channel
>Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 11:16:10 -0500
>>>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: John May <jdmay@attglobal.net>
> > To: <f50n@healeyclub.org>; <chapternews@mail.serve.com>; AHCA Delegates
><healeys@yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: 3/28/03 10:39:50 AM
> > Subject: [AHCA Delegates] Healey on Speed Channel
> >
>> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Make Money Online Auctions! Make $500.00 or We Will Give You Thirty
>Dollars for Trying!
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/yMx78A/fNtFAA/46VHAA/OUAslB/TM
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>--- WILLIAM EBERSOLE
>--- blazinbill@earthlink.net
>--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 07:14:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater Valve
Larry
67 BJ8
John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I seem to recall seeing this discussed on the list, but I cannot find it in
>the archives. Which direction (parallel or perpendicular) is the handle to the
>hose when the heater valve on the engine block is CLOSED, i.e., no flow to the
>heater core? Also, is there a gasket between the valve and the block?
__________________________________________________________________
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From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 07:23:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater Valve
Larry
67 BJ8
John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I seem to recall seeing this discussed on the list, but I cannot find it in
>the archives. Which direction (parallel or perpendicular) is the handle to the
>hose when the heater valve on the engine block is CLOSED, i.e., no flow to the
>heater core? Also, is there a gasket between the valve and the block?
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:18:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Manuals
Neither of the 100 manuals, parts or workshop, have a diagram of the 100
frame for dimensions.
The best resource that I know of is this drawing from Larry Varley's
site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100drawing.tif
It is not perfect but it is a good start.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brian Burke
Sent: 28-Mar-03 11:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Manuals
What is the difference between parts manuals and workshop manuals? I
am
looking for reference on frame measurements and other related
information
for a 100/4. Which manual would give better information for my needs?
Thank you
Brian
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:20:21 -0500
Subject: Air Compressor Recommendations-Non Healey
My 40+ year old Sears air compressor is officially dead. I plan to use some air
tools and a sand blaster going forward.
I'm looking for some recommendations on what size, make/model people have had
good luck with. Also what specs are important. (?)
Any help would be appreciated.
TIA
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:42:10 EST
Subject: Too many revs
Background:- I have a MkII BT7. It has 3 HD6s all apparently set up right
and, until just now, there were no fuel related problems. (that I knew of).
The symptoms:- I was giving the car a spin to see if there were any leaks in
the newly reconditioned/rebuilt radiator. I had a pint in mind, but was
primarily watching the gauges.
The revs suddenly increased, of their own volition, and stayed up around
4000+. Quite a problem in traffic.
What I did on the spot/have eliminated:-
1) The linkage from foot to carbs appears to be fine and the linkage goes
back to its stops when the pedal is off.
2) The revs remain at 4000+ even if the pedal is off, though one can increase
them with the pedal.
3) Harking back to an earlier cock-up, I checked the vacuum hose from servo
to inlet manifold. (I think that leaving that off/holed allows more air into
system and hence more revs).
4) I took each dash pot off. All seems OK. The spindles appear to be closed
when the pedal is off.
5) I tapped each float chamber and am pretty sure that theyaren't playing up.
Question:-
1) Help??
2) Where does one start? Fuel or air?
a) Surely the car can't get more fuel than one gives it? Assuming the carbs
haven't all gone berserk simultaneously!
b) Ditto the air...surely it can't start getting more air from somewhere
other than the intakes or the servo pipe which I think I've eliminated??
If anything else occurs, I'll post it on, but, in the meantime, I'd be glad
of advice.
Yours,
Simon.
p.s. the radiator seems fine! No apparent leaks and appears to be running
cooler with the presumably more effective modern core.
p.p.s. the original leak was where the core was soldered/brazed(?) to the
top.
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From Richard Rinaldo <rico1969 at adelphia.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:56:35 -0500
Subject: vintage races ?
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:12:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Recommendations-Non Healey
Dual stage pump, and a motor whose manufacturer you've heard of.
This is not a recommendation, but for background, I've been using a 2HP
single-stage Campbell-Hausfeld for the past 20 years or so. It is adequate,
barely. Not sure C-H is making 'em like that any more -- cast-iron pump,
Gould motor.
Based on that experience, for my next compressor, I'll be looking for 5HP,
minimum, with a dual-stage pump. Not to sharpen it too fine, but I'd
probably rather have a 3HP dual-stage than a 5HP single-stage, if you catch
my drift.
And beware of inflated HP ratings so prevalent today. Here may be a rule of
thumb: if it doesn't have a separate (not integral) motor, with a nameplate
on the motor that sets forth the HP and power consumption (and they match),
I'd keep looking.
Just one opinion.
--
John Miller
Nothing takes the taste out of peanut butter quite like unrequited love.
--Charlie Brown
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 08:11:19 -0800
Subject: Brake Lines
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 12:09:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Too many revs
I would bet that the engine coughed back through the carbs and that one
of the pieces of hose connecting the balance pipe to the manifolds has
blown off.
Short of that take off all the suction chambers and check that the
throttles are actually closed.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simonlachlan@aol.com
Sent: 29-Mar-03 10:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Too many revs
Some advice please, before I go down too many blind alleys in a quest of
my
own.
Background:- I have a MkII BT7. It has 3 HD6s all apparently set up
right
and, until just now, there were no fuel related problems. (that I knew
of).
The symptoms:- I was giving the car a spin to see if there were any
leaks in
the newly reconditioned/rebuilt radiator. I had a pint in mind, but was
primarily watching the gauges.
The revs suddenly increased, of their own volition, and stayed up around
4000+. Quite a problem in traffic.
What I did on the spot/have eliminated:-
1) The linkage from foot to carbs appears to be fine and the linkage
goes
back to its stops when the pedal is off.
2) The revs remain at 4000+ even if the pedal is off, though one can
increase
them with the pedal.
3) Harking back to an earlier cock-up, I checked the vacuum hose from
servo
to inlet manifold. (I think that leaving that off/holed allows more air
into
system and hence more revs).
4) I took each dash pot off. All seems OK. The spindles appear to be
closed
when the pedal is off.
5) I tapped each float chamber and am pretty sure that theyaren't
playing up.
Question:-
1) Help??
2) Where does one start? Fuel or air?
a) Surely the car can't get more fuel than one gives it? Assuming the
carbs
haven't all gone berserk simultaneously!
b) Ditto the air...surely it can't start getting more air from somewhere
other than the intakes or the servo pipe which I think I've eliminated??
If anything else occurs, I'll post it on, but, in the meantime, I'd be
glad
of advice.
Yours,
Simon.
p.s. the radiator seems fine! No apparent leaks and appears to be
running
cooler with the presumably more effective modern core.
p.p.s. the original leak was where the core was soldered/brazed(?) to
the
top.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:13:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:15:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>; "Blue One Hundred"
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: <Drtrite@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
> Isn't using Loctite in this application kinda like spitting against the
> wind? Since the housings of these shocks are Al which will compress under
> the bolt head with time and especially shock operation, won't the bolt
work
> "loose" even though tight to the nut? Seems to me the only answer is
> periodic tightening . . .
>
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Since Loctite comes in many gradations, some of which will release at
> > 20 ft lbs of torque, I think the issue should be what type of Loctite
> > should be used. When tightening the shocks down, they will be torqued
> > to spec. Choosing the right Loctite will mean that the threads will
> > release at the same spec. If that amount of torque disturbs the tack
> > welds, too bad.
> >
> > -Roland
> >
> > On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:52:19 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >
> > ::My point was if you get loctite on the threads of your
> > ::shock mounting bolts, you may put more stress on the
> > ::shock mount nuts than they were designed to take. If
> > ::one of those nuts breaks off from the shock mounting
> > ::plate, deep doo doo will ensue.
> > ::
> > ::Alan
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 12:32:31 EST
Subject: door cap seal wood BT7
Thanks
Price
60BT7
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:36:04 -0800
Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 12:45:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
I have never actually measured a door but I'm sure it is not as much as
6".
As I recall the wheelbase increased by 2" when the 100/6 was introduced
and that is probably what they added. Exactly where it was added I can't
say for sure.
Mike Orrit... time to get out that tape measure ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: 29-Mar-03 12:13 PM
To: Michael Salter; Healeys
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Mike & list,
I seem to remember the 6 cyl chassis has 6" added between the doors and
front wheels.
Is this true?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 12:53:56 EST
Subject: Re: Too many revs
<< 1) The linkage from foot to carbs appears to be fine and the linkage goes
back to its stops when the pedal is off. >>
I would guess that one of the shafts has spun a bit. That one carb will now
close but leave the other two open a bit. I would recommend disconnecting the
links between the carbs and letting them all shut, then tighten the links.
Rick
San Diego
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:39:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Too many revs
In the interest of not keeping you from that pint for too long, here is a
thought:
This actually happened to me in a friends' tri-carb (with stock HS4's) not
long ago. The engine suddenly and inexplicably was racing, similar to your
experience. I got it over to the side quickly and shut it down to
investigate. As I was reaching to open the bonnet, I heard a polite 'clunk'
from the engine bay. Nothing seemed to be amiss on the intial look around,
so I hit the starter - everthing operated as normal!
A few minutes later in the outing, the same thing happened, only this time I
caught it - one of the pistons had stuck in the suction chamber part way up.
The instant I touched that damper cap - clunk! To get the car home, I
switched around a couple of the damper caps - the problem has never occurred
again. My best guess is that the affected one was very slightly bent, and
in a certain orientation, in that particular carb, it caused a problem.
When we later diagnosed the carbs, everything else was in good order -
needle not binding, no apparent damage to piston / suction chamber, etc.
etc. Go figure!
Other than Mike Salter's post, I can't think of anything else that would be
so far amiss as to cause a racing engine - fast idling, yes, but not racing
like that.
Go get that pint!
Cheers, Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 7:42 AM
Subject: Too many revs
Some advice please, before I go down too many blind alleys in a quest of my
own.
Background:- I have a MkII BT7. It has 3 HD6s all apparently set up right
and, until just now, there were no fuel related problems. (that I knew of).
The symptoms:- I was giving the car a spin to see if there were any leaks in
the newly reconditioned/rebuilt radiator. I had a pint in mind, but was
primarily watching the gauges.
The revs suddenly increased, of their own volition, and stayed up around
4000+. Quite a problem in traffic.
What I did on the spot/have eliminated:-
1) The linkage from foot to carbs appears to be fine and the linkage goes
back to its stops when the pedal is off.
2) The revs remain at 4000+ even if the pedal is off, though one can
increase
them with the pedal.
3) Harking back to an earlier cock-up, I checked the vacuum hose from servo
to inlet manifold. (I think that leaving that off/holed allows more air into
system and hence more revs).
4) I took each dash pot off. All seems OK. The spindles appear to be closed
when the pedal is off.
5) I tapped each float chamber and am pretty sure that theyaren't playing
up.
Question:-
1) Help??
2) Where does one start? Fuel or air?
a) Surely the car can't get more fuel than one gives it? Assuming the carbs
haven't all gone berserk simultaneously!
b) Ditto the air...surely it can't start getting more air from somewhere
other than the intakes or the servo pipe which I think I've eliminated??
If anything else occurs, I'll post it on, but, in the meantime, I'd be glad
of advice.
Yours,
Simon.
p.s. the radiator seems fine! No apparent leaks and appears to be running
cooler with the presumably more effective modern core.
p.p.s. the original leak was where the core was soldered/brazed(?) to the
top.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:34:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas tank sender orientation
Dave Russell
SJNNOCK@aol.com wrote:
> Michael . Your gas tank sending unit is installed correctly with the float
> facing forwards , this allows the float to go down into the lowest part of
> the tank , ..Norman Nock
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 13:40:16 EST
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 13:59:27 -0500
Subject: Re: vintage races ?
The Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix is alive and well and gearing up for
its 21st year in 2003
The venue is Schenley Park, near downtown (or doun-toun for the locals)
with fairly easy access to the various viewing points and several car shows.
Saturday is British Car Day on the golf course with upwards of 500 cars,
trucks and bikes and a healthy contingent of Healeys. This is 'practice day'
for the racers. There are also other car shows scattered around the track.
This year is the 50th for the Corvette and rumor has it there will be many,
many (I heard one estimate of 1000!) 'Vette's' on hand.
Sunday is race day and the Three Rivers Austin Healey Club sponsors a
get together, with a tent and refreshments, on Flagstaff Hill, again close
to the track and easy ingress and egress.
More info at www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com or contact any officers
of the TRAHC or anyone who may have attended in the past. I can supply more
info if contacted directly as well.
See you there,
CB
cbaustin@sgi.net
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:06:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
I agree except for one thing: 45 ft/lb is risky - some of those old captive
nuts would be in danger - ask me how I know about that - helicoil time,
right?
I have chosen not to use a thread-locking compound. I check the shock mount
bolt torque at every oil change (twice a year) - 35 ft/lb with a torque
wrench. A couple of them usually move a bit. If I'm not mistaken, that is
the procedure that the dealers used as part of the regular servicing when
the cars were new. FYI, my shocks are mounted as original - spring
lockwasher only.
If I were to use the Locktite method, I would not use a lockwasher, but a
correctly sized thin flat washer only, and not too agressive Locktite - blue
would probably be fine. I seem to remember David Nock telling me that BCS
does that in their shop, and have not had problems. In some ways, it really
makes more sense - you now don't have to remember to torque the bolts.
Choices, choices ---------------!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
I have been quiet all this wondering the same. The bodies are Al which will
compress and if you loctite the bolt into the nut you won't know it's loose
until the shock is rattling around under it. It would seem torquing to 45lbs
a couple times a year would do the ticket. The rears should be kept tight as
well. They can mess up things pretty good if not kept snug, real
snug....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>; "Blue One Hundred"
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: <Drtrite@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
> Isn't using Loctite in this application kinda like spitting against the
> wind? Since the housings of these shocks are Al which will compress under
> the bolt head with time and especially shock operation, won't the bolt
work
> "loose" even though tight to the nut? Seems to me the only answer is
> periodic tightening . . .
>
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Since Loctite comes in many gradations, some of which will release at
> > 20 ft lbs of torque, I think the issue should be what type of Loctite
> > should be used. When tightening the shocks down, they will be torqued
> > to spec. Choosing the right Loctite will mean that the threads will
> > release at the same spec. If that amount of torque disturbs the tack
> > welds, too bad.
> >
> > -Roland
> >
> > On Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:52:19 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >
> > ::My point was if you get loctite on the threads of your
> > ::shock mounting bolts, you may put more stress on the
> > ::shock mount nuts than they were designed to take. If
> > ::one of those nuts breaks off from the shock mounting
> > ::plate, deep doo doo will ensue.
> > ::
> > ::Alan
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:06:59 EST
Subject: More on too many revs
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:15:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Yup, 2" added to the wheelbase is correct. They put it all in the door,
according to Geoff Healey - 'Austin-Healey, the Story of the Big Healeys.
I still seem to be having more trouble getting in and out these days - the
beer, I guess.
Ah, trivia!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Hi Steve,
I have never actually measured a door but I'm sure it is not as much as
6".
As I recall the wheelbase increased by 2" when the 100/6 was introduced
and that is probably what they added. Exactly where it was added I can't
say for sure.
Mike Orrit... time to get out that tape measure ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: 29-Mar-03 12:13 PM
To: Michael Salter; Healeys
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Mike & list,
I seem to remember the 6 cyl chassis has 6" added between the doors and
front wheels.
Is this true?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:29:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:42:51 EST
Subject: Re: More on too many revs
<< All pistons drop at same rate when engine is off so I guess this is a fuel
led problem rather than air. Make sense?? >>
hmmm, interesting.
Fuel alone won't cause the revs to go up appreciably. It would just get rich
and spew black smoke. With HD6's you could be getting way too much air from a
manifold leak, or idle screw. Are the choke screws touching the levers? It's
a no-no, but many people use those screws to set idle speed...
You've driven the car with this setup and suddenly it's revving up? got to be
either throttle plate is not closing or a manifold leak...
.02
Rick-just tuned HD6's a couple of days ago
San Diego
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:02:49 EST
Subject: Heater not wanted
In the interest of simplicity (and not wanting to deal with the old heater
just now!) is there ANY reason, short of losing some "originality", why I
cannot (at least temporarily) completely dispense with the heater system, by
blanking off the tap, removing the hoses, and the pipe above the carbs, and
the special upper radiator hose? Thanks in advance.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 13:22:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Dave Russell
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Are there any sounds associated with loose front shock bolts?
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:32:40 EST
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question and emergency repair
I got into this thread a bit late, so correct me if I am wrong, but I hope no
one out there actually thinks that you need to undo the four tabs on the back
side of the adjustable steering short stator tube! THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NOT
NECESSARY! I have sold two replacements to people over the years who have
done this and ruined a perfectly good piece for no good reason. It is almost
as tragic as ruining the large Bakelite piece on the trafficator by trying to
pry it off.
To properly remove the trafficator head from the stator tube, look at the
assembly from the side and you should see a thin plate sandwiched in the
middle which has a small tab, 3/16" square that is bent slightly down to lock
it in place. Simply bend this tab up a bit and then rotate it around until
from the back side of the stator tube until you can see the three small grub
screws that hold the trafficator assembly to the stator tube through the
three large holes on the back. Undo these three screws, pull the two pieces
apart and then you can detach the four wire leads from the back of the
trafficator.
If anyone has any further questions please e-mail or call me and I would be
glad to explain further, especially since I have run out of spare stator tube
assemblies to sell.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
760 434-5707
In a message dated 3/26/03 7:08:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
JNBrashear@garverengineers.com writes:
<< Hi Earl and Jim, Earl's right about the shorter stator tube being kinda
crimped to the clamp plate which is, in turn, held by the grub screws. I had
to tear into mine last year. The "Crimp" is actually four little tabs that
stick through four little slots and then are twisted a bit to bind them in
place. This holds the short stator tube and the control assembly together.
The little tabs will almost surely break off when you try to straighten them
to release the control assembly. There oughta be enough of the tabs left,
though, to properly relocate everything when you're ready to go back
together. I just put the short stator tube in a vise and held everything
together with my fingers while I made a VERY QUICK bead with my wire welder
where the tabs used to protrude through the little slots. This done, it'll
hold itself together while you make three other little beads. All this was
clean and neat and works like new. Anyway, it's better than shelling out for
a replacem!
ent. Lotsa Luck guys,
Jack >>
In a message dated 3/26/03 8:28:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
<< Earl is correct. I have one of these on my desk as I write this. The
short
section of tube is fastened to the bottom of the turn signal switch assembly
with 4 "tangs" that pass through slots in the flange on the top of the tube.
These tangs are bent over to secure the switch to the tube. >>
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 12:42:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Other than: The frame of the car hitting the ground, the tire hitting the
fender, your wife screaming at you, and the sound of lots of money fleeing
your wallet, no.
I recall a slight vagueness creeping into the steering and a bit more
'wander' - sort of ignored it for awhile until it got worse and worse and I
investigated - turned out to be the shock bolts loose as hell. I was lucky,
and didn't hear any of the above mentioned noises.
It really is an important safety consideration to make sure that those bolts
are properly tight
- they're holding up the front of the car!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Are there any sounds associated with loose front shock bolts?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:56:17 -0500
Subject: Vintage Races 2
See you there,
CB
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:59:08 EST
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:59:44 -0600
Subject: RE: Stator Tube question and emergency repair
-----Original Message-----
From: CNAArndt@aol.com [mailto:CNAArndt@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 2:33 PM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Cc: Earl Kagna; Jim Wood; John Snyder; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stator Tube question and emergency repair
Hi All,
I got into this thread a bit late, so correct me if I am wrong, but I hope no
one out there actually thinks that you need to undo the four tabs on the back
side of the adjustable steering short stator tube! THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NOT
NECESSARY! I have sold two replacements to people over the years who have
done this and ruined a perfectly good piece for no good reason. It is almost
as tragic as ruining the large Bakelite piece on the trafficator by trying to
pry it off.
To properly remove the trafficator head from the stator tube, look at the
assembly from the side and you should see a thin plate sandwiched in the
middle which has a small tab, 3/16" square that is bent slightly down to lock
it in place. Simply bend this tab up a bit and then rotate it around until
from the back side of the stator tube until you can see the three small grub
screws that hold the trafficator assembly to the stator tube through the
three large holes on the back. Undo these three screws, pull the two pieces
apart and then you can detach the four wire leads from the back of the
trafficator.
If anyone has any further questions please e-mail or call me and I would be
glad to explain further, especially since I have run out of spare stator tube
assemblies to sell.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
760 434-5707
In a message dated 3/26/03 7:08:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
JNBrashear@garverengineers.com writes:
<< Hi Earl and Jim, Earl's right about the shorter stator tube being kinda
crimped to the clamp plate which is, in turn, held by the grub screws. I had
to tear into mine last year. The "Crimp" is actually four little tabs that
stick through four little slots and then are twisted a bit to bind them in
place. This holds the short stator tube and the control assembly together.
The little tabs will almost surely break off when you try to straighten them
to release the control assembly. There oughta be enough of the tabs left,
though, to properly relocate everything when you're ready to go back
together. I just put the short stator tube in a vise and held everything
together with my fingers while I made a VERY QUICK bead with my wire welder
where the tabs used to protrude through the little slots. This done, it'll
hold itself together while you make three other little beads. All this was
clean and neat and works like new. Anyway, it's better than shelling out for
a replacem!
ent. Lotsa Luck guys,
Jack >>
In a message dated 3/26/03 8:28:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
<< Earl is correct. I have one of these on my desk as I write this. The
short
section of tube is fastened to the bottom of the turn signal switch assembly
with 4 "tangs" that pass through slots in the flange on the top of the tube.
These tangs are bent over to secure the switch to the tube. >>
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:00:39 -0600
Subject: vintage races ?
> I was wondering if anyone knows if they still have the Vintage races in
> Pittsburgh ? I think it used to be the first week in August and ran in
> Shenly Park . I think I have it spelled right . I was looking for a
> friend who would like to attend .
> Thanks in advance ,
> Rick Rinaldo
> 1963 BJ7
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 16:10:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Too many revs
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 16:14:22 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Float
> There is a bend to allow it to reach the bottom of the tank, if the arm is
> too straight it will hit the forward wall.
Charley--
I just changed my sender's orientation by 180 degrees--the arm is now
pointing forward and the sender terminal points aft. Maybe this will
improve my gas mileage. Many thanks to Normal Nock and all those who set me
straight.
Best--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 16:20:08 EST
Subject: 4-6 cylinder dimensions
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 16:55:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 17:01:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Too many revs
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:34:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
"I would like to know what model(s) Healey would accommodate me best?
I'm 6'-2", 215 lbs."
Any Big Healey would be fine (as long as your arms are about 13 inches long ;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:36 AM
Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Being rather un-educated on all things Healey MGB's accommodate
> with no problem, other than the headrail of the windshield is directly in the
> line of sight (does one slouch down or peer over?)
> Hugh
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 16:38:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:36 AM
Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Being rather un-educated on all things Healey I would like to know what
model
> (s) Healey would accommodate me best? I'm 6'-2", 215 lbs. MGB's
accommodate
> with no problem, other than the headrail of the windshield is directly in
the
> line of sight (does one slouch down or peer over?)
> Hugh
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 19:54:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
Ed says:
<<As much as I love my BJ7,>>
Me also.
<< I have to say it is cramped quarters for my 6'1"
195 lb. bod.>>
I don't think so and I am same in measurements "described".
<< It seems the convertibles (BJ7 & BJ8) have less leg and arm
room than the roadsters due to the folding top mechanism behind the front
seat backs, which prevents the seats from being able to move as far rearward
as those in the roadsters.>>
You must have the absolute dam*est arrangement in the world!!! Mine "hood"
folds behind the two "rear" +2 "seats" and has absolutely nothing to do with
driver and/or navigator seat(s) by about 30 inches?!?!?
I drive a buddy's TriCarb also and the arm length AND the leg length is
absolutely NOT different. Range of movement of seat (driver seat only because
that's the only one I have tried) is EXACTLY the same.
If you would like some pics put up on a web site to show your "interesting"
car and it's cockpit, please send direct to ed@justbrits.com.
And I do NOT feel "cramped" and have done over 70K miles with about half being
alone and have enjoyed every second of those trips!! Giving serious thought
to going to Sprite Spree '03 on the east side of Harrisburg soon and I am SW
of Chicago. So your point would be??<G> Been to DC four times from here.
Only once with better half<G>!!
http://www.justbrits.com/DC3_1.jpg is me and Hortense in Reston, VA.
http://www.justbrits.com/DC2_12.jpg is Me at Healey Surgeons (with Cindy) in
Takoma Park, MD.
NEVER felt "cramped". Never felt "alone".
Me and Hortense!!
What more could a guy ask for??
Best............
Ed
"63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healy)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at: www.justbrits.com "
Regards.............
Rick
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 21:01:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater not wanted
If the heater is in operation (liquid flowing through) heat is dissapated.
In order to add a slight gain in cooling and also keep the passages near the
tap and the copper line clear, I would suggest just running a short length
of hose from the tap over to the copper line. Be sure to use the orig clamps
so it looks like it came that way from the factory! :)
Speaking of which does anyone know what the configuration is of those which
did come from the factory without heater?
Keith Pennell
> List,
>
> In the interest of simplicity (and not wanting to deal with the old heater
> just now!) is there ANY reason, short of losing some "originality", why I
> cannot (at least temporarily) completely dispense with the heater system,
by
> blanking off the tap, removing the hoses, and the pipe above the carbs,
and
> the special upper radiator hose? Thanks in advance.
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From Joel and Pamela Holmes <holmes at mcn.org>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 19:42:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Recommendations-Non Healey
Joel Holmes
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 23:03:36 EST
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S.H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 21:36:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
Bill Lawrence
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
> I have never actually measured a door but I'm sure it is not as much as
> 6".
>
> As I recall the wheelbase increased by 2" when the 100/6 was introduced
> and that is probably what they added. Exactly where it was added I can't
> say for sure.
>
> Mike Orrit... time to get out that tape measure ;-)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
> Sent: 29-Mar-03 12:13 PM
> To: Michael Salter; Healeys
> Subject: Re: Frame Dimensions Puzzler
>
> Mike & list,
> I seem to remember the 6 cyl chassis has 6" added between the doors and
> front wheels.
> Is this true?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 23:48:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gas tanks
I've seen gas tanks where the pickup fitting was more
than 1" away from the location as compared to several
random orig tanks. I've seen other new tanks that fit
but were thinner and held less fuel. I say those
differences are beyond the tolerances of our "hand
made" vehicles. I also would like to buy a new gas
tank that fits like an original (and not like one that
someone is trying to rid on EBAY).
So in conclusion, many people have stories of poor
fit, quality or reliability. Some may be exaggerated
but many others are certainly not.
Thanks for reading!
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 23:58:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:30:08 -0800
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Isn't using Loctite in this application kinda like
spitting against the wind? Since the housings of
these shocks are Al which will compress under
the bolt head with time and especially shock
operation, won't the bolt work "loose" even though
tight to the nut? Seems to me the only answer is
periodic tightening . . .
My .02
Keith Pennell
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 08:40:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Another Shock Mount Issue, was Loctite & front shocks
As I think about it, I really don't think I over-torqued them in the first
place. wonder it the nuts are not good quality?
Anyone else have that problem?
tom
>EARL , Check in my Tech Talk book on page 182 , on my car I wired them , as
>was done on race cars in the 50's Norman Nock
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 08:41:38 EST
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 3/29/03 9:57:04 PM, WebmasterRick@attbi.com writes:
<<And I do NOT feel "cramped" and have done over 70K miles with about half
being
alone and have enjoyed every second of those trips!! >>
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:45:50 EST
Subject: Havelock, NC
Funny how I can remember Havelock.NC, but can't remember who's the member
that lives there.
I'm on vacation near Wilmington, NC and I noticed that Havelock isn't too
far.
Is that where our esteemed Mr. Byers lives ?
Anyone on list that is in the area ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI (temporarily displaced to NC)
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 10:13:10 EST
Subject: Too many revs...solved, until the next one.
Don't ask me how it got out of line....if insurance companies can cite Acts
of God, why can't I?
Thank you Earl; I had my pint(s).
Simon.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:30:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
I am 6' 0' and around 200 lbs, I fit fine in my 54 100, however, getting in
and out with the top up and headroom with the top up is tight (if there is
any "poof" in my hair it rubs the roof).
I put thinner wood under the seat runners to get a little more clearence,
got maybe an extra 1/2 inch still tight.
My solution is to avoid driving with the top up if at all possible, but if
it rains on a road trip it sometimes can't be avoided.
I have read on the list that repro seat padding may be to thick or not
"smusshy" enough, maybe that is my problem, none of the contemporary raod
test that I have read complained of head room, but they weren't very
critical in road tests in those days.
A freind from our club is very tall, 6'6" maybe more. He has a hundred as
well, but has had it specially modified so the seat slides back farther, you
can make about anything work if you have the right combination of time will
and resources. John, I know you lurk out there sometimes, feel free to
expand or set the record straight if I didn't get it right.
Greg Lemon
54 BN!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:33:53 -0600
Subject: Shock Mount Issue - Torque Specification
The correct torque specification for a mild steel 3/8" bolt is 28-30
pounds/feet. Generally, it is the bolt that stretches beyond the
specification but with a standard cross-section nut, the threads can be
stripped as well. You over-tightened the original bolts.
If you redrilled and tapped at 7/16", a torque setting of 40-45 pounds feet
is acceptable for the bolt but now the wall of the nut is thin. The nut
may be prone to cracking in the location where it is not supported by a
spot weld to the shock mount.
Using a flat washer with a lock washer defeats the purpose of the lock
washer. The flat washer can spin on the flat surface opposite of the lock
washer.
Norman Nock has one correct solution - safety wire the bolts. The other
option is to cut open the tower and replace the little nuts with either a
welded in hardened steel plate that is drilled and tapped or with extended
hardened nuts that are welded in place.
In my car, I fabricated a box out of the top of the shock mount in which a
hardened steel plate is captured. The box allows the plate to move in and
out to adjust the camber. The plate is fixed in any desired position by
jack screws on the engine side and wheel sides of the box. The shock bolts
mount through slots in the top of the box and screw into the captured plate.
The bolts can be safety wired or use blue "serviceable" locktite.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
>re-tapped to a larger bolt and snugged them down to 40 lbs.
>
>As I think about it, I really don't think I over-torqued them in the first
>place. wonder it the nuts are not good quality?
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 07:46:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
::A further anxiety about this: If you put the loctite on these bolts, and
::then retorque, don't you wind up breaking the loctite bond? Jim Wojcik
::----- Original Message -----
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 10:05:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Too many revs...solved, until the next one.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:26:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
Going to disgree with you a bit here Bob.
I'm pretty sure that the seat mount holes are in the same location in
relation to the pedal box in all of the 6 cyl. cars (don't know if this is
true of the 100's), and the seat rail assembly is the same for all. This
would indicate that legroom is the same. There are minor differences in
available width between the side-shift and centre-shift cars - the
transmission cover is shaped slighty differently.
The two convertibles give the illusion of being a bit more crowded with the
rear quarter trim panels and folding top mechanism being so prominent to the
rear. Also, the door top rails slightly decrease shoulder room. The BJ8
gives the illusion of the space being tighter yet - the larger dash and the
console / armrest seem to be a bit more confining, but the actual room in
the car is pretty much the same.
My wife is of the opinion that the BJ8 seats are quite a bit more
comfortable - she has a point - we've done lots of travelling in both
Healeys. The hard parts are the same (pretty much) as in the earlier cars,
but the covers have quite different padding.
Hugh, if you're comfortable in an MGB, you should be fine in almost any
Healey model, and you won't notice the windshield headrail anywhere near as
much - it's in a physically different relataionship. I'm a lot shorter that
you, and it's still a problem for me in our 'B' - it's pretty characteristic
of the MGB.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
'77 MGB roadster
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
Hugh,
As much as I love my BJ7, I have to say it is cramped quarters for my 6'1"
195 lb. bod. It seems the convertibles (BJ7 & BJ8) have less leg and arm
room than the roadsters due to the folding top mechanism behind the front
seat backs, which prevents the seats from being able to move as far rearward
as those in the roadsters.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:36 AM
Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Being rather un-educated on all things Healey I would like to know what
model
> (s) Healey would accommodate me best? I'm 6'-2", 215 lbs. MGB's
accommodate
> with no problem, other than the headrail of the windshield is directly in
the
> line of sight (does one slouch down or peer over?)
> Hugh
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 12:35:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Havelock, NC
Yes.
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 10:18:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:05:03 -0400
Subject: Rim Size
I'd like to get some corroborating evidence. Anybody got a 5 1/2" rim
without a tire on it who would mind measuring the total width from flange
edge to flange edge to see if I'm right? The measurements of any width rim
would help as long as I know the width you're talking about.
Thanks
Rick Swain
'59 BN4 (after a winter of taking the car completely apart and having the
frame blasted, welded and painted we finally started putting things back
together this past week. The wheels should go back on tomorrow. I'm getting
excited)
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:10:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Roland Wilhelmy
To: Jim Wojcik
Cc: Keith Pennell ; Blue One Hundred ; Drtrite@aol.com ;
healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Loctite & front shocks
Yes if the bolt moves tighter at the torque you have set it to. And
then you pull the bolt, apply a drop of loctite and retorque.
-Roland
On Sun, 30 Mar 2003 01:08:45 -0600, you wrote:
::A further anxiety about this: If you put the loctite on these bolts, and
::then retorque, don't you wind up breaking the loctite bond? Jim Wojcik
::----- Original Message -----
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:14:40 -0500
Subject: Horn & Wiper Motor Details
Is the horn on a BN4 painted all over, or are bits and pieces left unpainted,
such as the center nut and the screws?
Does anyone know what color the wiper motor should be? Again, are all parts
of the wiper motor assembly painted, or is just the motor case itself painted
& the rest of the assembly bare metal?
Thanks!
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 15:22:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Rim Size
From: "Rick Swain"
Subject: Rim Size
> I have 72 spoke chrome wire wheels on my Healey. I only have four and want
> to order a fifth for a spare. Trouble is I don't know the rim width and
> don't want to remove a tire to take measurements if I can avoid it. The
> distance from the outer edges of one flange to the edge on the opposite
side
> is 6 3/4". The measurement from there to the outside of the rim seating (if
> you see what I mean) is a bit under half an inch. Thickness of the rim
steel
> is a little over 1/8". Total of those two measurements is close to 5/8". If
> I double that and subtract from 6 3/4 I get about 5 1/2". I'm guessing my
> rim width is 5 1/2".
>
> I'd like to get some corroborating evidence. Anybody got a 5 1/2" rim
> without a tire on it who would mind measuring the total width from flange
> edge to flange edge to see if I'm right? The measurements of any width rim
> would help as long as I know the width you're talking about.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> '59 BN4 (after a winter of taking the car completely apart and having the
> frame blasted, welded and painted we finally started putting things back
> together this past week. The wheels should go back on tomorrow. I'm getting
> excited)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:43:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Rim Size
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:58:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Rim Size
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:09:32 -0500
Subject: Re: PVGP 2003 - Sunday
Anyone planning to attend PVGP 2003 might want to enter British Car Day
on Saturday (19Jul); if you don't get an application, or are new to the
event, please let me know and I'll forward one. These are usually sent out
in late May so don't be too anxious.
There will be a Healey gathering on Flagstaff Hill on Sunday (20Jul),
parking is $5.00 per car (if this changes I'll alert the list) and you can
leave the area whenever you wish. Entrance/Exit is off of Forbes Avenue, go
behind the Carnegie Museum to the foot of Flagstaff Hill, opposite Phipps
Conservatory. Bring or plan your own food and refreshments. There will be a
private party in the same area as the Healey Tent, but this party will not
be directly involved with the general Healey activities. From the tent site
it is 200 yards, or so, to the race track area at the 'Panther Hollow
Bridge'. As with Saturday, there is shuttle service (free) to other areas of
the race track.
See you-all there.
In addition, I handle vintage PVGP items for the committee. If anyone is
looking for race related memorabilia from past years (posters, programs,
pins, dash plaques, etc.) give me a shout. All proceeds go to the Charities,
same as the race week proceeds.
Regards,
CB
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:45:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Rim Size
All big healeys left the factory with painted wheels. (There were probably
a few cars that did get chrome wheels). All 100-4, 100-6 and early 3000 cars
had 15 x 4" 48 spoke wheels, the later 3000's 15 x 4.5" 60 spoke wheels.
The change point was in June, 1963, during BJ7 production.
As you learn about Healeys and their owners, you will quickly realise that
many of us change wheels - chrome 60's, painted or chrome 72's, Minilite's,
etc. etc.
A lot of us who stay with wire wheels will run the 72's simply because they
are a stronger wheel, and require little or no maintenance over the years,
whereas it doesn't take much for a 48 to loosen up a bit and go out of true.
With 5 1/2's, there may be problems with the fit of the spare, particularly
on the 2 - seat cars, and of course, depending on the tire that is mounted.
You'r on a steep learning curve, indeed! - having fun yet?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
Both on 72 spoke chrome 5" wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
To: "Rick Swain" <grain@auracom.com>; "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Rim Size
Well now I am confused. Rick says he has 72 spoke wires on his car, a '59
BN4. And me being new to Healeys I do some research on the net and come up
with information, you do that when you want to learn. So I go to
http://www.gbclassiccars.co.uk/austin_healey_100_6.html that says this
converts to a '59 100/6, a 2+2 car. OK I can understand that much but then
some other pieces of information at,
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/wheels.html and,
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/wheels.htm say that this car should be
riding
on 15x4, 48 spoke wire wheels. Hummmmm I think to myself, what's up here,
lots of spokes on those wheels, enough for a 100s or a 3000? But then they
would be anywhere from 15"x5" to 15"x6" according to the info on line. Does
Rick's car have original size wheels? I guess that's the problem with being
new to a subject, Healeys, I have a lot to learn. Or perhaps thru the years
a
lot of parts have been swapped around from car to car?
Hugh
From: "Rick Swain"
Subject: Rim Size
> I have 72 spoke chrome wire wheels on my Healey. I only have four and want
> to order a fifth for a spare. Trouble is I don't know the rim width and
> don't want to remove a tire to take measurements if I can avoid it. The
> distance from the outer edges of one flange to the edge on the opposite
side
> is 6 3/4". The measurement from there to the outside of the rim seating
(if
> you see what I mean) is a bit under half an inch. Thickness of the rim
steel
> is a little over 1/8". Total of those two measurements is close to 5/8".
If
> I double that and subtract from 6 3/4 I get about 5 1/2". I'm guessing my
> rim width is 5 1/2".
>
> I'd like to get some corroborating evidence. Anybody got a 5 1/2" rim
> without a tire on it who would mind measuring the total width from flange
> edge to flange edge to see if I'm right? The measurements of any width rim
> would help as long as I know the width you're talking about.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> '59 BN4 (after a winter of taking the car completely apart and having the
> frame blasted, welded and painted we finally started putting things back
> together this past week. The wheels should go back on tomorrow. I'm
getting
> excited)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:41:28 -0500
Subject: Name that part contest #2
Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
We need a part number
Application
Description
To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:54:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations (long)
I have a Brookland Books publication which contains a number of reprints of
road test articles from The Motor and Autocar magazines, quotes from which
follow below. The dimensions stated in each case are measured from the
clutch/brake pedal surfaces to the upper front edge of the driver's seat
cushion, with the seat at each end of its travel.
The Motor, Road Test No. 25/60, 1960 MKI BT7: 19-1/2 to 24-1/2 inches.
The Motor, Road Test No. 26/61, 1962 MKII BT7: 19 to 24 inches.
Autocar, December 22, 1961, 1961 MKII BT7: 21 to 26 inches.
Autocar, October 12, 1062, BJ7: 17 to 21 inches.
The Motor, Road Test No. 14/63, April 10, 1963, BJ7: 18-1/2 to 22-1/2
inches.
Motor, March 28, 1964, BJ8: 19-1/4 to 21-1/4 inches.
Autocar, June 12, 1964, BJ8: 18-1/2 to 21-1/2 inches.
Though somewhat inconsistent, these measurements suggest that the BJ7/BJ8
convertibles may indeed have "about" 3 inches less maximum leg (and arm)
room than the roadsters. (The range of adjustment fore and aft -- in the
neighborhood of 3-5 inches -- is not in question here.)
The comparable measurements in my BJ7 are 18-1/2 to 21-1/2 inches. In the
full rearward position, the seat back is firmly against the rear quarter
trim panel which, as Earl implies, protrudes further into the cockpit area
than
in the roadsters because of the HOOD mechanism that it encloses.
I don't happen to have a roadster handy to measure. Perhaps someone could
take measurements in theirs to see how they compare with those above and
share them with us. It really shouldn't be all that difficult to verify if
there is a difference or not.
Applicable parts of prior messages are included below for reference.
Bob (taking cover)
==================================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:36 AM
> Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> > Being rather un-educated on all things Healey I would like to know what
> model
> > (s) Healey would accommodate me best? I'm 6'-2", 215 lbs. MGB's
> accommodate
> > with no problem, other than the headrail of the windshield is directly
in
> the
> > line of sight (does one slouch down or peer over?)
> > Hugh
> From: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
> To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Hugh,
> As much as I love my BJ7, I have to say it is cramped quarters for my
6'1"
> 195 lb. bod. It seems the convertibles (BJ7 & BJ8) have less leg and arm
> room than the roadsters due to the folding top mechanism behind the front
> seat backs, which prevents the seats from being able to move as far
rearward
> as those in the roadsters.
> Bob
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>; "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Bob:
> Ed says:
> You must have the absolute dam*est arrangement in the world!!! Mine
"hood"
> folds behind the two "rear" +2 "seats" and has absolutely nothing to do
with
> driver and/or navigator seat(s) by about 30 inches?!?!?
> I drive a buddy's TriCarb also and the arm length AND the leg length is
> absolutely NOT different. Range of movement of seat (driver seat only
because
> that's the only one I have tried) is EXACTLY the same.
> If you would like some pics put up on a web site to show your
"interesting"
> car and it's cockpit, please send direct to ed@justbrits.com.
> And I do NOT feel "cramped" and have done over 70K miles with about half
being
> alone and have enjoyed every second of those trips!! Giving serious
thought
> to going to Sprite Spree '03 on the east side of Harrisburg soon and I am
SW
> of Chicago. So your point would be??<G> Been to DC four times from here.
> Only once with better half<G>!!
> Ed
> "63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healy)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ yrs)
> Member, AHCUSA
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
Cc: <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> Bob, Hugh:
> Going to disgree with you a bit here Bob.
> I'm pretty sure that the seat mount holes are in the same location in
> relation to the pedal box in all of the 6 cyl. cars (don't know if this is
> true of the 100's), and the seat rail assembly is the same for all. This
> would indicate that legroom is the same. > Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
> '77 MGB roadster
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:01:27 -0600
Subject: Houston radiator repair?
This is probably the third time I have asked this question, but my saved
emails are on a now dead computer. I need to have my BJ8 radiator recored,
and I know a few of the Gulf Coast Healey club guys have had theirs done
locally with a 3 core replacement. Can someone tell me where they had that
work done?
Thanks again,
Chris
BJ8
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From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:14:49 -0700
Subject: Name that part contest #2
>
> Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
>
>
> We need a part number
>
> Application
>
> Description
>
> To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
>
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:22:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations (long)
From: "R. Poague"
> Despite Ed's ridicule and Earl's as-always courteous contribution, I
believe
> there is still some question about the relative seat positions of the 3000
> roadsters and convertibles that should be pursued before this thread dies
> away.
>
> I have a Brookland Books publication which contains a number of reprints
of
> road test articles from The Motor and Autocar magazines, quotes from which
> follow below. The dimensions stated in each case are measured from the
> clutch/brake pedal surfaces to the upper front edge of the driver's seat
> cushion, with the seat at each end of its travel.
>
> The Motor, Road Test No. 25/60, 1960 MKI BT7: 19-1/2 to 24-1/2 inches.
> The Motor, Road Test No. 26/61, 1962 MKII BT7: 19 to 24 inches.
> Autocar, December 22, 1961, 1961 MKII BT7: 21 to 26 inches.
> Autocar, October 12, 1062, BJ7: 17 to 21 inches.
> The Motor, Road Test No. 14/63, April 10, 1963, BJ7: 18-1/2 to 22-1/2
> inches.
> Motor, March 28, 1964, BJ8: 19-1/4 to 21-1/4 inches.
> Autocar, June 12, 1964, BJ8: 18-1/2 to 21-1/2 inches.
>
> Though somewhat inconsistent, these measurements suggest that the BJ7/BJ8
> convertibles may indeed have "about" 3 inches less maximum leg (and arm)
> room than the roadsters. (The range of adjustment fore and aft -- in the
> neighborhood of 3-5 inches -- is not in question here.)
>
> The comparable measurements in my BJ7 are 18-1/2 to 21-1/2 inches. In the
> full rearward position, the seat back is firmly against the rear quarter
> trim panel which, as Earl implies, protrudes further into the cockpit area
> than
> in the roadsters because of the HOOD mechanism that it encloses.
>
> I don't happen to have a roadster handy to measure. Perhaps someone could
> take measurements in theirs to see how they compare with those above and
> share them with us. It really shouldn't be all that difficult to verify if
> there is a difference or not.
>
> Applicable parts of prior messages are included below for reference.
>
> Bob (taking cover)
> ==================================================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:36 AM
> > Subject: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> > > Being rather un-educated on all things Healey I would like to know
what
> > model
> > > (s) Healey would accommodate me best? I'm 6'-2", 215 lbs. MGB's
> > accommodate
> > > with no problem, other than the headrail of the windshield is directly
> in
> > the
> > > line of sight (does one slouch down or peer over?)
> > > Hugh
>
> > From: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
> > To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 4:38 PM
> > Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> > Hugh,
> > As much as I love my BJ7, I have to say it is cramped quarters for my
> 6'1"
> > 195 lb. bod. It seems the convertibles (BJ7 & BJ8) have less leg and arm
> > room than the roadsters due to the folding top mechanism behind the
front
> > seat backs, which prevents the seats from being able to move as far
> rearward
> > as those in the roadsters.
> > Bob
>
> From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
> To: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>; "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 5:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> > Bob:
> > Ed says:
> > You must have the absolute dam*est arrangement in the world!!! Mine
> "hood"
> > folds behind the two "rear" +2 "seats" and has absolutely nothing to do
> with
> > driver and/or navigator seat(s) by about 30 inches?!?!?
> > I drive a buddy's TriCarb also and the arm length AND the leg length is
> > absolutely NOT different. Range of movement of seat (driver seat only
> because
> > that's the only one I have tried) is EXACTLY the same.
> > If you would like some pics put up on a web site to show your
> "interesting"
> > car and it's cockpit, please send direct to ed@justbrits.com.
> > And I do NOT feel "cramped" and have done over 70K miles with about half
> being
> > alone and have enjoyed every second of those trips!! Giving serious
> thought
> > to going to Sprite Spree '03 on the east side of Harrisburg soon and I
am
> SW
> > of Chicago. So your point would be??<G> Been to DC four times from
here.
>
> > Only once with better half<G>!!
> > Ed
> > "63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healy)
> > Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ yrs)
> > Member, AHCUSA
>
>
> From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net>
> Cc: <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:26 AM
> Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
> > Bob, Hugh:
> > Going to disgree with you a bit here Bob.
> > I'm pretty sure that the seat mount holes are in the same location in
> > relation to the pedal box in all of the 6 cyl. cars (don't know if this
is
> > true of the 100's), and the seat rail assembly is the same for all.
This
> > would indicate that legroom is the same. > Cheers,
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B. C. Canada
> > '62 BT7 tri-carb
> > '67 BJ8
> > '77 MGB roadster
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 21:31:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
These hold the relief tube for the co-driver of a factory 3000 rally car.
Bob Denton
Bruce Starke wrote:
> I believe those are the clips that hold the fuel line which connects the
> front and centre carbs on a tricarb.
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
>
> >
> > Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
> >
> > http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
> >
> >
> > We need a part number
> >
> > Application
> >
> > Description
> >
> > To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
> >
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 21:56:59 -0500
Subject: Re: PVGP 2003 - Sunday
Charley Braum wrote:
> Charlie and list,
>
> Anyone planning to attend PVGP 2003 might want to enter British Car Day
> on Saturday (19Jul); if you don't get an application, or are new to the
> event, please let me know and I'll forward one. These are usually sent out
> in late May so don't be too anxious.
>
> There will be a Healey gathering on Flagstaff Hill on Sunday (20Jul),
> parking is $5.00 per car (if this changes I'll alert the list) and you can
> leave the area whenever you wish. Entrance/Exit is off of Forbes Avenue, go
> behind the Carnegie Museum to the foot of Flagstaff Hill, opposite Phipps
> Conservatory. Bring or plan your own food and refreshments. There will be a
> private party in the same area as the Healey Tent, but this party will not
> be directly involved with the general Healey activities. From the tent site
> it is 200 yards, or so, to the race track area at the 'Panther Hollow
> Bridge'. As with Saturday, there is shuttle service (free) to other areas of
> the race track.
>
> See you-all there.
>
> In addition, I handle vintage PVGP items for the committee. If anyone is
> looking for race related memorabilia from past years (posters, programs,
> pins, dash plaques, etc.) give me a shout. All proceeds go to the Charities,
> same as the race week proceeds.
>
> Regards,
>
> CB
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:01:46 -0700
Subject: Salter's puzzle
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:06:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Rim Size
Anything other than the old 48 spoke rim with a glass
ply tire or 165-15 will not fit very well as a spare
in the trunk...
If you go to 72 spoke (most have 5.5 inch rim widths),
you'll have to put an undersized tire on the thing to
fit in the trunk in your BN4. Not only will it look
wrong, but it will be unsafe.
Better to put the right sized tire on a 48 spoke
rim... it'll run better, be safer, and fit better in
the trunk. It'll work just fine as a spare....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com> wrote:
> I have 72 spoke chrome wire wheels on my Healey. I
> only have four and want
> to order a fifth for a spare. Trouble is I don't
> know the rim width and
> don't want to remove a tire to take measurements if
> I can avoid it. The
> distance from the outer edges of one flange to the
> edge on the opposite side
> is 6 3/4". The measurement from there to the outside
> of the rim seating (if
> you see what I mean) is a bit under half an inch.
> Thickness of the rim steel
> is a little over 1/8". Total of those two
> measurements is close to 5/8". If
> I double that and subtract from 6 3/4 I get about 5
> 1/2". I'm guessing my
> rim width is 5 1/2".
>
> I'd like to get some corroborating evidence. Anybody
> got a 5 1/2" rim
> without a tire on it who would mind measuring the
> total width from flange
> edge to flange edge to see if I'm right? The
> measurements of any width rim
> would help as long as I know the width you're
> talking about.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> '59 BN4 (after a winter of taking the car completely
> apart and having the
> frame blasted, welded and painted we finally started
> putting things back
> together this past week. The wheels should go back
> on tomorrow. I'm getting
> excited)
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 23:18:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
If I knew what these were my friend and I would have already installed them
on his BJ7 undergoing resto! Right now they are sitting in the "odds and
ends" cup!
Even more seriously I can't wait to find out what they are so we can put
them on/in.
Keith Pennell
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
>
>
> We need a part number
>
> Application
>
> Description
>
> To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
>
>
> Mike Salter
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 00:11:41 -0500
Subject: BN1 "Flasher Can"
Where is the "flasher can" mounted on the BN1: engine side of firewall or
cockpit side of firewall? Mine is currently mounted on the engine side but I
have seen some pictures of others where it appears to be on the cockpit
side.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 21:15:23 -0800
Subject: safe places to bolt the chain
> If not, what other places have people used to attach a chain.
I can tell you one place NOT to attach the chain. It comes from way
back in my youthfull learning curve. (read stupidity)
I was replacing the rear end in a '54 Mercury. (sorry list).
I used a chain hoist hitched to a beam in the garage and hooked onto the bumper.
Lifted the whole back of the car right up so I could sit under the car
and work on the bolts, shocks, universal, brake lines etc. Had the car
swinging back and forth over my head for most of the day, no chocks
under the front wheels.
(no jack stands either, not even cinderblocks under there with me that day).
Actually finished the job and replaced the axel in one long afternoon.
Replaced the wheels and started to lower the chain hoist when BING, the
hook up on the rafter let loose, the car crashed down the last foot or
so. Seems that the 1/2" cable that I had looped over the beam to hook
the hoist on was never tied off, only held together by a single bend in
the wire!
The vision of that happening earlier that day and folding me in half
like a worn dollar bill still lingers. Someone was watching over me that day.
Much older and sometimes wiser.
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
'59 MK1 (Jag)
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From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 00:56:18 EST
Subject: BN1 Tach/Speedo Cable Routing
I'm trying to figure out how to route the tach/speedo cables. I'd venture to
guess the cables must penetrate the transmission bulkhead, but the car did
not have one and I had to buy a replacement which has no holes. If someone
can describe the routing with the necessary details, I'd greatly appreciate
it. Thanks.
Best Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 23:23:34 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 "Flasher Can"
Michael E. Williams wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Where is the "flasher can" mounted on the BN1: engine side of firewall or
> cockpit side of firewall? Mine is currently mounted on the engine side but I
> have seen some pictures of others where it appears to be on the cockpit
> side.
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 00:42:26 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Tach/Speedo Cable Routing
The cables are simply squished (pinched) in the joint at the top of the
bulkhead. The metal is formed out a bit to make a passage way. About
five inches toward center from the LH side.
Dave Russell
BN2
CEWPlatt@aol.com wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I'm trying to figure out how to route the tach/speedo cables. I'd venture to
> guess the cables must penetrate the transmission bulkhead, but the car did
> not have one and I had to buy a replacement which has no holes. If someone
> can describe the routing with the necessary details, I'd greatly appreciate
> it. Thanks.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 10:12:05 +0200
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 08:59:04 EST
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
Since I'm down in beautiful NC (home of our registrar, Mr. Steve Byers) I'm
without books for the part number....
but, my guess is the choke cable holders for the BJ7/8 ....
please send my $5000 gift certificate direct to....
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, NC
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 10:22:47 -0500
Subject: flasher unit
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 11:36:59 EST
Subject: Re: Interior dimensions and accommodations
We also just finished modifying a 100/4 for a customer that some may have
seen at Lake tahoe last June. It was a Lobelia Blue over OEW with 100 S
seats. The owner of this car is about 6'8" and he wanted us to modify the
car so he could fit into the car.
So we removed the top, cut the rear bulkhead and moved it back to the rear
shocks on the drivers side. This allowed us to move the seat back about 4
inches so now the back of the seat is actually behind the door opening. We
also had to replace the foot box section on the car during the restoration so
we moved it forwards along with the pedals about 2 inches. We also
installed a Triumph Spitfire gas pedal assembly so to move the gas pedal
flush with the other pedals and over about 1".
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 11:37:44 EST
Subject: Re: flasher unit
<< I attached electronic buzzers to my flash, so I would know when they were
on. >>
I did too!!! However, they could not be heard over the engine , exhaust
noise (especially since I have side pipes). Back to the drawing board!
Larry Wysocki
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From "Ed Esslinger" <edstiger at charter.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 11:14:10 -0600
Subject: BUILD YOUR OWN
All the information on how to build one and WHY TO INSTALL ONE can be found
on the web site found below be sure to look at all the pages. It will take
about 3 hours to assemble. If you are interested please contact me off list.
Regards Ed
http://www.tigersunited.com/tech_tips/EsslingerWiper/rt-EsslingerWiper1.asp
Cool Cat Eddie ,1 S3 GT,3 S4's, 2 S5's, 2 MK1 Tigers
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:16:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Rim Size
I have five 72-spoke, 5.5-in. wide chrome rims with 185/70-15 tires on my
BN4. I had to make a new rod to hold the spare. The original rod will not
pull down to the leather strap because of the wider rim/tire, but the boot
lid closes just fine. You can make a new rod from 1/4-in. steel rod from
the hardware store and paint it satin black.
John, BN4
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:06:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rim Size
Rick -
Anything other than the old 48 spoke rim with a glass
ply tire or 165-15 will not fit very well as a spare
in the trunk...
If you go to 72 spoke (most have 5.5 inch rim widths),
you'll have to put an undersized tire on the thing to
fit in the trunk in your BN4. Not only will it look
wrong, but it will be unsafe.
Better to put the right sized tire on a 48 spoke
rim... it'll run better, be safer, and fit better in
the trunk. It'll work just fine as a spare....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
- --- Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com> wrote:
> I have 72 spoke chrome wire wheels on my Healey. I
> only have four and want
> to order a fifth for a spare. Trouble is I don't
> know the rim width and
> don't want to remove a tire to take measurements if
> I can avoid it. The
> distance from the outer edges of one flange to the
> edge on the opposite side
> is 6 3/4". The measurement from there to the outside
> of the rim seating (if
> you see what I mean) is a bit under half an inch.
> Thickness of the rim steel
> is a little over 1/8". Total of those two
> measurements is close to 5/8". If
> I double that and subtract from 6 3/4 I get about 5
> 1/2". I'm guessing my
> rim width is 5 1/2".
>
> I'd like to get some corroborating evidence. Anybody
> got a 5 1/2" rim
> without a tire on it who would mind measuring the
> total width from flange
> edge to flange edge to see if I'm right? The
> measurements of any width rim
> would help as long as I know the width you're
> talking about.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:26:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater not wanted
For a long time I just routed a hose from the tap through the firewall, back
out to the pipe above the carbs with no heater attached. It was much easier
than removing all the other stuff and unless you looked under the dash, it
looked like I still had a heater. Now that the heater is restored, it's
back in place, but it still doesn't do much good.
John, BN4
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:02:49 EST
From: RAHosmer@aol.com
Subject: Heater not wanted
List,
In the interest of simplicity (and not wanting to deal with the old heater
just now!) is there ANY reason, short of losing some "originality", why I
cannot (at least temporarily) completely dispense with the heater system, by
blanking off the tap, removing the hoses, and the pipe above the carbs, and
the special upper radiator hose? Thanks in advance.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:01:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
The parts do not seem to be shown in the parts manual for BJ7 and BJ8, exactly
(Manual AKD3523, Plate D1). The illustration shows a similar clip, item
number 37 (part number PCR1007), but it is indicated as applicable to Engine
29K/H101 and 29KFA/H224 (BJ8 engines), and only one clip is required (no
"right" or "left", either). No equivalent part(s) is/are identified for
BJ7s.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter
To: 'healeys'
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: Name that part contest #2
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
We need a part number
Application
Description
To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 20:24:23 -0800
Subject: Lost Starting Nut
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:51:16 -0600
Subject: BJ8 switch panel covering
I plan on doing my interior in dark blue. Is the metal panel between the
wood dash halves supposed to be covered in black vinyl, or should it match
the rest of the interior color?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:02:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Name that part contest #2
You are correct Magnus hit the answer right on. These clips seem to be
unique to some BJ7s and as far as I can tell are not mentioned in the
Parts List.
There is mention of a 12H1001 which looks similar (although there are
not left and right) but this was reputedly fitted only to BJ8s after
HBJ8 41930 sold in Benelux and France.. (Musta been a heap of those!!)
See them here :
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/BJ7FHC.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/BJ7FHC2.jpg
Magnus gets the prize..
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: 31-Mar-03 6:01 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
I think Magnus Karlsson hit the identification dead on. My derelict BJ7
has
these parts still attached to the flexible fuel hose that runs between
the
fuel line and the carburetors and they are exactly as pictured at Mike's
website, including the "right" and "left" radii on the fastener corners.
The parts do not seem to be shown in the parts manual for BJ7 and BJ8,
exactly
(Manual AKD3523, Plate D1). The illustration shows a similar clip,
item
number 37 (part number PCR1007), but it is indicated as applicable to
Engine
29K/H101 and 29KFA/H224 (BJ8 engines), and only one clip is required (no
"right" or "left", either). No equivalent part(s) is/are identified
for
BJ7s.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter
To: 'healeys'
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: Name that part contest #2
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Ok all you Healey guri out there what are these little clips for?
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Topview.jpg
We need a part number
Application
Description
To win the prize that hasn't been determined yet. :-)
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:12:35 EST
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
There are slight variations of them. On some models they are attached to the
carb, on most they are attached to the vertical support for the shroud by the
brake reservoir. That's why they appear to be "handed"
Rick
San Diego.
In a message dated 3/31/03 4:05:37 PM, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
<< You are correct Magnus hit the answer right on. These clips seem to be
unique to some BJ7s and as far as I can tell are not mentioned in the
Parts List. >>
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Richard Rinaldo" <rico1969@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:13:05 EST
Subject: Re: Differential number
Thanks in advancej.
Ned Paulsen
60 BN7
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:00:02 -0500
Subject: BN1 "Flasher Can"
> Listers,
>
> Where is the "flasher can" mounted on the BN1: engine side of firewall or
> cockpit side of firewall? Mine is currently mounted on the engine side but
I
> have seen some pictures of others where it appears to be on the cockpit
> side.
>
> --Michael
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:43:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
Ed says:
"Nope.
A] They are on backwards and with an incorrect hose.
B] Prior to seeing this note I sent you "proper pics" and copy of that note
to you with links is below.
C] I was still FIRST to ID and you said:
"Need the rest of the information before judging can commence ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com"
I win!!
Best.................
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)"
Hope you can (er?) mediate this???
Rick:)
*******************************************************
e-mail to Mike S. read:
http://www.justbrits.com/1.JPG
http://www.justbrits.com/2.JPG
http://www.justbrits.com/3.JPG
http://www.justbrits.com/4.JPG
I'll get a reg. page up tomorrow, Mike.
Could NOT find a Part#<F>!
Ed
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:47:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Differential number
I think that it is stamped on the center section, on a front horizontal
surface just in front of the ring of bolts that hold the center section
& slightly to the LH side of center. It should have two numbers such as
41/10. The larger number divided by the smaller number is the ratio. Eg.
4.1.
Dave Russell
BN2
NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> My speedometer is far off in its reading and the fellow who is going to
> adjust asked what the rear end ration is. He said it should be stamped on
> the differential. Could anyone tell me exactly where I could find that
> number?
>
> Thanks in advancej.
> Ned Paulsen
> 60 BN7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:51:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Lost Starting Nut
Happy Healeying,
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 10:24 PM
Subject: Lost Starting Nut
> I recall seeing a lot of talk a few weeks back about how hard it is to
> get a frozen Starting Nut off. Well this weekend my starting nut came
> off all by it self, while I was sitting at a stop light. I heard a
> funny noise but couldn't tell where it came from and as soon as I
> started at the green light I heard my new radiator being destroyed.
> Kind of a lousy way to end a nice Saturday drive in sunny L.A.
> Fortunately I was only a few blocks from home and the tow was
> painless. The nut must have spun off and when I started up the nut or
> the damper hit one blade of the fan which bent 45 degrees and carved a
> nice donut into my radiator core. So, now the question; When I install
> the new one how much torque do I apply and is there anything special I
> need to know before putting it on. The treads on the shaft appear to be
> undamaged. Any help is always appreciated.
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:43:29 EST
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
Moss part number :
262-200 $0.75 CLIP, flexible pipe to front carb.
Rick
San Diego
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:57:22 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 "Flasher Can"
<< The flasher on a BN1 is mounted inside on the cockpit side. The 3 wires go
in through the grommet, and fasten to the flasher.
Rich Chrysler >>
Hi All,
Rich is absolutely correct. The confusion seems to arise from the fact that
many folks over the years have moved it to the engine side of the firewall.
Curt Arndt
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:05:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Name that part contest #2
Ed says:
"er, Rick?
Do you have glasses?? I do. Item 78 is a hose clamp (AKA "clip").
And also, does NOT do the job of supporting the hose from front carb to rear
as seen in the post Ed sent List and Mike (which Moss does not show).
Item # 78 and #81 on the same.
Best...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)"
Regards ("the messenger") Rick
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:20:10 EST
Subject: Conclave 2003 Regalia
http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:24:12 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 "Flasher Can"
Greg
> richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
>
>
> Rich is absolutely correct. The confusion seems to arise from the fact
that
> many folks over the years have moved it to the engine side of the
firewall.
>
> Curt Arndt
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:33:48 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 "Flasher Can"
--Michael
'55 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: BN1 "Flasher Can"
> In a message dated 3/31/03 5:01:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
>
> << The flasher on a BN1 is mounted inside on the cockpit side. The 3 wires
go
> in through the grommet, and fasten to the flasher.
> Rich Chrysler >>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Rich is absolutely correct. The confusion seems to arise from the fact
that
> many folks over the years have moved it to the engine side of the
firewall.
>
> Curt Arndt
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:51:08 EST
Subject: Re: Differential number
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S.H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:04:22 -0700
Subject: HD8 AIR CLEANERS
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:38:37 -0800
Subject: Lost Starting Nut responses
Thanks again.
Ron Fine
61BN7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:02:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: HD8 AIR CLEANERS
I've been using VB's Ramflo foam filters on my BJ8 for
15 years. My engine has 60K miles on it and it has
perfect balanced compression and doesn't burn any oil.
The Ramflo filters are great, and the elements can be
washed, oiled and reused with ease. I've only
replaced the elements once in 15 years of solid use.
They work very well to catch dust & other
contaminants.
On my BN1 I use paper/cotton filters very similar to
the original burgess filters and they work wonders.
The filters aren't cheap but replacing them every 5K
miles is easy and I know the motor is protected.
If I am not mistaken, the metal mesh air cleaners VB
sells have foam elements. If that's the case you
should just go with the ramflos , they work better and
are easier to maintain.
If you want to go with a paper filter... I seem to
recall someone on this list a few months back posted
info on how to put a paper filter on a BJ8....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> It seems to me that the metal mesh air cleaners for
> the HD8 are some what
> inadequate. British Victoria offers a filter for
> HD8's. Has anyone been
> useing them and how do they fit. Do they have an
> effective replaceable
> filter.
> Sid 65 BJ8
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:08:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Texas Cars
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://platinum.yahoo.com
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